This is John’s WASR with Russian wood, bakelite mag, and SRVV sling. He’s using one of our STK grips that is colored Romanian Brown.
How to Moisturize a Horn Handle on a Khukuri
I regularly am asked about how to moisturize or condition a horn handle. This is important because if horn shrinks then it will likely split because it can’t shrink uniformly due to all the glue, different moisture levels, etc. With that said, there is a very easy fix. You can use hoof conditioner for horses to impart oils back into the horn. I gently warm the horn slightly and the conditioner and then rub it into the horn by hand. It’s important to use a bare hand so the warmth of your body is helping keep everything liquid. I will work the conditioner in for about 5-10 minutes and then let it sit until it looks dry and depending on the temperature that might be 10-15 minutes or even just when I get back around to it.
I then repeat the above 2-4 times depending on how fast the conditioner is being absorbed. I then buff the horn with a cloth handle and let it sit. That’s it – mission accomplished.
I would recommend to khukuri owners to do this a couple of times per year if possible – especially in the fall and spring when the temperatures and humidity are changing.
I like Hooflex but just about any will do. This may just be a personal preference but I was told to use thicker conditioners years ago vs.
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The Best M4/AR Collapsible Stock Review I have Read – Maybe My F93 Isn’t Quite Up To Snuff
As you may well know, I am more of an AK guy than an AR guy but I must admit that I really like collapsible stocks. A few years back when I built my personal M92, I opted to use a Yugo M72 rear trunnion an Ace modular adapter and their M4 stock adapter so that I could use a collapsible stock.
I liked the Ergo F93 because I had seen it back when Magpul owned it and bought it on sale. Now, I have to admit that I bought the stock and really liked the feel. I never did a drop test and it never occurred to me to do a drop test. I have never done any real stress testing of it in terms of carbine courses, etc. — mainly a lot of range sessions and never a problem … until someone told me about a test done on the F93.
In reading this review, the F39 broke on the first drop – according to the author, even Ergo knows they need to overhaul the design to reinforce the latch mechanism.
I’m very happy with my Magpul AR stocks and will continue to use the ACS, CTR, and PRS stocks.
So, with no further a do, check out this cool stock review:
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More Info on IMI Galil Rifles
I’ve always found the IMI Galil rifles one of the more interesting variations of the Kalashnikov AK design. I thought you might find the following links of interest if you want to learn more:
IMI Galil Page on Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IMI_Galil
IMI Galil Assault Rifle (Israel) – On World Guns
http://world.guns.ru/assault/isr/galil-e.html
IMI Galil ARM / SAR Assault Rifle / Carbine / Submachine Gun / Designated Marksman Rifle
http://www.militaryfactory.com/smallarms/detail.asp?smallarms_id=23
The following video is very informative. It shows the rifle being made at IMI, interviews designers and talks about some of the unique features:
AK with Galil Furniture including our Custom Galil Grip for AKs
This is an AK that has been outfit with Galil furniture. The grip is from us and is based on an actual IMI Galil grip but we filled in the selector notch on the left side plus we trimmed the extended tab on the nose.
Anders’ Rifle With Our Dark US Plum First Generation Molot Grip
Anders’ Rifle With Our Dark US Plum First Generation Molot Grip.
He tells me that he really likes the UBR stock. I’m going to have to try one some time.
Tharin’s Rifle – KVar US Plum Furniture and Our Dark US Plum Polish AKM/Tantal Grip
Tharin’s Sweet rifle – it has K-Var US Plum Furniture and Our Dark US Plum Polish AKM/Tantal Grip.
Our Dark US Plum color is the one that comes closest to the K-Var color by the way.
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Use An Air Riveter to Get Barrel Pins Out Fast
One of the things that used to drive me nuts with AK builds was driving out barrel pins and then I got a tip from Gunplumber – a variable trigger air hammer or air riveter makes it way easier. Many cheap import air hammers have an air valve behind the trigger that is either on or off and not much in between. Some guys call the variable valve triggers “tickle triggers” – why? I have no idea. At any rate, every air riveter, which looks like an air hammer, that I have seen has a tickle trigger to allow the user more control when setting rivets.
I use the pointed conical air chisel to start the rivet and that is the hard part. Once you get it moving, then use a big hammer and the largest punch you can fit in the hole to drive the rivet the rest of the way out. Note, I only do this when demilling. I use a barrel pin jig to install barrel pins because you have so much more control.
The following photo is of an ATS brand Pro Series 3X riveter. The bigger the number, the more poweful the riveter. I also have a big 4X equivalent Ingersol Rand that I use on large rivets or work needing a powerful tool. The 3X has a nice combination of power and weight and it almost always works on barrel pins and certainly on small trigger guard AK rivets.
You can find rivet guns from many suppliers – even Harbor Freight. I’d recommend you get a 3X for most work and a 4X if you want even more options.
The following is the riveter shown above:
When the conical chisel gets beat up, I grind the tip down and when it is really fried, I just pull out another. I would recommend going with a good brand name. For example, Ingersoll Rand, Chicago Pneumatic, etc.
The big 4x equivalent air hammer I use is the IR 117K standard duty model and it hits hard:
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