Th e Hungarians made an interesting variant of the AK known as the AMD-65. It had a folding stock, short barrel, unique muzzle brake, a front sheet metal handguard that is lower only, a gas tube that doesn’t have retainers for a gas tube cover (because it doesn’t useone) and, finally, the AMD-65 used two unique shaped grips in the front and the rear for better control while firing.
This is Joe’s AMD-65 and you can see he has a rifle-length barrel, wrapped the folder and added two of our AMD-65 grips in Dark Russian Plum. The grips have our blasted matte finish that makes them non-slip even when wet.
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This is John’s Zastava O-PAP. You can tell because it notably does not have the flip up grenade sign on the gas block. It definitely has clean lines and you can see the bulged trunnion that is another clear indicator that this is the heavier duty O-PAP and not the N-PAP.
John’s rifle has one of our Yugo M70 grips on it. The Yugoslavians and Zastava saved money by using this unique ergonomic grip on a number of their models including the various favors of the M70, M72, M85, and M92.
John’s grip is colored black and has our matte/blasted finish for a sure “hold” even when wet.
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Hey folks, if you are looking for an affordable book on how to assemble an AR rifle that is step-by-step with a ton of photos – check out Rob Reaser’s book “AR-15 Rifle Builder’s Manual: An Illustrated, Step-by-Step Guide to Assembling the AR-15 Rifle”. I bought this because I have the Amazon Kindle app on my Samsung tablet and the book was real cheap so I figured why not – I might pick up something new.
This book is aimed at the novice and, to be clear, is an assembly guide. It is not aimed at engineers or guys who want to really get into the guts from an armorer’s perspective. The author literally walks a beginner through everything. I’m not at that stage any more but I could really appreciate his attention to detail.
I know a lot of guys are intimidated by the thought of assembling an AR rifle but Mr. Reaser really does a nice job of stepping you through everything. So, if you want to build your first AR – get either the Kindle ($7.99) or print edition of this book ($13.49).
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We have a new grip model based on the Russian AK-12. Our grip has a very similar outward appearance and profile to the Russian grip but is cast solid and is made here in Michigan by us. As a result, it counts as a 922r compliance part also.
The rifle is my personal FM-AK47-21 that has the cool Molot RPK side folder, a Chaos rail, the superb Vortex Sparc II red dot optic, and a Chaos rail and a JMAC RRD-4C brake.
I wear XL-size gloves and the grip feels very good in my hand and puts the rifle into a very natural position. In looking at the top of the grip, I think it will fit any AKM rifle or a pistol with a typical grip nut and screw. I think it would take some fitting to go on a Yugo with its unique riveted grip strap.
This grip is available for ordering now if you are interested – click here.
6/29/23 – We still make these and needed to change the design slightly. The “ears” that cradled the receivers were cracking due to slight differences in receiver outer diameters, the shape of the bend and that our plastic doesn’t really like to bend. So, if you go to the product page in our store you will notice the current model has the ears sanded off. The grip sits on the receiver like other grips and no longer cradles/straddles the receiver/
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Note, the Crossfire CR-RD1 red dot optic replaced the Sparc II shown in the photo. I am using a Crossfire CF-RD1 on another rifle and really like it.
Mark’s SBR sure looks great! He used the original wood furniture and one of our Yugo M70/M92 grips with a black blasted finish.
Here is a link to our grip’s order page – click here to open it in a new tab.
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Plain and simple, it ran like a top. We did not have one single problem of any kind. We were running surplus aluminum mags from Robert RTG. The ammo was Prvi Partizan (PPU) .308 M80 145gr FMJ. I’ve had great luck with PPU ammo over the years and have run a variety of their calibers and loads. This .308 ammo comes in a heavy plastic sealed “battle pack” that SGAmmo sells. If you don’t know SG Ammo, they are a great ammo supplier that is a family run business. I buy most of my ammo from them and have nothing but good things to say about them.
We sighted the Vortex 1-6×24 Strike Eagle scope in at at about 25 yards and then just had fun. We weren’t shooting for accuracy but were having fun shooting “zombies” as we called them with the big Splatterburst 18×24 silhouette targets that I really like.
This time out, I was using my new Howard Leight electronic ear muffs. These are cool because they have directional sound amplification for normal sounds – like talking with your friends. When you shoot, they immediately cut the sound off and protect your ears. This is a real nice feature for me as I can’t hear a thing when I wear ear muffs due to my hearing loss and have to take them off to talk to someone. At any rate, these Howard Leights have a great reputation and I must say that I am very happy with them.
One of my brother-in-laws was wearing my new MPOW headphones and thought they did a really good job on cutting down the sound. These are a bargain price at Amazon and work way better than my old cheap Silencios in terms of hearing protection.
Now we did have a funny lesson learned – see how short the barrel is relative to the Caldwell front bag? Yeah, if you get the muzzle brake over that bag and fire, it will rain some kind of brown pebbles (corncob media maybe?) down on you as the muzzle blast shreds the top of the bag 🙂 I have to confess, I am the one who did it and had to use duct tape to seal the top up so we could use it the rest of the day.
The whole point of the range visit was for me any my two brother-in-laws to have fun and function test the PDWR. It performed admirably – neither of them are shooters and, for Jamie, this was his first time shooting anything – I think he did great.
Not one single problem – no feed issues, no ejection issues – it just performed great through about 200 rounds.
At any rate, I did learn a few things:
It upheld the good opinion I have of PTR firearms.
The SOB brace can handle .308 recoil just fine and lines the eye up for the scope great.
As expected, the Vortex scope was great.
The weight of the PDWR absorbs quite a bit of recoil making it a pleasant shooter but there is still recoil that moves you off target with any kind of rapid fire.
The muzzle brake does an okay job but I am going to check into alternatives to cut the recoil down further. The bird cage design is okay but there are definitely better designs out there. The PDWR has a 5/8″-24 TPI threading so there are definitely options.
The PDWR handguard moves forward and backward more than I care for. I am going to experiment on tightening it up or either moving to a DTAC handguard or back to the original PTR handguard. Note – the PDWR uses a MP5-style handguard.
Bottom line, I am very happy with the PDWR and plan to work with it some more on the above plus see how it does as I work my way back to 100 yards. Everything in this sessions was at 25 yards or less and I am curious how it performs as the distance grows. I would recommend the PDWR to anyone looking for a short HK91/G3-type roller lock for short distance use.
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The last step in preparation for my first trip to the range was to clean and lubricate the PTR PDWR. One thing I learned with my for PTR was that proper lubrication makes a world of difference and I could tell in working the PDWR that it definitely need lubricating so here’s what I did.
Also, if you need any parts diagrams or more detailed questions, be sure to read the HK G3 Armorer’s Manual.
In general, you know you need to lubricate all moving parts of the firearm such as the trigger and bolt. So let’s start with the trigger.
Lubricating the Trigger Pack:
I employ a very old rule of thumb – If it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it. That simple rule has helped me take care of a ton of rifles and pistols over the years and can help you too. [Click here for more on lubricating a firearm in general]
I used a small squeeze bottle filled with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 to reach in and lubricate all places where a part rotated on a pin. I then worked the various parts of the trigger pack to make sure the oil go to where it needed to go.I used Tetra Gun Grease to liberally coat the top of the hammer.
Lubricating the Bolt Assembly:
Now the HK bolt assembly is involved and the following is a diagram from the HK G3 Armorer’s Manual:
In short, I oiled all of the internals but did not fully disassemble the bolt. I put the assembly into a non-marring vise, twisted the bolt head off and then reached in with the squeeze bottle to lubricate the rollers, locking piece, firing pin, etc.
After that I applied a thin coat of Tetra Grease to the bolt carrier body and put more on the bottom and sides of the bolt where it would be making contact with the receiver and riding over the hammer.
Cleaned the Barrel:
One thing I always do before heading to the range is to clean the barrel. If you look down in most, you will see varying levels of crud ranging from oil to dust to stuff left over from machining. In the case of the PDWR, the barrel looked pretty good but I still wanted to clean it.
Over the years I have tried all kinds of different approaches to cleaning barrels. The fast and easy one I use now on non-precision firearms that just need a touch up is a bore snake. These things are caliber specific and give you everything you need in an “all in one approach”. I spray CLP on the snake and down the barrel then I drop the weighted cord down the barrel and pull the snake on through. I repeat this until the bore is shiny bright.
Note, there are a ton of brands including cheap generic imports. I’ve used Hoppes and Sage & Braker brands with no problems at all.
At this point the PDWR was ready for the range. The action felt and sounded good.
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