Folks, if you are like me and are sick and tired of the assault by liberals on our second amendment freedoms, you are always looking for sources of firearms advice. Youtube used to be a great source for videos on firearms – everything from reviews, to gunsmithing to build-it-yourself (BIY) guidance. Unfortunately, that is no longer the case – Youtube has turned anti-gun also and I resent it.
So, where can you see videos about firearms? One promising source is Gunstreamer – http://www.gunstreamer.com. I’ve watched a few videos there now and find the site easy to navigate and there are definitely some quality videos showing up there. Definitely check them out and consider supporting them – I am.
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I recently was looking for a free floating handguard for a 10.5″ AR pistol build and happened upon the new Midwest Industries (MI) Combat rail series. The name made me think mall ninja but the design is interesting and they did a good job manufacturing the assembly.
The 9.25″ M-LOK Combat rail looked good and three things caught my eye – the barrel nut was knurled, they had an innovative means of timing the handguard to the receiver, and it looked good. Yeah, looks do matter to me.
This is the 9.25″ MI Combat rail as it arrived. I have that small tub of barrel nut grease ready.
So,I availed on Holiday sales and ordered one from Optics Planet. The handguard arrives with everything inside. In other words, you need to unscrew the lower two clamping screws to then remove the barrel nut.
The first hint this is different from a lot of handguard that simply clamp is that insert in the middle – that’s the indexing key.Here is the knurled barrel nut, the indexing key and the two screws.
Now you may be wondering why I care about the design of the barrel nut. There are two reasons – first, the knurling creates a more anti-slip surface than a smooth surface would. Second, and perhaps more importantly, the groove that the key rides in allows the rail to align any way you need it to with the receiver without having to deal with shims and it inhibits the rail from sliding forward. Combine thee knurling, key and very generous tabs that position the rail on the receiver and this rail is very well retained. In other words, it isn’t going anywhere unlike many rails that shoot loose and all of a sudden you are holding the rail separate from the weapon because it slid off the barrel nut. That’s not going to happen with the Combat rail.
Installation Video From MI
MI took the time to assemble a short video for you to understand what is required to install the rail. It’s very straight forward.
My Installation Tips
To be honest, I read the paper instructions that came with the rail and realized it would really help to see what was needed so I watched the above video. I really do recommend you take just under 10 minutes to learn from them first hand. That’s tip #1 🙂
Tip #2 – I’d recommend you use a Magpul Barrel ExtensionVise Block – a “BEV Block”. You need to apply quite a bit of torque to remove the existing nut and 40 foot pounds to install the Combat barrel nut. Click here for a post that provides more details.
Note, the Giessele Reaction Rod works too but just costs more.
Tip #3 – When you remove the muzzle device and/or existing barrel nut, I’d recommend you use open end wrenches and NOT an adjustable wrench. Countless millions of nuts and muzzle devices have been marred or destroyed by adjustable wrench jaws giving too much and rounding corners.
I have a big SAW combination set that I use for tasks like this. For example, to remove the PSA barrel nut that was previously installed, I used this big 1-1/8″ wrench and it took quite a bit of torque to break it free. Again, use a BEV Block or Giessele Reaction Rod to safely handle the torque.
Tip #3 – do degrease the parts. You never know what was used during manufacturing or by a previous installer. For example, my PSA barrel nut was lubricated by some white colored grease. I have no idea what is was and used denatured alcohol to remove it from the receiver plus cleaned the new barrel nut.
Tip #4 – Do use Mil-Spec barrel nut grease. It is designed for the appplication and prevents the nut from sticking/corroding onto the upper receiver.
Tip #5 – Do use a torque wrench to install the handguard. I used to do “farmer tight” where you bring something up firm and call it even. The problem with that is either you apply too little torque and the nut loosens up or too much and you strip the threads. MI supplies the appropriate fitting for a 1/2″ torque wrench. The spec calls for 40 foot pounds so do it.
Tip #6 – for the same reason as the torque wrench, use a torque screw driver to install the gas tube (if it uses them and torque will be 25 inch pounds or there abouts) and the handguard’s Allen screws require 55 inch pounds.
I use a Vortex torquing screw driver for optics. It only goes up to 50 inch pounds so I installed the handguard screws to 50 and not 55. There are other screwdrivers that go higher but that is what I had handy.
The Wheeler FAT torquing screw driver can go up to 65 inch pounds. I have one and it works – I just don’t keep it on my bench now that I have the Vortex.
I’m very pleased. The rail is rock solid and looks great on my AR pistol.
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If you like working on AR-type rifles and plan to replace a muzzle device or change a barrel nut to install a free-floating handguard or to swap barrels, you are going to need to apply a lot of torque. Torque and aluminum are not friends and this is certainly the case with the upper receiver for AR rifles and pistols.
What not to do?
I actually want to take a minute and tell you two things not to do. First, do not simply clamp your lower in a vise and go cranking on whatever on the upper. Remember that the upper is connected to the lower by two steel pins going through relatively soft aluminim. Not a good combination.
Number two, there are work fixtures that look like a rectangle that allow you to remove the upper from the lower and then pin the upper to this block that is then held by a vise. I’m not fond of this either because then your two aluminum connection points on the receiver take up all the stress and they weren’t designed to do so.
Please do not do either of those or you may regret it. The odds are that you will regret it. I word it this way because you may get by once or twice but these methods are risky so don’t do them.
So what do I recommend?
I use a Magpul Barrel Extension Vise (BEV) block. It’s a very well designed block that engages via the barrel extension with its own steel lugs that are designed for strength but also to not harm the extension.
This is the top of the BEV block. You can see the front engagement lugs, the rear protrusion is for the bolt carrier and I would recommend keeping that O-ring oiled. The hole just under the front lugs is for a cross pin to secure it to the upper.
The BEV block uses a bolt carrier with the bolt removed to further secure it in the upper. You could remove the bolt from the bolt you normally use. I have a bolt carrier body that I keep in my toolbox for just this purpose.
The following photo shows it partially inserted in the upper.
This next photo shows it fully forward with the bolt carrier assembly installed. It does not have a cross pin installed at that point. Even without the pin it can handle the rotation stress. The pin just keeps it all in position and is not load bearing.
At this point you are good to go to change muzzle devices, barrel nuts or whatever else you may need to do without risking damage caused by torque. It’s a solid tool and I highly recommend it.
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It’s very common to have pistols and rifles with threaded muzzles. A very common thread pattern for .22, .204, .223/5.56 and even some 9mms is 1/2×28. This means the thread is 1/2″ wide and has 28 threads per inch (TPI). This is the most common pattern for AR rifles for example as .223/5.56 rifles tend to follow the original military specification thread pattern. There are many patterns out there so you always want to confirm.
For a variety of reasons, you may not want to install a muzzle device. If this is the case, I would recommend installing a thread protector, sometimes called a “muzzle nut” to protect the threads.
For example, here is a 10.5″ AR pistol upper receiver assembly. You can see the 1/2×28 thread and I did not plan on installing a muzzle device.
Thread protectors simply screw onto the end of the barrel. The only thing I do is to apply some Blue-Loctite to reduce the odds of the nut rattling off. Yes, the heat of the barrel will soften the Loctite but the “gummy” nature of it will do the job. If you plan on taking the thread protector off and putting it back on a lot, then don’t use a thread locker.
I hope this helps you out. The Amazon listing is the product I used on the above build and really like.
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Okay, I liked the leaves, the lighting and thought it would be a great chance to get some photos of the HK SP5K pistol with the SB Tactical SBTK5A brace and the Vortex Optics Crossfire red dot that is on an American Defense AD-T1-L STD quick release mount. As you can see above, I’m still using the Uncle Mike’s case.
So those are a few from the batch. Looking forward to taking it to the range some day.
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The lighting was right, the leaves were on the ground and it was a great chance to get some new photos of my PTR 105 PDWR pistol. This big pistol is the interesting brain child of PTR. It’s essentially a cut down HK 91.
The PTR 105 configuration has a PTR metal handguard installed. After messing with it some, I decided to install an MP5 handguard as I like the angle on the MP5 handguard more. This also means I should have just bought the PTR 110 that comes with that handguard.
Now, the only problem is that the MP5 handguard is not as rigid as I would like. I’ll experiment some with different handguards in the future.
The PTR 195 and 110 are big pistols at 23.5″ overall, 8.5″ barrels and weigh about 8 pounds. I wanted to install a brace but needed to be mindful of Michigan’s odd 26″ maximum pistol length law. This isn’t legal advice, but my understanding is that the Michigan State Police say that a pistol with a brace is measured from one end to the other in the minimum operable condition. So, by installing a side folder, I could have a brace for when I wanted to use it but also had the minimum operable length at 23″. What you see in the photo is an SB Tactical BTFA folding mechanism, buffer tube and SOB stock. When open, the weapon measures 32.5″.
Thanks to the BTFA folding mechanism, I can swing the SOB brace to the left and it locks open. This keeps the brace out of the way of the ejection port. You can configure the BTFA to go either left or right.It definitely has clean lines.The PDWR definitely likes the PPU battle packs of .308 FMJBT 145 grain ammo. It works great and is plenty accurate within 100 yards. I’ll need to try and shoot the PDWR for accuracy some day and see what it can do.
As you can see, the brace is folded open and operating side of the PDWR is nice and clear of any obstructions.
Given the PDWR is chambered in .308 and uses 20 round HK G3 magazines, that is a lot of firepower in a small package. Overkill? Sure. Fun at the range? Absolutely.
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If you are new to building AR lowers, there is one step that is, in my opionion, the most risky in terms of making a mistake and scratching the finish if not even gouging the aluminum. That’s when you go to install the bolt catch. You must juggle the receiver, spring, detent, catch, punch and hammer all at the same time while being right against the nicely finished receiver!
The two ears that hold the cross pin of the bolt catch are just above the magazine catch. In the small hole will sit the spring and the detent pin.
Historically, you had to get ready for battle and would tape your receiver to protect it from slipping punches or glancing blows by a hammer.
I would apply duct tape, Gorilla tape or something thick to protect the finish. Note, if you are starting out, taping is always a good idea no matter what.
Installing the slide catch is way easier now with the right tools. I have really come to rely on three punches to get the job done. The first is a purpose specific punch set from Wheeler this is flat on one side and has a protective rubber coating.
The Wheeler set has two punches. The starter punch has a hollow end that the pin sits in. This allows you to focus on the hole and hitting the punch with the hammer. The other is a roll pin punch that you can use to align the catch at the start and also drive the pin the final distance.Here the pin is being started.See, I use the roll pin punch on the left to align the bolt catch and also to capture the detent pin and spring. Once that punch is in, you can let go! Whew. You can then focus on tapping the starter punch on and making sure everything is aligned.
Now plenty of guys can get their build done with the above. Because of my tremor, I like to drive the pin in the rest of the way by using a really long roll pin punch that safely clears the receiver. I have a Tekton gunsmith punch set and the 1/8″ roll pin punch works great for me.
This is the nice Tekton gunsmith punch set that I really like. This is me with the 1/8″ roll pin punch.
I hope this helps you out. This is what I do every time now. It’s also what I use if I need to remove and replace an existing catch.
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This is the front of the bag – six magazine pouches, one large flat pouch to the front and the rear mounted carry handle is visible.
This is the back – you can see the shoulder strap and the carry handle at the top.
The case has a zipper at the rear of the bag and the SP5K simply slides in. This is one thing I dislike – it does not open and lie flat. Some folks may find this a plus but I prefer bags that open.
The exterior dimensions are 24.5x14x2 and I’d knock off about half and inch all the way around for the interior dimensions. It does have some padding but not a ton.
Another dislike I have is the way it holds the MP5 magazines. They slide down in the little pouches and I can’t pull them out. I need to push at the bottom to get them to slide up.
I pushed the magazines up so you can see them in this photo. Notice where the bulges indicating the actual lower part of the magazine in each pouch. In practice, the mags slide all the way down and are hard to get out. You have to press from the bottom.
On the topic of pouches, the front pouch just forward of the magazines is very tight. The bulge you see sticking out is a Mag Lula loader. While it can hold the loader, it’s really better suited for thinner items.
Okay, rounding out my complaints, the carry handle at the rear makes for an odd front-loaded unbalanced load. I don’t know why they didn’t center it.
Summary
It’s a decent entry bag and you can get it on Amazon [click here to see it]. Sure there are things I don’t like about it but does the job. I will be investigating other cases but this case is a solid performer at the price.
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