Category Archives: Blades and Edged Weapons Including Khukuris

Blades and Edged Weapons Including Khukuris

Magpul Magazine Innovations: PMAG, AMAG, and TMAG Analysis

Executive Summary

This report delivers a technical and market analysis of the primary magazine product lines manufactured by Magpul Industries: the PMAG (Polymer Magazine), AMAG (Alloy Magazine), and TMAG (Translucent Magazine). Evaluated from the perspective of small arms engineering and industry analysis, this document breaks down the material sciences, mechanical reliability, durability, and customer sentiment surrounding each platform.

The analysis indicates that the PMAG series remains a baseline for military and civilian STANAG 4179 magazine reliability. Driven by continuous generation improvements from the Gen M2 to the Gen M3, the PMAG utilizes a proprietary glass-reinforced polymer and constant-curve internal geometry to mitigate feed-related malfunctions. Military testing, specifically the Aberdeen Proving Ground evaluations involving the high-pressure M855A1 Enhanced Performance Round, validated the PMAG Gen M3 as functionally sound compared to standard-issue aluminum USGI magazines, particularly in preventing feed ramp degradation.

The AMAG line represents a strategic expansion into the metallic magazine market, specifically targeting the SIG Sauer P320 and P365 modular platforms. Engineered from heat-treated stainless steel, the AMAG navigates the strict dimensional constraints of micro-compact pistol grips. While structural quality and pricing compete directly against Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) options, social media sentiment and field reports indicate specific tolerance stacking constraints. Notably, the 17-round AMAG variants have exhibited failures to engage the slide lock on empty when paired with aftermarket frames due to a slightly narrowed polymer follower.

The TMAG series introduces a translucent olive drab polymer to the 5.56x45mm STANAG market. It ports the internal geometry of the PMAG Gen M3 into a transparent body, allowing operators to visually confirm ammunition count and type. While the TMAG fulfills its functional requirements, market sentiment reflects minor concerns regarding the tactile feel and long-term durability of the translucent polymer compared to the traditional opaque PMAG material, with isolated reports of cracking in certain piston-driven rifle platforms. This report synthesizes technical specifications with real-world user feedback to provide a factual comparison of these three product lines, concluding with current pricing metrics and active market availability.

1. Market Context and Introduction to Magpul Architectures

Magpul Industries has influenced the small arms accessory market over the past two decades by pivoting the industry standard away from stamped aluminum and steel magazines toward advanced polymers1. The core engineering philosophy relies on mission-driven requirements, ensuring that material selection and geometric design are dictated strictly by functional necessity rather than legacy manufacturing habits4.

Historically, the standard USGI aluminum magazine for the M16 and M4 platforms suffered from specific mechanical vulnerabilities. The straight-body-to-curve transition caused binding, the aluminum feed lips were prone to permanent deformation upon impact, and standard followers were susceptible to tilt, leading to bolt-over-base malfunctions1. Magpul addressed these engineering constraints with the introduction of the PMAG in 2007, establishing a modern baseline for polymer magazine reliability5.

As firearm platforms have evolved, Magpul’s product catalog has diversified. The expansion into the AMAG (alloy) and TMAG (translucent polymer) lines demonstrates an engineering response to different physical and operational requirements7. Pistol platforms such as the SIG Sauer P365 require exceptionally thin magazine walls to maximize capacity within a micro-compact footprint, necessitating a return to steel9. Conversely, military and law enforcement operators frequently request visual ammunition tracking without sacrificing structural geometry, driving the development of the TMAG11.

2. The PMAG Series: Polymer Evolution and Military Standardization

The PMAG is a primary product of Magpul Industries. Currently in its third generation, referred to as the Gen M3, the PMAG is a 5.56x45mm NATO and .223 Remington STANAG-compatible magazine that serves as a standard ammunition feeding device for multiple branches of the United States Armed Forces, including the Marine Corps and the Air Force, as well as United States Special Operations Command13.

2.1 Material Science and Structural Engineering

The PMAG is constructed from an impact-resistant and crush-resistant polymer14. While the exact chemical composition remains proprietary, it belongs to a family of reinforced nylons designed to offer a distinct mechanical advantage over traditional stamped aluminum2. When aluminum feed lips sustain a drop, they tend to bend and permanently deform. This deformation alters the presentation angle of the cartridge, leading to catastrophic feeding failures15.

In contrast, the PMAG’s polymer exhibits highly tuned elastic deformation properties. Upon impact, the feed lips will either flex and return to their original specified dimensions or fracture entirely. This binary failure mode is preferred in professional settings, as a broken magazine is immediately discarded, whereas a subtly bent metal magazine might be retained in the supply chain and cause a malfunction1.

The material maintains structural integrity in extreme temperature variations. It prevents brittleness in sub-zero conditions and resists warping under prolonged exposure to intense heat and ultraviolet radiation14. A dust cover is included with standard models to protect the feed lips from debris and mitigate impact shock during transport. Magpul clarifies that the dust cover is not required to prevent feed lip creep, as the polymer formulation itself does not warp when stored fully loaded for long periods5.

2.2 Generational Refinements: Gen M2 vs. Gen M3

The transition from the Gen M2 MOE line to the Gen M3 line introduced critical geometric and material upgrades. The Gen M2 established a reputation for toughness and remains widely available at a lower price point, but it was optimized strictly for Colt-spec AR-15 and M4 magazine wells5.

The original STANAG 4179 draft agreement dictated that 5.56mm rifles should accept the AR-15 magazine pattern, but it did not standardize the internal dimensions of the weapon’s magazine well. Consequently, the Gen M2 PMAG experienced fitment issues in platforms like the HK416, the USMC M27 Infantry Automatic Rifle (IAR), the FN SCAR-16, and the British SA-80 due to an early onset of the magazine’s physical curvature5. Magpul consolidated necessary design improvements into the PMAG Gen M35.

Feature ComparisonPMAG Gen M2 MOEPMAG Gen M3
Material BaseStandard impact-resistant polymerNext-generation impact/crush-resistant polymer
Platform CompatibilityColt-spec AR-15, M4AR-15, HK416, M27 IAR, FN SCAR, SA-80
Over-Travel StopNoneIntegrated spine stop to prevent over-insertion
Floorplate DesignStandard widthSlimline flared base for tight pouch compatibility
IdentificationNonePaint-pen dot matrix on bottom panel
Follower DesignAnti-tilt, self-lubricatingAdvanced four-way anti-tilt, self-lubricating

The Gen M3 also features a redesigned bolt catch notch in the rear of the magazine to provide increased clearance, ensuring reliable bolt lock-back across varied weapon tolerances20. This STANAG-compliant modularity allows the PMAG to function across countless modern platforms, including bullpup rifles like the Springfield Armory Hellion22.

2.3 Caliber-Specific Geometries

The .300 AAC Blackout (300 BLK) cartridge presents a specific engineering challenge. Because 300 BLK projectiles are heavier and feature different ogive profiles than 5.56mm projectiles, they can interface poorly with the internal guide ribs of a standard 5.56mm magazine, creating friction and feeding stoppages23. The PMAG 30 AR 300 B Gen M3 features optimized internal ribbing to accommodate the 300 BLK cartridge properly. To mitigate the danger of cross-loading a 300 BLK cartridge into a 5.56mm chamber, the 300 BLK PMAG is engineered with distinct external ribbing and a smoother upper texture, providing immediate tactile and visual differentiation23.

Magpul also produces PMAG variants for the 7.62x51mm NATO (.308 Winchester) utilized in SR25 and M110 pattern rifles2. Furthermore, the AK and AKM platforms are supported by dedicated 7.62x39mm and 5.45x39mm PMAGs. The AK variants require different lockup mechanics than AR-15s, leading Magpul to integrate steel locking lugs into the polymer body of their AK PMAGs to ensure a long-lasting interface with the steel magazine catch2. It is worth noting that while they serve as a common aftermarket option, tight magazine well tolerances in some domestic AK platforms like the PSA GF5 can cause the standard PMAG to fail to lock into the receiver27.

2.4 Military Evaluation: The M855A1 Aberdeen Proving Ground Trials

The performance of the PMAG Gen M3 was quantified during the U.S. Army Aberdeen Test Center’s 2015 evaluation titled “Final Report for the M855A1 Conformance Testing on Commercial Magazines”6.

The U.S. Army’s adoption of the M855A1 Enhanced Performance Round introduced unforeseen mechanical strain on the M4 carbine. The M855A1 operates at a higher chamber pressure (approximately 62,000 PSI) and features an exposed, hardened steel penetrator tip17. When feeding from standard aluminum USGI magazines, the angle of presentation caused the sharp steel penetrator to strike the aluminum feed ramps of the M4 receiver before entering the chamber, resulting in gouging and erosion of the feed ramps17.

During the Aberdeen trials, ten commercial magazines and two government magazines were evaluated. Magpul, designated as “Vendor Foxtrot” in the unclassified summaries, submitted the PMAG Gen M328. The testing data indicated that the PMAG achieved a zero-malfunction rate. The PMAG Gen M3 features a specifically engineered feed lip geometry that presents the nose of the M855A1 cartridge at a higher angle, allowing the steel penetrator to clear the aluminum feed ramps and neutralizing the weapon degradation issue28.

Despite these results, the U.S. Army proceeded with fielding its own Enhanced Performance Magazine (EPM), which later demonstrated high failure rates in United States Marine Corps testing13. Conversely, the Air Force, Marine Corps, and Special Operations Command relied directly on the Aberdeen data to authorize and standardize the PMAG Gen M3 across their formations13.

2.5 Social Media Sentiment and Consumer Feedback Analysis

Sentiment analysis derived from major retailers and social media platforms indicates that the PMAG Gen M3 is considered a reliable standard for AR-15 pattern rifles. Across vendor sites, the PMAG consistently maintains ratings between 4.8 and 5.0 out of 5 stars20.

Data aggregated from Brownells customer reviews highlights specific performance metrics for the PMAG Gen M3:

Review CategoryPositive Sentiment RatingKey Themes Mentioned in Customer Feedback
Product Quality85%Reliable construction; smooth feeding dynamics.
Durability75%Resistance to damage from drops, crushing, and environmental factors.
Pricing and Value70%High perceived value; competitive pricing justifies bulk purchases.
Shipping/Service68%Fast fulfillment from vendors enhances overall satisfaction.
Fit and Compatibility20%Generally praised, though isolated reports note tightness in non-standard billet lowers.

Data sourced from aggregated user reviews16.

Negative sentiment is statistically low. Minor critiques generally revolve around isolated compatibility friction with non-standard commercial lower receivers that deviate from mil-spec tolerances16. For the 300 BLK variants, consumers report a 78% positive sentiment specifically regarding feeding reliability, noting that the dedicated magazine resolves the stoppages commonly experienced when attempting to force heavy subsonic 300 BLK ammunition through standard 5.56mm magazines23.

3. The AMAG Series: Alloy Integration and Micro-Compact Constraints

The AMAG (Alloy Magazine) marks the company’s entry into the metallic pistol magazine market. The AMAG line currently focuses on supporting the SIG Sauer P320 (M17/M18) and the micro-compact SIG Sauer P365 platforms8.

3.1 Mechanical Necessity of Stainless Steel in SIG Platforms

The dimensional realities of modern concealed carry handguns dictate material selection. To achieve capacities of 10, 12, 15, or 17 rounds of 9x19mm ammunition in the confined space of a micro-compact frame, the walls of the magazine must be exceptionally thin37. As Magpul expanded beyond their polymer roots, they recognized that the P365 requires a steel body to maximize internal volume for the tapered 9mm stack; polymer cannot be molded thin enough to fit inside the P365 magazine well while retaining sufficient structural integrity3.

Consequently, Magpul engineered the AMAG series using a heat-treated, corrosion-resistant stainless steel alloy10. The stainless steel provides the necessary tensile strength to maximize internal volume while resisting the friction and wear associated with rapid insertion and extraction8.

3.2 Sub-Component Engineering and Capacity Metrics

While the body is metallic, Magpul integrated their polymer expertise into the subcomponents. The AMAG features a high-visibility, controlled-tilt polymer follower and a flared polymer floorplate10. The floorplate is designed for tool-less removal to facilitate routine cleaning. The spine of the magazine includes numbered witness holes starting at five rounds, increasing in one-round intervals to allow for immediate visual capacity checks35.

The AMAG line supports varied capacities depending on the target frame. For the P320 platform, 15-round, 17-round, and 21-round variants are offered8. For the P365 platform, capacities range from 10-round compliant models to 12-round, 15-round, and 17-round configurations37. Included grip extensions on the P365 models provide compatibility with Macro, X/XL, and standard Micro frames, allowing users to tailor the grip length to their specific configuration37.

3.3 Tolerance Stacking and Aftermarket Incompatibility Analysis

From a static engineering perspective, the AMAG is built to rigid specifications. However, dynamic field testing has revealed specific tolerance stacking issues, particularly regarding the 17-round variant designed for the SIG P365.

A prominent trend in social media sentiment highlights a functional deviation when the AMAG is paired with aftermarket Fire Control Unit (FCU) housings44. Users operating the Flux Defense Raider or Flux 365 chassis systems have reported that the Magpul AMAG 17-round magazine fails to engage the slide lock lever on the last round45. Technical analysis shared within these communities reveals that the AMAG magazine body is dimensionally narrower than the SIG Sauer OEM magazine by a fraction of a millimeter. Because the body is narrower, the internal polymer follower is also correspondingly narrower45. When installed in standard OEM SIG grip modules, the tolerance is tight enough that the follower still catches the internal slide stop tab. However, aftermarket chassis systems like the Flux Defense push the magazine presentation slightly off center by approximately 1 millimeter. This shift causes the narrowed Magpul follower to bypass the slide stop tab inside the FCU, resulting in a failure to lock back on an empty chamber45.

3.4 Social Media Sentiment and Loading Mechanics

Despite the documented tolerance issues with aftermarket chassis systems, general sentiment for the AMAG among standard SIG Sauer users is positive, largely driven by pricing strategy. Magpul introduced the AMAG as a market disruptor against premium OEM pricing at an MSRP of $34.95 for the 17-round variant3.

For the average consumer utilizing a stock SIG P320 or P365, the AMAG provides a reliable alternative to factory magazines. Reviewers praise the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel, contrasting it with complaints of OEM SIG magazines developing rust from daily concealed carry exposure, noting that the AMAG provides superior rust resistance46.

Community feedback indicates that loading the AMAG to its maximum capacity, particularly the 17th round in the P365 variant, requires notable physical force. Users report needing mechanical speed loaders (such as the Maglula UpLULA) to seat the final round, suggesting that the internal spring tension or follower compression height is engineered to the maximum tolerance limit of the steel tube47.

4. The TMAG Series: Translucent Polymer and Visual Utility

The TMAG (Translucent Magazine) is Magpul’s response to a military and civilian request for a reliable, transparent magazine that allows the operator to instantly verify both the remaining round count and the specific type of ammunition loaded7. Following the release of the 30-round variant, Magpul officially launched a compact TMAG 20 variant at SHOT Show 2026, catering to shooters who need a lower profile for bench or prone shooting49.

4.1 The Engineering Challenges of Translucent Polymers

Designing a transparent magazine presents complex chemical and structural challenges. Opaque magazines, such as the standard PMAG, utilize carbon black and long glass fibers mixed into the nylon substrate15. These additives provide high impact resistance, crush strength, and protection against ultraviolet (UV) degradation. Translucent polymers, by their chemical nature, cannot contain these opaque strengthening agents.

Magpul engineered the TMAG using a specialized translucent polymer blended with an olive drab (OD Green / Smoke) hue11. This tinting mitigates the effects of UV degradation that clear plastics typically suffer from, and it maintains a tactical, low-visibility aesthetic suitable for field environments11.

4.2 Internal Geometry and Mechanical Integration

The TMAG directly inherits the internal geometry of the PMAG Gen M311. It utilizes a constant-curve internal channel, a four-way anti-tilt follower, and a USGI-spec stainless steel spring. To maximize the utility of the transparent body, Magpul implemented a painted spring coil. This painted section acts as a highly visible indicator line against the molded capacity markings on the magazine body11.

Externally, the TMAG differs slightly from the PMAG. While it retains the low-profile floorplate and the paint-pen dot matrix for baseplate marking, the sides of the TMAG are left smooth to maximize viewing clarity11. To compensate for the loss of side texturing, Magpul ribbed the front and rear straps of the magazine to ensure a positive grip during reloads11.

4.3 Social Media Sentiment, Tactile Perception, and Reliability Concerns

Customer sentiment regarding the TMAG is generally positive, but with notable caveats regarding tactile perception and durability. The primary praise directed at the TMAG is its functional visibility. Users value the ability to see the exact round count and cartridge type11.

A recurring theme in user reviews is the physical feel of the magazine. Due to the chemical nature of the translucent polymer, some users report that the TMAG feels slicker, lighter, and subjectively less robust than the standard PMAG11. Data aggregated from Brownells customer reviews highlights these mixed perceptions, with 55% positive sentiment regarding build quality, driven by complaints that the translucent material feels inferior to the opaque line11.

Furthermore, isolated user reports have documented stress cracking on TMAG bodies when operated in certain piston-driven platforms, such as the SCAR 1651. Engineering physics dictates that translucent feed lips will be marginally more susceptible to creep or impact cracking in extreme temperatures compared to a glass-filled black PMAG51. For duty use, many operators continue to default to the standard opaque PMAG.

5. Comparative Analysis: Quality, Reliability, and Durability

To properly evaluate these three distinct platforms, they must be compared across the core metrics of quality, reliability, and durability.

5.1 Quality and Manufacturing Tolerances

All three lines exhibit strict manufacturing standards. The PMAG represents a high standard of polymer injection molding, with consistent texturing and a mature feature set (dust covers, dot matrix, over-travel stops)15. The AMAG demonstrates precision metal stamping and laser welding, yielding a seamless stainless steel body39. The TMAG showcases advanced polymer flow mechanics, achieving clarity without introducing structural bubbles or severe molding artifacts11.

5.2 Mechanical Reliability Under Stress

Reliability is defined as the ability to successfully feed a cartridge into the chamber under dynamic firing conditions. The PMAG’s performance in the Aberdeen M855A1 tests proved it highly reliable across multiple weapon platforms, actively preventing weapon wear28. The TMAG inherits this exact internal geometry and matches the PMAG’s baseline feeding reliability under standard conditions, though isolated reports indicate a slightly higher failure rate than the PMAG11. The AMAG is reliable in stock SIG configurations but is intolerant to aftermarket dimensional shifts, specifically the slide lock bypass issue observed in Flux Defense chassis systems45.

5.3 Material Durability and Environmental Resistance

Durability is the capacity to withstand physical abuse, environmental degradation, and long-term mechanical stress.

  • PMAG: Demonstrates maximum durability. The glass-filled polymer absorbs impacts, resists harsh solvents, and resists UV degradation15.
  • AMAG: Demonstrates high durability. Stainless steel provides crush resistance and resists corrosion better than standard OEM magazines8.
  • TMAG: Demonstrates moderate durability. While strong enough for standard use, translucent polymers represent a physical compromise, making them inherently less resistant to severe impacts and chemical exposure than their opaque counterparts11.

6. Pricing and Availability

This section details the current pricing and market availability of the PMAG, AMAG, and TMAG lines.

Vendor Search and Active Listings

The following active product listings reflect pricing at or below the determined average market rate.

Determined Average Market Rates:

  • PMAG 30 AR/M4 GEN M3: $14.20
  • AMAG 17 SG9 (SIG P320/P365): $34.00
  • TMAG 30 AR/M4 GEN M3: $22.75

PMAG 30 AR/M4 GEN M3 (5.56x45mm)

AMAG 17 SG9 (SIG P365 / P320)

TMAG 30 AR/M4 GEN M3 (5.56x45mm)

7. Conclusion and Master Summary Table

Magpul Industries heavily influences the small arms magazine market through calculated material engineering. The PMAG Gen M3 remains a structural standard, effectively neutralizing weapon degradation issues caused by modern high-pressure military ammunition while maintaining a proven reliability record28. The AMAG proves that Magpul can pivot to precision steel manufacturing to satisfy the physical constraints of the modern micro-compact pistol market, delivering financial value, albeit with slight tolerance constraints in heavily modified aftermarket chassis systems8. Finally, the TMAG bridges the gap between tactical utility and polymer science, offering a transparent visual indicator without sacrificing the internal geometric foundations established by the PMAG line, though it faces consumer skepticism regarding long-term duty durability11.

Master Summary Table

MetricPMAG Gen M3AMAG (SG9 Series)TMAG Gen M3
Primary MaterialGlass-reinforced proprietary polymerHeat-treated stainless steel alloyTranslucent OD Green polymer
Primary Platform TargetAR15, M4, HK416, SCAR 16SIG Sauer P320, P365AR15, M4, STANAG 4179
Durability AssessmentHigh (Impact, chemical, and UV resistant)High (Crush resistant and highly corrosion-resistant)Moderate (Slightly less impact resistance than standard PMAG)
Reliability AssessmentHigh (Zero-malfunction rate in Army testing)High in OEM frames (Slide-lock issue in aftermarket chassis)High (Inherits PMAG internal geometry, some user skepticism)
Customer SentimentHighly positive; considered the industry standardPositive on price/value; minor concerns on spring loading stiffnessPositive on visual utility; minor concerns on tactile perception
Key Engineering FeatureAltered feed angle to protect aluminum weapon feed rampsMaximized internal volume via thin stainless steel wallsVisual ammo counting via painted coil spring and clear body
Average Street Price~$13.50~$34.00~$22.75

Note: Vendor Sources listed are not an endorsement of any given vendor. It is our software reporting a product page given the direction to list products that are between the minimum and average sales price when last scanned.


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  42. Magpul Handgun Magazine – GrabAGun, https://grabagun.com/shop/magpul-handgun-magazine.html
  43. Magpul AMAG 9mm 15rd Mag Fits SIG P365 – Magazine – Primary Arms, https://www.primaryarms.com/magpul-amag-9mm-15rd-mag-fits-sig-p365-magazine
  44. Pro tip, Magpul AMAG 17 for the P365 has issues with some frame/slide combinations, https://www.reddit.com/r/P365/comments/1pg5ill/pro_tip_magpul_amag_17_for_the_p365_has_issues/
  45. Magpul AMAG 17rd are incompatible with both Flux 365 frames : r/FluxDefense – Reddit, https://www.reddit.com/r/FluxDefense/comments/1pgajkd/magpul_amag_17rd_are_incompatible_with_both_flux/
  46. Sig’s response to my XMacro mags starting to rust before even a year of ownership. – Reddit, https://www.reddit.com/r/SigSauer/comments/1q0qdv8/sigs_response_to_my_xmacro_mags_starting_to_rust/
  47. [Magazines] Magpul AMAG 17 SG9 for SIG P320/M17 – $26.04 @ Lanbo’s Armory – Reddit, https://www.reddit.com/r/gundeals/comments/1agvpzk/magazines_magpul_amag_17_sg9_for_sig_p320m17_2604/
  48. Magpul AMAG : r/SigSauer – Reddit, https://www.reddit.com/r/SigSauer/comments/19c5dws/magpul_amag/
  49. SHOT Show 2026: New Product Announcements on January 20, 2026 – Ronin’s Grips, https://blog.roninsgrips.com/shot-show-2026-january-20-2026-product-announcements/
  50. Magpul TMAG Translucent OD Green 5.56 30-Rounds, https://grabagun.com/magpul-tmag-translucent-od-green-5-56-30-rounds.html
  51. Magpul TMAG Gen3 AR-15 / M4 .223 / 5.56 30-Round Magazine – GunMag Warehouse, https://gunmagwarehouse.com/magpul-tmag-gen3-ar-15-m4-223-5-56-30-round-magazine.html
  52. Magpul TMAG 30 Translucent 30-Round Magazine – kygunco, https://www.kygunco.com/product/magpul-tmag-30-ar-m4-gen-m3
  53. PMAG® 30 AR/M4 GEN M3™ Window – Magpul, https://magpul.com/pmag-30-ar-m4-gen-m3-window.html

A Fantastic Deal on an 8″ OTF Knife From GLFA

My friend Scott Igert owns Michigan Gun Exchange and recently got in a bunch of out the front (OTF) automatic knives from Great Lakes Firearms and Ammunition (GLFA). This caught my attention for a couple of reasons – 1) I had never heard of GLFA. 2) The knives looked and felt decent 3) The 8″ model was only $45 at the time when Scott was introducing the model line. Well, I had to buy one right then and there to study it. At least, that would be my cover story if my wife asked.

Who is GLFA?

According to their “About Us” page – Great Lakes Firearms and Ammunition is located in Sparta, MI, and is a family owned business. They started in firearms retail in 2013 but noticed an opportunity for affordable AR rifles and started manufacturing. They now have over 30 CNC machines, do their own Cerakoting and are steadily expanding. They do not have any knife listings on their site – in general, their site is pretty light on products and details.

I’ll be honest, I did some reading on their ARs and they have mixed reviews. Some guys love their rifles and others don’t so I really can’t speak to them. The focus of this post is about the OTF knife I bought from Scott.

Opening The Box

At home, I took a hard look at the knife. It came in a box with a white label on it with a cheap sheath. It was pretty bare bones which immediately made me think it was made by somebody else – probably in China given the price point. I couldn’t think of any firms in the US being able to wholesale an OTF knife for under $45 (you can see the sticker on the box – that was what Scott was selling it for at the time).

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
The knife came in a bare bones package. The while label is pretty much a giveaway that another firm was the OEM.

I’m make my only real negative comment up front. It comes with a really cheap belt sheath that I would recommend replacing if you want a sheath. The stitching is light and I have zero faith in the velcro belt loop on the back.

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
I wouldn’t trust the velcro belt/equipment loop. I guess they felt they needed to include one but I would replace the sheath vs. ever use it *if* I wanted to carry the knife in a sheath.

Honestly, at the price point this sells at, this is the only thing I am going to ding them on and it’s not a big deal to get a good sheath. I’d rather they invested in the knife anyways.

The GLFA OTF Knife Itself

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
It’s just over 8″ open. It’s almost 8.5″ when you include the glass-breaker stud on the pommel. “GLFA” was engraved in the notched area on the handle below the thumb switch.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
It comes with a decent belt clip that is secured by the glass breaker. It also serves to keep the halves together should the screws come loose.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
The blade looks the same on both sides. You can see the grinding or milling “lines” on the blade. These are common on many knives and is an observation. Note the distinctively shaped lightening holes at the top. I think they are decorative but may have also been done to reduce mass.

Let’s Disassemble the Knife

To open up the knife, find a nice clear flat work area. The green work matt keeps small parts from rolling or bouncing away – it’s not just a decorative background. I’ve done my fair share of searching for small parts so I try to take some precautions now. Also, take lots of photos to remember how things go back together 🙂

By the way, you may need to do this some day if your knife gets dirty and will not cycle. You’ll need to open and clean it.

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Opening it will require a #7 Torx bit to remove the handle screws. I have a Strebito precision screwdriver set that I use on electronics … and small knifes. You can find it on Amazon.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
I removed the screws and then realized I needed to remove the glass breaker tip. I’d recommend you remove the tip first and then the screws. I just put my screwdrive in one of the holes and turned counterclockwise to remove it.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Lift the thin side where the screws were at off the thick part where the mechanism is. At this point, my moving things around ccased the spring clip on the left to slide up and snap back. Normally, it is all the was forward over that rectangular piece called the “lock actuator”
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
So the spring assemly is in the top middle. It’s sitting on the lock actuator. Under the top left of the actuator is the open lock and to the lower right is the closed lock. The locks look like small tabs seated in the handle.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Below the handle is the lock actuator. You can now see the two locks that remain in the handle. The blade could be slid out the end if so desired. By the way, my best guess is the handle is some zinc-aluminum alloy given the weight and color. Note, all of the maching is decent – even inside.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Here’s the blade – it just slides out. By the way, that funny looking piece of metal above it is the thumb stud/trigger. It’s upside down.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
That little spring is what does the magic. Note the small tab is to the left and the longer one is to the right. They get stretched from the front to the end of the lock actuator. Given the size of the spring, you now also know why the blade needs to be clean and it doesn’t take much force to stop the forward momentum of the blade. I literally stopped the blade with a piece of 8.5×11″ 20 pound typing paper. The tip went through about an inch before it stopped. In this stalled state, the blade is “sprung”. You need to either pull it all the way forward to recock the spring or snap your wrist like a gravity knife to get it out and recock the spring.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
I’d like to meet who figured out the combination of spring, locks and actuator. The formal name is the “machined lock actuator” and it has surfaces to depress the lock at one end or the other so the blade can spring forward or backward. It’s simple when you look at it but the person who first thought it up was pretty smart!!

To Re-Assemble

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Stretch the spring from left with the short tab to the right end of the lock actuator witht he longest tab. Both tabs are face down. Yes, it takes a surprising amount of force to stretch that spring. Note the blade is in the handle and half way but not at one end or the other. You want it out of the way of the spring tabs or they will just pop up if they hit the stud on the blade.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
So with the blade part way in, lay the actuator down on top. You then put the thumb switch back on the exposed vertical tab of the slide lock actuator.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Finally, put the other half of the handle on, reinstall the screws so they are snug and then the belt clip and glass breaker. Done. I definitely recommend the Strebito set if you need small screw driver bits.

As mentioned above, the blade will be sprung. You will need to either pull the blade out to recock the spring or flick it down like a gravity knife. I did the latter out of habit to recock the spring and then everything worked fine.

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
Here it is by a ruler for scale.

Note, a knife like this needs to break in / wear in as parts get smoother with use. If you need to lubricate it, use a dry lube and not oil. For example, Dupont’s Dry Film Lubricant spray.

Who made the knife?

Whomever built this knew what they were doing and had masws production capabilities to drive the price down. From my perspective, there was no way GLFA could produce a decent OTF knife like this, at such a low price point and still have time to make their rifles. Clearly they were OEM’ing them from someone. As mentioned earlier, I was almost certain it was a Chinese company.

I did some digging based on the four relatively unique design elements that I figured would be rare to see combined – the shape of the handle, profile of the blade, the distinctive successively larger lightening holes in the blade and the glass breaker tip.

I used Google Images and some industry trade sites I know of and narrowed it down to the most likely candidate who does OEM knife work including OTF knives: Yangjiang Honglin Industrial Co., Ltd of Guangdong, China. They claim to have been in business for more than 10 years, have over 20,000 square meters of manufacturing, over 10 production lines and several Chinese quality certifications. They can build a knifefrom the point of raw materials to finished goods.

Could I be wrong about the manufacturer? Yes, but nobody else had all of those design elements present in the photos of sample products I saw.

So, they are a legit knife maker and that then makes my best guess that the knife steel is the Chinese 8CR13MOV which is a perfect decent/average stainless alloy. The average hardness of 8CR13MOV is 58-60 HRC but that’s an industry average and no guarantee of what the Chinese company actually did.

In short, they did a decent job designing and building the knife. I doubt they used junk steel and it’s what you’d find in many sub $40 retail Chinese import blades from Kershaw and others.

By the way, this is not a negative post about GLFA. I was curious as to who made this. Finding and importing quality products takes effort and money.

Summary

For the price, you can’t beat the GLFA OTF knife. You can afford to buy one, use it, enjoy it and not worry about it getting lost or damaged. Speaking for myself, the more expensive a knife gets, the more inclined I am to baby it than use it. I’ll use this GLFA and not worry about it and I’m saying that in a good way.

If you are interested, you can order this and other models from Scott’s website or visit his Michigan Gun Exchange store in Saint Joseph, MI.

I hope this helps you out.


Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.


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Handmade Knives in Alfonso, Cavite, Philippines

We visited a family member in Alfonso, Cavite, in the Philippines. Her home has a small garden in the back filled with various fruit trees and she insisted we take some fruit with us. Part of what caught my eye was the machete being used. That you can see above.

I turned out that her husband enjoyed making knives before he passed away. He shaped the steel, made the handles and the wood sheaths. I wish I could have taked to him.

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
The handle was about 8″ long and the blade is about 12″ long. This side of the handle still has the ferrule to keep the wood from splitting. The blade does have a sickel shape and the cutting edge was facing me (downwards in this photo). Any steel surface wants to rust in the Philippes. It’s due to humidity and salt in the air.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
On this side, the ferrule is gone. The handle didn’t have a forward taper but he did have a slight bulge at the front to help with gripping the blade and not sliding forward onto the blade.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
The handle had cracked and been glued at some point. The blade thickness is a tad under an 1/8th inch.

That is the knife they use for everyday tasks. When they heard I am interested in knives and used to make them, they brought out two the husband made that they keep indoors.

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
This knife immediately caught my eye.He ahd braided string to make a neck strap when climing trees and the overall color was very nice. It would fully seat in the sheath – I didn’t realize it was partly out when I was snapping photos.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
The handle was about 6″ and he would taper the handle down slightly as he went forward. This knife was in much better shape than the first and you can just see the silver ferrule where the handle transitions to the blade.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
My best guess is that he differentially tempered the blade by first tempering the blade and then pouring hot water on the edge. The greyish discoloring is the telltale sign. It’s not consistent but clearly it has held up over time. The blade shows marks from plenty of sharpening.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
This blade is right arond an 1/8th inch or maybe a tad thicker. The handle had cracked a bit.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
His work on the sheaths was exemplery. He cut the two halves, carved the channel he needed to hold the blade, glued and then clamped them together. I wish I had a good photo of the side – you have to really look for the seam where the two haves come together to find it.

This third knife, I didn’t think we’d get to see it. The blade had rusted into the sheath. My older relative went into her house and came back with it separated. She’d used a small hammer to tap it out – she’s in her 70s and knows how to fix things “old school”. She wanted me to be able to see it.

Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
I’m glad we could see this one, The handle is about 6″ long and the blade is about 8-9″. He had clearly upped his game both in terms of the handle and the sheath. The blade had a bit of a recurve grind also. My guess is that someone else made the ad hoc sling.. Odds are they put it away wet too and it rusted.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
This side of the blade did show some forging marks. I did recommend to the relative to brush off the rust as best she could and apply a little bit of oil to preserve the blade. We weren’t there long enough or I would have done it.
Extech IR thermometer and Ronin's polymer grips for heat testing.
This bade was also about an 1/8th inch thick. Note the slight crack in the handle. The ferrule is still there.

Summary

We were only able to stay for about an hour and really appreciated their sharing the blades with me. I truly wish I could have met their maker but in many respects he lives on with them and his family.



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Filipino Knife Maker On Bohol Island In The Philippines

During a recent trip to the Philippines, we visited the island of Bohol. We happened to drive through the village of Loay and saw a shop by the road with an enormous number of blades of all sizes and shapes for sale so we stopped.

Uzi top cover with markings, part of semi-auto conversion
If you click here, the Google listing will appear in a new tab.

This was the “Bulaklak Blacksmith” shop and at J233+QFH, in Loay. The maker was busy at a grinder and I can only assume it was his wife showing us his wares. Bohol has a booming tourist industry with beautiful beaches and I am sure this stand was trying to capitalize on this. We were visiting at the beginning of September which is when the tourist season is drawing to a close.

He had produced a huge number of machetes and various knifes of all shapes and sizes. We also saw various types of implements such as steel rake heads, steel poles with heavy cutting heads and more.

What struck me was his shop. There he was with very basic equipment – a forge, anvil, hand tools, a stick welder, grinder, and so forth cranking out his wares.

If you are ever on the island of Bohol, the store and shop make for an interesting stop.

Uzi top cover conversion: close-up of internal mechanism with spring and lever
With his finished wares outside facing the road, he was inside cranking out the work. He was grinding the whole time I was there. Note it was 83F with a ton of humidity and there he is on a dirt floor getting work done. Also note the truck leaf springs. The knife makers of Nepal, known as kamis, also get leaf springs to make knives – the alloy works great for them. You can see the poles with cutters on the end – I can guess they are for digging holes or some kind of clearing activity. On the table are various machetes in the works.
Uzi top cover conversion: close-up of internal mechanism with spring and lever
Here’s a better view of the work in process and his furry helper who woke up just long enough to look at me and then went back to sleep. The machetes I saw were averaging about 3-4mm in thickness.
Uzi top cover conversion: close-up of internal mechanism with spring and lever
This was maybe a fourth of the knives he had done and ready for sale. Handles were either wood or hollow buffalo horn. The scabbards are of a died wood. The ferrule on the handles is actually a tightly braided twine. Noote the steel rake heads.
Uzi top cover conversion: close-up of internal mechanism with spring and lever
Here are some large general purppose knives. The handles are all hollow water buffalo horn.
Uzi top cover conversion: close-up of internal mechanism with spring and lever
Not only was he prolific but there were all kinds of styles from small hunting knives to machetes to swords. Traditional Filipino styles as well as Nepalese kukris and Japanese natas.
Uzi top cover conversion: close-up of internal mechanism with spring and lever
The majority of the knife blades were of a “villager” style without a lot of finishing and polishing work. By the way, I am very fond of villager-style blades as they really have character. In some cases, such as the sword and blades in the top center, he could turn out more refined work.

I didn’t think to ask if he sells any blades for locals. I would have really liked to see them. However, we had a schedule to keep as we were going on to see the Tarsiers and Chocolate Hills so we had to get going.

If you have ever wanted to visit and very affordable tropical resort, we stayed at the Bellevue Resort and it was beatiful. Great staff, facility and food.

Uzi top cover with markings, part of semi-auto conversion
This was the view from our balcony. You can see one wing of the hotel portion on the left and the thatched roof is the restaurant.
Uzi top cover with markings, part of semi-auto conversion
Looking back at the restaurant and our wing of the hotel. Again, great place to stay.

If you find yourself in Bohol, check out the Bulaklak blacksmith’s shop and if you are looking for a resort, check out the Bellevue. By the way, we were visiting family and I don’t have a habit of jetsetting 🙂

I hope this helps you out.



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A Brief History of the Japanese Nata and Three Modern Examples

From 1988 to 1989, I went to school in Kobe, Japan. On weekends I would wander through shopping areas and always looked carefully at the hardware, tool and knife vendor stores. Even then, big chopping blades would catch my eye and I found out they were known as “natas”. They were used much like a Western Hatchet intended for use by one hand to remove small limbs and split wood.

Before I returned home to the states, I picked up a 180cm basic model from a hardware store and it rattled around in my shop for years and years … I guess at this point I am old enough to say decades. The nata itself was very cool but over the years the vinyl covering stretched over a wood core slowly fell apart. Eventually, I decided to refinish the nata and sell it with a Kydex sheath.

Uzi wood stock with prepared holes for permanent attachment.
This is the actual 165mm nata I bought near Kobe. 165mm makes the blade about 6.5″ long. It was a very stout blade.
Uzi wood stock with prepared holes for permanent attachment.
You’ll note the blade is only beveled on one side and this is common with the nata blades.
Uzi wood stock with prepared holes for permanent attachment.
Note it is a rait-tail tang – meaning a short partial tang going into the wood. Westerners often look at a design like this and consider it weak. Asians look at it as allowing some flex and not transferring all of the shock into the hand of the user. Changing an exposed tang like this is no bog deal really.
Uzi wood stock with prepared holes for permanent attachment.
This was it after refinishing and new Kydex sheath just before I sold it.
Uzi wood stock with prepared holes for permanent attachment.
I wish I could say who made the nata for sure. The 165 refers to the length in mm and the kanji (the ideograms) translates laterially as “with steel”. A company named “Kanenori” makes natas and does the same kanji and millimeter size stamping,and the ferrule originally being colored blue. Take all of those and they make Kanenori is my best guess.

The funny thing about time is that you can learn a lot along the way. You also get reminiscent about things in the past – in my case, I missed the nata. I’d gone head first down collecting and refurbishing cleavers, khukuris and and other blades – some of which I kept but I no longer had a nata and decided to correct that. Before we get into the three I bought, let’s look at the history of the nata design.

The History of the Japanese Nata

While the exact origin remains unclear, evidence suggests the nata’s presence as early as 720 AD. The word itself (鉈) appears in historical texts, but physical examples or depictions from that era are scarce. This lack of concrete evidence points to a likely origin deeply rooted in rural communities, where functionality overshadowed the need for artistic documentation.

Throughout Japan’s feudal period (794-1853), travel between regions was often challenging. This isolation fostered the development of regional variations of the nata, each tailored to the specific needs of its locality. Village blacksmiths refined the tool based on local materials and methods that evolved over time.

The Edo period (1603-1867) saw a rise in traveling woodcutters. This new mobility led to the spread of efficient nata designs. The “tomari-nata,” developed in Asahi Town, exemplifies this trend. Its unique, bird-beak-shaped tip facilitated stripping bark and collecting firewood, making it a favorite among woodcutters. The tomari’s popularity exemplifies how regional ingenuity could gain national recognition through practical advantages.

Today, several distinct nata styles persist, each reflecting its historical roots. Modern materials like carbon steel and alloy steel have replaced traditional iron, but the core function remains unchanged. Today, nata are prized for their lightweight design and exceptional edge retention, making them ideal for forestry and land management tasks.

Back to the Main Story

We happened to be visiting the Smokies and stopped by Smoky Mountain Knifeworks (SMKW). We visit about once a year and if you are in the Sevierville, TN, area, SMKW is a “must-visit” store with knives, firearms, tons of cooking stuff, antiques and more – click here for directions on Google Maps. I check out the latest in blades in their huge store room and my wife likes looking at all of the cooking and gift ideas downstairs.

At any rate, we were there when they were having an open house with tons of vendors and it just so happened that a representative of Condor Knife and Tool was there. I really like Condor and it’s been great watching them grow over the years. I told the fellow that I had a bunch of Condor blades and planned on buying two this visit.

Well, he and I talked for a few minutes and a really cool Nata-styled knife caught my eye. It is their “Batonata” designed by Joe Flowers and it’s a cool take on the nata design. One look and you know it’s a nata but with a slightly different shape to the head, burnt American Hickory handle and brass wire wrap to further secure the full tang in the handle.

The blade is 0.20″ thick 1075 high carbon steel. The blade itself is about 10″ and overall it’s just under 17.5″. The weight is just under 2 pounds.

Drill chuck holding a hex screw, preparing to attach Uzi wood stock
You can see the full tang the design uses and the brass rivets and decorative brass wire – it helps secure the wood slabs to the tang and adds a bit of flourish at the same time.
Drill chuck holding a hex screw, preparing to attach Uzi wood stock
The dangler-style sheath is very nicely done out of thick, rich leather. It beats the heck out of the “vinyl fake leather over wood” cheaper Japanese sheaths. Now, if there is a nata-maker our there doing traditional leather over wood, I haven’t seen it. I’m just not a fan of cheap vinyl whatsoever.

I found the Batonata really easy to chop with. This surprised me due the the spine only being 0.20″ thick. The designer, Joe Flowers, compensated for this by giving the Batonata an oversize head thus having more mass up front. If you will recall force = mass x acceleration. The more mass there is then the more energy there is at the same speed of swing. The Batonata gets the extra mass by the raised steel above the axis of the spine. Going thicker to get more mass would also require more energy to cleve the wood out of the way – that’s why really thick blades make lousy machetes for example. Thicker blads tend to push the vines out of the way vs. slicing through them.

So, two thumbs up for the Batonata. Elegant design, well executed, cool sheath. It’s made in El Salvador instead of Japan but it never claimed to be a “Japanese” nata so we’ll let that part slide. Click here for it on Amazon and here are active listings on eBay:

A Traditional Nata – A Kakuri 210mm Nata

Kakuri is a corporation in Sanjo, Japan that was founded in 1946. They have designed and produced cutlery and woodworking and arborist tools for over 70 years and fully understand what a nata is. By the way, click here to open a new tab showing all of the cool woodworking and gardening tools Kakuri has for sale on Amazon.

The nata I chose was a basic “Gikoh” series 210mm (8.27″) nata. With a nata, the length given in mm is the length of the blade. It’s also 405mm (15.94″) overall. The nata itself weighs approximately 1.3 pounds.

Most nata makers will have some high-end offerings with better wood, finishes and sheaths in addition to the basic work models with no frills. Kakuri is the same – though they only have one higher-end model and most are working class tools.

One thing I find interesting is their use of high carbon Japanese Yasuki steel. Yasuki (also sometimes written as Yasugi) is a family of steels used in a variety of cutting tools. Yasuki has a very long history dating back to sword making but now owned and produced by Hitachi Metals.

The handle is made from oak wood and has a clear coat finish on it.

I found the Kakuri nata very easy to swing and it took a good bite out of some old oak I had lying around during testing. The edge held up very nicely despite hitting the dried oak.

Uzi wood stock with prepared holes for permanent attachment.
The 210mm blade had no problem biting into dried oak. You can see the single bevelled cutting edge here.
Japanese nata resting on a wood stump, surrounded by leaves. Text on tool handle reads "Nata, please use carefully.
This side of the blade does not have a bevel.
Japanese nata resting on logs. Wood splitting tool with a wooden handle.
Thanks to the weight and blade design. the nata sinks right into smaller logs for splitting.
Black Kakuri nata knife sheath with visible caution label on a wooden surface.
It comes with a basic vinyle sheath with the material pulled over a wooden core that helps maintain the needed shape.
Black leather sheath for a Japanese Nata, lying on a woodpile.
I was surprised to find two retaining straps – one on the handle and one looping over the back top edge of the blade.
Nata sheath: Interior view of a wooden Japanese nata knife holder.
Here’s a good view of the wood core. On one hand, designs like this make it quick and easy to get the blade into or or out of the sheath. The negative is that it rattles some. Nepalese khukurik sheathes are the same way except they tend to be water buffalo leather stretched over the wood.

The score – two thumbs up for a well executed classic nata. Click here to open a new tab with the various Kakuri Nata listings on Amazon and here are active listings on eBay:

So far, you have seen a nata-inspired design in the Batonata. A classic design from Kakuri and now we need a modernized design from Japan.

The Silky 240mm Double-Edge Nata

When I was searching for a new nata, I really did not expect to run into this modernized nata from Silky. The blade looks like a nata but everything else is modernized – rubber shock absorbing handle (a BIG thank you for those of us with carpal tunnel) and futuristic looking shealth made from aluminum and polymers.

“Who is Silky?” was my very first thought. The name alone did not sound Japanese but that could just be a brand name or something for the export market so I had to look them up.

Silky is the brand name for U.M. Kogyo located in Ono, Hyogo prefecture, Japan. The company was originally named “Tamakitsune” and was founded in 1919 by Mr. Katsuji Miyawaki to make saws. Today, Silky is led by Uichi Miyawaki who continues to stress excellence.

To be sure, their focus is on saws for woodworking and arborists plus they make a few innovating nata models. Their distributor in the US is Vertical Supply Group and they sell the saws on Amazon [click here to open a listing in a new tab].

This nata has a 240mm (9.44″) blade that is 5.7mm (0.22 inches) thick and has an overall length of 340mm (13.35″). The weight is 2.11 pounds.

They say an “alloy steel” is used but don’t get into the details. I did some digging and it is reported as a SKS-51 (JIS) steel. SKS-51 is a cutting tool steel that is tough with good wear resistance. It also has a full length tang that extends almost the full length of the handle but is hidden from sight.

There are three interesting design points that I want to share. First is the “Genki” (that usually translates as health or healthy) rubberized grip. It absorbs the shock instead of your hands – I totally agree on this point. It was the most comfortable nata for me to use. It’s also replaceable without tools.

The second point is the blade finish – it’s an electroless nickel plate that both reduces friction and corrosion. They developed it for their saws to more consistently reduce friction.

The third, is that the nata is user-maintainable. Their suppliers carry replacement handles, blades and quick release clips for the sheath.

Silky Nata tool resting on mossy wood. "Silky" is visible on the handle.
A good photo of the Genki handle. The nata cut into wood beautifully.
Silky Nata tool resting on firewood. Japanese Nata, wood splitting, outdoor equipment.
The unique look to the blade is due to the electroless nickel plating. The nickel reduces friction which means that the blade should penetrate further than an uncoated blade all other things being equal.
Silky Nata Professional double-edged Japanese hatchet with 240mm blade.
The sheath is made out of modern materials.
Uzi wood stock adapter attached to a vise for permanent attachment.
I did not expect to see a robust quick release catch to disconnect the sheath from the belt loop in a hurry. If you look at the photo on the sheath, you can see the Genki handle removed and the full length tang of the blade that is otherwise hidden.
Uzi wood stock adapter attached to a vise for permanent attachment.
A look down the mouth of the sheath. The funnel helps you insert the nata by guiding it into position.

Another two thumbs up. It’s an innovative design and the most comfortable for me to chop with – especially given my carpal tunnel.

You can find Silky Natas on Amazon sometimes (I bought mine there) – so click here to see them. Also, the following active listings are on eBay:

Comparing the Three Natas

It’s not easy to compare them and have a clear winner that everybody will agree with. It comes down to preferences. I’m going to first show you some comparison photos and then tell you my order of preference and why.

Uzi wood stock adapter attached to a vise for permanent attachment.
All three differ – the Silky Nata has a 240mm (9.44″) blade at the top. In the middle, the Batonata has a 254mm (10″) blade and the Kakuri at the bottom has a 210mm (8.26″) blade.
Uzi wood stock adapter attached to a vise for permanent attachment.
Overall length starting with the Batonata on the left is 443.6mm (17.58″). The Kakuri is 405mm (15.94″) and the Silky Nata is 340mm (13.35″).
Uzi wood stock adapter attached to a vise for permanent attachment.
A view frrom the top. Let’s review weights starting with the Batonata at the top – 900g (1.98 pounds). The Kakuri in the middle is 600g (1.32 pounds) and the Silky is 960g (2.11 pounds).
Uzi wood stock adapter attached to a vise for permanent attachment.
My least favorite sheath is the vinyl-over-wood design of the Kakuri in the middle. The Silky at the top has a really slick modern design and the Batonata has a really nice leather sheath.

So, my ranking is:

#1 – The Silky Nata – the rubber hande absorbs a ton of the shock and the thing is a chopper and a half. I will definitely use it more when I need something like a hatchet. It will have to compete with my khukuris but none of them have the extremely comfortable Genki handle.

#2 – The Batonata – The handle is comfortable and it takes a good bite. I definitely like the sheath. It looks cool too. Kudos to Condor for turning out a really decent nata-inspired blade.

#3 – The Kakuri – I have carpal tunnel and a handle of that size and shape is hard on my hands when I chop. It’s a perfectly decent nata and not the fault of the designers but I don’t see myself using it much going forward. If someone wants a traditional basic nata, I’d have no reservation recommending it.

Summary

I hope this gave you some history on the natas plus three models to think about. I’m definitely going to continue using the Silky and probably the Batonata but the Kakuri would be problematic with my carpal tunnel.

I truly hope this helps you out.


Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.


Please share the link on Facebook, Forums, with colleagues, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email us in**@*********ps.com. If you’d like to request a report or order a reprint, please click here for the corresponding page to open in new tab.


A Surprisingly Good Tomahawk From Amazon – The Nedfoss 12.2″ Tac – Yeah, I’d never heard of them either

I like axes, hatchets and tomahawks. I actually inherited a number of axes and hatchets from my dad and grandpa. I also have a number of CRKT and ColdSteel models among others – some are worth talking about and some are best forgotten or not mentioned out of sheer embarassment. This story is about a surprisingly good one.

You every buy something on a whim due to a photo? That’s what happened with me when I ordered the NedFoss 12.2″ Tac Tomahawk with G10 handle, full tang and 4.3″ bearded blade. I have a thing for bearded axes, hatchets and tomahawks (‘hawks’). Guess what? It’s surprisingly good – I’ve said that twice now – I didn’t expect to be impressed so let me tell you more – I’ve had it for almost five months now.

Let’s start with the ugly

I opened the Amazon box and saw the product box and wondered WTF I had just bought. It looked like the designer dropped acid and created the graphics. Literally, “what did I just buy?” went through my head.

Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
Uhmmm…. what mall ninja shit did I just buy? Do I return it? Do I tell anyone I even bought this? — These were all going through my head when I saw the product box.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
It was packed in a form fitting hard foam and when I pulled it out, the sheath, handle scales and rivets all caught my eye – they were all very nicely done both in terms of fitment and finish.

Details

After my intial panic over the box, I started taking a closer look at the little hawk. It was a fairly common size for people looking for a tactical or combat hawk. It’s just over 12″ long and the beareded head is 4.3″.

Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
The hawk is just over 12″ overall.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
The blade is just over 4″ and front to back is approximately 5″. Note the NedFoss lion logo that is elegantly cut into the head.
Nedfoss 12.2 inch Tac Tomahawk on a wooden surface with a black handle and grey blade
The back of the hawk’s head comes to a chisel point. Conceptually, it would hold up better striking a hard surface than the sharpened head.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
The handles are two separate G10 scales (one on each side) held in place by brass rivets. The grooves give for a very sure grip. The bottom of the tang swells open and serves as an effective hand stop. The hole helps reduce the weight.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
All of the rivets are well formed with no tool marks/blemishes on them.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
The handle is about 1″ front to back. That size should fit different size hands comfortably.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
The handle is about 5/8″ thick overall.
Uzi kit components: receiver, barrel, stock, and sights
The whole steel part of the hawk – tang, head and all – is made from one piece of 0.213″ 8Cr14MoV steel hardened to 55 HRC.
Nedfoss tomahawk close-up with Viking symbols and "NEDFOSS" text.
I could have done without the hokey printed “runes”. I would have been more impressed if they cut them in like they did the Lion’s head. Note, it is a pretty deep beard – I like the profile.
Nedfoss 12.2" Tac tomahawk axe with sheath, featuring a wolf design, on a wooden surface.
It includes a leather sheat/blade guard. It doesn’t have a belt loop – it just protects whatever from the sharp edge of the blade it it did arrive sharp.

How did it hold up?

That’s the big question right? I really wasn’t sure how the edge or the finish would hold up and it just so happens I have a wood pile with a lot of dried hard oak. I whacked on some of pieces or oak and so did a friend of mine.

Guess what happened? To my surprise the edge held so so did the grey “titanium” finish. The hawk swings easy, balances well and hits hard.

Nedfoss tomahawk with lion logo on head, black handle, resting on wood.
Close-up of the Nedfoss tomahawk blade edge, etched with a Vegvisir symbol.
Nedfoss tomahawk axe with black handle, close-up shot.

I really expected the oak to do a number on it and at least roll the edge over or markedly dull it but the edge held. I did not expect that. The 8Cr14MoV steel with a 55 HRC hardness held up remarkably well.

8CR14MoV is a general purpose Chinese knife alloy is a clone of AUS-8 having an identical composition. If you’d like to read a very detailed analysis of it, click here for a post on KnifeSteelNerds.com.

In Conclusion

You can’t go wrong for the price – you just can’t. This hawk is $79.99 at Amazon and has free returns if you don’t like it. In terms of ratings, it is at 4.6 out of 5 with 113 reviews. It’s not a $400-1,000 hawk so don’t compare it that way.

I’m keeping mine and my friend was so impressed he ordered one the same day he handled it. I’m so impressed that I plan on getting more of their models. I especially have my eye on one of their bearded camping hatchets.

Here are links on Amazon for you:

I hope you found this post of interest.


Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.


Please share the link on Facebook, Forums, with colleagues, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email us in**@*********ps.com. If you’d like to request a report or order a reprint, please click here for the corresponding page to open in new tab.


How to do Home Manganese Parkerizing

The Following is a Basic Do-it-yourself Manganese Parkerizing Formula

A couple of friends online, Elkaholic and Ding, got me interested in parkerizing years ago and gave me a home brew formula and process steps they use.  I have been tuning that formula for a few years and thought I would share it as I use it both for blades and firearms.  It works great as either the base for a top finish, such as Molyresin or as a finish all by itself.  You may be wondering “why not just buy a premade formula such as the great parkerizing solution from Brownell’s” – the short answer is because tinkering can be fun and more rewarding.  I like to experiment and try different things.   So, with that said, here is the recipe:

Ingredients

– 2 gallons of distilled water  (it gives more consistent results because impurities have been removed – sold at supermarkets and drug stores)
– 2 “biscuits” of clean plain 0000 steel wool (thinner steel wool dissolves faster hence the use of 0000 grade)
– 1 cup of Klean Strip brand Phosphoric Prep & Etch (or other phosphoric acid etching solution around 35-45% concentrate per the Prep & Etch MSDS sheet. Dilute the acid if higher. For example, if 100% pure then go 60 water:40 acid – you can always experiment with the ratio that works for you)
– 6 rounded tablespoons of manganese dioxide (available at pottery supply stores, Amazon or eBay)

Two kukri knives with black blades and handles on a wooden surface

Do this outside – never in your house or shop (unless you have a great vent hood).  If you do it indoors, you will likely make stuff rust fast!

Camp Chef two-burner stove with a large pot, propane tank, and accessories
Black wool being boiled in a pot on a camping stove for home parkerizing.

As you can see, I use a camp stove.  For the first couple of years I just used a Coleman stove but that was always a balancing act with my 48″ long stainless pakerizing tank that I used for barreled actions.  I found the above great Camp Chef stove at Amazon and it is fantastic but any heat source will work. I like propane because its portable and not electric (to avoid any chance of electric shock) and there are tons of propane camp stoves on Amazon.

Also, be sure to use stainless steel for your tanks.  I watch for sales or buy stuff off eBay.  The big cooker above is from Walmart and the rectangular pan shown below is from Amazon and is normally the water pan for buffet lines.

For tongs to move stuff around, use solid stainless.  I tried the plastic ones and they can leave a plastic residue on blasted surfaces and mess up your finish.

Just like baking, if you want more of the solution, take the recipe and multiply it by two, four or however many multiples you want. Just be sure you have a place to store it when done.  I use 5 gallon jugs and label them.

Steps to Follow

  1. Add acid to water in a stainless pan/pot and heat to 190F – don’t boil and waste it.  I use a baking thermometer clipped to the side of the pan.
  2. Spray each wool biscuit with brake cleaner to remove oils and allow each time to dry
  3. As the solution warms shred the steel wool into the liquid and add the manganese dioxide
  4. Let the mix simmer and dissolve the steel wool before adding parts
  5. I always blast my parts before I parkerize them – I’ve heard guys tell about using a wire brush on a buffer or drill press as well but I’ve not tried that.  Blasting removes the oxides and exposes the bare steel.
  6. Make sure your parts are very, very clean and degreased — only handle with rubber gloves after they are cleaned or oils from your skin can mess things up
  7. You can suspend your parts in the liquid with stainless wire.  Leave them until the fizzing stops or about 30-40 minutes.  The time varies.
    Manganese parkerizing tank with water and bubbling solution
  8. Rinse the parts with boiling water thoroughly to remove the acid.
  9. Spray parts with WD40 to get the water away from the steel
  10. Wipe down with oil or apply whatever secondary finish you want – don’t do both 🙂  If you are going to apply a finish on top of the parkerized surface, use acetone or brake cleaner to remove any oils and then follow their instructions.
Manganese parkerizing solution with firearm parts being cleaned

At the bottom of the post are links to Amazon products including long parkerizing tanks.

Cleaning Up

When you are done, let your mixture cool and strain the liquid through a coffee filter into a plastic can for future use. I use a blue kerosene 5 gallon container because it is a different color from all my other 5 gallon containers plus I label it.  Point being, you do not want to get confused and pour this stuff in when you meant to use a fuel, etc.

The precipitate, the stuff on the bottom, should be scooped onto a shallow pan, allowed to dry and be disposed of as a hazardous waste.  For example, where ever your community collects old paints, batteries, etc.

Brownells Has Great Parkerizing Solutions and Kits

Brownells sells very well regarded ready-to-use formulations. I have no hesitation at all to recommend the below items to you – they are top notch.

  • Click here for their manganese parkerization supplies. Their formula meets Mil Spec STD171
  • Click here for their zinc parkerization supplies
  • If you have a lot small parts you want to park, they have a bench top kit ready to go that you can buy – click here
  • Click here for their complete parkerizing tank system. This is a complete system for gunsmiths or others who need to park everything from small parts and pistols up to firearms and swords.

In Summary

I hope this helps you out. I’ve used the above many times and the results are solid.

Updated 2/13/24 with new sources and fixed some grammar issues.


Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.


Please share the link on Facebook, Forums, with colleagues, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email us in**@*********ps.com. If you’d like to request a report or order a reprint, please click here for the corresponding page to open in new tab.



Buck is keeping it quiet but they have tanto ground combat knives (GCKs) for sale exclusively on their website right now – SOLD OUT

Folks, around 2020 Buck Knives introduced a very handsome line of fixed blade knives they called the Ground Combat Knife (GCKs) with spear and tanto profiles as well as in black and flat dark earth (FDE) Cerakote colors. The canvas micarta handles were in black and a tri-color for the FDE blades. Despite being extremely nice, Buck discontinued them sometime in 2021. Since then, you could only find them on eBay … until now.

5/13/23 Update – Sorry folks but there is no trace of this knife on the Buck website now. A few guys told me they were able to score one but now they are gone.

So I was surfing and accidentally pulled up a GCK tanto page at Buck Knives and it showed inventory – curious huh? The knife blade is black Cerakote with an OD canvas micarta handle. I don’t think they offered this configuration before. Now, the price was (and is right now) only $114.99. I ordered a couple and they showed up a few days later. I honestly thought it might be a website bug because I had not heard about these – they are absolutely real.

Whoa…. I paid $199-250 for the four blades I had from the original run and these things are incredibly nice. I do not see these new 893BO-B blades on any other boards (Amazon, KnifeCenter, BladeHQ, etc.) – they are just on the Buck website. I searched Buck 893BO-B and am not finding them anywhere else.

Now here’s my advice. Go buy one. Do it. Do it now. Whether you are a collector or a user, go buy this. I am betting this is a limited run and you will not see it again. Click here to go there now … do it now! I paid a ton for my GCKs from the first run. You can get this new model for a steal.

  • Overall length: 10-3/24″
  • Blade length: 5-1/2″
  • Blade thickneess: 0.200″
  • Blade alloy: 5130 High Cabon
  • Paul Bos Heat Treat
  • Weight 9.9oz
  • Handle: OD Green Micarta
  • Sheath with MOLLE straps
  • The knife is made in the USA but the sheath is imported
  • Buck’s Forever Warranty

Photos of One of My New 893BO-B Knives

Black Raider welding helmet bag on wooden beams
Black Raider welding helmet bag on wooden beams
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Black Raider welding helmet bag on wooden beams
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Antra AH6-260-0000 auto darkening welding helmet with solar panel and bag
Notice the 4/6/2023 production date. These are brand new.

Summary – Buy This Knife Now!

Listen, you will rarely hear me say this – buy this knife now! If you like Buck tactical knives or you know how good they are (and they are very good) – buy this right now. For that matter, buy two – one to use and one to collect. These are superb and I thought we would never see them for a reasonable price again. I doubt Buck will have them indefinitely and you don’t want to miss this chance.


Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.


Please share the link on Facebook, Forums, with colleagues, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email us in**@*********ps.com. If you’d like to request a report or order a reprint, please click here for the corresponding page to open in new tab.