Category Archives: Tools

Swiss+Tech ST50022 6-in-1 and ST53100 19-1 Micro Pocket Multitools are Handy for Travel

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For my job, I wind up travelling and I can’t tell you how many times I have had luggage parts come loose or need to fix a zipper.  The beauty of these Swiss+Tech tools is that they are tiny and light.  They will never win a brute strength contest but when you need a simple screw driver or a small strong set of pliers/tweezers, or wire cutter these things kick butt.  I think it is rather unfair when people compare them to full sized tools – they were never designed for that.  Look at the pivot pin – it’s a tubular rivet!

I’ve had both tools for years.  I just bought this new set off Amazon to put in luggage.  The 6-in-1 goes in my carry on bag and then 19-1 goes in my check-in.  If you just want to buy one, get the 6-in-1.  That can get just about any small job done and are cheap off Amazon.

By the way, you can fix a ton of problems when travelling with the 6-in-1, a roll of electrical tape and a few zip ties of varying lengths.  For example, if a zipper pull comes off, insert a small zip tie, run 4-6 layers of electrical tape around it and then cut off the excess zip tie.  Done.

Another plus is that they are so cheap you don’t feel bad if they get lost.  I gave my wife one as a stocking stuffer and that went over like a lead brick – don’t do that 🙂

So, can you fix a car with these? No.  Fix stuff better than fingers alone when travelling?  Absolutely.

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The Gerber Suspension Multi Tool [22-01471] is Pretty Nice!

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Guys, I like multi tools when I travel or go camping.  I have torn up a boat load of cheap imported ones and a Stanley just by trying to use the pliers to grab on to something really tight.  I have never had a problem with a Gerber or Leatherman tool – let me say that up front.

At any rate, I wanted to find something compact and with locking blades.  I have a Gerber multi tool that I have used a ton since 1998 and my only issue is the lack of a lock on the blade.  You don’t really think about the lock until the first time you are really yanking on something to cut it and that blade starts to close!  It’s been my goto tool for years and is showing its age.

At any rate, I did some digging around and decided on the Gerber Suspension.  All the tools I worried about have a positive locking system and the handles fit your hand pretty well.  It has 4.6/5 stars with 1,493 reviews on Amazon.  That is a pretty darned good score!  I get the warm fuzzies when I see scores like that and the unit was only $23.49 shipped with Amazon Prime.

Here are features and my thoughts

  • Needle-nose Pliers – Important
  • Wire Cutter/Stripper – Important
  • Straight Blade – Important
  • Serrated Blade – Maybe – they work great on rope
  • Phillips Screwdriver – Important
  • Large and Medium Flathead Screwdrivers – Important
  • Scissors – I have no idea if I will ever really use this but it is an interesting design and seems solid
  • Bottle Opener –  Important – this is an Emergency Beer Access Tool
  • Can Opener – Important – I can’t tell you how many cans I have opened over the years thanks to the can opener in my old Gerber]
  • Saw – not that important
  • Awl – not that important
  • Lanyard Ring – not that important

Open, it is 6.5″ long and closed it is 4″ long plus it has a little belt / storage pouch.

Here are photos of mine:

So far, everything seems solid.  I tested the locking mechanisms and they work.  I took a steel rod and grabbed on with the pliers as hard as I could and nothing bent.  I’ve had tools in the past where if I did that the handles would crumple.  Literally, I put a bar in a vise, grab hold with the pliers and then try and turn the bar which is pretty much impossible.  The Suspension held up just fine.

I’m going to be using this more over the summer and we’ll see how it holds up.

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Gerber Suspension Multi-Plier [22-01471]

Features: Suspension Multi-Plier multitool with 12 integrated components, Saf.T.Plus component locking system guarantees safety, Lightweight open-frame stainless steel handle, Includes a ballistic nylon sheath, Weighs 9.6 oz; Closed Length: 4 inches; limited lifetime warranty

Tough, reliable, and easy to handle, the Gerber Suspension Multi-Plier is engineered to tackle jobs in just about every situation you can imagine. Featuring a sleek butterfly design, durable stainless steel construction, and Gerber’s patented Saf.T.Plus component locking system, this affordable multitool packs 11 convenient tools that will quickly prove indispensable.

The Gerber Suspension Multi-Tool Features:

  • Needle-nose Pliers
  • Wire Cutter/Stripper
  • Straight Blade
  • Serrated Blade
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Large and Medium Flathead Screwdrivers
  • Scissors
  • Bottle Opener
  • Can Opener
  • Saw
  • Awl
  • Lanyard Ring

Gerber’s patented Saf.T.PlusTM lock system provides safety and convenience. View larger.

The Suspension offers a unique design based on Portland, Oregon’s suspension bridges that’s up to tough tasks. View larger.

You can purchase seperate tool kits for even broader functionality. View larger.

Strong, Innovative Open-Frame Design
Strong yet lightweight, the Suspension Multi-Plier offers the durability of stainless steel construction along with an aluminum butterfly-opening handle that’s inspired by the precision engineering of Portland, Oregon’s famous suspension bridges. Like those time-tested iron bridges, this tool is designed to deliver the down-and-dirty performance that you demand from your tools.

But performance isn’t everything. The tool’s unique suspension-style handle sits comfortably in your hand, giving it a well-balanced feel. Compact enough to satisfy the most demanding minimalists, and cool enough for any gadget guy or girl, the Suspension Multi-Plier offers a sleek, streamlined design that will look as good as it performs.

Reliable, Easy-to-Access Tools Keep You Prepared
Whether you’re at home, on the road, at a muddy jobsite, or deep in the backcountry, you can’t predict what you’ll be up against. The Suspension Multi-Plier is fitted with 11 tools that will give you the edge in virtually any situation.

Starting with the knives, you have the choice of a straight blade for fine-tune cutting, or a serrated blade that’s great for cutting rope.

This tool also includes a Phillips screwdriver along with large and medium flathead screwdrivers, as well as a dedicated wire cutter/stripper. Unlike bulky squared-off pliers on many multitools, the needle-nose pliers at the center of this tool are designed for the tightest of spots. And they’re spring loaded so that they open when you release your grip, which makes working with them easy, pinch free and intuitive.

Other useful features hidden away in the handle of the Suspension include scissors, a bottle opener, a can opener, saw, an awl, and a lanyard ring.

Safe, User-Friendly Design
If you’ve ever had a folding knife close on your hand in the middle of making a tough cut, you’ll have a special appreciation for Gerber’s Saf.T.Plus system, which locks components securely in place for worry-free use.

Even with this lock system, deployment is quick and easy. Gerber’s user-friendly design makes it simple to access any tool that you need–just slide the lock-release button back and get set for the task at hand.

This Gerber multitool also comes with a nylon ballistic-cloth sheath so that you can keep it protected from the elements when it’s not in use.

If you’re looking for even more versatility, Gerber offers an add-on tool kit that contains an adapter, three different sizes of flathead bits, cross point bits, and hex head bits for increased functionality. Also available are several a convenient sharpening systems that can help you keep the blades on your multitool in top condition without the hassle of using a whetstone or a round file, including the DF6 Compact Sharpener and the DF8 Sharpener, which uses unique diamond fingers to acheive a perfect 30 degree angle every time you sharpen a blade (tool kit and sharpeners not included).

Gerber’s History of Ingenuity
Savvy. Moxie. Craftsmanship. Attention to detail. These are just a few of the company traits that contributed to Gerber’s emergence as a world leader in outdoor gear. Joseph Gerber started Portland, Oregon’s Gerber Advertising back in 1910, and one Christmas, he hired a local knife-maker to craft 25 sets of kitchen cutlery as client gifts. The knives were so popular, Mr. Gerber ultimately left his agency to launch Gerber Legendary Blades in 1939.

For more than half a century, Gerber Legendary Blades has been helping people fend for themselves. Gerber designs popular, dependable tools and knives along with other outdoor gear that helps users accomplish whatever tasks they may be faced with, promoting the lost art of self-reliance.

What’s in the Box
Suspension multitool and nylon sheath.

List Price: $26.84 USD
New From: $24.49 USD In Stock

Review: TEKTON Gunsmithing 18-Piece Punch Set #66564 is Pretty Nice

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I have a lot of fun experimenting with stuff.  I tend to need punches fairly regularly and what I had was a mishmash of sizes and models from Craftsman, Astro, Harbor Freight and who knows what else.  I was working the other day and had stuff laying everywhere and thought to myself that there must be a more organized approach plus some of my punches were looking pretty abused (I’ve bent the crap out of some of the real small ones trying to start pins) so I started digging on Amazon.  Interestingly enough, TEKTON makes an 18-piece gunsmith punch set that gets very good reviews on Amazon – 4.6 stars with 181 reviews is pretty remarkable.  So, I ordered it and was pleasantly surprised at what arrived – it was very well done.

 

The set was well packed and includes a walnut bench block that is laser etched with what punch is to go in what hole.  Now for a slob like me, that is a God-send.

The punches have a nice heft, feel good, are well finished and have worked fine so far.  TEKTON claims they are high carbon heat treated steel and seem to be holding up just fine.

The set includes the following punches:

  • (7) pin punches: 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4 inch
  • (8) roll pin punches: 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4 inch
  • (2) solid punches: 1/16, 3/32 inch
  • (1) center punch: 5/16 inch

I have it sitting to the side of my bench and now I can move the whole set right to where I need it vs. digging for whatever punch I need.

So if you are shopping for punches with a stand, take a look at this set.  It is a great deal when you look at the cost relative to the quality you get.

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Tired of tripping your circuit breaker when your air compressor refills? You can easily fix that!

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I tell you what it is really hard to get by without a compressor but it can also be but it can also be a real headache if the circuit breaker regularly, or even unpredictably, trips when the compressor tries to top off the tank.  There a couple of really easy modifications we can do to the compressor but before that, let’s step through a couple of things first just in case there is another issue at hand:

Safety Stuff

I actually spent more time trying to think about the what-ifs than actually writing the two options to make your compressor start softer but I do want you to approach this safely.  I am assuming you are handy with a basic understanding of electrical wiring and compressed air to do this work.

First, you should be using a properly sized circuit or at least one that is very close.  If your compressor needs far more than what your circuit is sized for, say 30 amps and you only have a 15 amp circuit, then the fix I am going to tell you may not help.  It  does often help when you have a circuit that is very close to the required amps but when there is a heavy draw, it exceeds the circuits capacity so the breaker trips.  My experience is that consumer air compressors list a low draw number like 15 amps and can draw more than that under peak load.  So, for example, if you have a 15 amp circuit and a compressor that says it needs 15 amps – you may be having some challenges that this modification might help with.

In terms of properly sizing a circuit, engineers and others can give you rules of thumb such as doubling the circuit capacity to allow for spikes in demand or to allow 6 amps per 1 HP for 1 phase or 1.25 amps per HP for 3 phase.  Doing this means running new wire and installing new breakers.  DO NOT JUST PUT IN A BIGGER BREAKER!  The breaker is protecting the wiring from over heating and catching fire.  Each thickness, or gauge, of wire has a limit to the number of amps it can carry.  Never put a higher capacity breaker on a smaller cable – you are asking for trouble in the worst way.

Second, plug the compressor directly into the wall.  An extension cord will likely introduce too much resistance and cause the breaker to trip so do not use an extension cord (assuming your compressor is not an air nailer or air brush model – they draw so little that they can use extension cords).

Third, I have only encountered this a few times over the years but breakers can wear out over time.  If you investigate and it seems that you should have enough capacity and can’t figure out why your breaker is tripping, then try installing a new breaker and see if that helps.  Again, install the right size and don’t put the wiring at risk of fire.  If in doubt, bring in an electrician to straighten things out.

Fourth, if you look at your outlets and/or wiring and they look burned, there is any trace of soot or a burned smell stop and get an electrician to inspect the line.  It may sound funny but I have seen lines fail over the years for a ton of unexpected reasons.

Now, on to making a compressor softer starting

So, with those things said, let’s say you need to make your compressor work better with the circuit you have for whatever reason, let’s talk about what some folks call a “soft start” modification.  It’s called this because it makes it easier for the pump and compressor to start and come up to speed before a heavy load is introduced.

The way a compressor works is that a motor has to turn the pump and send air through a filler tube into the main tank. Between that little tube and the tank is a check valve that screws in right at the top of the tank that keeps air from rushing backwards. Now when the compressor fills the tank each time, the switch controller opens a bleed off valve to empty the air in the filler tube to make it easier for the compressor to start next time.  The problem is that the volume of air in that tube is relatively small and when your compressor starts, it can only turn a few times before the tube is full and then the motor must work much harder and thus draw more amps to overcome the check valve to put air in the tank. Depending on the amps required, this can then trip the breaker.

Look at this next photo. See how short and small that left tube is?  The pump can only turn a few times before that left tube is pressurized – it never has a chance to build up speed and momentum in the flywheel. As a result when the pressure of the tank is reached it puts a lot of strain on the motor.

Note, the second smaller tube, which is often a flexible plastic, provides pressure to the cut off switch that automatically turns the motor off when the tank reaches a specified pressure.  We are interested in the larger tube that runs from the head (top) of the compressor pump down to the top of the tank.  It is usually much larger than the pressure switch tube.

The fix is simple – increase the air capacity between the pump and the tank!  You want the motor to be able to start and the heavy flywheel build up momentum before it encounters the pressure behind the check valve.

Option one:  Simply make a longer tube so there is more potential volume to fill

There are two options to make this softer starting. One is to just add a long length of copper tubing in between the compressor and the tank. You roll it into a coil and it kind of looks like a moonshine still and it does the job. The con is that it looks really funky. I did this with one of my early compressors and the photo below shows about 8 to 10 foot of tubing installed. I would replace whatever the original tubing was with the same size so you would do the same. You need to replace the compression fittings also and you can do the job in about 30 minutes.  Note that I used hose clamps to keep the coils from rattling.  Ugly as heck but it worked until I finally wore out the pump.  I checked the date on my photos and I ran this setup from 2010 to 2014 – it does hold up.

Option two:  Add a reservoir to really increase the volume

The second approach is a little bit more elaborate and involves putting a 1/2 to 1 gallon small air tank between the compressor and the tank. This allows the pump and motor to come up to speed before they must overcome the check valve. This works great. The only slightly annoying thing you will notice is that once the pressure is reached and the compressor cuts off, the pressure relief valve opens and the air runs out longer because there is more air in the line.

A couple of quick design considerations:

  1.  I carefully bent the aluminum using a tubing bender and tried to avoid abrupt turns.
  2. The small tank you see is a Firestone 9125 1 gallon 150 PSI tank.  The compressor filled the main tank to 135 PSI so the tank needed at least that rating to be safe.  Be sure your tank is at least rated as high as your compressor.
  3. Factor in the length of tank and if you will have enough room.  The one pictured is 12″ long.
  4. The tubing should be at least the same diameter as the original and the tank’s fittings should be adequately sized.  This is a fairly small compressor in the photo.
  5. I secured the tank to plywood and the plywood to the original compressor using the screw hanger fittings you find with conduit.  I wanted it to be relatively portable and I also wanted the wood to take up some of the vibration.
  6. I installed a T-fitting at the bottom of the tank to drain off moisture and never really found any.  I would recommend you still add it even if it just gives you an ability to bleed off air if something happens.
  7. Use quality Teflon/PTFE tape on all of your fittings to prevent leaks
  8. An optional recommendation I would urge you to do is to either use brake-line wrenches or at least quality fixed wrenches to avoid rounding over the fittings.  It is easy for an adjustable wrench to slip and round over the edge of a fitting.  You need to tighten things firmly so they do not leak or come loose.

I got by with the above for a number of years until I could afford to both get a bigger compressor and pay an electrician to run a 240 volt service into my shop.  I don’t need it now but these two approaches got me buy for almost six years.

IMPORTANT SAFETY ANNOUNCEMENT – BE SURE YOUR SYSTEM IS FULLY DRAINED AND THE COMPRESSOR IS UNPLUGGED (ENSURING THERE IS NO WAY IT CAN TURN ON) BEFORE YOU DO ANY WORK.  The pressures involved can hurt you and we do not want that.

The last safety comment – if you are not comfortable with wiring and checking things out safely – bring in an electrician. I can’t stress that enough either.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the AdNow advertisements.  EBay and Amazon you need to buy something, AdNow pays for each link you visit – no purchase needed.  Doing so will help us fund continued development of the blog.

 


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Firestone 9125 1 Gallon 2 Port Air Tank

Features: Ports: (2) 1/4″ Ports, one on each end, Dimensions: 12″ Long x 6″ Diameter, Manufactured to SAE J10 Specifications

This Firestone air tank provides a source of compressed air for an air spring system. Tank has 1-gallon capacity and (2) 1/4 in. NPT ports. Tank is enamel coated to resist corrosion, tested to be SAE J10 compliant and capable of 150 psi. Features: Provides compressed air source for an air helper spring system Allows for faster inflation of air springs Holds 1 gallon of compressed air Includes 1/4 in. NPT ports (2) Steel tank with brass fittings Resists corrosion with internal and external enamel coating Is SAE J10 compliant Operates at up to 150 psi of maximum pressure Specs: Tank dimensions: 12 in. long x 6 in. diameter Tank capacity: 1 gallon Inflation ports: 1/4 in. NPT PSI: Maximum of 150 2-Year limited warranty
List Price: $58.98 USD
New From: $53.04 USD In Stock

How to get what you want from epoxy – for me it is long life, shock resistance and strength

Leave a comment / AK Smithing / BIY, Care and Modification, Cars, Customized Blades, Fixing Stuff, Furniture, General, Gunsmithing, Tools / , , , , ,

 

Folks, I work a lot with epoxy and reply on it as a structural adhesive to both fill gaps and bond parts together.  I’ve done everything from fixing car parts, wood furniture, tools, rifle bedding, scope mount bedding, custom knife handles and much more with epoxy.  It is incredibly versatile but you need to do some planning to really get what you want out of it predictably.

In case you didn’t know it, “epoxy” is a general term for a wide range of cured polyepoxide resins glues with different physical characteristics such as how long they cure, strength, temperature resistance and so forth (click here if you want to learn more about the chemistry).   There are a ton of options out there as quality manufacturers experiment with different resin and hardener formulations.  In short, not all epoxies are the same and for people concerned with the quality of what they are building, they need to think things through.  For quite some time I’ve wanted to write down a series of tips for folks to get strong reliable results so here they are:

Buy a quality brand epoxy to begin with

What I have found over the years is that not all epoxies are created equal so spend the money and buy quality epoxy.  There can be a huge difference in how well the epoxy will last over time and/or how strong it really is.  Do not buy the bargain basement junk.  In general, if the maker lists all the physical properties then it is a well thought out and executed formula.  I have three epoxies that I use the most in order are Brownell’s AcraGlas liquid (not the gel), Locite E-120HP, JB KwikWeld and ITW Devcon Plastic Steel.  Once in a while if I need a fast cure epoxy, I will get a retail blister pack of some five minute epoxy and I’ll explain more in a moment.

Strongly consider what your application is

Epoxy comes in many formulations.  They can vary the chemistry of the resin, the hardener and the filler to behave differently.  Consider the following example characteristics:

  • Liquid, Gel/Paste or Putty/Bar — The liquid can seep into pores and fibers plus it can be spread but it can run into places you do not want.  Gels and pastes tend to stay put better but do not seep in as well.  The really thick puttys and bars are great for filling space or creating an impromptu clamp or to seal a hole but they definite don’t sink in much.
  • Temperature – you need to think both about the temperature when you are mixing and applying the epoxy as some will not set up at all if too cold.  You also need to think about the heat when in operation because many epoxies soften and lose their bond the hotter they get.   For example, you may apply epoxy to an exhaust manifold but it will blow off when it gets hot.
  • Pot life – this is how long you can still apply it before it starts to thicken.  Some folks will refer to this as working time.  You need to mix the two parts together, apply the epoxy, position and clamp the work before you run out of time.  Keep this in mind.
  • Cure time – this is how long until the epoxy reaches full strength
  • Color – you can get epoxies in different colors
  • Ratio / mixing – some are by volume or by weight.  The easy consumer stuff is usually 1:1 by volume but when you get into the more sophisticated epoxies the volumes vary or a digital scale is needed
  • Heat resistance – some epoxies resist heat better than others before they soften and “let go”
  • Shock resistance – some formulations hold up better than others before they start the break apart and “sugar”.  Sugaring refers to the powdery look epoxy gets as it breaks apart.  Brownell’s AcraGlas, Loctite E-120HP, JB KwikWeld and ITW Devcon Plastic Steel have all held up very well for me under shocks.  My go-to epoxy for most work is Acra-Glas liquid because it holds up so very well.
  • Others – there are other factors that may matter to you but the important thing is to think through your application

Go with as long of a curing time as you can for maximum strength

What many people do not know is that the faster an epoxy cures, the weaker it is.  Conversely, the longer the formulation takes to cure, the stronger it is.  All things being equal, a 24 hour curing epoxy will be stronger than 90-second, 5-minute, 30-minute and so forth epoxies.  Now there is a time and a place where speed is needed and also situations where strength is paramount.  When I make khukuri hands and other things where strength is critical, I always use a 24 hour epoxy.

Use the Proper Ratios

Be sure to carefully follow the mixing ratios.  For volume ratio work, I use 10cc or larger syringes without the needles on them to meter liquid resin and hardener.  For example, I like AcraGlas and it is 4 parts resin to 1 part hardener.  I keep two syringes separated that I re-use over and over.  With the syringe in the holding cup labeled “resin”, I use it to draw 4 cubic centimeters (CCs) of resin out and squirt it into a mixing cup.  With the hardener syringe, I meter out 1 CC of hardener into the cup.  Now you can vary that.  If you need a smaller about, meter out 2 CC of resin and 1/2CC of hardener.  The syringes really help.  If you are doing larger volumes then either use bigger syringes or disposable cups that have measurements printed on the side.  Also note how I pour from the bulk container into the smaller intermediary containers that are easy to work with plus I avoid contamination, dropping a big bottle, etc.

The Loctite E-120HP comes in a specialized dispenser tube that uses a gun and tip to do all the mixing.  It’s cool as can be for volume work where additional coloring or fillers are not needed.

For the Devcon Plastic Steel, I use my digital scale.

Here’s one thing not to do:  Some guys have heard that if they add more hardener it will cure faster.  This may be true but the resulting cured epoxy will be weaker.  Do not deviate from the manufacturer’s recommendations if you want the physical properties they report.

Mix thoroughly

Folks, I can’t stress this enough.   Mix the heck out of the two parts and combine them thoroughly.  If you are doing larger volumes, consider doing what is known as a double pour.  Pour the two parts into a first container, mix them thoroughly and then pour the combination into the middle of a second container and mix.  What a double pour does is avoid having unmixed materials that have stuck to the walls of the container come out when you are applying the epoxy.  Keep your pot life / working time in mind.

Most of the time I am using a generic 5oz plastic cup and plastic knife to do the mixing.  I buy them by the hundreds for Ronin’s Grips and they are cheap regardless.  Do not use styrofoam.

Prepare the surface

Whatever you want to bond epoxy to had better be clean and free of oils, greases, waxes, release agents and so forth.  Second, the more abraded the surface the better.  If you abrasive blast a surface not only can you double the surface area being bonded together but the irregular surface creates many opportunities for the epoxy to get “under” material to create a better grip.  If you can’t blast then at least sand the surface with 80-100 grit sand paper.

So here are two rules to bear in mind when it comes to the surface:

  1. Clean, clean, clean and wear gloves to not contaminate the surface with oil from your skin
  2. Shiny is bad.  A polished smooth surface will not give you anywhere near the bonding strength that a blasted or abraded surface will.  I blast everything that I can – metals, micarta, plastic and even wood.  It makes a world of difference – seriously.

The following is a bakelite handle from an electric griddle of my parents’.  The unit works great and has sentimental value so I cleaned it, blasted it, cut a quick cross hatch pattern to give even more grip and then cleaned it again.  It set up like a rock and we used it all Memorial Day morning to cook hundreds and hundreds of pancakes with no problem.\

Heating Epoxy

Heat can help you two ways.  First, by warming epoxy it tends to flow better.  If you need to to soak into wood or other surfaces, consider using a heat gun to blow/chase the epoxy into the wood.  Do not burn the epoxy – just warm it up.  Second, in general, warming epoxy up tends to make it cure faster.  Now there are limits and you need to either experiment or talk to the vendor before doing anything too radical.  I will often use a halogen light or other heat source to warm the surface up to 80-100F.  In chemistry, there is a formula known as the Arrhenius Equation that notes that for each additional 10 degrees Celsius added, a reaction rate doubles (click here for more info on the equation).  My experience is that you want the heat to penetrate and warm all of the epoxy and not just the surface and you also do not want to burn the epoxy.  In general, I do not exceed 100F but that is just me.  I found something that works good enough and have just stayed there.

Also pay attention to the minimum temperature requirements for curing.  Some epoxies will not do anything at all at freezing.  Some take forever to cure at 50F.  It just depends.  When in doubt, use a lamp or something to gently heat the part.

Coloring Epoxy

What many folks do not know is that you can actually color epoxy.  I have found two approaches that work.  First, use powdered tempera paint.  You can stir in a bit of black powder to get black epoxy.  Now I did this starting out and have since moved to using epoxy dyes so I am added less powder to the mix because I want to save the volume for glass fillers which we will talk about next.

Fillers

You can modify the physical strength of epoxy by adding a substrate or fillers.  For example, fiberglass is matted glass fiber that bonded together with epoxy made for that purpose.  Folks working with carbon fibers are using epoxy for bonding that together.  I add 1/32″ milled glass fibers to my epoxies to get more strength.  If I want more of a paste, I add more glass fiber and if I want it to be more of a liquid, I use less.  The exact volume of glass fiber depends on what you are trying to do.  Some vendors will give you recommendations and others will not.

Clamping / Work holding

In general, you want to apply the epoxy and then clamp everything together really well and then let it sit.   You may choose to use traditional clamps, vacuum, etc.  Bear in mind two things:

1.  Be careful that you secure the material and that it can’t shift while curing.  I can’t tell you how many times I have checked stuff and found out it moved and had to change my approach.  Figure this out before you apply the glue in case you need to make something, change your approach, etc.  Check it regularly to make sure it hasn’t shifted regardless.  Every time I think something can’t move – it does.

2.  The epoxy will run out of what you are working on.  Decide how you are going to deal with it.  Wax paper can protect your tools and table.  You can scrape the epoxy off after it has partially cured.  You can wipe things down with acetone when partially cured.  Just think it through otherwise you are going to glue stuff together really well that you do not want bonded – trust me.  It is a real headache so plan for seepage/dripping and how you will deal with it.

Patience

This is something I have gotten better at over the years – wait the recommended amount of time.  If they say 24 hours then wait 24 hours.  If you have questions about using the part sooner then ask the manufacturer.  For example, you might be able to assemble something after 10 hours but not actually put it under strain for 24 hours.  Factor in the temperature.  The colder it is then the longer it will take.  Remember what I said about the heat from lamps above.

Safety

Yeah, I had to add this.  Follow all guidance from the vendors.  The resins aren’t too bad but some of the hardeners are nasty.  Wear rubber gloves, use eye protection, work in a well ventilated area and wear a real good dust mask when sanding.  I use N99 masks now for everything.

I hope you found this general epoxy guidance helpful!

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Here are links to some of the stuff I use:

AcraGlas at Brownells.  As a reminder, I prefer and recommend the liquid, not the gel:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas–prod1033.aspx

Loctite E-120HP [note that most sellers on Amazon charge a fortune for this so dig around at industrial supply houses such as McMaster, Zoro, MSC, etc.  Also, remember that you need the tube of glue, gun and disposable tips.  When the glue hardens in the tip, it protects the cartridge and you then replace the tip for your next work session but it does mean you need multiple tips.  I use this glue mostly for big projects like bonding together larger pieces of wood, etc.]
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797913677825

ITW Devcon Plastic Steel

JB KwikWeld – note that this is a thicker grey liquid.  I use it if I am in a rush and need an epoxy.  I’ve used it to bed rifles and repair stuff mainly.  I have not used it on knife handles.  Also, due to its grey color, you can go darker towards black but not lighter.

Now I have used a ton of their sticks to create clamps, fill voids, etc.  I typically have 2-4 sticks sitting in my supplies because when I need them, I need them.

Epoxy Dyes – there are a bunch on Amazon but I don’t know them.  In general, I use So-Strong dyes from SmoothOn when I need small amounts.  My black dye is bought by the pound in bulk containers.
https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/strong/

10cc Syringes

Digital Scale – it will get filthy so buy something cheap but with good reviews.

Clamps – there are so many ways to clamp stuff together.  I use everything from woodworking vises to spring clips to C-clamps to the big heavy duty Irwin clamps that can do up to 600 pounds of pressure with one hand.

Wax paper

Plastic Cups – I’d recommend checking around.  You need to balance cost and quality.  Some cups are absurdly thin and you can’t use them for mixing.  I get mine from GFS and you can tell they have made them cheaper and cheaper over the years.  5oz is still good but 9 and 16oz cups aren’t so red hot any longer.

Plastic Knives – again, check around.  I get mine from GFS in a big box and they work just fine.

Heat gun – I have burned out a ton of them.  This DeWalt D26950 is the first one to last longer than a year.  I’d guess I’ve been using it for almost three now.

Dust Mask – I used Moldex 2310 N99 face masks now exclusively.  They hold up fairly well and aren’t hard to breath with.

Nitrile Gloves – the best deal I have found is from Harbor Freight for their 5mil gloves.  When they go on sale or you get a coupon for $5.99/box of 100 gloves, go get them.  They are thin and don’t hold up to tough use but to keep your hands clean and balancing off strength and cost, they are a pretty good deal.  Even at $7.99/box without shipping they are a pretty good deal.

 

Review: Wen 61720 Brad Nailer Works Great and is VERY Affordable!!

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Hiya folks, my hands shake due to what is known as a hereditary tremor.  When I try to do fine work it often gets even worse and I hate trying to drive fine nails/brads.  A number of years back I bought a Harbor Freight brad nailer that broke in 2016 after a few years of very light use (read that to mean the quality was very disappointing from the get go).  So, rather than play Russian Roulette with Harbor Freight, I went to Amazon and started digging on brad nailers and reading the reviews.

I came across the WEN 61720 3/4-Inch to 2-Inch 18-Gauge Brad Nailer.  It is both their best seller and with 926 reviews, it has 4.7 stars.  Folks, when you have that many reviews and that kind of score, it says something.  If a product sucks, reviewers can go back in and change the score so I figured the quality must be pretty decent.  I paid $26.33 for it in May 2016 and now it is $19.34!!  Yes, the price actually went down.  But I tell you what, I have no regrets.

The Wen uses regular 18-gauge brads.  It came in a simple plastic case with a small tube of oil and instructions.  It even had the 1/4″ air fitting installed.  I’ve used Senco, Bostitch, Porter Cable and Harbor Freight brads no problem.  I bought a few variety packs of brads but most of my nailing seems to be 1″, 1-1/4″, 1-3/8″ and 1-1/2″ with this unit.  I have a bigger 16 gauge nailer that I use for longer heavier nails.

 

To make moving the nailer around easy, I have a 1/4″ x 50′ Amflo Polyurethane air hose on it with Milton fittings.  This hose is light and very flexible.  Even in the winter it has been great – I use it to put air in my truck tires when it is so cold that my rubber hoses are stiff.  By the way, if you want air couplers that hold up over time and do not leak – go with Milton.  They beat the beat the heck out of Harbor Freight and Husky.

I tend to run the tool between 60-90PSI depending on how hard I want it to hit the nail.  If you are working with really soft pine, it can really drive it in so I run a lower pressure, usually 60 PSI, in those cases.  I will drive a test brad and look at the results to decide if I need to adjust the pressure further or not.  Most of my work is with pine but I have also done some poplar as well as a bit of oak trim.

As with just about any air tool, be sure to lubricate it with air tool oil.  I don’t run inline oilers due to needing clean air for my plastic work so I simply put in a few drops when I start using the tool for the day.  I have used all kinds of oil and just stick with name brands.  Right now, I have bottles from ATS and others sitting by various tools.  I would recommend sticking with a name brand and one that is relatively light for use in nailers vs. thicker for impact wrenches (Lucas is an example of a heavier pneumatic tool oil).  Also, unless you have an inline oiler, a squeeze bottle with a spout really helps vs. a pour top that will make a big mess.  For guys getting started, the small bottle that comes with the nailer will last you quite a while – just be sure to use it!!  Don’t run the nailer dry.

My project the other day was to resurrect and old planter from my dad.  I took the screws off and each shelf that was stapled together had become very loose.  I put a few drops of air tool oil int he Wen’s inlet fitting, selected brads that were a hair shorter than the wood I was putting together, and then drove 2-3 of the small 1-1/4″ brads into each individual slat to stabilize it.  I then reassembled the plant stand with new screws, stained it with Minwax Provincial Stain and applied 4 spray on coats of satin spar polyurethane on top.  The project turned out great.  It’s rock solid and it’s a little something from my dad that reminds me of him.

So I have driven probably at least 500 brads with this over the past year without one problem of any kind.  The reliability is a huge plus as I hate having to mess with tools to get them to work.  I have no problem recommending this Wen brad nailer to you for relatively casual use – I do not use it in production.  I’d certainly buy it again – you can’t beat the combination of quality and price.

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WEN 61720 3/4-Inch to 2-Inch 18-Gauge Brad Nailer

Features: Fire brads from 3/4 to 2 inches in length, Operate at 60 to 100 PSI with a 1/4-inch NPT air inlet fitting, Lightweight aluminum body weighs in at 3 pounds with rubber-grip handle for maximum comfort, Hold up to 100 brads in the magazine with a quick-release to make jam clearing a breeze, Includes oil, two adjustment wrenches and a custom carrying case

Remember when your brad nailer was reliable? The WEN 18-Gauge Brad Nailer effortlessly shoots brads anywhere from 3/4 to 2 inches in size. With a lightweight 3-pound aluminum body and a comfortable rubber-grip handle, this tool is the perfect companion for any job site. Just plug in your favorite air compressor and start nailing. The WEN Brad Nailer operates at anywhere from 60 to 100 PSI with a 1/4 inch NPT air inlet fitting. The spacious magazine carries up to 100 brads while the quick-release design makes jam clearing a breeze. The kit includes oil, adjustment wrenches and a custom carrying case for convenient storage between jobs. And it wouldn’t be a WEN product if it weren’t backed by a one year warranty, a friendly customer help line and a nationwide network of skilled service technicians. The WEN 18-Gauge Brad Nailer: remember when you could get through a job without your nailer constantly jamming up? Remember WEN.
List Price: $26.54 USD
New From: $20.00 USD In Stock

Review: Chicago Pneumatic CP7200 Mini Orbital Sander is Solid!

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Well folks, I bought three Jet small dual action sanders from a closeout tool shop 4-6 years ago and have to replace the little valve on them several times each.  This year when two failed, there were no little valves to be found so I decided to go with a name brand.  I did this for two reasons – solid quality and replacement parts.  These get a ton of use in my shop.   I did some digging around and ran across the CP7200 that has a nice grip, variable throttle, integral regulator to adjust the speed and both a 2″ and 3″ hook and loop pad.

   

 

For me, the backer is really important.  I need to sand curved shapes, constantly switch grits of sandpaper and those backing pads do wear out.  I can’t tell you how many I replaced on my Jet sanders and not all of them are good quality.  I made sure this unit used a standard thread (1/4×20) so I could readily find replacement backers.   Note the little tool in the next photo, it slides into a key hole so you can lock the head and screw the backer in securely.  Many of these little sanders are this way.  I have a tool glued into a length of fuel hose to find it easier, I’ve used little philips head screw drivers, etc.  Bottom line is that you need to lock the head in place so you can thread on the backer and tighten it down.

Any air sander uses a lot of air – let’s just be up front about that.    The manual recommends 16.6 CFM @ 90PSI.  That means you’ll want to have a decent compressor and need to figure out how much you want it to run vs. you waiting.  In other words, using this with an air compressor intended for an air nailer is going to suck.  The little compressor will not be able to keep up and it’s tank is way too small.  I have a Ingersoll Rand 2340 with a 60 gallon tank and the pump can deliver 14.3CFM at 90PSI and fills the tank to 175PSI.  This that if I am running the tool wide open non-stop, I will use air faster than the compressor can refill the tank.  However, it is a big tank at an even higher pressure plus I sand and stop, sand and stop over and over.  It really does not tax my compressor at all.

Oh – one last comment about the air supply – use a 3/8″ internal diameter (ID) hose so you can get enough air to the tool.  With a 1/4″ hose you may well starve it because the air will be very restricted until it gets to the tool.  It’s like having too small of a gauge extension cord going to a power tool – you can just get so much air down that small 1/4″ diameter hose.  Quarter inch fittings are fine but do use the 3/8″ hose.  With that said, as usual, the unit did not have a 1/4″ quick connect installed so I took one out of my parts bin, installed some PTFE tape and snugged it down. As you can see, the tools weighs in at 1 pound 9.7oz.  Not too bad and the grip is nice.

  

Before you put it into production, squeeze in 2-4 drops of air tool oil.  I’ve had good luck with all the oils I have bought and just stick with a name brand such as ATS, Porter-Cable, CH, and even Husky.  Your air tool needs this to run.  If you have an in-line oiler in your air lines then you may be able to skip this step.  I filter the heck out of my air and have to manually oil my tools.  My rule of thumb is to oil them before each day of use.

So I bought the unit on May 14th, 2017, and already have probably 20 hours on it with no hitch.  Not surprisingly the head was a little stiff but everything wore in nicely.  It appears to be working like a champ so I am recommending it to others.

Note, CP backers are a fortune.  I’ve had very good luck with this brand of Chinese backing pad with my other sanders so I’m providing the eBay link.  Be very sure the thread is right (I’ve found three so far – 1/4, 5/16 and M6 so be careful) and look for the particular graphic label.  I’ve had other Chinese backers that just disintegrated with very little use.  You figure the tool can spin up to 15,000 RPM so your pad needs to be rated for that as well.  If you can find them elsewhere, great.  I scrounge around on eBay until I find them.

Update 7/7/2017:  The sander is still working great – no problems at all.  I’d estimate the unit has somewhere between 30-40 hours of use on it at least – it gets used a lot.

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TWO 2 inch Hook and Loop Replacement SANDING PADS 1/4"x 20 15,000RPM

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TWO 2 inch Hook and Loop Replacement SANDING PADS 1/4"x 20 15,000RPM

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Also, I swear by Milton air line fittings.  Harbor Freight and Husky female fittings just do not hold up.  I do have a ton of HF and Husky male fittings that I am slowly using up but only buy Milton female quick connects now and will switch to all Milton as soon as I run out of the old plugs.  I’ve been using Milton Type M female couplers for over a year and they are solid.

 

 

 


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Chicago Pneumatic CP7200 Mini Random Orbital Sander

Features: Mini pistol disc sander with 2″ (50mm) and 3″ (75mm) Roloc pad, Adjustable Power Regulator, Two Finger Progressive Throttle, Muffled Handle Exhaust, 1-Year parts and labor warranty

Maximize operator control and ergonomics, less fatigue. Mini pistol random orbital sander with 2″ (50 mm) and 3″ (75 mm) H&L pads. Job done faster and easier. Excellent for small area repair. Rubber molded pistol grip.
List Price: $165.00 USD
New From: $98.87 USD In Stock

How to remove rust from a tool with apple cider vinegar

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I live in Michigan and work in an unheated shop.  In the winter, when I use a space heater to work, condensation forms on metal surfaces and rust happens.  I try to keep my tools oiled but once in a while I miss something.  There is a real simple way to remove rust that is dirt cheap and very effective.  In fact, you may even be surprised.  Apple cider vinegar is a safe and easy way to remove rust.   Note, it may well remove finishes such as bluing so you just want to do this on bare metals.

Apple cider vinegar contains acetic acid at a low concentration.  All you need to do is let your tool, or whatever, sit in the cider while you do other work.  In general, warmer is better.  I’d shoot for 60-70F or it will take forever but I wouldn’t bother boiling the cider either. It was 62F when I fixed these needle nose pliers and it took about half an hour.

Be sure to do this outside or some place well ventilated.  If you don’t, the vapors can cause rust.  I do most of my work out in my drive way to avoid causing problems.

So, here are a decent but rusty pair of small Ace needle nose pliers with plenty of surface rust.  All I needed to start was cheap apple cider vinegar (Spartan is a store brand here) and a small plastic container.  The one caveat is that the pliers can’t have oil or grease on them so I did spray them with brake cleaner to remove any oils before the next step.  You could use whatever cleaner or solvent you like.

 

So I just submerged the tool in the vinegar.  I’ve used everything from wall paper tubs to cups to bowls and so forth.  After a while you should see foam around the metal from tiny gas bubbles coming up and this means it is working.  It may take 5-10 minutes before you see any bubbles because this is a slow reaction.  If you never see bubbles then it may mean either there is oil on the metal, the remaining acetic acid is too weak (if you are re-using vinegar over and over the acid gets used up so there is less and less of it per given volume) or it is too cold.  I would not bother doing this under 50F or it will take forever.

 

In this example, i was about 30 minutes before I pulled the pliers out.  In general, the warmer the solution the faster it will react.  It was 62F when I did these and I didn’t bother heating anything.  Look at how foamy the rust looks and the steel has turned a grey color.  The rust will come right off.  I used 0000 steel wool to remove it.  If the tool needed more time, I could dunk it back it.   In my case, the tool was definitely done.  I then hosed the tool down liberally with WD40 to remove the vinegar and avoid rusting.  If you want to pour boiling water on it you can but you need to get something on there fast to prevent rust.  In general, I just use WD40 followed by CLP or oil because the acid in the vinegar is so weak and I’ve not had a problem with rust later.  If I was using a stronger acid, then I would be worrying more about neutralizing, then rinsing, applying WD40 and then oil.

 

Here’s what it looked like after I oiled it.  After that, I just put it away – it was that easy!  I do this a few times a year at least and the process has worked just fine.

When I was done, I put the vinegar back in a separate container to use again.  If you want, you could throw it out.  It will slowly weaken with repeated use.  If I have any doubt about effectiveness, I toss the cider and use some that is fresh.

I keep this just in the garage and well away from the kitchen.  The point is that you don’t want people consuming contaminated vinegar so label it and keep it away from the kitchen, pantry, etc.

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Buy a big Neiko 10048A set of quarter inch driver bits and not worry about having the right one when you encounter something weird

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You know the quarter-inch bit really gives you amazing flexibility 4 installing or removing different types of screws, bolts and even using some tools such as Spade bits and step drills. With them you can overcome the problem of having the right type of screwdriver to install or remove specialty security screws or even things such as Torx and Allen heads.

For the most part when I am using Phillips bits I stick with name brands such as DeWalt, Irwin, Milwaukee and so forth. What I have found is that cheap bits aren’t always very rugged and round the tips over very quickly compared to name brand higher-quality bits.

For security/tamper-proof bits and specialty bits, I have this large set from Neiko.  The below set has served me well so far when I hit the “oh man, do I have a bit for that” moments when working on cars, guns and electronics:

In case you are wondering, here is what Neiko reports about their 10048A bit set:

The 100-Piece Security Bits Set Security bits set contains many of the most common tamper proof type security bit sizes, including tri-wing bits, torx bits, spanner bits, and hex bits. Security bits set contains: 1 – wing nut driver. 1 – magnetic bit holder. 1 – socket bit holder. 1 – 1/4-Inch sq. x 1/4-Inch hex x 1-Inch extension. 1 – 1/4-Inch sq. x 1/4-Inch hex x 2-Inch extension. 3 – clutch bits (No. 1, 2 and 3). 3 – torque bits (No. 6, 8 and 10). 3 – spline bits (M-5, 6 and 8). 4 – tri-wing bits (No. 1, 2, 3 and 4). 4 – square recess bits (No. 0, 1, 2 and 3). 4 – spanner bits (No. 4, 6, 8 and 10). 6 – metric hex tamper proof bits (2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 and 6). 6 – SAE hex tamper proof bits (5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64 and 5/32). 8 – Phillips bits (0, 1, 2{5} and 3). 8 – pozi drive bits (0, 1, 2{5} and 3). 9 – slotted bits (3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7 and 8). 9 – metric hex bits (1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 5.5, 6 and 8). 9 – torx bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 and 40). 9 – torx tamper proof bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 and 40). 10 – SAE hex bits (1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32 and 1/4). Set includes plastic storage / carry case.

Based on my experience, for the price it is cheap insurance and it has saved me more than once so you might want to consider a set.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.

 


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Neiko 10048A Security Bit Set, Chrome Vanadium Steel | 100-Piece Set

Features: DURABILITY: bits made of high quality chrome vanadium steel for strong hardness that reduce wear-outs and insure longevity,, PRECISION BITS: precisely and automatically machined bit tips to ensure accurate size, chamfered bit ends insert smoothly into fasteners and protect both bits and fasteners from damaged edges, CORROSION RESISTANT: each bit has sandblasted finish for corrosion resistant, ORGANIZED STORAGE: set includes a sturdy plastic organizing case for secure storage and easy carrying, 100-Piece Tamper proof security type bit set includes: 8-pc Phillips: PH#0, PH#1, PH#2 x 5, PH#3; 8-pc Pozi drive: PZ#0, PZ#1, PZ#2 x 5, PZ#3; 9-pc Slotted: 3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8mm; 9-pc Torx Star: T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45; 9-pc tamper proof Torx Star: T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T35, T40; 9-pc Metric Hex: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 5.5, 6, 8mm; 6-pc tamper proof Metric Hex: 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6mm; 10-pc SAE Hex: 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, 1/4″; 6-pc tamper proof SAE Hex: 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32″; 4-pc Square: S0, S1, S2, S3; 4-pc Spanner: 4, 6, 8, 10; 3-pc Torq: 6, 8, 10; 4-pc Tri-Wing: 1, 2, 3, 4; 3-pc Clutch: 1, 2, 3; 3-pc Spline: 5, 6, 8mm; 1-pc Wing nut driver; 1-pc Magnetic bit holder; 1-pc 1/4″ Hex to 1/4″ Drive socket adaptor (1″ long); 1-pc 1/4″ Hex to 1/4″ Drive socket adaptor (2″ long); 1-pc 1/4″ Drive to 1/4″ Hex bit adaptor

100 pc. Security Bits Set Security bits set contains many of the most common tamper proof type security bit sizes, including tri-wing bits, torx bits, spanner bits, and hex bits. Security bits set contains: 1 – wing nut driver. 1 – magnetic bit holder. 1 – socket bit holder. 1 – 1/4″ sq. x 1/4″ hex x 1″ extension. 1 – 1/4″ sq. x 1/4″ hex x 2″ extension. 3 – clutch bits (# 1, 2 & 3). 3 – torq bits (# 6, 8 & 10). 3 – spline bits (M-5, 6 & 8). 4 – tri-wing bits (# 1, 2, 3 & 4). 4 – square recess bits (# 0, 1, 2 & 3). 4 – spanner bits (# 4, 6, 8 & 10). 6 – metric hex tamper proof bits (2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 & 6). 6 – SAE hex tamper proof bits (5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64 & 5/32). 8 – phillips bits (0, 1, 2{5} & 3). 8 – pozi drive bits (0, 1, 2{5} & 3). 9 – slotted bits (3, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7 & 8). 9 – metric hex bits (1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 5.5, 6 & 8). 9 – torx bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 & 40). 9 – torx tamper proof bits (T-8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 27, 30, 35 & 40). 10 – SAE hex bits (1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32 & 1/4). Set includes plastic storage / carry case.
List Price: $11.75 USD
New From: $11.75 USD In Stock

Irwin Lock-n-Load Quarter-inch bit extensions can save your bacon

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Irwin make some very nice quarter-inch drive extensions in different lengths that you can use for extending your reach of everything from screwdriver bits, socket drivers and even step drills. I have even stacked the units for getting into really bizarre locations. I have use them for everything from reaching down inside butt stocks to loosen Frozen bolts, to truck firewalls, to holding Spade bits while drilling custom holes for recoil absorbing mercury cylinders, and so forth.

They are not very expensive and are definitely something I would recommend keeping in your toolbox for those times you have to reach something that is set way back.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.