Tag Archives: Build

Polymer80 Glock Builders: There is a TON of parts on eBay

If you are working on a Polymer80 build or even wanting to overhaul your existing Glock, there are a ton of parts on eBay.  You can find some good deals but I would recommend you stick with reputable brands and sellers. For the sellers, I would look for lots of sales – at least over 30 and ideally hundreds – and very good scores.  There are cheap imports/knock-offs showing up so beware no-name stuff.

The following are all real-time listing on eBay so you can go there and find parts.

Glock 27 Raptor Series Slide w/ Std Sight Black G27 Gen 3 940SC Polymer 80

$209.99
End Date: Sunday Sep-22-2019 12:06:02 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $209.99
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Glock 17 OEM Style Slide Std Sights Black G17 Gen 3 940v2 940CL Polymer 80 OEM

$159.99
End Date: Sunday Sep-22-2019 12:19:12 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $159.99
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AlphaWolf Slide for Glock 21 Polymer80 Gen 3 w/ Dovetail and OEM Rear Serrations

$199.95
End Date: Monday Sep-30-2019 14:06:39 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $199.95
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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CUSTOM SLIDE | STAINLESS STEEL BLACK CERAKOTE - FOR GLOCK 19 GEN 1,2,3,Polymer80

$150.00
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 14:52:00 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $150.00
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Polymer80 CPCTREDBL Glock Gen1-4 Compatible Red/Black Curved Trigger

$95.00
End Date: Friday Oct-11-2019 2:03:33 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $95.00
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CUSTOM SERRATTED SLIDE FOR GLOCK 19 GEN1,2,3,Poly80 | RMR Cut For Trijicon

$185.00
End Date: Thursday Oct-3-2019 22:05:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $185.00
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 17 Polymer-80 Spectre PF940-v2 LPK

$91.97
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 17:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $91.97
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Bare Slide - For Glock 19 GEN 1,2,3, & Polymer80 Stainless Steel - BRAND NEW

$145.00
End Date: Thursday Oct-10-2019 15:39:36 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $145.00
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Glock 19 Slide G19 P80 Polymer 80 Compatible Gen 3

$179.99
End Date: Wednesday Oct-2-2019 9:36:53 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $179.99
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - Mid Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Thursday Oct-10-2019 6:49:10 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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CUSTOM SLIDE | MATERIAL 17-4 PH BLACK CERAKOTE - FOR GLOCK 19 GEN 1,2,3

$180.00
End Date: Sunday Oct-13-2019 17:26:42 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $180.00
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$24.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $24.99
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Steel City Arsenal 9mm Upper Parts Kit for Glock Gen 1-4 Polymer 80 w/Liner Tool

$79.99
End Date: Thursday Oct-17-2019 17:11:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $79.99
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Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 17 Polymer-80 Spectre PF940-v2 LPK

$50.90
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 17:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $50.90
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Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 17 Polymer-80 Spectre PF940-v2 LPK

$37.97
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 17:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $37.97
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - Low Profile - ISLE MFG

$24.99
End Date: Monday Oct-7-2019 13:16:41 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $24.99
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Alpha Se7en Compact Aluminum Flared Magwell for Polymer 80 PF940C | PF940V2 P80

$39.99
End Date: Monday Sep-23-2019 19:11:23 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $39.99
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P80 Polymer 80 PF upper slide parts kit completion Bronze Red

$104.00
End Date: Saturday Oct-5-2019 11:28:18 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $104.00
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GLOCK 19 Gen 1-3 Lower Parts Kit OEM 9MM Polymer 80 PF940C Complete OEM Kit G19

$48.99
End Date: Friday Oct-18-2019 4:22:23 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $48.99
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Steel City Arsenal Magwell for Polymer80 PF940V2 Full Size Frame Battleworn Gray

$79.99
End Date: Thursday Oct-17-2019 17:11:26 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $79.99
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Extended Magwell for Polymer 80 Glock Frame

$20.00
End Date: Friday Oct-18-2019 13:48:04 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $20.00
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Glock 19 Slide Gen 3 - FDE - Spiral Armament

$175.00
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 14:01:25 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $175.00
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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Glock 19 Gen 3 Custom Cerakote Slide

$210.00
End Date: Sunday Oct-13-2019 18:07:06 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $210.00
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For GLOCK 9 millimeter Extended Upper and Lower TiN Gold Kit GEN 3 G 17 / 19

$212.75
End Date: Wednesday Oct-2-2019 16:38:15 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $212.75
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POLYMER80 CPCTBLKRE Trigger BLACK / RED for Glock 17 19 22 23 Gen 1 2 3 4

$94.95
End Date: Tuesday Oct-8-2019 18:50:02 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $94.95
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Steel City Arsenal Magwell for Polymer 80 PF940V2 Full Size Frame Battleworn Red

$79.99
End Date: Thursday Oct-17-2019 17:10:22 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $79.99
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NEW GLOCK OEM GEN 3 G 19 COMPLETE Slide Kit fits poly 80

$399.99
End Date: Sunday Oct-13-2019 18:47:55 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $399.99
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Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 17 Polymer-80 Spectre PF940-v2 LPK

$37.97
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 17:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $37.97
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 17 Polymer-80 Spectre PF940-v2 LPK

$42.95
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 17:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $42.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

GLOCK 17 Gen 1-3 Lower Parts Kit OEM 9MM Polymer 80 PF940v2 Complete OEM Kit G17

$51.99
End Date: Friday Oct-18-2019 4:24:27 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $51.99
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - Low Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Monday Oct-7-2019 13:16:41 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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Polymer80 Stainless Steel Pin Set for Pf940v2 Fullsize & Compact Glock 4pc

$7.00
End Date: Monday Sep-23-2019 10:32:50 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $7.00
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - Low Profile - ISLE MFG

$24.99
End Date: Monday Oct-7-2019 13:16:41 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $24.99
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Glock 17 Nitride Barrel G17 Gen 1 2 3 4 P80 Polymer 80 PF940v2 & PF940CL 9MM

$62.99
End Date: Friday Oct-18-2019 14:22:40 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $62.99
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Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 19 EXTENDED PARTS Polymer-80 Spectre

$69.50
End Date: Sunday Sep-22-2019 2:18:14 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $69.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon. With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated. Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


What To Do When Your AK’s Barrel Is Too Big For Your Front Trunnion?

A few years ago, I bought a 1969 Polish Radom Circle 11 AKM kit from Arms of America. It has laminate furniture, matching parts and they populated a new Polish Chrome Hammer Forged (CHF) barrel with the front, gas and rear sight blocks. Furthermore, it was headspaced. I double checked that before I pushed out the barrel pin and then the barrel – that’s where things got interesting.

Pressing Out The Barrel

I have a 30 ton H-style hydraulic press with a 20 ton air-over-hydraulic bottle. The thing is a brute and have used it many, many times over the years on gun and car projects. There are a few things you learn over the years – 20 tons is 40,000 pounds and is a serious amount of pressure – steel parts can bend, break or even shatter under those loads. You learn to go slow, watch carefully feel the pump and listen. I also learned long ago to use the air to move the ram quickly but always do the real work by hand for those very reasons – I’ve bent the crap out of stuff in years past because you can’t tell what is going on.

I wear a full face shield when working with a press. I’m not joking when I say things can go bad fast when there is a lot of pressure. When you push out a barrel, you just don’t expect a ton of pressure from a new kit – at least I don’t. I’ve had some real hairy barrel pins and barrels in years past when dealing with surplus… but not on a new kit with a populated barrel … not until now.

Pressing Out the Barrel

As you can guess, the barrel did not press out easily. I had to apply a boatload pressure – way more than average. So much that I put a 3/4″ piece of plywood between me and the trunnion/barrel assembly. I was also checking and double-checking that my barrel press tool squarely on just the barrel and not a part of the trunnion – guys I was nervous.

I reached the point where I knew I was squarely on the barrel and something had to give. I was whacking on the press trying to shock the barrel out and I kept upping the pressure – pump, whack, pump, whack… Finally the barrel came free like a gun shot. Guys- do you remember the old Romy kits where the pins and barrels sometimes felt like you were taking your life into your own hands? That’s what this felt like.

I actually inspected the front trunnion very carefully looking for cracks. I then inspected the chamber end of the barrel – nice and smooth – remarkably smooth. No signs of galling. Ditto on the inside of the trunnion. I suspect that someone was using some kind of press system that included a barrel support and slammed that new barrel in using a level of force I couldn’t do without damaging parts. I noted to myself that reassembly was probably going to be just as colorful.

Building The Kit

Nothing new about building the kit – I had fun. In the below photo, the front trunnion and rivets are just sitting there. I was mocking things up and they are not actually set. I installed the trigger guard taking care to orient the selector stop properly and using a rubber band to keep the assembly together as I used my press and an AK-Builder trigger guard rivet jig to do the job.

The rubber band keeps the receiver down on the trigger guard jig so the rivet, selector stop and trigger guard all stay in place while you move around. The AK-Builder jig really does a nice job.
Here, everything is drilled and seems good to go.

So let’s get back to the main point of this blog post and why you are probably reading this – what do you do when the interference fit is too tight and the barrel will not go into the trunnion all the way.

Life Got Colorful Trying to Press The Barrel Back In

Yeah, that tight fit came back to haunt me. I tried polishing the trunnion and applying non-seize. Usually this works for me but when I went to press the barrel back in, it would not go. I saw the barrel begin to deflect in the press and immediately stopped. Let me explain what I mean by deflect – a material will bend so much and spring back into place. When I saw the barrel begin to deflect, I immediately stopped – it was taking way too much pressure and I was risking bending the barrel permanently. It was time to press the barrel back out and rethink the situation.

Here’s my barrel and my receiver. I double-checked the barrel to make sure I did not bend it – I got lucky. I always get worried if I see the barrel start to deflect/bend — they don’t always return to true.

So, what this confirmed for me was the someone slammed this thing together – hard. An AK barrel is press fit into the trunnion. To do this, the barrel is a tad bigger than the hole made for it in the trunnion by about 0.0010-.0026″ (0 .025-0.065mm) according to Robert Forbus who is a true machinist and has shared a ton with the AK community – click here for his page). At the tighter end (around 0.002″) it is getting hard, if not outright impossible, for someone to press the barrel into the front trunnion without the proper specialized barrel press equipment that supports the barrel. I have a big press but nothing to properly support the barrel in these high-pressure situations. It would likely warp like a wet noodle if I just kept adding pressure.

I don’t own a machine shop but I am a redneck with a shop. I needed to open up the barrel channel in the trunnion and opted to use an OEM brand brake hone. Why? Because I’ve used these small bore hones in the past for other things and was pretty sure it would work for this too.

I also need to point out that I have no way to accurately measure the barrel or the trunnion so I figured I would remove a bit and try to install the barrel, remove a bit and try, over and over until it went in. The next picture shows my OEM hone (and the Lisle is virtually identical):

This is an OEM Tool brand brake hone and the Lisle unit looks virtually identical.

Take a look at the above picture – by tightening the knurled nut at the base of the spring, you can apply more and more pressure to the 220-grit stones at the end of the arms. (The Lisle tool’s stones are 240 grit purely FYI – not a big difference.) I just used the basic pressure and did not increase it. Life lesson for me years ago – it’s easier to take more material off than it is to put it back on.

I applied cutting oil to the trunnion liberally and then slid the hone in and out with my drill on slow speed. I would do this for a bit, clean stuff, and then tested how far the barrel goes into the trunnion by hand and then keep removing more. This is not the time or place to get impatient.

By the way, OEM makes fine 400 grit stones that you can swap into place and use to polish the interior further if you . I got the job done with the 220 grit stones and silver Permatex anti-seize compound. If I ad the 400 grit stones handy at the time, I would have done so but I did not. Also, be sure to clean out the grit/dust before you try to reinsert your barrel.

My one action photo and it was blurry! You get the idea. Keep it lubed with the cutting oil and keep moving the unit in and out so you are polishing the whole barrel channel.

This is a down and dirty “git ‘er done” approach and will make machinists cringe. I go slow and test — I would push the barrel in, test and the press it back out if need be. [Click here to see how to make a barrel backout tool].

*IF* you see a bur or squished rivet protruding in the trunnion, then carefully grind that down with a Dremel and polish with the hone. Don’t try to do it all with the hone or you will be removing material elsewhere that you may need – the arms are spring loaded and independent so they will go where ever they can. This is a pro and con.

After a couple of tries, the barrel went all the way in with the press. To be safe, I confirmed the head space using real Manson brand 7.62×39 gages (use real gages folks and treat them well – don’t go cheap). The barrel headspaced just fine so I pressed in the pin and finished the rifle up.

Bottom line, a brake hone can help you carefully remove steel from the front trunnion and get a tight fitting barrel to go in. It worked wonders on this 1969 cold warrior that is now ready to go to the range.

The 1969 Polish AKM rebuilt and ready for the range!
The rifle is wearing one of our Polish Tantal/AKM grips as a 922r compliance part – we make them by hand here in Michigan from a glass fiber reinforced polymer.

Click here to learn more and order one of our Polish Tantal/AKM grips.


One of our fire control group retaining plates. that fits all AKMs and rifles that use standard AKM fire control groups.

It also has an ALG fire control group – they are awesome triggers – and one of our fire control group retaining plates. Click here for our fire control group retaining plates.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


How to legally build a Glock compatible pistol using a Polymer80 frame in Michigan

I wrote about this also in my post about starting a Polymer80 build but thought I would break it out for people who just need to find out about this one thing – how to legally build a Glock compatible pistol using a Polymer80 frame in the state of Michigan.

For those of us in Michigan, we know we have some additional laws on pistols that other states do not. To be honest, before I started this project I wasn’t really sure that I could even do this legally so I started researching.

Before I go further, I’d better give the legal disclaimer: I am not a lawyer and this is not legal advice. The procedure I am going to outline is for a non concealed carry permit holders. I do not have a Concealed Pistol License (CPL) and my understanding is that the process is different and easier if you do have a CPL. Making registrations easier is yet another reason that I want to get my CPL this year.

Let’s Get Into The Details

To do this legally in the state of Michigan is actually pretty straightforward. First, you need to go to your local Sheriff and get a pistol purchase permit. I called first to make sure I understood where to go, what I needed to bring and so forth. All they wanted was my drivers license at this point and they did not want me to bring in any thing having to do with the pistol and definitely not the pistol itself.  This is not like the old days when you had to take your pistol in for inspection – you are just picking up forms after they run a background check on you.

The lady I talked to on the phone at the sheriff’s department was very helpful but she wasn’t sure what to do until I told her I was building from an 80% lower. When I asked her what I should do in regards to the manufacturer, model and serial number she recommended that I contact the Michigan State Police firearm records division and for your reference, their number is 517-241-1917

The folks I talked to there on two separate occasions, instructed me to complete the purchase permit form with the maker as “SELF-ASSEMBLED”, model as “NONE” and serial number as “NONE”. I filled out the rest of the information in regards to the caliber, number of shots, barrel length, overall length and whatnot same as always. I then mailed the forms in to the address at the bottom of the form.

My local Sheriff’s department was very helpful and recommended that I wait until I was done with the build because the purchase permit was only valid for 30 days. I confirmed this with the Michigan State Police Firearms Records division and they too were very happy to help.

I wrote this post to get rid of the fear uncertainty and doubt that some people seem to have. You can do this. To be safe, I would urge someone from Michigan to do their homework and confirm my findings so you can legally enjoy your resulting pistols just like I plan to.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon. With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated. Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Polymer80 Glock Build Troubleshooting

If you haven’t heard about Polymer80, they make a number of 80% receivers including some remarkable Glock compatible frames. Now they aren’t just a cheap gimmick – I like the grip angle, the texture and the finger relief that all result in a far better feeling pistol than an actual Glock in my opinion. Now there are haters that say these are not Glocks – that’s fine, they aren’t. Then again, it’s not like we all buy ARs only made by Colt or Armalite either in comparison.

So I have been posting about how to do the builds [Click here for a Glock 17 using the PF940V2 frame post and here for one on Glock 19 using the PF940C frame post]. They are very straight forward, fun and can generate a reliable pistol. Like all things, there can be challenges and troubleshooting your build to understand why the slide is binding, the trigger isn’t resetting and so forth are all things that may happen. Luckily, there are also lots of videos and posts for understanding how to solve the challenges.

Be Sure to Read the Instructions First

I do recommend you read the instructions from Polymer80 before you do your build. If you didn’t read them and are now having challenges, I would recommend you go back and read the good instruction file they wrote and watch the video:

Troubleshooting Videos



Also, Pew Pew Tactical did a nice series of posts on building and troubleshooting Polymer80 builds. Click here to open a new tab and go there.

My Take On Common Issues

  • The slide doesn’t go all the way back: Check that the recoil spring is not catching on the channel you needed to mill out. Check that the slide stop spring is sitting flush and not catching on the spring. Sometimes plastic falls into that channel and keeps it from fully seating. (It would be a good idea to blow your frame out with compressed air to get all the loose plastic out).
  • Trigger not resetting – this is either an issue with how Polymer80 did some of the Rear Rail Modules (RRMs) or how the frame was drilled causing the RRM to move. If this happens, you will need to file a bit off the right side (when looking down at the receiver) of the RRM so the trigger bar doesn’t hit it. I’d also recommend checking that there aren’t burs/machining imperfections on any of the trigger’s metal parts that might cause binding.
  • Slide not cycling smoothly – The rail modules should be equal height. Again, there may have been an issue with drilling causing an alignment issue. See if you can bend/adjust the rail modules so they line up.
  • Trigger feels gritty – remove the trigger and polish all metal surfaces. Blow out the pistol and trigger areas to ensure there isn’t any plastic debris. Expect it to take a couple hundred rounds to smooth out.
  • Action feels gritting – again, polish everything. I like the small rubberized polishing bits for the Dremel as well as working with sandpaper up to 2000 grit. Always remember that your goal is to smooth and polish, not to remove a ton of material.

So, I hope this helps you out. Polymer80 Glock frames are well engineered and do work. There may be some issues you need to work through due to how you build the pistol and the parts you use but view overcoming them as part of your journey and don’t give up. The end result is definitely work it.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon. With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated. Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Please note that any images shown were extracted from the videos and remain the property of their respective owner(s).


Glock 27 Raptor Series Slide w/ Std Sight Black G27 Gen 3 940SC Polymer 80

$209.99
End Date: Sunday Sep-22-2019 12:06:02 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $209.99
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Glock 17 OEM Style Slide Std Sights Black G17 Gen 3 940v2 940CL Polymer 80 OEM

$159.99
End Date: Sunday Sep-22-2019 12:19:12 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $159.99
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AlphaWolf Slide for Glock 21 Polymer80 Gen 3 w/ Dovetail and OEM Rear Serrations

$199.95
End Date: Monday Sep-30-2019 14:06:39 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $199.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

CUSTOM SLIDE | STAINLESS STEEL BLACK CERAKOTE - FOR GLOCK 19 GEN 1,2,3,Polymer80

$150.00
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 14:52:00 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $150.00
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Polymer80 CPCTREDBL Glock Gen1-4 Compatible Red/Black Curved Trigger

$95.00
End Date: Friday Oct-11-2019 2:03:33 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $95.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

CUSTOM SERRATTED SLIDE FOR GLOCK 19 GEN1,2,3,Poly80 | RMR Cut For Trijicon

$185.00
End Date: Thursday Oct-3-2019 22:05:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $185.00
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Polymer80 PF940v2,C&CL Magwell - High Profile - ISLE MFG

$25.99
End Date: Tuesday Oct-1-2019 7:12:54 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Full Replacement Parts Kit For Gen-3 Glock 17 Polymer-80 Spectre PF940-v2 LPK

$91.97
End Date: Sunday Oct-20-2019 17:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $91.97
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Bare Slide - For Glock 19 GEN 1,2,3, & Polymer80 Stainless Steel - BRAND NEW

$145.00
End Date: Thursday Oct-10-2019 15:39:36 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $145.00
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Wheeler Tool Makes AR Trigger Guard Installation or Removal a Breeze

I was asked how I install AR trigger guards to minimize scratching up the receiver or even risking snapping an “ear” off.  On one hand, you can use a solid backing block to support the ear and then use a roll pin punch to drive in the pin.  That’s what I used to do but it’s a headache to be honest.  As some of you may know, I have a tremor that makes fine motor stuff a headache so finding methods that are simpler really helps me get work done.

This is a Brownells Billet 7075 aluminum trigger guard (078-101-164) and it has a bulge to accomodate gloves.  The set screw goes in the end with a blind hole.  The roll pin goes through the end that is drilled all the way through.

A few years ago I started using the Wheeler trigger guard tool and it works great.  Here’s the link to it at Amazon – click here.

This is how I use it:

  1.  Install the end of the triggerguard that uses the set screw.  That’s the end with the blind hole – the roll pin goes in the end where a hole goes all the way through.
  2. I lightly oil the pin to make things easy and tap it with a small hammer just to get it started.
  3. I then use the Wheeler tool with the shorter starter pin.  The starter pin has a nipple that centers it on the roll pin.
  4. Keep the parts aligned and turn the knob to drive the pin in.
  5. Stop when you have inserted the pin – it’s that easy.

Note, Scott Igert of Modern Antique Firearms recommends you put a business card or something between the frame and your receiver to protect it from scratching.

It has two tips – here you can see one installed and one stored in the frame of the tool.  The short one is for installing and the long one is for pushing a roll pin out.
Simply stop once the pin is flush.

Note, I actually have one from another maker also.    I’m holding it in my hand.  It does the same conceptually but is heavier made.  I’ve built probably 4-6 ARs with the Wheeler unit and it seems to be holding up fine.  The other is a Little Crow unit from Brownells for about $39.99 + S&H and its built like a tank but you do pay more for it.

Little Crow Trigger Guard Pin Pusher

I hope this helps you out.  


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Assembling a Beryl-ish AK From a WBP Kit – Part 1

It’s been a couple of years since I last had time to build an AK and definitely felt the need to catch up. Contrary to what some may think, the majority of guys who like building guns aren’t trying to bypass laws – they genuinely enjoy it. Think of it as being similar to building a model but this one can go “bang” 🙂

I think I got bit by the AK builder bug in 2006 after reading an article in Shotgun News by Steven Matthews about building AKs. The rest, as they say, is history. At the time, you could buy a kit for $50 if you shopped around then after the barrel ban went into effect, the prices just went up and up. Now, with the advent of US and foreign barrels plus businesses that are selling kits with headspaced barrel assemblies, prices are relatively affordable. They are still far higher than years ago, but you can build your own entry level AK for about $500 and then the prices just go up and up.

At this point I have to answer the question “Why do it when you can buy a complete AK rifle for the same amount or less?” In short, you get to control as much of the quality as you want is the answer. Like anything, someone can always figure out how to make an AK cheaper but that doesn’t mean better. Frankly, some of the US-made AKs are total pieces of shit if you will pardon my French and complete honesty. The internet abounds with stories of busted US made parts and hack assembly jobs. Really, the only AKs I would recommend are going to come from custom or semi-custom shops like Two Rivers Arms, Jim Fuller’s Rifle Dynamics, Jim Roberts, Krebs and so forth.

Certainly there are good foreign made AKs but even they can have quality control moments. Zastava can make excellent AKs if they choose to is one example. Russian Molots are my all time favorite but they are banned from further import though there seems to be a ton of them still for sale and prices haven’t gone up much. Bulgarian AKs can be good and that is one reason K-Var can charge what they do. One country with a long AK history that not all American’s know about is Poland. It would be cool if they start selling more models into the US- market but at least Arms of America is bringing in a wide variety of kits right now.

So that brings me full circle. Why do I want to build vs. buy? Because I like building them and I can make an AK do just about anything I want it to at this point. I’ve done rivet, screw and weld builds. I’ve built Romanian, Hungarian, Polish and Yugoslavian AKs and RPKs. I’ve done traditional looking builds and over-the-top “tacticool mall ninja this thing is way too heavy” builds. Seriously, I kind of went nuts with a Hungarian AMD-65 about 10 years ago and put on a quad rail with a red dot, laser, light vertical fore grip and bipod. The thing was so heavy that it literally taught me that just because you can add something on does not mean you should – it takes time and energy to bring something that heavy up into position and also to stop it once on target.

I’m not saying I know everything. I’m just saying I know my way around the AK platform well enough to build what I want. The hardest thing for me is finding the time between my day job, family and Ronin’s Grips. So, an interesting opportunity presented itself because I had Polish Beryl furniture, Childers Guns sells Polish receivers and Arms of America (AoA) had a cool kit for sale. It was a WBP 7.62×39 kit with a Polish chrome-lined Cold Hammer Forged (CHF) barrel that is arguably, and it will start arguments, one of the best AKM-style barrels you can buy right now. The kit included a solid-steel Bery-style optics rail that goes over the dust cover and for about $670. This appealed to me because I already owned the Beryl handguards, was getting ready to release our version of the modern Beryl grip and, separately, AofA was selling a collapsing Beryl stock that is a unique looking beast for sure.

So, I got the wheels in motion and ordered the kit stock plus some translucent WBP mags from AoA, a RRD-4C brake from JMac customs, an ALG trigger and a Vortex Crossfire Red Dot. I ordered a completed 100% receiver from Childers Guns and had it sent to my FFL and good friend, Scott Igert, of Modern Antique Firearms.

Once it all arrived, it was time to start.


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Video: Building AK47 (AKM) with Definitive Arms by AK Operators Union, Local 47-74

          

Back in 2015, Rob Ski went to Definitive Arms to build an AK.  In this video, they really get into the details of building an AK and anyone regardless of experience level is bound to learn something.  You can watch in this 36:13 video as Rob builds his AK under the expert tutelage of the guys at Definitive Arms.

There are some great tips in here for riveting, getting the barrel blocks on square, etc.  Definitely worth your time.  After watching all these build videos, I really wish I had the time to build another.


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Video: How to build an AK-47, AK-74, AKM. Complete video tutorial by bfgmovies — Best Rivet and Virgin Barrel Build Video I’ve Seen!

Folks, once in a while I find out a snap judgement I made is very wrong.  I was watching AK Build videos on Youtube and ran across this video with a very young man with long hair and anime shirt sitting down to talk about building an AK.  I almost snorted because it must be some kind of a gag.  Within the first five minutes I realized this young man was very knowledgeable, articulate and very capable at demonstrating how to build an AK.  I was floored.  I almost missed this because my snap judgement was so off.  Wow.

This young man assembled a 55:59 long video showing you how to do an AK build with a manufactured receiver using a virgin barrel and he explains things along the way.  To give you an idea of the quality, this video was posted in May 2013, has had 104,441 views, 1,114 thumbs up approvals and only 74 thumbs down.  Folks, that is remarkable.

I am sharing a number of photos from the video to get you to realize this is really good.  He steps you through everything including aligning the blocks on the barrels, the barrel to the receiver, drilling pin holes, headspacing, setting rivets and then final assembly, including installation of the fire control group (FCG), function testing, installing the furniture, and finally winding up with applying Alumahyde II from Brownells as the finish.  I’d honestly say it is the best AK build video I have seen thus far that takes you all the way through the process.  This is really worth your time.

P.S.  The music and anime at the end is a nice touch 🙂

If you want to learn more, check out these other two video by bfgmovies:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 6 (the last part) by usmcdoc14

This is his last video in the six part series.  He recaps what he did and shares with you some of his tips for sandblasting such as putting foam earplugs in the chamber.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:


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Video: How to build an AK47 from scratch part 4 by usmcdoc14

In this fourth installment, you can see usmcdoc14’s welding results and he discusses how to trim the top rails.  Note, a lot of flats and receivers now have pre-cut top rails so you only need to trim them if they look like what you see in the video – big, wide and straight.

Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:


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