Tag Archives: Yugo

Converting a Milled M70 Front End for a Sheet Metal Receiver Using Screws

Let me open this article with a comment for people new to building AKs – the best proven method is to use rivets.  The Soviets did a lot of testing and the best mechanical join of the forged trunnions to sheet metal was a mechanical rivet.  To this day, all commercial and military AKs are built using rivets.  In my journeys, I have built AKs using welds, screws and rivets – all have pros and cons.  What would I build an AK with that I care about?  The answer is easy – rivets.  This blog post documents my building a prototype using screws.  Has it held up to casual non-military non-full-auto use?  Yes.  What would I recommend to you to build your AK?  The answer is rivets.


In a previous post I described taking a milled stub and welding it to a sheet metal receiver.  Another approach is to drill, tape and use alloy screws.  So, let’s talk about that a bit.  I did this build back in 2010 also.  I actually still have the rifle and it’s one of my most reliable AKs.  It takes about any ammo I stuff in it and I don’t recall ever having any issues.

For those of you who are wondering why I didn’t do rivets – I was bored and wanted to try something different plus this is a range gun and not something mission critical.  Here we are 7 years later and it’s still doing fine – no cracks, no loose screws … but it isn’t stressed either.  When in doubt, do rivets or a milled gun.

Also, bear in mind that the front trunnion was made from the milled receiver stub so screws made it real easy.

In terms of this build, I milled the trunnion down the same as I did for the weld build.   I used my Hungarian AMD trunnion as an approximate guide for locating the holes and used two #10 screws for the front top and a 1/4″ for the rear.  In both cases, I opted for national fine.  10-32 and 1/4-28.  So, for 10-32, I used a #21 drill bit to make the hole  and for the 1/4-28, I used a #3.

For drill locating and drilling the receiver holes, I used the AK-Builder trunnion rivet locating jig.  You just put the trunnion on the jig, locate the hole, slide the receiver on and drill the hole.

Now for tapping, being square is a good idea.  I squared my table to the drill press’s chuck and used it to hold the tap.  I use Tap Magic cutting fluid to lubricate everything.

For the screws, I used alloy button heads and secured them with red thread locker.  I reached in with a Dremel and ground down protruding screws.

So there’s the front.  I used an air riveter to do the trigger guard.

End Result

Here’s a link to the AK-Builder Trunnion Hole Jig.

 


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Converting a milled M70 receiver stub to a stamped receiver front trunnion using plug welds

I miss building AKs – I never have the time any more.  At rate, some years back I wound up with two Yugo M70 front milled stubs, and then decided to convert the rifle to a stamped receiver because I liked working with AK-Builder flats.  So, in the spirit of trying something new, I decided to convert a stub to a trunnion and plug weld it in place vs. trying to machine the rivet seats inside.

Yes, I’ve heard tons of people say not to weld them together and that rivets are better.  Yes, rivets are better and I have done many of them.  Have I ever had problems with a weld build where I filled the holes I drilled with plugs, stayed away from the locking lugs and was careful with the heat?  No, I have not had any problems.  I have an AMD-65 with tons of rounds through it that still runs fine.  My thinking is that I am not firing full auto, not using grenades, don’t use this in combat … I’m not really stressing it.  What would I use for a reliable build vs. a test like this?  I’d use rivets.

Why the big caveat in the previous paragraph – I get one or two emails a year from a purist telling me that what I did was evil, that I am a clueless half-wit, etc. Folks, innovation happens by trying new things. I have built more AKs than most – using rivets mainly because they do work best. There are a ton of reasons why rivets are best for joining forged blocks to sheet metal.

In terms of welds, do I understand the risk of destroying the heat treat in the locking lug area, the risk of causing embrittlement around the plug welds, that the Soviets explored this and dropped the idea due to cracking? Yes, I do and tried it anyway because I wanted to explore how to compensate. So, don’t send me hate mail me because I will not bother responding. When I first shared this, three guys immediately sent me hate mails and unfriended me – I did not lose sleep about it.

If you want to try and experiment, go for it. Should you do this with an AK build that you want to be historically accurate or plan to use heavily perhaps even under full auto, then the answer is “no – don’t do it”.

The build I am sharing photos of was done in 2009.  I found the photos and thought you might like to see them.

Here are the front stubs.

When you look at the front stub, you can see readily hiw it could become a trunnion.

Here’s a Hungarian AMD trunnion next to it.

Here are the stubs from a couple of angles.  I already used my bandsaw to cut the top one

Ok, time to make some chips.  It’s secured an I’m milling the OD under the top shelf of the trunnion that sticks out over the receiver:

I didn’t have anything to cut the slot with for my mill so I clamped a straight edge and then ran a Dremel wheel down it over and over until I got the depth and width needed for the stamped receiver to to slide into:

My theory was that by drilling holes and filling them via plug welds that I could lock the receiver into place.  Thus, I drilled holes for the plug welds both in the stamped receiver and into the newly made trunnion:

The plug welds were done with a Harbor Freight 220V MIG running ArCo2 gas and .030 wire.  I let it cool down after each weld and was careful not to pour on a ton of heat.  Notice the relatively big weld area to distribute the load.

I then sanded it all down with a flap sander.  The back was just a regular M72 rear trunnion that I found at R-Guns. I never had problems with cracking, etc.  The experiment seemed to work for a casual use semi-automatic rifle.

That’s all I have as far as photos go.  I hope maybe it gives you some ideas.

Writing this makes me wish I had time to build another AK but it’s back to our grips and handguards 🙂


Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.

If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.



Two Rivers Arms Built Yugo M72B1

Once in a while I get to have fun.  For years I have worked with Two Rivers Arms making their grips so I knew they did a good job.  Well over a year ago, I bought two Apex M72B1 kits to have as prototypes but never had time to build them.  I must admit I have fun building rifles but the time just isn’t there any more.  So, given our new M72 handguards were almost ready, I called up Tim at Two Rivers and asked if they could build an M72B1 that looked like it came straight from the factory and that is exactly what they did.  Here are the amazing results of their efforts:

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Note, the following is our Yugo M70/M72 grip:

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Let me give you a quick run down of the parts you see above and a few you don’t:

  • Yugo M72B1 kit from Apex with a new Green Mountain barrel
  • Nodak Spud NDS-9 receiver
  • New virgin stock set from R-Guns
  • One of our Yugo M70 pistol grips
  • Tapco G2 FCG
  • RSA FCG retainer plate (I hate the shepherd hooks)
  • Real Yugo BHO Magazine

Two Rivers did the assembly, engraving, bluing and hooked me up with the right muzzle nut and cleaning rod.  This rifle looks simply amazing.  If you ever are looking for a builder, give them a shout … now if I can just afford one of their Tabuk DMRs some day 🙂  Tim, Shawn & Ed – thank you!!

Two Rivers Arms is at:  http://tworiversarms.com/ 

Our pistol grip is online at:  http://shop.roninsgrips.com/Yugoslavian-M70-M72-M85-M92-Grip-Yugo-M70-M72-M92.htm


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Comparison Photos of Yugo M70 vs M72 Lower Handguards

Folks ask me if the Yugo M70 and M72 use the same handguards – in short, they do not.  The upper gas tube cover is the same across all models of Yugos I have seen but the lower handguard on the M72 is very short and rectangular.  This is especially true when it is next to the long sleek tapered M70 handguard that is also used on the M76 and M77 rifles.  By the way, please ignore the green clay and mess – I was making molds when I took these photos:

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The other unique factor is the ferrule.  Yugo ferrules are very hard to find in the US.  With other countries’ ferrules you may find them for sale by a vendor who did a bulk purchase, but that is never the case with the Yugo M70 ferrule.  We actually found a college student with a talent for making dies and an interest in Yugos who makes replica ferrules for the M70, M76, M77, M85 and M92 handguards.  Now here is the rub – the M72 uses a bigger unique ferrule and you will not find them unless someone sells a handguard with the ferrule installed or has pried one off a handguard for some reason.

These photos show the smaller M70 ferrule by the larger M72:

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Check out Len’s Yugo M85 With Our Quick Takedown Pin!

Len’s Yugo M85 is looking pretty sweet!

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Here’s what he has to say about his weapon:

Tungsten gray is the cerkote, Sight is a see all {from tandemkross}, key mod rail ,covers, and flash hider {Midwest Industries}, Sling adapter {RFT}, Inforce light, THE Pin Ronin’s grips, dust cover rail Storm Werkz. AR mag adapter  PAP 85, 5.56 Will let you know how it shoots and how the sight works {at least I can see it}

If you are interested, we have a “how to” blog post outlining how to install it

If you would like to buy one, they are available via our online store


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Joseph’s Sweet M77 With Our Bulgy Grip

Joseph’s Zastava M77 looks sweet!  I really like how it turned out!!

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Jeff’s Yugo M70 Underfolder with our Bulged Handguard Set

This is Jeff’s Yugo M70 underfolder with our bulged Yugo M70 handguard set:

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The handguard is based on a Zastava design that you will see on some of their import models.  Our design has a reinforced bottom and uses an extra thick gas tube cover based on a wood M70 handguard set.  The gas tube cover needs the Yugo gas tube retaining clip for a snug fit.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.



What is a Ferrule on Yugo and AK Rifles?

A ferrule is a metal end cap found on some wood grips and handguards to protect the end grain of the wood from being hammered and splitting open.  They were used on different country’s weapons and are usually not interchangeable between countries.  For example, Bulgarian and Yugo ferrules are different.

Near and dear to me are the metal ferrules on Yugoslav / Zastava wood lower handguards.  The following photo shows a M92 lower and the black metal cap is the ferrule.  This ferrule does not fit everything Yugo – just the M70, M85/92, and M77.  The M72 and M76 are unique sizes.

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You have three options when you need a ferrule:  1) Find a used one and this is real hard – try posting in the Marketplace of http://www.akfiles.com and see if they have one.  2) Buy a replica ferrule from us or 3) Simply pry the old ferrule off, put it on the new handguard and the squeeze the tabs shut again with a pair of pliers.

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Note if you are putting it on one of our plastic handguards either just set it on it with the ears closed or glue it in place.  Absolutely do not try to squeeze the ears shut — the little metal divots will not dig into our plastic and you risk snapping the handguard tabs.  Again, either slide it on or glue it in place with something like rubber glue or Goop that you can later remove if you want.  Epoxy works too but it is pretty permanent.

For example, I just slid the ferrule on the M70 bulged handguard in the next photo.

We manufacture ferrules that fit the Yugo/Zastava M70, M77, M85 and M92 lower handguards. Note, they are specific to those models and will not fit other nationalities or models.

Click here to visit our store with the ferrules for sale.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.