Category Archives: Tools

Tired of tripping your circuit breaker when your air compressor refills? You can easily fix that!

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I tell you what it is really hard to get by without a compressor but it can also be but it can also be a real headache if the circuit breaker regularly, or even unpredictably, trips when the compressor tries to top off the tank.  There a couple of really easy modifications we can do to the compressor but before that, let’s step through a couple of things first just in case there is another issue at hand:

Safety Stuff

I actually spent more time trying to think about the what-ifs than actually writing the two options to make your compressor start softer but I do want you to approach this safely.  I am assuming you are handy with a basic understanding of electrical wiring and compressed air to do this work.

First, you should be using a properly sized circuit or at least one that is very close.  If your compressor needs far more than what your circuit is sized for, say 30 amps and you only have a 15 amp circuit, then the fix I am going to tell you may not help.  It  does often help when you have a circuit that is very close to the required amps but when there is a heavy draw, it exceeds the circuits capacity so the breaker trips.  My experience is that consumer air compressors list a low draw number like 15 amps and can draw more than that under peak load.  So, for example, if you have a 15 amp circuit and a compressor that says it needs 15 amps – you may be having some challenges that this modification might help with.

In terms of properly sizing a circuit, engineers and others can give you rules of thumb such as doubling the circuit capacity to allow for spikes in demand or to allow 6 amps per 1 HP for 1 phase or 1.25 amps per HP for 3 phase.  Doing this means running new wire and installing new breakers.  DO NOT JUST PUT IN A BIGGER BREAKER!  The breaker is protecting the wiring from over heating and catching fire.  Each thickness, or gauge, of wire has a limit to the number of amps it can carry.  Never put a higher capacity breaker on a smaller cable – you are asking for trouble in the worst way.

Second, plug the compressor directly into the wall.  An extension cord will likely introduce too much resistance and cause the breaker to trip so do not use an extension cord (assuming your compressor is not an air nailer or air brush model – they draw so little that they can use extension cords).

Third, I have only encountered this a few times over the years but breakers can wear out over time.  If you investigate and it seems that you should have enough capacity and can’t figure out why your breaker is tripping, then try installing a new breaker and see if that helps.  Again, install the right size and don’t put the wiring at risk of fire.  If in doubt, bring in an electrician to straighten things out.

Fourth, if you look at your outlets and/or wiring and they look burned, there is any trace of soot or a burned smell stop and get an electrician to inspect the line.  It may sound funny but I have seen lines fail over the years for a ton of unexpected reasons.

Now, on to making a compressor softer starting

So, with those things said, let’s say you need to make your compressor work better with the circuit you have for whatever reason, let’s talk about what some folks call a “soft start” modification.  It’s called this because it makes it easier for the pump and compressor to start and come up to speed before a heavy load is introduced.

The way a compressor works is that a motor has to turn the pump and send air through a filler tube into the main tank. Between that little tube and the tank is a check valve that screws in right at the top of the tank that keeps air from rushing backwards. Now when the compressor fills the tank each time, the switch controller opens a bleed off valve to empty the air in the filler tube to make it easier for the compressor to start next time.  The problem is that the volume of air in that tube is relatively small and when your compressor starts, it can only turn a few times before the tube is full and then the motor must work much harder and thus draw more amps to overcome the check valve to put air in the tank. Depending on the amps required, this can then trip the breaker.

Look at this next photo. See how short and small that left tube is?  The pump can only turn a few times before that left tube is pressurized – it never has a chance to build up speed and momentum in the flywheel. As a result when the pressure of the tank is reached it puts a lot of strain on the motor.

Note, the second smaller tube, which is often a flexible plastic, provides pressure to the cut off switch that automatically turns the motor off when the tank reaches a specified pressure.  We are interested in the larger tube that runs from the head (top) of the compressor pump down to the top of the tank.  It is usually much larger than the pressure switch tube.

The fix is simple – increase the air capacity between the pump and the tank!  You want the motor to be able to start and the heavy flywheel build up momentum before it encounters the pressure behind the check valve.

Option one:  Simply make a longer tube so there is more potential volume to fill

There are two options to make this softer starting. One is to just add a long length of copper tubing in between the compressor and the tank. You roll it into a coil and it kind of looks like a moonshine still and it does the job. The con is that it looks really funky. I did this with one of my early compressors and the photo below shows about 8 to 10 foot of tubing installed. I would replace whatever the original tubing was with the same size so you would do the same. You need to replace the compression fittings also and you can do the job in about 30 minutes.  Note that I used hose clamps to keep the coils from rattling.  Ugly as heck but it worked until I finally wore out the pump.  I checked the date on my photos and I ran this setup from 2010 to 2014 – it does hold up.

Option two:  Add a reservoir to really increase the volume

The second approach is a little bit more elaborate and involves putting a 1/2 to 1 gallon small air tank between the compressor and the tank. This allows the pump and motor to come up to speed before they must overcome the check valve. This works great. The only slightly annoying thing you will notice is that once the pressure is reached and the compressor cuts off, the pressure relief valve opens and the air runs out longer because there is more air in the line.

A couple of quick design considerations:

  1.  I carefully bent the aluminum using a tubing bender and tried to avoid abrupt turns.
  2. The small tank you see is a Firestone 9125 1 gallon 150 PSI tank.  The compressor filled the main tank to 135 PSI so the tank needed at least that rating to be safe.  Be sure your tank is at least rated as high as your compressor.
  3. Factor in the length of tank and if you will have enough room.  The one pictured is 12″ long.
  4. The tubing should be at least the same diameter as the original and the tank’s fittings should be adequately sized.  This is a fairly small compressor in the photo.
  5. I secured the tank to plywood and the plywood to the original compressor using the screw hanger fittings you find with conduit.  I wanted it to be relatively portable and I also wanted the wood to take up some of the vibration.
  6. I installed a T-fitting at the bottom of the tank to drain off moisture and never really found any.  I would recommend you still add it even if it just gives you an ability to bleed off air if something happens.
  7. Use quality Teflon/PTFE tape on all of your fittings to prevent leaks
  8. An optional recommendation I would urge you to do is to either use brake-line wrenches or at least quality fixed wrenches to avoid rounding over the fittings.  It is easy for an adjustable wrench to slip and round over the edge of a fitting.  You need to tighten things firmly so they do not leak or come loose.

I got by with the above for a number of years until I could afford to both get a bigger compressor and pay an electrician to run a 240 volt service into my shop.  I don’t need it now but these two approaches got me buy for almost six years.

IMPORTANT SAFETY ANNOUNCEMENT – BE SURE YOUR SYSTEM IS FULLY DRAINED AND THE COMPRESSOR IS UNPLUGGED (ENSURING THERE IS NO WAY IT CAN TURN ON) BEFORE YOU DO ANY WORK.  The pressures involved can hurt you and we do not want that.

The last safety comment – if you are not comfortable with wiring and checking things out safely – bring in an electrician. I can’t stress that enough either.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the AdNow advertisements.  EBay and Amazon you need to buy something, AdNow pays for each link you visit – no purchase needed.  Doing so will help us fund continued development of the blog.

 


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Firestone 9125 1 Gallon 2 Port Air Tank

Features: Ports: (2) 1/4″ Ports, one on each end, Dimensions: 12″ Long x 6″ Diameter, Manufactured to SAE J10 Specifications

This Firestone air tank provides a source of compressed air for an air spring system. Tank has 1-gallon capacity and (2) 1/4 in. NPT ports. Tank is enamel coated to resist corrosion, tested to be SAE J10 compliant and capable of 150 psi. Features: Provides compressed air source for an air helper spring system Allows for faster inflation of air springs Holds 1 gallon of compressed air Includes 1/4 in. NPT ports (2) Steel tank with brass fittings Resists corrosion with internal and external enamel coating Is SAE J10 compliant Operates at up to 150 psi of maximum pressure Specs: Tank dimensions: 12 in. long x 6 in. diameter Tank capacity: 1 gallon Inflation ports: 1/4 in. NPT PSI: Maximum of 150 2-Year limited warranty
List Price: $60.03 USD
New From: $45.95 USD In Stock

How to get what you want from epoxy – for me it is long life, shock resistance and strength

Leave a comment / AK Smithing / BIY, Care and Modification, Cars, Customized Blades, Fixing Stuff, Furniture, General, Gunsmithing, Tools / , , , , ,

 

Folks, I work a lot with epoxy and reply on it as a structural adhesive to both fill gaps and bond parts together.  I’ve done everything from fixing car parts, wood furniture, tools, rifle bedding, scope mount bedding, custom knife handles and much more with epoxy.  It is incredibly versatile but you need to do some planning to really get what you want out of it predictably.

In case you didn’t know it, “epoxy” is a general term for a wide range of cured polyepoxide resins glues with different physical characteristics such as how long they cure, strength, temperature resistance and so forth (click here if you want to learn more about the chemistry).   There are a ton of options out there as quality manufacturers experiment with different resin and hardener formulations.  In short, not all epoxies are the same and for people concerned with the quality of what they are building, they need to think things through.  For quite some time I’ve wanted to write down a series of tips for folks to get strong reliable results so here they are:

Buy a quality brand epoxy to begin with

What I have found over the years is that not all epoxies are created equal so spend the money and buy quality epoxy.  There can be a huge difference in how well the epoxy will last over time and/or how strong it really is.  Do not buy the bargain basement junk.  In general, if the maker lists all the physical properties then it is a well thought out and executed formula.  I have three epoxies that I use the most in order are Brownell’s AcraGlas liquid (not the gel), Locite E-120HP, JB KwikWeld and ITW Devcon Plastic Steel.  Once in a while if I need a fast cure epoxy, I will get a retail blister pack of some five minute epoxy and I’ll explain more in a moment.

Strongly consider what your application is

Epoxy comes in many formulations.  They can vary the chemistry of the resin, the hardener and the filler to behave differently.  Consider the following example characteristics:

  • Liquid, Gel/Paste or Putty/Bar — The liquid can seep into pores and fibers plus it can be spread but it can run into places you do not want.  Gels and pastes tend to stay put better but do not seep in as well.  The really thick puttys and bars are great for filling space or creating an impromptu clamp or to seal a hole but they definite don’t sink in much.
  • Temperature – you need to think both about the temperature when you are mixing and applying the epoxy as some will not set up at all if too cold.  You also need to think about the heat when in operation because many epoxies soften and lose their bond the hotter they get.   For example, you may apply epoxy to an exhaust manifold but it will blow off when it gets hot.
  • Pot life – this is how long you can still apply it before it starts to thicken.  Some folks will refer to this as working time.  You need to mix the two parts together, apply the epoxy, position and clamp the work before you run out of time.  Keep this in mind.
  • Cure time – this is how long until the epoxy reaches full strength
  • Color – you can get epoxies in different colors
  • Ratio / mixing – some are by volume or by weight.  The easy consumer stuff is usually 1:1 by volume but when you get into the more sophisticated epoxies the volumes vary or a digital scale is needed
  • Heat resistance – some epoxies resist heat better than others before they soften and “let go”
  • Shock resistance – some formulations hold up better than others before they start the break apart and “sugar”.  Sugaring refers to the powdery look epoxy gets as it breaks apart.  Brownell’s AcraGlas, Loctite E-120HP, JB KwikWeld and ITW Devcon Plastic Steel have all held up very well for me under shocks.  My go-to epoxy for most work is Acra-Glas liquid because it holds up so very well.
  • Others – there are other factors that may matter to you but the important thing is to think through your application

Go with as long of a curing time as you can for maximum strength

What many people do not know is that the faster an epoxy cures, the weaker it is.  Conversely, the longer the formulation takes to cure, the stronger it is.  All things being equal, a 24 hour curing epoxy will be stronger than 90-second, 5-minute, 30-minute and so forth epoxies.  Now there is a time and a place where speed is needed and also situations where strength is paramount.  When I make khukuri hands and other things where strength is critical, I always use a 24 hour epoxy.

Use the Proper Ratios

Be sure to carefully follow the mixing ratios.  For volume ratio work, I use 10cc or larger syringes without the needles on them to meter liquid resin and hardener.  For example, I like AcraGlas and it is 4 parts resin to 1 part hardener.  I keep two syringes separated that I re-use over and over.  With the syringe in the holding cup labeled “resin”, I use it to draw 4 cubic centimeters (CCs) of resin out and squirt it into a mixing cup.  With the hardener syringe, I meter out 1 CC of hardener into the cup.  Now you can vary that.  If you need a smaller about, meter out 2 CC of resin and 1/2CC of hardener.  The syringes really help.  If you are doing larger volumes then either use bigger syringes or disposable cups that have measurements printed on the side.  Also note how I pour from the bulk container into the smaller intermediary containers that are easy to work with plus I avoid contamination, dropping a big bottle, etc.

The Loctite E-120HP comes in a specialized dispenser tube that uses a gun and tip to do all the mixing.  It’s cool as can be for volume work where additional coloring or fillers are not needed.

For the Devcon Plastic Steel, I use my digital scale.

Here’s one thing not to do:  Some guys have heard that if they add more hardener it will cure faster.  This may be true but the resulting cured epoxy will be weaker.  Do not deviate from the manufacturer’s recommendations if you want the physical properties they report.

Mix thoroughly

Folks, I can’t stress this enough.   Mix the heck out of the two parts and combine them thoroughly.  If you are doing larger volumes, consider doing what is known as a double pour.  Pour the two parts into a first container, mix them thoroughly and then pour the combination into the middle of a second container and mix.  What a double pour does is avoid having unmixed materials that have stuck to the walls of the container come out when you are applying the epoxy.  Keep your pot life / working time in mind.

Most of the time I am using a generic 5oz plastic cup and plastic knife to do the mixing.  I buy them by the hundreds for Ronin’s Grips and they are cheap regardless.  Do not use styrofoam.

Prepare the surface

Whatever you want to bond epoxy to had better be clean and free of oils, greases, waxes, release agents and so forth.  Second, the more abraded the surface the better.  If you abrasive blast a surface not only can you double the surface area being bonded together but the irregular surface creates many opportunities for the epoxy to get “under” material to create a better grip.  If you can’t blast then at least sand the surface with 80-100 grit sand paper.

So here are two rules to bear in mind when it comes to the surface:

  1. Clean, clean, clean and wear gloves to not contaminate the surface with oil from your skin
  2. Shiny is bad.  A polished smooth surface will not give you anywhere near the bonding strength that a blasted or abraded surface will.  I blast everything that I can – metals, micarta, plastic and even wood.  It makes a world of difference – seriously.

The following is a bakelite handle from an electric griddle of my parents’.  The unit works great and has sentimental value so I cleaned it, blasted it, cut a quick cross hatch pattern to give even more grip and then cleaned it again.  It set up like a rock and we used it all Memorial Day morning to cook hundreds and hundreds of pancakes with no problem.\

Heating Epoxy

Heat can help you two ways.  First, by warming epoxy it tends to flow better.  If you need to to soak into wood or other surfaces, consider using a heat gun to blow/chase the epoxy into the wood.  Do not burn the epoxy – just warm it up.  Second, in general, warming epoxy up tends to make it cure faster.  Now there are limits and you need to either experiment or talk to the vendor before doing anything too radical.  I will often use a halogen light or other heat source to warm the surface up to 80-100F.  In chemistry, there is a formula known as the Arrhenius Equation that notes that for each additional 10 degrees Celsius added, a reaction rate doubles (click here for more info on the equation).  My experience is that you want the heat to penetrate and warm all of the epoxy and not just the surface and you also do not want to burn the epoxy.  In general, I do not exceed 100F but that is just me.  I found something that works good enough and have just stayed there.

Also pay attention to the minimum temperature requirements for curing.  Some epoxies will not do anything at all at freezing.  Some take forever to cure at 50F.  It just depends.  When in doubt, use a lamp or something to gently heat the part.

Coloring Epoxy

What many folks do not know is that you can actually color epoxy.  I have found two approaches that work.  First, use powdered tempera paint.  You can stir in a bit of black powder to get black epoxy.  Now I did this starting out and have since moved to using epoxy dyes so I am added less powder to the mix because I want to save the volume for glass fillers which we will talk about next.

Fillers

You can modify the physical strength of epoxy by adding a substrate or fillers.  For example, fiberglass is matted glass fiber that bonded together with epoxy made for that purpose.  Folks working with carbon fibers are using epoxy for bonding that together.  I add 1/32″ milled glass fibers to my epoxies to get more strength.  If I want more of a paste, I add more glass fiber and if I want it to be more of a liquid, I use less.  The exact volume of glass fiber depends on what you are trying to do.  Some vendors will give you recommendations and others will not.

Clamping / Work holding

In general, you want to apply the epoxy and then clamp everything together really well and then let it sit.   You may choose to use traditional clamps, vacuum, etc.  Bear in mind two things:

1.  Be careful that you secure the material and that it can’t shift while curing.  I can’t tell you how many times I have checked stuff and found out it moved and had to change my approach.  Figure this out before you apply the glue in case you need to make something, change your approach, etc.  Check it regularly to make sure it hasn’t shifted regardless.  Every time I think something can’t move – it does.

2.  The epoxy will run out of what you are working on.  Decide how you are going to deal with it.  Wax paper can protect your tools and table.  You can scrape the epoxy off after it has partially cured.  You can wipe things down with acetone when partially cured.  Just think it through otherwise you are going to glue stuff together really well that you do not want bonded – trust me.  It is a real headache so plan for seepage/dripping and how you will deal with it.

Patience

This is something I have gotten better at over the years – wait the recommended amount of time.  If they say 24 hours then wait 24 hours.  If you have questions about using the part sooner then ask the manufacturer.  For example, you might be able to assemble something after 10 hours but not actually put it under strain for 24 hours.  Factor in the temperature.  The colder it is then the longer it will take.  Remember what I said about the heat from lamps above.

Safety

Yeah, I had to add this.  Follow all guidance from the vendors.  The resins aren’t too bad but some of the hardeners are nasty.  Wear rubber gloves, use eye protection, work in a well ventilated area and wear a real good dust mask when sanding.  I use N99 masks now for everything.

I hope you found this general epoxy guidance helpful!

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the AdNow advertisements.  EBay and Amazon you need to buy something, AdNow pays for each link you visit – no purchase needed.  Doing so will help us fund continued development of the blog.

Here are links to some of the stuff I use:

AcraGlas at Brownells.  As a reminder, I prefer and recommend the liquid, not the gel:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas–prod1033.aspx

Loctite E-120HP [note that most sellers on Amazon charge a fortune for this so dig around at industrial supply houses such as McMaster, Zoro, MSC, etc.  Also, remember that you need the tube of glue, gun and disposable tips.  When the glue hardens in the tip, it protects the cartridge and you then replace the tip for your next work session but it does mean you need multiple tips.  I use this glue mostly for big projects like bonding together larger pieces of wood, etc.]
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797913677825

ITW Devcon Plastic Steel

JB KwikWeld – note that this is a thicker grey liquid.  I use it if I am in a rush and need an epoxy.  I’ve used it to bed rifles and repair stuff mainly.  I have not used it on knife handles.  Also, due to its grey color, you can go darker towards black but not lighter.

Now I have used a ton of their sticks to create clamps, fill voids, etc.  I typically have 2-4 sticks sitting in my supplies because when I need them, I need them.

Epoxy Dyes – there are a bunch on Amazon but I don’t know them.  In general, I use So-Strong dyes from SmoothOn when I need small amounts.  My black dye is bought by the pound in bulk containers.
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/strong/

10cc Syringes

Digital Scale – it will get filthy so buy something cheap but with good reviews.

Clamps – there are so many ways to clamp stuff together.  I use everything from woodworking vises to spring clips to C-clamps to the big heavy duty Irwin clamps that can do up to 600 pounds of pressure with one hand.

Wax paper

Plastic Cups – I’d recommend checking around.  You need to balance cost and quality.  Some cups are absurdly thin and you can’t use them for mixing.  I get mine from GFS and you can tell they have made them cheaper and cheaper over the years.  5oz is still good but 9 and 16oz cups aren’t so red hot any longer.

Plastic Knives – again, check around.  I get mine from GFS in a big box and they work just fine.

Heat gun – I have burned out a ton of them.  This DeWalt D26950 is the first one to last longer than a year.  I’d guess I’ve been using it for almost three now.

Dust Mask – I used Moldex 2310 N99 face masks now exclusively.  They hold up fairly well and aren’t hard to breath with.

Nitrile Gloves – the best deal I have found is from Harbor Freight for their 5mil gloves.  When they go on sale or you get a coupon for $5.99/box of 100 gloves, go get them.  They are thin and don’t hold up to tough use but to keep your hands clean and balancing off strength and cost, they are a pretty good deal.  Even at $7.99/box without shipping they are a pretty good deal.

 

Review: Wen 61720 Brad Nailer Works Great and is VERY Affordable!!

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Hiya folks, my hands shake due to what is known as a hereditary tremor.  When I try to do fine work it often gets even worse and I hate trying to drive fine nails/brads.  A number of years back I bought a Harbor Freight brad nailer that broke in 2016 after a few years of very light use (read that to mean the quality was very disappointing from the get go).  So, rather than play Russian Roulette with Harbor Freight, I went to Amazon and started digging on brad nailers and reading the reviews.

I came across the WEN 61720 3/4-Inch to 2-Inch 18-Gauge Brad Nailer.  It is both their best seller and with 926 reviews, it has 4.7 stars.  Folks, when you have that many reviews and that kind of score, it says something.  If a product sucks, reviewers can go back in and change the score so I figured the quality must be pretty decent.  I paid $26.33 for it in May 2016 and now it is $19.34!!  Yes, the price actually went down.  But I tell you what, I have no regrets.

The Wen uses regular 18-gauge brads.  It came in a simple plastic case with a small tube of oil and instructions.  It even had the 1/4″ air fitting installed.  I’ve used Senco, Bostitch, Porter Cable and Harbor Freight brads no problem.  I bought a few variety packs of brads but most of my nailing seems to be 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-3/8″ and 1-1/2″ with this unit.  I have a bigger 16 gauge nailer that I use for longer heavier nails.

 

To make moving the nailer around easy, I have a 1/4″ x 50′ Amflo Polyurethane air hose on it with Milton fittings.  This hose is light and very flexible.  Even in the winter it has been great – I use it to put air in my truck tires when it is so cold that my rubber hoses are stiff.  By the way, if you want air couplers that hold up over time and do not leak – go with Milton.  They beat the beat the heck out of Harbor Freight and Husky.

I tend to run the tool between 60-90PSI depending on how hard I want it to hit the nail.  If you are working with really soft pine, it can really drive it in so I run a lower pressure, usually 60 PSI, in those cases.  I will drive a test brad and look at the results to decide if I need to adjust the pressure further or not.  Most of my work is with pine but I have also done some poplar as well as a bit of oak trim.

As with just about any air tool, be sure to lubricate it with air tool oil.  I don’t run inline oilers due to needing clean air for my plastic work so I simply put in a few drops when I start using the tool for the day.  I have used all kinds of oil and just stick with name brands.  Right now, I have bottles from ATS and others sitting by various tools.  I would recommend sticking with a name brand and one that is relatively light for use in nailers vs. thicker for impact wrenches (Lucas is an example of a heavier pneumatic tool oil).  Also, unless you have an inline oiler, a squeeze bottle with a spout really helps vs. a pour top that will make a big mess.  For guys getting started, the small bottle that comes with the nailer will last you quite a while – just be sure to use it!!  Don’t run the nailer dry.

My project the other day was to resurrect and old planter from my dad.  I took the screws off and each shelf that was stapled together had become very loose.  I put a few drops of air tool oil int he Wen’s inlet fitting, selected brads that were a hair shorter than the wood I was putting together, and then drove 2-3 of the small 1-1/4″ brads into each individual slat to stabilize it.  I then reassembled the plant stand with new screws, stained it with Minwax Provincial Stain and applied 4 spray on coats of satin spar polyurethane on top.  The project turned out great.  It’s rock solid and it’s a little something from my dad that reminds me of him.

So I have driven probably at least 500 brads with this over the past year without one problem of any kind.  The reliability is a huge plus as I hate having to mess with tools to get them to work.  I have no problem recommending this Wen brad nailer to you for relatively casual use – I do not use it in production.  I’d certainly buy it again – you can’t beat the combination of quality and price.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the AdNow advertisements.  EBay and Amazon you need to buy something, AdNow pays for each link you visit – no purchase needed.  Doing so will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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WEN 61720 3/4-Inch to 2-Inch 18-Gauge Brad Nailer

Features: Fire brads from 3/4 to 2 inches in length, Operate at 60 to 100 PSI with a 1/4-inch NPT air inlet fitting, Lightweight aluminum body weighs in at 3 pounds with rubber-grip handle for maximum comfort, Hold up to 100 brads in the magazine with a quick-release to make jam clearing a breeze, Includes oil, two adjustment wrenches and a custom carrying case

Remember when your brad nailer was reliable? The WEN 18-Gauge Brad Nailer effortlessly shoots brads anywhere from 3/4 to 2 inches in size. With a lightweight 3-pound aluminum body and a comfortable rubber-grip handle, this tool is the perfect companion for any job site. Just plug in your favorite air compressor and start nailing. The WEN Brad Nailer operates at anywhere from 60 to 100 PSI with a 1/4 inch NPT air inlet fitting. The spacious magazine carries up to 100 brads while the quick-release design makes jam clearing a breeze. The kit includes oil, adjustment wrenches and a custom carrying case for convenient storage between jobs. And it wouldn’t be a WEN product if it weren’t backed by a one year warranty, a friendly customer help line and a nationwide network of skilled service technicians. The WEN 18-Gauge Brad Nailer: remember when you could get through a job without your nailer constantly jamming up? Remember WEN.
List Price: $20.44 USD
New From: $11.99 USD In Stock

Review: Chicago Pneumatic CP7200 Mini Orbital Sander is Solid!

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Well folks, I bought three Jet small dual action sanders from a closeout tool shop 4-6 years ago and have to replace the little valve on them several times each.  This year when two failed, there were no little valves to be found so I decided to go with a name brand.  I did this for two reasons – solid quality and replacement parts.  These get a ton of use in my shop.   I did some digging around and ran across the CP7200 that has a nice grip, variable throttle, integral regulator to adjust the speed and both a 2″ and 3″ hook and loop pad.

   

 

For me, the backer is really important.  I need to sand curved shapes, constantly switch grits of sandpaper and those backing pads do wear out.  I can’t tell you how many I replaced on my Jet sanders and not all of them are good quality.  I made sure this unit used a standard thread (1/4×20) so I could readily find replacement backers.   Note the little tool in the next photo, it slides into a key hole so you can lock the head and screw the backer in securely.  Many of these little sanders are this way.  I have a tool glued into a length of fuel hose to find it easier, I’ve used little philips head screw drivers, etc.  Bottom line is that you need to lock the head in place so you can thread on the backer and tighten it down.

Any air sander uses a lot of air – let’s just be up front about that.    The manual recommends 16.6 CFM @ 90PSI.  That means you’ll want to have a decent compressor and need to figure out how much you want it to run vs. you waiting.  In other words, using this with an air compressor intended for an air nailer is going to suck.  The little compressor will not be able to keep up and it’s tank is way too small.  I have a Ingersoll Rand 2340 with a 60 gallon tank and the pump can deliver 14.3CFM at 90PSI and fills the tank to 175PSI.  This that if I am running the tool wide open non-stop, I will use air faster than the compressor can refill the tank.  However, it is a big tank at an even higher pressure plus I sand and stop, sand and stop over and over.  It really does not tax my compressor at all.

Oh – one last comment about the air supply – use a 3/8″ internal diameter (ID) hose so you can get enough air to the tool.  With a 1/4″ hose you may well starve it because the air will be very restricted until it gets to the tool.  It’s like having too small of a gauge extension cord going to a power tool – you can just get so much air down that small 1/4″ diameter hose.  Quarter inch fittings are fine but do use the 3/8″ hose.  With that said, as usual, the unit did not have a 1/4″ quick connect installed so I took one out of my parts bin, installed some PTFE tape and snugged it down. As you can see, the tools weighs in at 1 pound 9.7oz.  Not too bad and the grip is nice.

  

Before you put it into production, squeeze in 2-4 drops of air tool oil.  I’ve had good luck with all the oils I have bought and just stick with a name brand such as ATS, Porter-Cable, CH, and even Husky.  Your air tool needs this to run.  If you have an in-line oiler in your air lines then you may be able to skip this step.  I filter the heck out of my air and have to manually oil my tools.  My rule of thumb is to oil them before each day of use.

So I bought the unit on May 14th, 2017, and already have probably 20 hours on it with no hitch.  Not surprisingly the head was a little stiff but everything wore in nicely.  It appears to be working like a champ so I am recommending it to others.

Note, CP backers are a fortune.  I’ve had very good luck with this brand of Chinese backing pad with my other sanders so I’m providing the eBay link.  Be very sure the thread is right (I’ve found three so far – 1/4, 5/16 and M6 so be careful) and look for the particular graphic label.  I’ve had other Chinese backers that just disintegrated with very little use.  You figure the tool can spin up to 15,000 RPM so your pad needs to be rated for that as well.  If you can find them elsewhere, great.  I scrounge around on eBay until I find them.

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TWO 2 inch Hook and Loop Replacement SANDING PADS 1/4"x 20 15,000RPM

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TWO 2 inch Hook and Loop Replacement SANDING PADS 1/4"x 20 15,000RPM

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Also, I swear by Milton air line fittings.  Harbor Freight and Husky female fittings just do not hold up.  I do have a ton of HF and Husky male fittings that I am slowly using up but only buy Milton female quick connects now and will switch to all Milton as soon as I run out of the old plugs.  I’ve been using Milton Type M female couplers for over a year and they are solid.

 

 

 


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Chicago Pneumatic CP7200 Mini Random Orbital Sander

Features: Mini pistol disc sander with 2″ (50mm) and 3″ (75mm) Roloc pad, Adjustable Power Regulator, Two Finger Progressive Throttle, Muffled Handle Exhaust, 1-Year parts and labor warranty

Maximize operator control and ergonomics, less fatigue. Mini pistol random orbital sander with 2″ (50 mm) and 3″ (75 mm) H&L pads. Job done faster and easier. Excellent for small area repair. Rubber molded pistol grip.
List Price: $114.38 USD
New From: $98.87 USD In Stock

How to remove rust from a tool with apple cider vinegar

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I live in Michigan and work in an unheated shop.  In the winter, when I use a space heater to work, condensation forms on metal surfaces and rust happens.  I try to keep my tools oiled but once in a while I miss something.  There is a real simple way to remove rust that is dirt cheap and very effective.  In fact, you may even be surprised.  Apple cider vinegar is a safe and easy way to remove rust.   Note, it may well remove finishes such as bluing so you just want to do this on bare metals.

Apple cider vinegar contains acetic acid at a low concentration.  All you need to do is let your tool, or whatever, sit in the cider while you do other work.  In general, warmer is better.  I’d shoot for 60-70F or it will take forever but I wouldn’t bother boiling the cider either. It was 62F when I fixed these needle nose pliers and it took about half an hour.

Be sure to do this outside or some place well ventilated.  If you don’t, the vapors can cause rust.  I do most of my work out in my drive way to avoid causing problems.

So, here are a decent but rusty pair of small Ace needle nose pliers with plenty of surface rust.  All I needed to start was cheap apple cider vinegar (Spartan is a store brand here) and a small plastic container.  The one caveat is that the pliers can’t have oil or grease on them so I did spray them with brake cleaner to remove any oils before the next step.  You could use whatever cleaner or solvent you like.

 

So I just submerged the tool in the vinegar.  I’ve used everything from wall paper tubs to cups to bowls and so forth.  After a while you should see foam around the metal from tiny gas bubbles coming up and this means it is working.  It may take 5-10 minutes before you see any bubbles because this is a slow reaction.  If you never see bubbles then it may mean either there is oil on the metal, the remaining acetic acid is too weak (if you are re-using vinegar over and over the acid gets used up so there is less and less of it per given volume) or it is too cold.  I would not bother doing this under 50F or it will take forever.

 

In this example, i was about 30 minutes before I pulled the pliers out.  In general, the warmer the solution the faster it will react.  It was 62F when I did these and I didn’t bother heating anything.  Look at how foamy the rust looks and the steel has turned a grey color.  The rust will come right off.  I used 0000 steel wool to remove it.  If the tool needed more time, I could dunk it back it.   In my case, the tool was definitely done.  I then hosed the tool down liberally with WD40 to remove the vinegar and avoid rusting.  If you want to pour boiling water on it you can but you need to get something on there fast to prevent rust.  In general, I just use WD40 followed by CLP or oil because the acid in the vinegar is so weak and I’ve not had a problem with rust later.  If I was using a stronger acid, then I would be worrying more about neutralizing, then rinsing, applying WD40 and then oil.

 

Here’s what it looked like after I oiled it.  After that, I just put it away – it was that easy!  I do this a few times a year at least and the process has worked just fine.

When I was done, I put the vinegar back in a separate container to use again.  If you want, you could throw it out.  It will slowly weaken with repeated use.  If I have any doubt about effectiveness, I toss the cider and use some that is fresh.

I keep this just in the garage and well away from the kitchen.  The point is that you don’t want people consuming contaminated vinegar so label it and keep it away from the kitchen, pantry, etc.

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Buy a big Neiko 10048A set of quarter inch driver bits and not worry about having the right one when you encounter something weird

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You know the quarter-inch bit really gives you amazing flexibility 4 installing or removing different types of screws, bolts and even using some tools such as Spade bits and step drills. With them you can overcome the problem of having the right type of screwdriver to install or remove specialty security screws or even things such as Torx and Allen heads.

For the most part when I am using Phillips bits I stick with name brands such as DeWalt, Irwin, Milwaukee and so forth. What I have found is that cheap bits aren’t always very rugged and round the tips over very quickly compared to name brand higher-quality bits.

For security/tamper-proof bits and specialty bits, I have this large set from Neiko.  The below set has served me well so far when I hit the “oh man, do I have a bit for that” moments when working on cars, guns and electronics:

In case you are wondering, here is what Neiko reports about their 10048A bit set:

The 100-Piece Security Bits Set Security bits set contains many of the most common tamper proof type security bit sizes, including tri-wing bits, torx bits, spanner bits, and hex bits. Security bits set contains: 1 – wing nut driver. 1 – magnetic bit holder. 1 – socket bit holder. 1 – 1/4-Inch sq. x 1/4-Inch hex x 1-Inch extension. 1 – 1/4-Inch sq. x 1/4-Inch hex x 2-Inch extension. 3 – clutch bits (No. 1, 2 and 3). 3 – torque bits (No. 6, 8 and 10). 3 – spline bits (M-5, 6 and 8). 4 – tri-wing bits (No. 1, 2, 3 and 4). 4 – square recess bits (No. 0, 1, 2 and 3). 4 – spanner bits (No. 4, 6, 8 and 10). 6 – metric hex tamper proof bits (2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 and 6). 6 – SAE hex tamper proof bits (5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64 and 5/32). 8 – Phillips bits (0, 1, 2{5} and 3). 8 – pozi drive bits (0, 1, 2{5} and 3). 9 – slotted bits (3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7 and 8). 9 – metric hex bits (1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 5.5, 6 and 8). 9 – torx bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 and 40). 9 – torx tamper proof bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 and 40). 10 – SAE hex bits (1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32 and 1/4). Set includes plastic storage / carry case.

Based on my experience, for the price it is cheap insurance and it has saved me more than once so you might want to consider a set.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.

 


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Neiko 10048A Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Set

Features: DURABILITY: bits made of high quality chrome vanadium steel for strong hardness that reduce wear-outs and insure longevity,, PRECISION BITS: precisely and automatically machined bit tips to ensure accurate size, chamfered bit ends insert smoothly into fasteners and protect both bits and fasteners from damaged edges, CORROSION RESISTANT: each bit has sandblasted finish for corrosion resistant, ORGANIZED STORAGE: set includes a sturdy plastic organizing case for secure storage and easy carrying, 100-Piece Tamper proof security type bit set includes: 8-pc Phillips: PH#0, PH#1, PH#2 x 5, PH#3; 8-pc Pozi drive: PZ#0, PZ#1, PZ#2 x 5, PZ#3; 9-pc Slotted: 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8mm; 9-pc Torx Star: T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45; 9-pc tamper proof Torx Star: T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T35, T40; 9-pc Metric Hex: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 5.5, 6, 8mm; 6-pc tamper proof Metric Hex: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6mm; 10-pc SAE Hex: 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4″; 6-pc tamper proof SAE Hex: 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32″; 4-pc Square: S0, S1, S2, S3; 4-pc Spanner: 4, 6, 8, 10; 3-pc Torq: 6, 8, 10; 4-pc Tri-Wing: 1, 2, 3, 4; 3-pc Clutch: 1, 2, 3; 3-pc Spline: 5, 6, 8mm; 1-pc Wing nut driver; 1-pc Magnetic bit holder; 1-pc 1/4″ Hex to 1/4″ Drive socket adaptor (1″ long); 1-pc 1/4″ Hex to 1/4″ Drive socket adaptor (2″ long); 1-pc 1/4″ Drive to 1/4″ Hex bit adaptor

100 pc. Security Bits Set Security bits set contains many of the most common tamper proof type security bit sizes, including tri-wing bits, torx bits, spanner bits, and hex bits. Security bits set contains: 1 – wing nut driver. 1 – magnetic bit holder. 1 – socket bit holder. 1 – 1/4″ sq. x 1/4″ hex x 1″ extension. 1 – 1/4″ sq. x 1/4″ hex x 2″ extension. 3 – clutch bits (# 1, 2 & 3). 3 – torq bits (# 6, 8 & 10). 3 – spline bits (M-5, 6 & 8). 4 – tri-wing bits (# 1, 2, 3 & 4). 4 – square recess bits (# 0, 1, 2 & 3). 4 – spanner bits (# 4, 6, 8 & 10). 6 – metric hex tamper proof bits (2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 & 6). 6 – SAE hex tamper proof bits (5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64 & 5/32). 8 – phillips bits (0, 1, 2{5} & 3). 8 – pozi drive bits (0, 1, 2{5} & 3). 9 – slotted bits (3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7 & 8). 9 – metric hex bits (1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 5.5, 6 & 8). 9 – torx bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 & 40). 9 – torx tamper proof bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 & 40). 10 – SAE hex bits (1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32 & 1/4). Set includes plastic storage / carry case.
List Price: $20.55 USD
New From: $14.99 USD In Stock

Irwin Lock-n-Load Quarter-inch bit extensions can save your bacon

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Irwin make some very nice quarter-inch drive extensions in different lengths that you can use for extending your reach of everything from screwdriver bits, socket drivers and even step drills. I have even stacked the units for getting into really bizarre locations. I have use them for everything from reaching down inside butt stocks to loosen Frozen bolts, to truck firewalls, to holding Spade bits while drilling custom holes for recoil absorbing mercury cylinders, and so forth.

They are not very expensive and are definitely something I would recommend keeping in your toolbox for those times you have to reach something that is set way back.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.

 

Blazer GB2001 micro torches are very handy

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I work a lot with plastics, paracord and webbing.  Thus, I need to melt ends, heat small tools/probes to poke holes and what have you.  I use lighters for a while but the problem was they didn’t generate very much heat. They were good for searing the end of a paracord but not quickly. Sometimes they quit it heat tools up enough to poke clean holes in webbing.

As usual I did some digging around and came across the Blazer torch as you see in the above photo. This thing is fantastic. I have used it for probably at least two years with no trouble. I bought this in 2014 and after hundreds if not thousands of clicks, the little piezoelectric spark unit is still working just fine – as is everything else.  It’s just plain reliable.

It is refilled vs standard butane cartridges. You can save a bundle by buying packages of them off of Amazon versus from the local drug store, grocery store or whatever. Surprisingly the torch does not use a ton of butane fuel at a time. I think it is because the jet is actually fairly small. You can adjust the intensity and the air:fuel ratio depending on what you’re working on. I bought a six-pack of the few will you see in the photo and I think I have only gone through one and a half cans in a couple of years.

The rubber base is removable if you don’t need it and in the next photo you can see a clear picture of the butane fill port.

So if you are looking for a very portable small torch this Blazer has worked great for me and I recommend it so I am listing it below for your reference.

The brand of butane I bought is no longer available via Amazon but I do notice they have a number of offerings that get very good review:

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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Blazer GB2001 Self-Igniting Butane Micro-Torch

Features: Rubber, diamond-shaped, grid-designed body, for safe grip, Gas-flow adjustment lever, to control flame length and width, Attachable tabletop stand, for hands-free use, Piezoelectric ignition system, requires no electrical connection, 2,500-degree F, blue-torch flame, for more precise flame tip

The GB2001, Blazer’s original butane refillable micro torch, is a time-tested, gas torch that creates a precise flame emitting from a nozzle head, allowing direct heat application to an object. It is commonly used for detailed purposes such as brazing, plumbing, soldering, jewelry making, culinary, automotive and dental and lab applications.

The GB2001 has a rubber, diamond-shaped, outer body finish, for safe grip and ease of use. It features a gas flow adjustment lever to allow for ease of flame heat and precision change. Its torch flame is adjustable from yellow to more precise and hot blue flame. The torch comes with an attachable, tabletop stand for hands-free work. It offers a long burn time, compared to some other Blazer micro torch products.

The torch houses a piezoelectric ignition system, which is based on a pressurized molecular reaction, and requires no electric connection. Piezoelectric energy occurs when the trigger is activated, releasing a small, spring-loaded internal hammer that strikes a crystal, producing a spark and resulting in gas flame ignition.

With a maximum flame temperature of 2,500 degrees F, the GB2001 has a continuous burn time of approximately 1.5 to 2.0 hours, at maximum fuel volume, and has a 26-gram gas capacity. The torch head has a 90-degree fixed angle, and its flame range is 0.5 to 1.25 inches. It has a safety component that offers manual lock of the ignition, when not in use. It measures 6.0 (l) x 3.0 (w) x 2.5 (d) inches, weighs 6.8 ounces and has a black body finish. This product is intended strictly for use in professional and industrial environments. In accordance with federal regulations, home use of this product is prohibited.

Since 1985, Blazer Products has created an array of professional and industrial tools and equipment. Located in Farmingdale, NY, the company manufactures a variety of micro torches and ultrasonic cleaners. Blazer Products is known worldwide for its original micro torch products.

The GB2001 torch operates with a standard butane canister (sold separately).Recommended to be used with triple refined or higher grade of butane gas.

List Price: $51.85 USD
New From: $51.85 USD In Stock

Step Drills Can Simplify the Drilling of Clean Holes in Sheet Metal and Relatively Thin Stock

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One type of drill I use a lot are step drills.  They are best thing since sliced bread for cutting circular holes in sheet metal and relatively thin stock where the the thickness of the material is less than the height of the “step” in the drill.  Unlike a normal twist drill, the step drills will not thread onto sheet metal and make a mess.  You get a nice hole on one side and if you can reach the back side, you can come at it from that direction and remove burrs very easily.

I keep a variety of step drills including some odd-ball drills that are very similar but stepless that I mainly for opening up some odd non-critical sized hole.

I also have several lengths of Irwin extensions that I use for holding step bits, spade bits, screw-drivers and just about anything else with the common 1/4″ interface.  I’ve even plugged one extension into another to reach really remove parts and can’t even guess how many times these extensions have saved my bacon.

I’d recommend that you keep all of these handy. If you can, buy a known good brand as it will probably last longer.  My problem with imported cheap bits in the past is that they dull fast.  Irwin, Dewalt, Klein, Milwaukee and other name brands might be something you want to invest in if you plan to use them a lot.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something from one of the Amazon links, or use one of the links to go to Amazon and buy something completely different — as long as you use one our links to go and buy something from Amazon, it helps us out. For each item you purchase, we get a small bit of ad revenue from Amazon to fund the blog. The same is true for eBay as well — we don’t get anything unless you buy something.


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DEWALT DWA1790IR 3-Piece IMPACT READY Step Drill Bit Set

Features: Titanium two flute spiral design provides longer life and better chip removal, Split point tip increases speed, Laser engraved numbers increases step visibility, Optimized for impact driver usage

DWA1790IR-main

The DWA1790IR three-bit set with stepped measurements (view larger).

With this three-piece set of impact-ready step drill bits from DEWALT (model DWA1790IR), you’ll get the job done more efficiently with less reactionary torque — in less time. They’re optimized for your DEWALT impact driver with its 1/4-inch hex shank, but they also deliver strong performance every time in rotary drill drivers.

The advanced double spiral flute design outperforms straight flute design and extends the life of the bit. The split point tip increases speed, and they also include laser-engraved measurements to increase step visibility. This package includes a 1/8- to 1/2-inch bit, a 3/16- to 1/2-inch bit, and a 3/16- to 7/8-inch bit.

Among the wide variety of applications these bits can be used for, they’re ideal for drilling into cans, panels, and junction boxes for electricians; enlarging holes in ducts for HVAC applications; and enlarging door hardware for carpenters.

What’s in the Box

Three step drill bits (model DWA1790IR)

About DEWALT

DEWALT is a leading manufacturer of industrial power tools and accessories, including corded and cordless drills, saws, hammers, grinders, routers, planers, plate joiners, sanders, lasers, generators, compressors, nailers, saw blades, metal and masonry drill bits, abrasives, screw driving accessories and more. DEWALT tools can be found nationally and internationally wherever tools are sold. With more than 1,000 factory-owned and authorized locations, DEWALT has one of the most extensive service and repair networks in North America.

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DWA1790IR 3-Piece Impact Ready Step Drill Bit Set

At a Glance
  • Optimized for impact driver usage; works with rotary drills
  • Laser engraved numbers increases step visibility
  • Split point tip increases speed
  • 1/4-inch hex shank
List Price: $51.88 USD
New From: $51.88 USD In Stock

How to read engine codes with your smart phone – welcome to the new age

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Guys, I remember tuning a car by ear with a timing light, vacuum gauge, feeling things out literally with my hands and so forth.  Boy has the world changed.  As the vehicles got smarter and smarter, someone decided to add On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the early 1980s first with the idiot “check engine” light and then it got more and more involved.  Modern cars and trucks in the US have an OBD II jack where you can plug in, read and clear fault codes, access real-time information and so forth.

Back in 2013 I saved my pennies and finally bought my own Autel Autolink Scanner for $102.  Wow – I thought was so cool.  I used it whenever fault codes popped up to figure out what it was but I had to lug the thing around and it wasn’t something you could readily update, etc.

A friend of mine came over about a year back to check on one of our cars.  He pulled a little black rectangle out of his jacket, plugged it into the car and then started looking at his phone.  I asked him what he was doing and he showed me that he was accessing the codes.  I was floored.

In June 2016, I decided to go the phone route to have a current scanner and a better interface.  After digging, I bought a BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII adapter for Android phones (about $22)  and I got the Torque software for my Samsung Note Android phone off the Google Play store for free.  What a difference.  The BAFX adapter was easy to carry around, I could customize the gauges I was looking at, and so forth.  For me this combo rocks.  It does all I need.  I really like it being cordless – you can walk around and so forth and still see the data.

By the way, installation is simple.  You follow the instructions to pair the scanner to your phone just like you would any other Bluetooth Device.  I downloaded Torque from the Google Play store on my phone in a matter of minutes and it is pretty much good to go.  You can create profiles for different vehicles in the software, change gauges you want to watch, their style, how they are grouped and so forth.

The following are screenshots from my phone plus you can see the little adapter that is a bit smaller than a cigarette box.

   

For example, my 2002 Camry’s check engine light is on and I could use the BAFX adapter and Torque to find out what the code was and then search using Google to decide what to do:

   

I really like the combination and recommend them.  In general, I am amazed by all the functionality that is showing up where the smart phone provides the brain and display thus dropping costs dramatically.  My recent GiraffeCam endoscope is another example.

By the way, I am so happy with this combination of BAFX scanner and Torque software that I sold my Autel scanner on eBay.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

Features: ONLY the BAFX Products® OBD Reader REALLY works on ALL vehicles located in the USA 1996 & Newer! Many cheaper versions have trouble with the J1850 & CAN protocols even though they SAY they work. Many people buy cheap first but always end up buying ours, because ours works!, Super easy setup! Connects to your Android phone/tablet or Windows PC using a 3rd party app. App cost ranges from $0-$5 & up to $60 for specialty apps depending on your needs. Contact BAFX Products® for recommended apps., Read & Clear diagnostic trouble codes for the check engine light, both generic & manufacturer specific codes. Get REAL-TIME sensor information right on your phone! EOT, RPM, Speed, DPF Temp, Balance Rates, O2 Readings & so MUCH more! Even pre-test for emissions testing! Get your 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 & 1 Mile times right on your phone!, Works with Bluetooth enabled Android devices & Windows PC’s. Arrives with DEMO software for PC’s. NOT FOR USE WITH iOS DEVICES! If you are NOT located in the USA, contact BAFX Products® FIRST to ensure compatibility in your country!, 2 (TWO!) Year Manufacturer Warranty against defects*! Problems beyond 2 Years? Please, still contact us!

BEWARE OF IMITATORS!

The BAFX Products® Scan Tool works on ALL vehicles located in the USA that are model year 1996 or newer! We GUARANTEE IT!

Many tools CLAIM to work on all vehicles but have problems with the J1850 & CAN protocols. Ours doesn’t. Ours works on ALL protocols AND we actually mean it! People try the cheaper ones but then buy ours, because ours works.

The BAFX Products® adapter will: Last longer, have more stable connections, give faster data rates & work smoother on ALL vehicles compared to our competitors. We also provide TOP NOTCH support. Have a question? Problem? Let us know, we WILL answer or fix the problem.

NOT COMPATIBLE WITH iOS DEVICES!

To use the OBD reader you will need to install a 3rd party app from the Android Store or online. Apps range in price from $0 – $5 with specialty apps costing up to $60. PC programs range from $0 – $50. Contact BAFX Products® for a list of apps

When used with proper software, you can:
•Read OBDII Check Engine Light Codes
•Reset the CEL
•Pull MANY other sensor readings
•Graph sensor readings
•PREPARE FOR EMISSIONS TESTING
•And SO much more!
•2 (Yes, TWO!) Year Warranty!* Problems beyond 2 years? Still, contact us!

Examples of sensor readings: O2 Readings, EOT, EGT, Throttle, Boost, Speed, Fuel Trim, DPF Temp, Balance Rates & MUCH more!

*NOTE! Not all vehicles support reading of ALL sensors. Readings supported depend on what’s installed on the OBDII system by the manufacturer. Generally, newer vehicles will give more readings.

IF NOT LOCATED IN THE USA: CONTACT US before ordering to ensure it will work in your country! We ONLY guarantee it will work on vehicles located in certain countries!

*Warranty ONLY valid if purchased from BAFX Products or authorized dealer

List Price: $21.99 USD
New From: $21.99 USD In Stock