I’ve used presses for many years and have watched them bend stuff and or even shoot stuff across a room. One of the scariest sounds I used to hear was the “BANG” when an AK barrel pin would finally let go and come out. My point is that with a press, you are working with tons of pressure — literally. If you have a 20 ton press, that means you could apply somewhere around 40,000 tons of pressure.
Presses are pretty simple really – you have a frame made of steel with an adjustable shelf and a hydraulic bottle jack. As you pump the jack, the ram assembly is pushed/pressed down and applies pressure on whatever you have underneath. The shelf is open in the middle and arbor plates, or some metal plates are used in the middle to hold the work when pressure is applied.
The problem is that many of the press plates supplied with presses are not up to the task. I bent the plates that came with with my press — they were basically two pieces of thick U channel mystery metal that couldn’t handle the load. Now some guys have reported their cast iron press plates shattering under load and causing injury.
A few days later a couple of heavy Priority Mail boxes arrived with one plate in each.
I looked at the plates and did some thinking – I planned the cut it such that my most likely used opening would be available. I then used my PowerMax 45 plasma cutter to cut the plate. The 1.5″ thick piece was way past the unit’s limit. I went real slow from one side, turned it over and then did the other. I then did some grinding to clean it up.
Here’s the SWAG brake sitting on the plates.
Nothing is permanently attached. The press and the plates can be pulled out if I need to do any work that requires a different configuration.
The following two plates are smaller but you can get them off Amazon:
6/2/2019 Update: These plates are awesome. I have put some tremendous pressure on them when pressing parts using a 20 ton air over hydraulic bottle hack and they have not given at all. They are well worth it.
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I occasionally run into situations where I need to bend thick sheet metal or even bar stock to make brackets. I needed to make a new battery box for my plow and decided it was time to get a press brake. I did some digging around decided to get one from SWAG Off Road – their “20 TON Press Brake Heavy Duty” model that you can buy built or as a kit. They made the tablesaw system that holds my Milwaukee Portaband and that is a really sweet set up. At any rate, the maximum width it can bend is 19.25″ with a 110 degree radius bend.
Now, what really caught my eye were the dimensions of mild steel stock this press brake could bend:
19″ wide if 3/16″ or thinner
15″ in 1/4″
13″ in 5/16″
11″ in 3/8″
6″ in 1/2″
3″ in 5/8″
Most of the stock I bend is 3/8″ or less so this was right in line with what I wanted.
The brake is designed to work with two different 20 ton Harbor Freight press models – the 32879 and 606043. My press is a 30 ton IIT H-frame so I had to make sure the total width of the brake was going to work – 22.125″ – and it did with room to spare. Note that while my press frame is 30 ton, I run a 20 ton bottle jack on it so I matched the press brake to my the actual press capacity I I run.
So, armed with that, I bought the kit for $224.95 shipped off Amazon and it showed up about a week later coming in several heavy USPS Priority mail packages.
The kit was very well packed and the instructions were very straight forward. I actually had a fun time assembling it. All you need is a welder, grinder, and a square (in my case, I used a 1-2-3 block for most of the squaring).
Their instructions were very straight forward. I am going to follow their steps in my write up and also add commentary.
I laid everything out and made sure I had all of the the parts before I started and I did.
Step 1 Weld in the Guide Rods and Ears
I hammered the rods part way into the bottom plate and made sure they were square. The fit is tight on purpose so you need a good sized hammer and a solid surface. You don’t hammer them in all the way as you are going to weld from the bottom. Be sure to tack weld the rods first and double check they are square one more time before you do the final weld. I used a 1-2-3 block to true my bars up. You do want to make sure they are fairly square as the brake’s blade assembly needs to be able to rid up and down them.
Next, they talk about tacking the “ears” back on that you can use to secure the brake in your press. These are the little tabs that go into the notches on the front of the lower assembly. Now save yourself some time and make sure the dimensions will work for you. I went through the whole building process and found out the tabs stopped my brake from going back far enough in the press to align with the ram and I had to cut them off. Knowing SWAG, I bet the brake lines up like a charm on the two Harbor Freight press models they mention so this is because I am using a very different press (It is something like 20+ years old now too :-). If the ears do work for you, you may need to file some excess metal off. One of my ears had just a bit of waste metal left after cutting that filed right off in just a few seconds. You can see the fit is great. As with the other stuff, fit it in place, tack weld and then do the final weld when ready. By the way, tack weld first to avoid the metal warping from the heat and moving out of the position you need – this is true for the whole kit.
In case you are wondering, I am using a Miller 211 MIG with gas. It works great for me. It has a far better weld and duty cycle than the Harbor Freight model I started with years go.
To protect my eyes, I use a very well regarded Antra AH6-260-0000 Solar Power Auto Darkening Welding Helmet that works great for me.
Step 2 – Weld the Vertical Guide Tubes
Next carefully position the guide tubes on the brake’s blade. I used a Harbor Freight steel welding table and a number of magnetic clamps to get everything in position and secure before I then tack welded, tested the fit and then did the final welds. Note, the blade edge of the die is facing up and the guides are aligned to what will be the top of the die. I am a bit obsessive with welding. I had the heat cranked up on the welder and did two heavy passes. My welding will never get me any awards – even I admit I am a grinder 🙂 I forgot to get a picture of the welds at this step but you’ll see them later.
Step 3 – Welding the Bottom Die
The first step is to weld the two carriage bolts into place that will hold the guide later. You *must* do them now as you will not have access to them once the angle iron is welded in place. I simply turned the heat down on the Miller, put the wing nuts on the bolts to hold them in place and did a few quick welds.
Now the next part is to weld the angle iron in place. In their instructions, SWAG said I might need to grind the bottom of the angle iron to get it to sit evenly in the channel. That did not seem to be a problem with my parts. To align the angle iron in the channel, I sprayed non-stick on the upper die and then installed it on the lower die and checked alignment. This seemed to work really well – the weight and position of the blade lined the angle iron up perfectly (a month later an I am still happy with it). I then tack welded the angle iron base in place on the lower die and then welded it in place doing a section at a time on opposing sides. I welded a closing X – starting with the corners and then moving inward a few inches at a time to avoid warping.
Step 4 – Weld the Shaft Collar
For me, the collar helps be center on the ram of my press but I do not leave it connected. I definitely wanted it though so I welded it on. I measured and found the center, positioned the collar, tack welded it and then did the final weld.
Step 5. Paint It
My shop is basically an unheated garage so I have to fight condensation. Unpainted / unoiled surfaces tend to rust so cleaned all the parts when brake cleaner and applied three coats of Black Satin Krylon that combines a primer and the paint in one finish. Definitely let it cure for a day before you reassemble — this is an important lesson I learned years ago – dry to the touch and cured ready to use are two different things.
At this point I had to get the press ready and that meant installing real press plates that could safely (emphasis on safely) handle 20 tons of pressure. Candidly. the cheap cast iron plates that come with most presses are not up to the task so we’ll talk about this in the next blog post.
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For years I have have heard how great Geissele (pronounced Guys-Lee) triggers are. They offer a ton of models so I actually called them and talked about what trigger to use for a target rifle – which is the rifle shown above. After some talking, the gentleman I talked to recommended their Super Semi-Automatic Enhanced (SSA-E) trigger. I bought it direct from them and have been very happy. Here are the SSA-E specs on the trigger direct from the Geissele web page:
Type:
2 Stage
1st Stage Weight:
2.3lbs.
2nd Stage Weight:
1.2lbs.
Total Pull Weight:
3.5lbs.
Adjustable:
No
Recommended Use:
Target Shooting, Precision Shooting
Pin Size:
Mil-Spec
After shooting with it, I can tell you it is my favorite AR trigger hands down. Now I know why guys swear by them. The only con is the cost but you are definitely getting value in return.
I was surfing around on Youtube and found this video today – I wish I had known about it before as it would have helped me also. Bill Geissele, the man himself, walks you through their 15 models of triggers and answers common questions he gets about them. I definitely want to try one of their Super 3-Gun (S3G) or Super Dynamic 3-Gun (SD-3G) triggers in the future and will definitely go the SSA-E route again if I build another precision rifle.
By the way, unless you are in a rush, Geissele triggers go on sale 2-3 times per year at Midway, Brownells, Primary Arms and other sources. I paid $240 for my trigger and could have saved 40% if I had timed my purchase better. That’s what I am doing with my 3-Gun trigger purchase – just waiting for the next sale.
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This is a purpose-built target rifle. I like my precision rifles to be very heavy as the weight helps absorb my tremor. Granted I still have to control my breathing and pretty much meditate to get to the right point to pull the trigger but the weight really helps. The rig as shown without ammo weighs 13.7 pounds. Now let’s get into the details of the components used in this rifle.
In this case, the upper was the most important item I focused on first. This is a 26″ White Oak Armory (WOA) complete upper and these folks are known for building accurate rifles. White Oak Armament is in Carlock, IL, and owned by John Holliger. John has a ton of experience with competition shooting starting in 1980 finishing 15 times in the Presidents 100, earning the Distinguised Rifleman Badge, 2000 CMP Pershing Trophy winner and more. Needless to say, he knows his way around a competition firearm. John founded White Oak Precision in 2000 and then While Oak Armament after that as he noticed that custom gunsmiths and picky shooters (me) needed a reliable source of high end AR parts. What I think is especially remarkable is that his prices are very fair especially given the quality of what he delivers.
From their website they note “Receivers are all forged and mil spec or higher quality, and have the baked-on, anti-friction coating on the inside for long life. Bolts are held to proper tolerances for correct headspacing. Bolt carriers have M-16 style shrouded firing pins for reliable function and added weight. Handguards are top quality compression molded and fiberglass reinforced, not the cheap injection molded plastic. Our NM floating handguard assembly is our own design using heavy walled tubing, a solid welded end cap, and a sling swivel. Many parts are custom manufactured to our specifications. And of course everything is 100% made in the USA!“
What I decided on was one of their 26″ varmint upper. Now at 26″, it’s pretty much overkill but is nice and heavy weighing in at 7.88 pounds all by itself. While WOA does offer fluting, I did not opt for it as I wanted the weight. By the way, fluting increases surface area for cooling and reduces weight but it is not something magical. The unfluted barrel is stiffer. I am going to try and word this very carefully – a fluted barrel is stiffer than another barrel of the same final weight due to the thicker walls. In other words, take a thin barrel that weighs X pounds and a fluted barrel that weighs the same X pounds, it will be stiffer because it has the thicker walls around the fluting but it is not as stiff as a the original unfluted barrel. Now this matters if you are shooting a lot and the barrel is warming up such as lots of target or varmint shooting at prairie dogs. So, stiffer and heavier is the route I will always take. If you told me I would have to carry a rifle around a lot then my answer would change 🙂
The barrel itself is a 26″ stainless match grade unit with an 11 degree crown to protect the muzzle and their own “WOA Varmint Chamber” to allow the use of either .223 or 5.56 ammo. The twist rate is 1:8. I like to shoot heavier bullets to buck the wind and 1:8 will stabilize bullets from 75-80 grain quite well. I have both Black Hills match ammo as well as just got some IMI RazorCore specifically for this rifle.
Last point, this complete upper – including the matching BCG and charging handle – was only $645 + S&H. That, my friends, is quite a deal. [Click here if you want to see what other complete uppers they have for sale.]
The lower is an Anderson. They are my goto lower receiver as they are mil-spec and work just fine. I’ve never had an out-of-spec problem with them actually.
It has Yankee Hill Machine (YHM) oversize pivot and takedown pins. I just like the extra leverage when I have to open or remove the upper.
The buttstock is a Magpul PRS II. I always like these stocks as I can get my length of pull and cheekweld exactly the way I want. Under the stock is a rifle length tube with a normal spring and an H2 buffer.
The grip is an Ergo Tactical Deluxe with palm shelf. I like the rubber overmold they do and appreciate the palm rest on a target rifle.
I’m proud of the trigger – it’s a Geisselle (pronounced like “GuysLee”) Super Semi-Automatic Enhanced (SSA-E) and feels fantastic. The first stage is 2.3 pounds, the second is 1.2 pounds, which totals 3.5 pounds. It’s not adjustable but that’s no big deal to me. For now on, if I build a target rifle, this is the trigger I will use. Wow.
The Vortex is a bright, clear and rugged Vortex HS-T 6-24×50 scope with a MOA reticle. Normally I would go with MRAD but Vortex was sold out at the time so I went with MOA. I’m firing from known distances so it’s not a big deal for me. The offset scope mount is also from Vortex and gives me a better distance from my eye to the optic. I used to go with generic rings and mounts but am pretty much just using Vortex now unless I need something specialized such as an RS!Regulate mount for an AK. Lastly, those are Vortex’s new Defender Scope caps and they are way better than their old ones. They stay on well and are rugged.
With the big scope, I have a BVM Mod 3 charging handle sticking out. It really pays off with big optics.
So, this rifle is a lot of fun. I just fired off 20-30 rounds to break it in and need to get back to the range with some match ammo I have from Black Hills and IMI’s RazorCore ammo to see what it can do.
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ARs are a fun, quick build and because they are modular you can take them in a ton of custom directions. When you build an AR, you need to first ask yourself “what am I going to use this for?” and then plan your components accordingly. In this case, I wanted a 16″ carbine that was relatively light, chambered in 5.56 and had an optic for short to medium ranges. In some ways you could say my plan was to build a tactical style rifle.
So, let me explain the components used and why I selected them:
At the heart of the AR is the receiver and I tend to use Anderson. Â They are Mil-Spec, inexpensive and well finished. Â In short, I’ve never had a problem with them and I don’t know anyone else who has either.
I like PSA’s lower build kits as a starting point for all the internals. Â Sometimes I have left overs depending on what all I upgrade but even their based build kits is solid.
The fire control group (FCG) is PSA’s enhanced set meaning the trigger and hammer are Nickel Boron (NiB) coated for lubricity and ease of cleaning. Â In general, PSA already has some of the best feeling triggers out there in terms of the Mil-Spec out-of-the-box AR triggers. Â The Enhanced set feels a tad slicker but still falls in the 5.5-6.5# pull range.
The grip is a Magpul MOE.
The butt stock is a Magpul STR. Â I like the Magpul stocks that clamp in place – they are rock solid. Â The STR can do this and has a great angled top for a solid cheekweld.
It has a Spikes H2 buffer to soften the operation up a bit.
I like Yankee Hill Machine’s (YHM’s) oversize pivot and takedown pins and get them from Brownells.
The selector lever is PSA’s ambidextrous model. Â To be honest, I’m going to stop getting the ambidextrous selectors – the capability sounds great in theory but what I find is that I am so used to the traditional selector lever that I rarely use the operating-side lever.
The slide release lever is a GIANT Wilson. Â I bought it sight unseen via Brownells and had no idea it was going to be this big. Â On the plus side, it sure is easy to find and operate. Â On the con side, it is big and kind of fugly if you ask me. Â My go to release lever these days are the Strike Industries models. Â By the way, if you use the Wilson, be sure to apply Loc-Tite to the set screw that locks the paddle in place or it will loosen up.
The upper is a 16″ Palmetto State Armory with a 5.56 M4 profile barrel with a 1:7 twist hidden under their cool slim Keymod handguard. Â Honestly, I think PSA makes great uppers. Â They are running a budget operation and you may have to wait to hear from their customer service department but I have never actually had an upper from them have a problem. Â They’ve missed a part in parts kits before but always moved fast to ship me a replacement part. Â By the way, PSA also soures some really barrels, that is one of the big reasons I use their uppers.
The bolt carrier group is a Nickel Boron (NiB) coated assembly from Fail Zero. Â Boy are they slick. Â In general NiB BCGs are cool – you can feel they slide easily without a gritty feeling and clean easily. Â With Fail Zero you are buying experience – they know BCGs and they pioneered the very slick polished NiB process they call “EXO Nickel Boron”. Â I’ve not had the coating flake on me and it is slick.
The charging handle is VLTOR/BCM Mod.3 with the large handle. Â I like the oversized handle both for working around optics and it is really easy to find and operate. Â This is my preferred charging handle and has never let me down. Â Beware of the cheap import ambidextrous knock off handles. Â You will get what you pay for. Â Stick with name brand.
For magazines, I like MagPul.
The optic is a Vortex Crossfire II 1-4×24. Â In general, Vortex scopes are excellent and they have a no-nonsense “if it breaks we will fix it” warranty that you can’t beat.
The offset scope mount is a generic unit sold by TMS. Â It’s my third TMS but I now just use Vortex mounts.
The offset backup sights are something I do now on my rifles with optics. Â If you have any kind of optics failure you rotate the rifle 45 degrees and use the iron sights. Â They look awkward but the transition is actually very smooth and fluid. Â If you haven’t tried this, I’d recommend giving them a whirl. Â These are surprisingly inexpensive ADE brand sights and they’ve held up just fine. Â This is my third set from them via Amazon.
The light is a test unit. Â The light itself is a LiteXpress X-FIRE1 LED unit that is sold on Amazon. Â The mount is from them also and is the only part I am not too keen on as it flexes. Â They do have a new model now so I am not sure how the mount is. Â The light itself has held up just fine.
You can build an AR-15 in an amazing number of different ways. There are so many options out there. Helping you get started, PSA has a huge variety of kits you can select from. They’ve always worked great for me.
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When I bought my Gladius a few months back from Airgun Depot, it came as a package deal with a Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO Mil-Dot illuminated scope with a 1″ tube [Model 14252].
I had heard some good reports about Hawke so I figured I would give the scope a chance. It is bright, clear and decent eye relief (3.5″). The controls all turn easily and I really prefer adjustable objective scopes (AO) for air rifles. It lets me focus and get a range estimate of the target. Most of my shooting is at 10 yards but I do stretch out further at times.
Oddly enough, the Gladius does not have a standard Picatinny rail on top but rather some unique interpretation Hatsan came up with that allows the use of either Picatinny 22mm rings or 11mm dovetail rings. It looks odd but it works. Personally, I just wish they did a standard Picatinny rail on top vs. both but that’s just me.
First off, I looked at lots of photos of the Gladius and other bullpups and was rather surprised how high guys mounted the scope. An air rifle is still beholden to the laws of physics and trajectories. A scope mount should be as low as possible for two reasons: First and foremost, it causes less parallax. Just think about it this way, the higher the right triangle from your eye to the muzzle, the steeper the angle and the greater the change over a given distance. Second, a lower scope tends to enable a more consistent cheek weld getting the shooter to be more accurate. If you line up differently behind the scope each time, your point of impact will differ. Consistent cheek weld and alignment behind the scope matter.
So, rather than use the high 11 mm Beeman rings that Airgun Depot sent me, I used a pair of low profile UTG RQ2W1104 LE Grade rings. I have used many UTG rings over the years and find them to work fine in non-precision situations. If I am doing a target rifle, I’ll use true precision machined rings from companies such as Vortex. In this case, UTG would work just fine and I used their quick release rings which are nice when you want to get the scope off the rifle in a hurry. What is important is that they need to be snug, Tighten the adjustment screws so you get a nice solid lock up.
Now you may be wondering why I am using low profile rings with a 50mm scope and its because of the big scope mount riser that Hatsan put on the rifle. It’s just fine for the front objective to extend down lower than the rings because of the riser and the rear eye piece clears just fine. This is what lets the scope get closer to the center line of the barrel.
With this set up the center of the scope is 2-1/4-3/8″ from the center of the bore.
I spent the extra money on the Gladius thinking I would need to adjust the cheekpiece but I actually get a real nice cheekweld with this set up. I have almost 250 pellets through the rifle and everything is working fine. The scope and rings are holding zero no problem and I have adjusted the AO and power knob countless times. On some scopes this would be the kiss of death but the Hawke has handled all the adjustments just fine.
The rifle cylinder you see has a regulated cylinder at 130 bar and is getting sub 1/2″ groups at 10 yards with 18.13 grain JSB Jumbo Diabolo Heavy Exact pellets and handles pests no problem.
Normally I would use a Vortex scope but I am quite pleased with the Hawke Vantage II.
Note, I didn’t list the sizes on the Butler Scope caps. The front is too lose and I need to find something better as it wants to come off vs. flipping open right now. That will be a future post.
2/22/2018 Update: The scope and rings are holding up great. I have no complaints at all. The Gladius is an excellent rifle and this combo of rifle, rings and scope have really proven themselves to me. I have not had any problems at all with the scope holding zero.
5/24/2019 Update – still rock solid. The scope has held zero this whole time and I use the rifle Gladius quite a bit for pest control – at least several times per week. I’d say I have well past 1,000 rounds through the rifle now.
2/21/2020 Update – No problems
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For my job, I wind up travelling and I can’t tell you how many times I have had luggage parts come loose or need to fix a zipper. The beauty of these Swiss+Tech tools is that they are tiny and light. They will never win a brute strength contest but when you need a simple screw driver or a small strong set of pliers/tweezers, or wire cutter these things kick butt. I think it is rather unfair when people compare them to full sized tools – they were never designed for that. Look at the pivot pin – it’s a tubular rivet!
I’ve had both tools for years. I just bought this new set off Amazon to put in luggage. The 6-in-1 goes in my carry on bag and then 19-1 goes in my check-in. If you just want to buy one, get the 6-in-1. That can get just about any small job done and are cheap off Amazon.
By the way, you can fix a ton of problems when travelling with the 6-in-1, a roll of electrical tape and a few zip ties of varying lengths. For example, if a zipper pull comes off, insert a small zip tie, run 4-6 layers of electrical tape around it and then cut off the excess zip tie. Done.
Another plus is that they are so cheap you don’t feel bad if they get lost. I gave my wife one as a stocking stuffer and that went over like a lead brick – don’t do that 🙂
So, can you fix a car with these? No. Fix stuff better than fingers alone when travelling? Absolutely.
7/20/19 Update: I can’t tell you how many times these little things have bailed me out on trips. When I lose one, I buy a new one – in other words they are worth it to me. Also, I’ve not had one fail. I’ve yanked up stuck zippers, tightened screws on luggage. cut small wires, etc.
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Guys, I like multi tools when I travel or go camping. I have torn up a boat load of cheap imported ones and a Stanley just by trying to use the pliers to grab on to something really tight. I have never had a problem with a Gerber or Leatherman tool – let me say that up front.
At any rate, I wanted to find something compact and with locking blades. I have a Gerber multi tool that I have used a ton since 1998 and my only issue is the lack of a lock on the blade. You don’t really think about the lock until the first time you are really yanking on something to cut it and that blade starts to close! It’s been my goto tool for years and is showing its age.
At any rate, I did some digging around and decided on the Gerber Suspension. All the tools I worried about have a positive locking system and the handles fit your hand pretty well. It has 4.6/5 stars with 1,493 reviews on Amazon. That is a pretty darned good score! I get the warm fuzzies when I see scores like that and the unit was only $23.49 shipped with Amazon Prime.
Here are features and my thoughts
Needle-nose Pliers – Important
Wire Cutter/Stripper – Important
Straight Blade – Important
Serrated Blade – Maybe – they work great on rope
Phillips Screwdriver – Important
Large and Medium Flathead Screwdrivers – Important
Scissors – I have no idea if I will ever really use this but it is an interesting design and seems solid
Bottle Opener – Important – this is an Emergency Beer Access Tool
Can Opener – Important – I can’t tell you how many cans I have opened over the years thanks to the can opener in my old Gerber]
Saw – not that important
Awl – not that important
Lanyard Ring – not that important
Open, it is 6.5″ long and closed it is 4″ long plus it has a little belt / storage pouch.
Here are photos of mine:
So far, everything seems solid. I tested the locking mechanisms and they work. I took a steel rod and grabbed on with the pliers as hard as I could and nothing bent. I’ve had tools in the past where if I did that the handles would crumple. Literally, I put a bar in a vise, grab hold with the pliers and then try and turn the bar which is pretty much impossible. The Suspension held up just fine.
I’m going to be using this more over the summer and we’ll see how it holds up.
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![The Gerber Suspension Multi Tool [22-01471] is Pretty Nice!](https://blog.roninsgrips.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/IMG_20170705_195345.jpg)
