Category Archives: DIY – Do It Yourself

How to Fix A 2016 Ford Transit With a 3.7L Ecoboost Engine That Has a P051B Error Code

So, we have a 2016 Ford Transit F150 van with the 3.7 liter EcoBoost engine. It’s actually surprising how powerful that engine is because it can launch that big rectangle! However, there is an irritating recurring issue that we’ve had and that is the “P051B – Powertrain” message when the Check Engine Light (CEL) turns on. The posts and forum threads weren’t always very clear about what to do so I figured I would write about my experience to try and help people out.

How do I read ODB2 codes?

I’ve written about it in the past, I use a BAFX ODB2 scanner that connects to my Samsung phone via Bluetooth. I then use the Torque Pro app to read error codes and reset them when needed. I’ve used this combo for years and am quite happy.

Here’s the error code in Torque Pro. There is a free Torque version and a Pro without advertising. I find ads annoying so I paid some really small amount of money to go to Pro years ago and think it is totally worth it.
The ODB2 port is located just above and to the left of the brake pedal on the lower parts of the dash panel.

What is error code P051B?

The P051B code is returned when the engine control module (ECM), or the vehicle’s powertrain control module (PCM), has detected that the engine crankcase pressure sensor is returning values that are outside of normal operating limits. Isn’t that just great?

Remember the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve and exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system that cars had when you were younger? This is related to that – the fumes inside of the engine needs to be pulled out and burned. This improves both efficiency and emissions. The sensor is reporting back pressure changes of the EGR.

Now this is where things went sideways. I had a ton of rubbish posts to read through until I found out that Ford used a different name for the sensor plus it wasn’t exactly clear about where the sensor was located on what to order.

What does Ford call the crankcase pressure sensor?

No, they couldn’t call it something that obvious. Ford calls it the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor. So, if you are searching all over for Ecoboost and something with pressure sensor in the search text, you’re going to find a ton of confusing crap. Try searching with DPFE instead.

Trying to find out what DPFE stood for was really bugging the hell out of me. A fellow told me to go look at the official 2016 Model year ODB guide from Ford and finally, on page 120 they define it as the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor.

One other comment – Ford has a lot of free reference information available online but you have to hunt for it. Click here and select the option for Free Resources – that includes OBD2 guides by model year, body repair and much more.

So what can cause the P051B error code?

There are a number of things that can cause this code so let me list them in the order I would check them starting with the easiest:

  1. Is the dipstick fully inserted?
  2. Is the O-ring that seals the cap in the tube intact on the dipstick?
  3. Is the engine oil overfilled?
  4. Is there water/coolant in the oil causing it to be too full? The oil will be frothy and colored like coffee with milk in it.
  5. Are any of the PCV lines cracked or otherwise knocked off?
  6. Look inside the oil fill cap – is there a ton of sludge? If so, pull off the lines and look at the valves to see if they are filled with sludge. You can pull them regardless if you want to be sure.
  7. The pressure sensor might have failed… yeah….

For me, the last two times, it has been #7. It’s getting annoying. I’m now on my third sensor. Note, if it is the sensor then it is not critical but I do like knowing whether the check engine light is telling me something new or not so having it lit all the time is very annoying for me. In other words, you can drive with the sensor having problems but you will not know if a new code is being generated unless you hook up your scanner.

I think the sensor location was a poor choice

Let me tell you that it’s my opinion that the EcoBoost has a design flaw – the crankcase pressure sensor is sitting on a PVC hose and it gets fouled out by moisture and oil. The location can vary depending on your vehicle and which EcoBoost engine you have but on my 3.7L, it’s on the driver’s side of the engine,

So that’s the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor right there in the red circle. Note the oil fill cap in the lower right of the photo to help you get your bearings.

Why they did this, I have no idea and we are now on our third sensor. The first was replaced by the dealer right after we got the van because Ford had revised the design. That sensor then failed and I replaced it myself. It turned out to be real easy.

What to order

Now this is where things get confusing. If you search hard enough, you can find just the sensor unit itself and if Rock Auto is correct, it is the DPFE-30 unit part number FR3Z-9J460-A … but it has been discontinued. I know they revised the design of the sensor to try and reduce fouling and maybe this is the older version. I returned this to Rock Auto and did not install it. I can’t confirm DPFE-30 is the correct sensor just to be clear – I think it is the older design they revised. The part that goes into the tube looked different.

What you want to buy is the assembly that includes the tubing and the sensor. This is the current part number as of my writing this blog to the best of my knowledge: GK4Z-6758-B

Here is the brand new part fresh from the dealer – GK4Z-6758-B
Here’s a close up of the assembly’s parts label.
This is the sensor still on the tubes. It is held in place by the two black “Ears” – one on the top left of the sensor and one at the bottom left. Gently pry them up with a small blade screw driver and the unit comes right out.
This is the part that goes into the hose.

Where to buy the GK4Z-6758-B Assembly?

Okay, you can get it from your local dealership for about $81 or you can buy it online for $38-42+S&H. We were going on a trip so I didn’t have time to wait and went with the dealer. While $81 may sound like a lot, if you mail order the part next day the price difference is less than it may first seem.

What I have been using more and more are vendors on eBay. You’ll see photos that look like what I showed above and also less detailed drawings that just show a tube. I’d go with reputable vendors and the ones with a real image or detailed drawing of the part.

Genuine Ford PCV Tube GK4Z-6758-B

$57.57  
End Date: Monday Jul-06-2020 18:06:17 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $57.57
Buy It Now

Genuine Ford PCV Tube GK4Z-6758-B

$57.74  
End Date: Wednesday Jul-08-2020 14:37:40 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $57.74
Buy It Now

Genuine Ford PCV Tube GK4Z-6758-B

$58.34  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 17:56:29 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $58.34
Buy It Now

Genuine Ford PCV Tube GK4Z-6758-B

$62.39  
End Date: Monday Jul-06-2020 23:32:24 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $62.39
Buy It Now

Genuine Ford PCV Tube GK4Z-6758-B

$62.74  
End Date: Tuesday Jul-14-2020 11:03:17 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $62.74
Buy It Now

OEM NEW 2016-2020 Ford Transit 3.5L Ecoboost Crankcase Breather Hose GK4Z6758B

$44.45  
End Date: Tuesday Jul-07-2020 11:31:01 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $44.45
Buy It Now

FORD OEM 16-18 Transit-350 HD 3.5L-V6 Emission-PCV VacuumTube GK4Z6758B

$59.41  
End Date: Tuesday Jul-14-2020 02:35:37 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $59.41
Buy It Now

FORD OEM 16-18 Transit-350 HD 3.5L-V6 Emission-PCV VacuumTube GK4Z6758B

$56.57  
End Date: Saturday Jul-25-2020 04:15:58 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $56.57
Buy It Now

FORD OEM 16-18 Transit-350 HD 3.5L-V6 Emission-PCV VacuumTube GK4Z6758B

$47.17  
End Date: Friday Jul-17-2020 15:48:13 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $47.17
Buy It Now

FORD OEM 16-18 Transit-350 HD 3.5L-V6 Emission-PCV VacuumTube GK4Z6758B

$48.26  
End Date: Wednesday Aug-05-2020 06:26:58 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $48.26
Buy It Now

Another options is to order online from one of the big Ford Parts vendors. Click here for a Google Search

How to remove the old tube?

First, use a small blade screw driver to slide under the retaining tab and remove the wiring harness from the sensor. With the tab slightly up, it pulls straight back.

This is the opposite end of the sensor. You need to lift that tab up front just a tad with a small blade screw driver.
The tab just has to rise over that tiny nub just above the “GL3A” printed text near the right end to then slide off.
That little black tab above the white plastic just barely has lift up and then the plug can be pulled back off the sensor.

Next is to remove the tubing from the engine. There are quick connect fittings on each end. You just push the band’s tab out and the band moves out of the slot in the PVC fittings. It helps to look at the replacement hose first to see how the tab moves. With the tab held out, you can lift the tube straight up and off the fitting. It’s actually easy once you do the first one. Again, play with the replacement and you’ll see how it works.

It’s a novel design really. Push that little grey tab to the right and it will allow the fitting to be lifted straight up off the male plug. The one at the bottom of the engine you will need to do by feel but it is the same way – feel the tab, push it out and hold the tab out while you lift.

So, the replacement assembly took less than a minute to click back into place and reconnect the wiring assembly. Done. I cleared the code and a month later, it hasn’t come back.

Lessons learned – be careful while reading in the Internet. There are some people posting stuff that have no idea what they are talking about plus the super secret different name Ford chose to use for the sensor didn’t help matters.

Follow the troubleshooting list I wrote above and if it is the sensor, it is an easy fix. It took me about 10-15 minutes being real careful and I bet the next one will take 5 minutes max. I did have a hard time sorting through all the low-value posts and hope this helps you get your engine taken care of.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


Here Come The Mosquitoes and Ticks! Argh! How To Find Talstar P Pro Now And The M4 Sprayer

One of my favorite move lines comes from Aliens when Ellen Ripley says, “I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit. It’s the only way to be sure.” While I would like to do that with mosquitoes, it’s just not an option currently.

Not on the table for mosquitoes yet though it does sound effective. The collateral damage is hard to justify though 🙂

The best approach for dealing with the little winged horrors and ticks still seems to be Talstar P Pro. Seriously, we live in an area that can described as a reclaimed swamp (it really was) and the mosquitoes used to be unbearable. I blogged about this first in 2018 about my move to Talstar and using a Ryobi battery powered sprayer and then a second post in 2019 that covered my continued use of Talstar and my purchase of a My 4 Sons sprayer.

This will be our third year using it and I just applied our first dose the other night – 1oz Talstar per gallon of water and than I go spray it on the bushes, around the buildings, under the eves etc. When I went to buy more Talstar off Amazon, they would not deliver it to my area and never really explained why so I figured I better blog about where to find it and also the My 4 Sons sprayer that isn’t on Amazon any longer.

This is the 3/4 gallon (96oz) size Talstar P Professional insecticide by FMC. I have an acre and a half. I use 10-15 gallons of spray depending on what all I am treating and how heavy I am applying it. That means I use 10-15oz of Talstar per treatment (1 oz TP to 1 oz water).

Buying Talstar P Pro Insecticide

My big problem this year that I wanted to make you aware of is Amazon – at least in my case they will not deliver it to our address. I’m getting increasingly frustrated by Amazon so I went to eBay and ordered it both cheaper and faster delivery. So, I create a real time feed so you can see listings on eBay and order it yourself in case you need or want to:

Talstar P 16 oz. Talstar Pro FMC Talstar P Multi-Insecticide NOT FOR: NY,CT,SD

$32.75  
End Date: Saturday Jul-11-2020 06:53:31 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $32.75
Buy It Now

Talstar P ( 32 oz.) -Talstar Pro - FMC Talstar Insecticide - NOT FOR: NY, CT,SD

$42.95  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 23:18:39 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $42.95
Buy It Now

Talstar P Insecticide 3/4 Gallon Talstar Pro Talstar Professional Insecticide

$55.95  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 08:09:00 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $55.95
Buy It Now

Pro Talstar P Insecticide Inside Outside Bed Bugs Ants Roach Fleas Tick Mosquito

$44.79  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 18:16:24 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $44.79
Buy It Now

Pro Talstar P Insecticide Inside Outside Bed Bugs Ants Roach Fleas Tick Mosquito

$44.79  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 18:16:24 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $44.79
Buy It Now

Pro Talstar P Insecticide Inside Outside Bed Bugs Ants Roach Fleas Tick Mosquito

$90.79  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 18:16:24 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $90.79
Buy It Now

Pro Talstar P Insecticide Inside Outside Bed Bugs Ants Roach Fleas Tick Mosquito

$56.79  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 18:16:24 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $56.79
Buy It Now

Pro Talstar P Insecticide Inside Outside Bed Bugs Ants Roach Fleas Tick Mosquito

$68.79  
End Date: Monday Jul-13-2020 18:16:24 EDT
Buy It Now for only: $68.79
Buy It Now

My 4 Sons M4 Sprayer

The next thing I want to do is give you a “one year later” report on the M4 sprayer made by My 4 Sons. I’m happy to report it has held up great and their customer service was exceptional. Note, I definitely drained it completely before freezing weather set in.

This is my actual sprayer the morning of 5/2/2020

Here are some lessons learned on my part and a couple of minor issues I encountered:

  • I bought way too much hose when all I needed was to just tow it around like a golf cart and spray stuff. I took the extra hose and saved it just in case.
  • I bought all kinds of sprayer gizmos and all I use is the wand. It has a brass tip, is adjustable and worked just fine for me.
  • The red elastic straps they provided did not hold up – the tank would fall of the cart. I just went to ace hardware and bought some 1″ nylon straps with buckles and cut them to size. I told My 4 Sons about what I did and am not sure if they changed how they are securing the tank.
  • One wheel broke and My 4 sons promptly sent me a replacement at no cost
  • The gasket on the lid was goofy and they sent me an improved model at no cost

This Spring I could not find the battery charger and ordered a replacement part from them. The price was reasonable and on their website – of course I found the original shortly there after.

As mentioned, I’ve already done my first application this year and the unit is doing great – they aren’t on Amazon any longer though. I want you to know they are a reputable firm with a good product and customer service. I would recommend that you go direct to My 4 Sons.

Just to be clear, Talstar will work in any sprayer – it’s pretty much the same viscosity as water so any pump sprayer – manual or batter powered – will work. I needed something bigger because of the size of our lot.

Conclusion

The Talstar P Pro and M4 sprayer are a great combination that I would recommend to anyone trying to deal with mosquitoes. It’s cheaper than a service and way, way more effective than the cheap stuff you buy in a store.

I hope this helps you out.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


Filti is selling Fabric For DIY Filtering Facemasks – It’s 9x Better Than Cotton And Can Reach N95 Filtration

Ok folks, quick public service announcement – just read on Business Insider about a manufacturer in Oklahoma, NXTI, who has developed a nano fiber fabric called “Filti” that is 9x better than cotton in terms of filtering and can hit N95 in commercial face masks. It’s a better filter than blue shop towels and is designed to be a filter from the get go.

You can order it on their Filti website – click here. It’s $29.99 for 21 sq ft that can make 50-80 masks. They offer larger quantities as well. I just ordered a 21 sq ft batch to try it out.

Two Videos

I hope this helps you out.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.