Video: How to build an AK-47, AK-74, AKM. Complete video tutorial by bfgmovies — Best Rivet and Virgin Barrel Build Video I’ve Seen!

Folks, once in a while I find out a snap judgement I made is very wrong.  I was watching AK Build videos on Youtube and ran across this video with a very young man with long hair and anime shirt sitting down to talk about building an AK.  I almost snorted because it must be some kind of a gag.  Within the first five minutes I realized this young man was very knowledgeable, articulate and very capable at demonstrating how to build an AK.  I was floored.  I almost missed this because my snap judgement was so off.  Wow.

This young man assembled a 55:59 long video showing you how to do an AK build with a manufactured receiver using a virgin barrel and he explains things along the way.  To give you an idea of the quality, this video was posted in May 2013, has had 104,441 views, 1,114 thumbs up approvals and only 74 thumbs down.  Folks, that is remarkable.

I am sharing a number of photos from the video to get you to realize this is really good.  He steps you through everything including aligning the blocks on the barrels, the barrel to the receiver, drilling pin holes, headspacing, setting rivets and then final assembly, including installation of the fire control group (FCG), function testing, installing the furniture, and finally winding up with applying Alumahyde II from Brownells as the finish.  I’d honestly say it is the best AK build video I have seen thus far that takes you all the way through the process.  This is really worth your time.

P.S.  The music and anime at the end is a nice touch 🙂

If you want to learn more, check out these other two video by bfgmovies:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 6 (the last part) by usmcdoc14

This is his last video in the six part series.  He recaps what he did and shares with you some of his tips for sandblasting such as putting foam earplugs in the chamber.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 5 by usmcdoc14

This is the 5th video in his six part series.  If you are building from a flat, then you need to pay careful attention to this.  He shows how to file the ejector tip down plus also shows how to do the spot heat treating in this video with a MAPP torch.  I spot heat threat the fire control group (FCG) pin holes but I heat treat the entire lower rails outside of the receiver before I spot weld them in.  His method works just fine so pay attention.  If you are building from a finished receiver then the odds are it has already been heat treated – if you have any doubt, ask the vendor that made it.

By the way, if you need a MAPP torch, go to Home Depot or Lowes (I prefer HD) and buy a Bernzomatic MAPP torch.  Personally, I use a MECO Midget Oxy Acetylene (OA) torch that works great for sheet metal.  Do some comparison shopping though.  It may be real expensive online if they ship the gas too.

Note, the Bernzomatic MAPP torch is definitely more portable so there are times I use it but if I need a lot of heat fast, I get out one of my OA rigs.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:

 


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 4 by usmcdoc14

In this fourth installment, you can see usmcdoc14’s welding results and he discusses how to trim the top rails.  Note, a lot of flats and receivers now have pre-cut top rails so you only need to trim them if they look like what you see in the video – big, wide and straight.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 3 by usmcdoc14 [He is doing a weld build]

   

Now in this video he shows how he does the actual welding of the front trunnion.  I will definitely post some videos on how to do rivet builds also.  For guys looking to build authentic AKMs with sheet metal receivers that is the route to go.  I’m not disparaging weld builds – I’ve done at least three that I can recall.  For home builders you have three methods and they all work if you take your time to learn and then build them the right way – rivets (the traditional and proven best approach for full-auto military use), weld builds and screws.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 2 by usmcdoc14

  

Here is the second video in usmcdoc14’s series about building an AK using a flat.  He still swears left and right (which I find hilarious – when he said “sandblast the shit out of them” I started laughing) and gives you some good recommendations on checking the past receiver stub from the kit.  He talks about his approaches for weld and rivet builds.  He does make one comment I don’t agree with.  To press out the barrel from the rear trunnion you do not need to remove the rear sight block (RSB) – you just push out the barrel pin out and then press the barrel out.  Second, and this is just my opinion, with a weld build I would still drill some holes where the rivets were at and do plug welds otherwise you are going to pour on a ton of heat, may still not get good penetration and risk ruining the heat treat of the trunnion locking lugs.

Other than that, I think it is a good video and worth you watching and learning from.  Your best bet is to watch multiple guys and decide what works for you.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 1 by usmcdoc14

 

A few guys have contacted me wanting to learn more about how to build AKs from kits.  Many of the resources I learned from when I started way back when (ballpark in 2006) are now gone.  I do recommend AKFiles and their gunsmithing section so check that out.  We really didn’t have Youtube then and when I did some research I found some great videos for you to watch.

A gentleman on Youtube, usmcdoc14, put together a four part series.  This is part one and is 29:58 long.  He swears left and right and I got a real kick out of watching and listening to him:

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:

 


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Review: Wen 61720 Brad Nailer Works Great and is VERY Affordable!!

Hiya folks, my hands shake due to what is known as a hereditary tremor.  When I try to do fine work it often gets even worse and I hate trying to drive fine nails/brads.  A number of years back I bought a Harbor Freight brad nailer that broke in 2016 after a few years of very light use (read that to mean the quality was very disappointing from the get go).  So, rather than play Russian Roulette with Harbor Freight, I went to Amazon and started digging on brad nailers and reading the reviews.

I came across the WEN 61720 3/4-Inch to 2-Inch 18-Gauge Brad Nailer.  It is both their best seller and with 926 reviews, it has 4.7 stars.  Folks, when you have that many reviews and that kind of score, it says something.  If a product sucks, reviewers can go back in and change the score so I figured the quality must be pretty decent.  I paid $26.33 for it in May 2016 and now it is $19.34!!  Yes, the price actually went down.  But I tell you what, I have no regrets.

The Wen uses regular 18-gauge brads.  It came in a simple plastic case with a small tube of oil and instructions.  It even had the 1/4″ air fitting installed.  I’ve used Senco, Bostitch, Porter Cable and Harbor Freight brads no problem.  I bought a few variety packs of brads but most of my nailing seems to be 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-3/8″ and 1-1/2″ with this unit.  I have a bigger 16 gauge nailer that I use for longer heavier nails.

 

To make moving the nailer around easy, I have a 1/4″ x 50′ Amflo Polyurethane air hose on it with Milton fittings.  This hose is light and very flexible.  Even in the winter it has been great – I use it to put air in my truck tires when it is so cold that my rubber hoses are stiff.  By the way, if you want air couplers that hold up over time and do not leak – go with Milton.  They beat the beat the heck out of Harbor Freight and Husky.

I tend to run the tool between 60-90PSI depending on how hard I want it to hit the nail.  If you are working with really soft pine, it can really drive it in so I run a lower pressure, usually 60 PSI, in those cases.  I will drive a test brad and look at the results to decide if I need to adjust the pressure further or not.  Most of my work is with pine but I have also done some poplar as well as a bit of oak trim.

As with just about any air tool, be sure to lubricate it with air tool oil.  I don’t run inline oilers due to needing clean air for my plastic work so I simply put in a few drops when I start using the tool for the day.  I have used all kinds of oil and just stick with name brands.  Right now, I have bottles from ATS and others sitting by various tools.  I would recommend sticking with a name brand and one that is relatively light for use in nailers vs. thicker for impact wrenches (Lucas is an example of a heavier pneumatic tool oil).  Also, unless you have an inline oiler, a squeeze bottle with a spout really helps vs. a pour top that will make a big mess.  For guys getting started, the small bottle that comes with the nailer will last you quite a while – just be sure to use it!!  Don’t run the nailer dry.

My project the other day was to resurrect and old planter from my dad.  I took the screws off and each shelf that was stapled together had become very loose.  I put a few drops of air tool oil int he Wen’s inlet fitting, selected brads that were a hair shorter than the wood I was putting together, and then drove 2-3 of the small 1-1/4″ brads into each individual slat to stabilize it.  I then reassembled the plant stand with new screws, stained it with Minwax Provincial Stain and applied 4 spray on coats of satin spar polyurethane on top.  The project turned out great.  It’s rock solid and it’s a little something from my dad that reminds me of him.

So I have driven probably at least 500 brads with this over the past year without one problem of any kind.  The reliability is a huge plus as I hate having to mess with tools to get them to work.  I have no problem recommending this Wen brad nailer to you for relatively casual use – I do not use it in production.  I’d certainly buy it again – you can’t beat the combination of quality and price.


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When Strength and Quality Matter Most