Category Archives: Uzi Builds

How to build legal semi-automatic Uzi pistols and rifles.

Tips on Finding Decent Gunsmithing Tools on eBay

One of the challenges when starting out working on guns is building your tool collection.  It’s hard to find cost effective tools so you wind up making do with stuff, creating tools ad hoc, etc.  Interestingly enough, this is where eBay just might help.  While I’m not happy with their anti-gun position, there are a lot of tools that pop up there – ranging from low-end Chinese stuff all the way to some beautiful vintage tools.

So, I want to show some example searches with 20 live feeds from each section:

Gunsmith and Gunsmithing Tools

The trick is in the searching.  For example, here are the top 20 matches for gunsmith tools or gunsmithing tools and you will probably see a mix:

Wheeler Fine Gunsmith Tools SAE/Metric/Hex/Torx P-Handle Driver Set: 1081957

$59.95
End Date: Monday Feb-4-2019 11:49:44 PST
Buy It Now for only: $59.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Upper Vise block gunsmithing gunsmith tools use with barrel nut wrench

$14.99
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 10:06:49 PST
Buy It Now for only: $14.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Universal Firearm Durable Bench Block Gunsmith Handgun Gunsmithing Tools Pistols

$17.29
End Date: Saturday Jan-19-2019 12:16:10 PST
Buy It Now for only: $17.29
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Brass 7 pc Precision Roll Drift Pin Gunsmithing Tool Punch set Made in USA

$19.95
End Date: Saturday Jan-19-2019 20:06:09 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

1911 Auto .45 ACP Barrel Bushing Wrench Gunsmithing Tools Aluminum B

$7.99
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 21:48:51 PST
Buy It Now for only: $7.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Brownells Bolt Body Heat Sink Gunsmithing Tools

$12.37 (2 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Jan-20-2019 12:47:59 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

Brass Muzzle Lap 5/16"- Gunsmith Tools - Rifle - Pistol Crowning - Lapping Crown

$7.95
End Date: Sunday Jan-27-2019 6:37:53 PST
Buy It Now for only: $7.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - 4 Brass Muzzle Laps - Rifle Or Pistol Crowning - Lapping Crown

$21.95
End Date: Saturday Jan-26-2019 15:02:32 PST
Buy It Now for only: $21.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Universal Firearm Durable Bench Block Gunsmith Handgun Gunsmithing Tools Pistols

$17.33
End Date: Sunday Jan-27-2019 8:50:23 PST
Buy It Now for only: $17.33
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

308 .308 Upper Vise Block & Barrel Removal System Gunsmith Tools

$19.95
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 5:22:06 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - 2 Aluminum Muzzle Laps - Rifle Or Pistol Crowning-Lapping Crown

$8.99
End Date: Saturday Jan-26-2019 20:15:49 PST
Buy It Now for only: $8.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

gunsmith tools MGW REVOLVER FRAME WRENCH +1 INSERT FOR COLT DA E

$160.00
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 9:40:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $160.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools 5 Brass Muzzle Laps-Rifle Or Pistol Crowning Kit - Lapping Crown

$33.95
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 10:41:33 PST
Buy It Now for only: $33.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

RC | Gunsmith File Set Tools 18pc Gunsmith Tools – Rasp Round File Diamond Files

$37.99
End Date: Friday Jan-18-2019 11:47:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $37.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmithing Tools

$80.00
End Date: Thursday Jan-24-2019 13:19:05 PST
Buy It Now for only: $80.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Pin Punch Set Gunsmith Tools Pilot Brass Steel Rifle Shotgun Watch Repair Kit

$29.99
End Date: Sunday Feb-3-2019 15:32:24 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Brass Muzzle Lap 5/16" Gunsmith Tools - Rifle Lap - Pistol Lap - Lapping Crown

$7.90
End Date: Monday Feb-11-2019 11:49:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $7.90
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - 3 Brass Muzzle Laps - Rifle Or Pistol Crowning - Lapping Crown

$20.95
End Date: Thursday Jan-24-2019 10:40:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $20.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools-4 Brass Muzzle Laps-Rifle Or Pistol Crowning Kit - Lapping Crown

$24.95
End Date: Saturday Feb-9-2019 16:22:06 PST
Buy It Now for only: $24.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Hammer Multi Tool With Hammer Gunsmithing Tools Woodworking Watch New

$24.17
End Date: Friday Jan-18-2019 7:28:55 PST
Buy It Now for only: $24.17
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Of course there are brands I will steer away from such as NCStar and others that I will look closer at such as Brownells, Lyman, Tipton, Weaver, etc.  I also read the ratings of the seller.  If a seller has a good rating and more than 30 sales, that’s a good sign.  Less than that and you are taking a gamble.

Vintage Gunsmith Tools

“Vintage” seems to be a popular term for “used”.  You tend to find a lot of unique stuff that was made by a gunsmith to fit a special need as well as high-quality tools that were made with care vs. mass produced.  Be careful though.  I’ll zoom into the photos as much as I can plus look at the seller’s description and the rating of the seller to try and decide if the tools are in good shape or beat to death.

Vintage Craftsman Vise Pipe Vice Old Tool Gunsmith Anvil Steampunk Machinist

$189.00
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 12:23:42 PST
Buy It Now for only: $189.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Craftsman Vise Pipe Vice Old Tool Gunsmith Anvil Steampunk Machinist

$179.00
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 20:09:20 PST
Buy It Now for only: $179.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage 566? Vise Anvil Gunsmith Jeweler Machinist 9lbs.+ large

$59.99
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 6:25:40 PST
Buy It Now for only: $59.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Versa-Vise Will-Burt Co. Gunsmithing Vise Orrville Ohio

$129.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Friday Jan-18-2019 17:18:04 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

2 Antique Vintage 1.5” table vise old Jewelers gunsmith hobby tool Marshall

$149.99
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 6:08:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $149.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Small Clamp on Vise, Jewelry, Gunsmithing, Crafts, w/Anvil

$14.97 (0 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Jan-20-2019 8:13:59 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

Vintage Gunsmith Vise

$30.00
End Date: Friday Jan-25-2019 10:56:40 PST
Buy It Now for only: $30.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Gunsmith or jewelers clamp-on 2 1/2" bench vise

$44.99
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 13:21:38 PST
Buy It Now for only: $44.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Small Clamp-on Vise Jewelry Making Crafts Gun Smith Hobbies

$14.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Jan-19-2019 18:09:56 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

Vtg Old Craftsman Vise Large Pipe Anvil Steampunk Machinist Knife Tool Gunsmith

$75.00
End Date: Thursday Jan-24-2019 13:06:50 PST
Buy It Now for only: $75.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage HAND HELD VISE Gunsmith Jeweler Tool 1 " Wide Jaws

$24.45
End Date: Tuesday Feb-5-2019 11:48:15 PST
Buy It Now for only: $24.45
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage 2" precision table vise old craftsman gunsmith hobby tool

$39.99
End Date: Monday Jan-21-2019 9:59:13 PST
Buy It Now for only: $39.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

VINTAGE CRAFTSMAN CLAMP VISE 3" JAWS NO. 5246-2 MADE IN THE USA GUN SMITH WOOD

$29.95
End Date: Monday Feb-11-2019 12:49:33 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Die filer cast iron table jeweler machinist gunsmith tool collectible

$349.99
End Date: Wednesday Feb-13-2019 4:23:45 PST
Buy It Now for only: $349.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Peugeot Freres Hand Vise 1'' Jaws Jeweler Watchmaker Gunsmith France

$74.99
End Date: Thursday Jan-31-2019 15:03:55 PST
Buy It Now for only: $74.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vtg 5" Small Table Jeweler Hobby Watchmaker Gunsmith Anvil Vise 1 3/4" Jaws Nice

$29.99
End Date: Saturday Jan-19-2019 14:45:24 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

MAKE OFFER! Vintage Rotating Double Jaw Vise Clamp Jeweler Watchmaker Gunsmith

$100.00
End Date: Saturday Feb-2-2019 13:33:03 PST
Buy It Now for only: $100.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Gunsmith Vise

$35.00
End Date: Friday Jan-25-2019 10:56:40 PST
Buy It Now for only: $35.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vtg COLUMBIAN No-44 Vise Pipe Anvil Steampunk Machinist Knife Tool Gunsmith 4"

$61.50
End Date: Tuesday Jan-22-2019 14:33:14 PST
Buy It Now for only: $61.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vtg V60 Jeweler's Vise Bench Mount Gunsmith Hobby Clock Watch 1 1/2" Jaws

$17.99
End Date: Monday Jan-28-2019 16:38:06 PST
Buy It Now for only: $17.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Small Bench Vise 1-1/2" No Mark Rubber Jaws Jewelers Gunsmiths

$29.99
End Date: Sunday Feb-3-2019 20:07:15 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

VINTAGE JEWELERS / GUNSMITH'S CLAMP ON BENCH VISE 1 & 1/2 IN JAWS MADE IN JAPAN

$19.99
End Date: Saturday Feb-9-2019 18:00:36 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Small Bench Vise Swivel Base, Jewelers, Gunsmith, General Use / Cast 3”

$32.00
End Date: Thursday Jan-24-2019 4:03:53 PST
Buy It Now for only: $32.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Used Gunsmith Tools

“Used” is still a popular term and is worth checking also.  Bear in mind the cautions I gave under vintage.

gunsmith tools MGW REVOLVER FRAME WRENCH +1 INSERT FOR COLT DA E

$160.00
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 9:40:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $160.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

GUNSMITHING TOOLS TURNSCREW SCREWDRIVER ANTIQUE EBONY HANDLE EBONY RARE UK

$220.00
End Date: Sunday Jan-27-2019 18:15:18 PST
Buy It Now for only: $220.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Lot Gunsmith Checkering Tools Leather Working

$39.99
End Date: Thursday Feb-7-2019 10:38:33 PST
Buy It Now for only: $39.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

40 pc. Antique Brass Machinist Gunsmith Roll Drift Pin Punch Hammer Chisel Set

$395.00
End Date: Monday Jan-21-2019 16:32:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $395.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Master Gunsmith's Tools, Equipment, and Gerstner Chests

$2,350.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Monday Jan-21-2019 9:59:03 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

13 IRON STEEL BENCH BLOCKS 25 15 10 5 3 1 BLS BLACKSMITH JEWELER ANVIL GUNSMITH

$186.24
End Date: Thursday Jan-31-2019 5:58:13 PST
Buy It Now for only: $186.24
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Assortment of 50 OLD USED MACHINIST TOOLS FILES GUNSMITH JEWELERS FILES

$42.00
End Date: Monday Feb-11-2019 20:43:15 PST
Buy It Now for only: $42.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

220 Rocket Special h.s.s. Chamber Reamer Pro Gunsmith Tools

$69.99 (1 Bid)
End Date: Thursday Jan-17-2019 19:50:58 PST
Bid now | Add to watch list

Old Used Tools,Tiny All Steel Ball Peen Hammer 1.1oz.,Jeweler,Gunsmith,Crafts

$15.99
End Date: Thursday Jan-31-2019 18:07:25 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

GUNSMITH TOOLING JIGS 7Z3

$29.99
End Date: Friday Jan-18-2019 5:35:40 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Small Jewelers Hand Vise. Gunsmith VOM CLEFF & Co NEW YORK 2" VG & Co.

$37.00
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 11:34:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $37.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Old Used Tools,Vintage All Steel Ball Peen Hammer 9.2oz.,Jeweler,Gunsmith,Crafts

$17.99
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 18:13:05 PST
Buy It Now for only: $17.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

2 Antique Vintage 1.5” table vise old Jewelers gunsmith hobby tool Marshall

$149.99
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 6:08:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $149.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Old Used Tools,Vintage Plumb . Ball Peen Hammer,Jeweler,Gunsmith,

$17.01
End Date: Wednesday Jan-16-2019 9:11:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $17.01
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmithing with Simple Hand Tools (Stackpole Classic Gun Books)

$129.94
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 2:03:26 PST
Buy It Now for only: $129.94
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Craftsman Vise Pipe Vice Old Tool Gunsmith Anvil Steampunk Machinist

$189.00
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 12:23:42 PST
Buy It Now for only: $189.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Craftsman Vise Pipe Vice Old Tool Gunsmith Anvil Steampunk Machinist

$179.00
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 20:09:20 PST
Buy It Now for only: $179.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Wilton Power Arm D-12 with mounting for baby bullet vise gunsmith jewelry tool

$229.99
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 16:33:50 PST
Buy It Now for only: $229.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Woodworth Zero spindle concentricty gauge AD-012 fixture machinists gunsmith

$69.99
End Date: Sunday Feb-10-2019 12:58:34 PST
Buy It Now for only: $69.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Die filer cast iron table jeweler machinist gunsmith tool collectible

$349.99
End Date: Wednesday Feb-13-2019 4:23:45 PST
Buy It Now for only: $349.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Brownells Gunsmith Tools

Brownells has been around a long time — they were founded in 1939 and have always been known for their quality tools, parts and supplies to gunsmiths.  Because they have been around for so long, you tend to see a fair amount of Brownells stuff hit eBay by name so that is worth searching.  Still look at the photos closely and the seller’s rating to play it safe.  By the way, if you have never read their Gunsmith Kinks books – be sure to pick them up.

Brownells Gunsmith Kinks Vol 1 2 3 4 Complete set new sealed Free ship

$145.00
End Date: Thursday Jan-17-2019 10:41:25 PST
Buy It Now for only: $145.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Tools

What is “antique” really is up to the seller.  You’ll see stuff that ranges from a few years to over 50 years old.

Antique Oak Gunsmith Tool Cabinet Chest Removable Front w/Two Sectioned Drawers

$175.00
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 12:55:16 PST
Buy It Now for only: $175.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Vintage Style Colt Firearms Gunsmith Bore Gage Key chain

$25.00
End Date: Wednesday Jan-23-2019 17:43:36 PST
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE SWINGING GUNSMITH JEWELERS VISE

$255.00
End Date: Wednesday Jan-16-2019 14:05:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $255.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

1945 Antique Gun Book 'The Gunsmith's Manual"

$35.00
End Date: Friday Jan-25-2019 18:28:45 PST
Buy It Now for only: $35.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Hand Vise Gunsmith Jewelers Jewelery Machinist Antique Clock Maker

$69.99
End Date: Wednesday Feb-13-2019 22:29:32 PST
Buy It Now for only: $69.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

40 pc. Antique Brass Machinist Gunsmith Roll Drift Pin Punch Hammer Chisel Set

$395.00
End Date: Monday Jan-21-2019 16:32:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $395.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique vintage small oak gunsmith's hammer. A beautiful wall hanger or tool.

$10.00
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 14:11:16 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

VINTAGE / ANTIQUE GUNSMITH / V MACHINIST HAND VISE

$35.00
End Date: Saturday Jan-19-2019 16:18:57 PST
Buy It Now for only: $35.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Gun Vise Gunsmith Tool European Vintage Small Handheld Adjustable Vise

$69.99
End Date: Saturday Jan-26-2019 18:21:19 PST
Buy It Now for only: $69.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Vintage Blacksmith Mechanic Gunsmith Hand Vice Tool

$24.50
End Date: Thursday Jan-31-2019 11:05:03 PST
Buy It Now for only: $24.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Antique Solid Brass Jeweler Gunsmith Mallet

$14.90
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 14:52:23 PST
Buy It Now for only: $14.90
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

I hope this helps you out!  There is a ton of stuff out there if you experiment with the search terms some.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Original Russian Soviet SKS SKS/AK Rifle Carbine Sling Marked & Dated. From USA

$14.98
End Date: Monday Feb-4-2019 19:14:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $14.98
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Soviet Russian AK Sling SVD PKM AS-VAL Vintorez VSS VDV FSB KGB MVD Army Marines

$19.99
End Date: Wednesday Feb-6-2019 10:59:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

USSR Soviet AK47 AK74 AK 3 Magazines Ammo Pouch Canvas Bag for Kalashnikov Mags

$21.43
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 4:07:01 PST
Buy It Now for only: $21.43
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

USSR AKS-74U Rifle Drop Case Canvas Bag AKSU Kalashnikov Krinkov Shortened AK74

$23.23
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 4:27:39 PST
Buy It Now for only: $23.23
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Soviet AK-47 Bayonet with Scabbard

$79.95
End Date: Monday Feb-11-2019 20:00:32 PST
Buy It Now for only: $79.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Soviet Block Romainian Leather AK Sling W/ Buckles 

$8.95
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 10:59:30 PST
Buy It Now for only: $8.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

KALASHNIKOV AK-47 USSR Soviet Russian Short Sleeve T-Shirt AK47 Greatest Hits

$15.95
End Date: Saturday Jan-26-2019 17:17:03 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK-47 Soviet Army Kalashnikov Airsoft Assault Rifle/Gun -- metal/prop/M16 -- NEW

$33.95
End Date: Monday Jan-21-2019 10:44:58 PST
Buy It Now for only: $33.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK-47 + Soviet weapons Magazine 2015 Collectors Guide Buyers Manual

$19.95
End Date: Thursday Feb-14-2019 2:48:14 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Soviet Army afganka unloading system for Ak-74 and granades Afgan War

$32.11
End Date: Tuesday Feb-12-2019 21:05:18 PST
Buy It Now for only: $32.11
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

USSR Russian RPK Drop Case Canvas Cover Rifle AK-74 AKM Carrying Bag 106cm/42in

$27.00
End Date: Wednesday Jan-23-2019 8:16:58 PST
Buy It Now for only: $27.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

*HUGE Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR AKM AK-47 7.62 Kalashnikov CAVE BUY NOW!!

$14.38
End Date: Sunday Jan-20-2019 23:25:24 PST
Buy It Now for only: $14.38
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

MATCHING #s Transitional E. German Soviet BAKELITE 7.62 Bayonet ak russian 5.45

$92.00
End Date: Tuesday Jan-22-2019 10:09:20 PST
Buy It Now for only: $92.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

USSR Dated Original Soviet Russian AK SKS SVD Rifle Carrying SLING BELT

$12.99
End Date: Monday Feb-11-2019 14:38:40 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

HUGE AK74 RPK74 Kalashnikov Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR 7.62x39 Buy NOW!

$95.20
End Date: Sunday Feb-10-2019 17:29:59 PST
Buy It Now for only: $95.20
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK Interactive AK2300 Soviet Aircraft Colors 1950-1970 (Air Series) Paint Set

$34.99
End Date: Monday Jan-28-2019 14:14:12 PST
Buy It Now for only: $34.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

KALASHNIKOV T-shirt AK-47 USSR Soviet Russian Russia T-Shirt Shirt S-5XL

$12.99
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 8:57:42 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK47 T Shirt Soviet USSR Russian Poker Hand Printed 100% Cotton

$16.99
End Date: Sunday Jan-20-2019 6:37:25 PST
Buy It Now for only: $16.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

SOVIET RUSSIAN AK 74 bayonet

$150.00
End Date: Sunday Feb-3-2019 3:17:20 PST
Buy It Now for only: $150.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Russian Graphic Cotton Blend Gray T-Shirt AK-47 Kalashnikov Gun Shirt

$15.00
End Date: Thursday Jan-24-2019 15:08:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

7.62 X 39 AK47 Ammo Can T shirt Assault Rifle AK74 AKM Magazine Sling

$16.99
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 14:24:36 PST
Buy It Now for only: $16.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

KALASHNIKOV AK-47 USSR Soviet Russian Short Sleeve T-Shirt AK47 Greatest Hits

$15.95
End Date: Saturday Jan-26-2019 17:17:03 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

KALASHNIKOV T-shirt AK-47 USSR Soviet Russian Russia T-Shirt Shirt S-5XL

$12.99
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 8:57:42 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK-47 T-SHIRT Gun Rights Kalishnikova 2nd Amendment AK47 Semi Assault Rifle 7.62

$13.79
End Date: Sunday Feb-3-2019 17:33:00 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.79
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

STREETWISE HIGH CALIBER 2.0 T-shirt AK-47 ASSault Rifle Men L-4XL Black NWT

$28.95
End Date: Wednesday Jan-30-2019 14:05:42 PST
Buy It Now for only: $28.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK47 - AR15 T-SHIRT Rifle Tee ~ GUNS ~ 2nd Amendment

$13.79
End Date: Friday Jan-18-2019 17:19:56 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.79
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Nobody Needs An AK47.. But Yet Here You Are - AR15, Pro Gun, AR-15 Black T-Shirt

$10.99
End Date: Friday Feb-8-2019 9:09:34 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK-47 and Bullet American Flag - 2nd Amendment USA Mens T-shirt

$10.33
End Date: Sunday Feb-10-2019 10:20:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.33
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK-47 T-Shirt Out Line Logo Gun Rifle Size S,M,L,XL.2XL,3XL,4XL,5XL 100% cotton

$13.95
End Date: Monday Jan-28-2019 8:29:54 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

trump t shirt deplorable patriot ar15 ak47 usa military american

$15.95
End Date: Saturday Feb-9-2019 18:18:34 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

MAFIOSO CLOTHING BREAKDOWN GUNS AK 47 RIFLE GUN T SHIRT

$18.39
End Date: Monday Feb-4-2019 20:03:02 PST
Buy It Now for only: $18.39
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

US NEW FASHION 3D PRINT BLACK AK47 MEN/WOMEN SHORT T-SHIRT USA SHIPPING

$6.99
End Date: Tuesday Jan-29-2019 23:36:45 PST
Buy It Now for only: $6.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Black Rifles Matter T-Shirt Guns Rights AR-15 AK47 Gun 2nd Amendment Tee Shirt

$9.99
End Date: Monday Feb-4-2019 14:55:53 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Bold White AK-47 - 2nd Amendment Bear Arms Guns Mens T-shirt

$10.33
End Date: Sunday Feb-3-2019 11:45:51 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.33
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

SPRINGFIELD ARMORY Firearms Soft 100% Ringspun Cotton T-Shirt Gun Pistol AK 47

$11.95
End Date: Monday Jan-21-2019 1:24:58 PST
Buy It Now for only: $11.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Funny AK-47 shirt AK 47 Gun t-shirt

$9.99
End Date: Sunday Feb-10-2019 19:56:41 PST
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Using Super Lube Grease on a McKay Semi-Auto Uzi

In an earlier post, I mentioned that I have switched to using Super Lube Multi-Purpose Grease on my firearms.  One of my test platforms was a semi-auto Uzi I built using a McKay receiver and McKay closed bolt group.

To legally build a semi-auto Uzi, you need to run a closed bolt system vs. the original open bolt.  Now the open bolt design was the picture of simplicity albeit with a pretty big bolt.  The closed bolt system uses a striker, and while a little more complex, it has a lot of moving surfaces that are parkerized.  This means they are relatively rough and need to wear in plus they need serious lubrication during this period.

My experience with my Uzi was that oil alone didn’t cut it.  Once I moved to using a 1″ chip brush and applying a light layer of Super Lube all over the bolt, striker and insides of the receiver and top cover, the reliability sky rocketed.  At this point, it has worn in fairly well and the action cycles very easily.

My recommendation to anyone building a semi-auto Uzi is to use Super Lube Multi-Purpose grease both during break in and for ongoing lubrication of the bolt and striker system.  I use regular oil on the fire control group.

I hope this helps you out.  It made a world of difference with my Uzi.


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How to Adjust an Uzi Top Cover and Fix a Bolt Blocking Latch Problem – Uzi Would Not Fire

I built an Uzi a few months back and had trouble with it firing.  A challenge a person has in the firearms industry is finding time to enjoy shooting!  At any rate, I took it out the first time and had really light primer strikes with the firing pin – I’m talking you could barely see there was contact.  So with the Uzi refusing to go bang, I had to do some digging.

I got into Uzis because of all the movies and TV shows in the 1980s.  I decided to finally make one during the Winter of 2017/2018 and chronicled my efforts.  The first time to the range resulted in a lot of good natured ribbing from my brother-in-laws as we could not get it to fire.   We could hear the striker hitting real hard but no bang.  Luckily I had other guns for us to shoot so I put the Uzi back in the bag and took it home where it then sat for a couple of months.

I did some digging and process of elimination and got it down to a few possibilities that in some cases I had already addressed.  The following is my journey and what I did to sort matters out.

Lubrication

The Uzi closed bolt system is a huge chunk of metal and moving parts.  When brand new, these parts still have their porous surface finishes on them, rough spots from machining and what not.  You need to make sure everything is lubricated.  Remember the old saying of it slides, use grease.  If it rotates, use oil.  I used Tetra gun grease on all sliding parts.  I definitely wanted the big bolt body to slide easily.  I also did put a light coat of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W30 on the firing pin but really nothing rotates in there.  In the trigger group, I used the oil also on all pivot points.

For me, I heard the need for this when I assembled the carbine for the first time.  There was a very dry slow-moving sound and grating feel when I first ran the action during assembly.  After lubrication it made a world of difference.  I could feel and hear the striker hitting far harder.  The important point is to lube your weapon.  This definitely helped but it did not solve my problem in this case but I could tell it would definitely impact the operation of an Uzi.

Note:  When I wrote this I was using Tetra Grease but I am now using Super Lube and it works fantastic on my Uzi.  Click here for the write up.

Top Cover Bent

To be honest, I thought for sure this was going to be my problem after a fellow at McKay suggested I check it.  I always thought the cover seated hard and I could not release the latch without a tool.  As soon as the fellow suggested it I put one and one together – I bet it warped when the third party welded on the Picatinny rail section.

So, I did some digging on the web to figure out what to do.  It turns out that you should be able to insert a 0.005″ feeler gauge between the bolt and the cover at the ejection port.  Guess what?  It wouldn’t go in – the first rib was tight and the far rib was impassable.

Before I go further – one quick comment on feeler gauges.  Not all are equal.  I have a few in my toolbox and really like this ABN unit shown.  It is accurate enough and it has a ton of gauges.  Not all of these gauge sets are complete.  For example, several of my gauge sets jump as the manufacturer just included the blades needed for their equipment.  I’d recommend getting a set with a lot of SAE and metric blades so you have flexibility.  For the Uzi dust cover, you need the 0.005 and 0.015 gauges.  Below is my exact model.

Next was to take some plywood stock I had lying around and make a jig.  Basically you want two pieces of wood (any wood to avoid marring) that are the same height.  The top cover will be suspended between them so you can adjust the cover either up or down.

I then made two little punches.  One is made by gluing and brad nailing two pieces of 1/2″ plywood together so I could hit both ribs of the top cover at once.  I also made a punch out of a single piece of plywood to adjust just one rib.  I then got out one BFH (big frickin’ hammer) to whack with.

If there’s one thing I have learned – don’t go crazy hitting stuff.  I put the jig right on the floor for good support and then the dust cover on it.  Note that on the front part, I pushed the wood block back until it was supporting a thicker part and not just the thin neck.

So, I gave it a tap – not a very hard one with the thick piece on both ribs and took it over to test.  It sure went on the receiver easier.  Wow – it overshot the mark.  I could now very easily insert the 0.015″ feeler gauge too.  My understanding is that you don’t want it that loose or you risk the bolt jumping the sear and resulting in an uncontrolled mag dump.  No joke – I don’t need that in my life ever.

I took the cover off the Uzi and flipped it with top now facing up and I tapped down even lighter.  It really is surprising how easy the dust cover bends.  I thought given the thickness of the sheet metal and the two ribs it would be much stronger but no.

I then took it back and installed it on the Uzi.  It was starting to fit better.  I definitely noticed that the ribs were different in terms of their gap so I switched to the smaller 1/2″ plywood punch and focused on one rib at a time.  Tap and test, tap and test.  If I went too far one way, I would flip the cover and tap it the other way.

After about 15 minutes I had it dialed in.  The 0.005″ gauge would slide in and the 0.015 gauge met just a bit of resistance.

In working the action you could both feel and see the improvement.  As always, there was a nice firm thud of the striker.  Problem solved?  No – it wasn’t.  Argh. It was a definite improvement in operation but did not solve the problem.

The Uzi Bolt Blocking Latch

The web is a wonderful thing.  I continued to surf around and read more about peoples’ experiences with Uzis not firing.  Finally I read one that caught my eye – the striker has a particular orientation that must be followed to clear the bolt blocking latch.  Wow.  I knew  I didn’t know about that when I installed it because the light strikes definitely indicated the striker wasn’t reaching the primer and this would explain a lot.

Okay, #31 in the above diagram is the bolt blocking latch and #30 is the spring.  The bolt blocking latch’s purpose is to reduce (not eliminate) the chance of an out of battery firing.  It does this by blocking the striker’s base.  In normal operation, it is depressed and the notch in the base clears the latch as it travels forward to touch off the primer.  Now there are three key things here and I’ll tell you what I messed up.

  1. The spring must be installed correctly.
  2. The latch must move freely
  3. The striker must be rotated such that the notch is in the right place- you can install it 180 degrees opposite.

So,  your’s truly bombed the last one.  I did not realize there was an orientation issue.  The model B striker’s base is a half circle.  The notch must be at the bottom to clear the latch.  In this next photo, you can see I have it installed backward:

The following photo shows the installed Uzi bolt blocking latch.  See how the bottom part stocks out?  That is what will need to clear the notch when it is depressed during normal operation.

Note, I was working on a full size Uzi with a McKay semi-auto receiver and bolt group.  Your bolt group may look a bit different.

When installed correctly, the striker sits in its seat and the seat sits in the striker guide like so:

You can see in the above photo how my latch was chewing on the improperly installed striker.  As a visual reference for the correct orientation, see how the striker’s base is facing the part of the guide that has a depression in it.    When installed, it will look like this:

You can see an immediate difference because when you depress the latch, the striker can fully travel forward and sticks out of the bolt face ever so slightly.  That’s what we want!

Verdict – problem solved and fun was had at the range yesterday.  The Uzi is still wearing in and smoothing out.  We put about 100 rounds of 124 grain S&B FMJ through it.

The carbine was accurate and a lot of fun.  I am going to find a bit bigger optic for it – probably the Vortex Crossfire like I am running on my POF-5.

Regardless, I hope this helps you out!


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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The UZI Submachine Gun Examined (Hardcover)

Although universally recognized, the history of this iconic weapon has gone largely undocumented — until now. Originally designed for the Israeli military by Uziel Gal, the UZI submachine gun has a colorful history that has reached around the globe. Using approximately 1,000 photos, this book examines the history and technical details of all the UZI variations, both military and civilian, from its initial design to the current models. Also included are original factory documents, model-by-model features, part variations, accessories and manuals.

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How to Remove Old Cosmoline and Grease or Even Free Up Rusty Parts The Easy Way

We’ve all had parts come in with really dried out preservative on it such as grease or cosmoline.  I bought some 100 year old khukuri blades that were coated in dried out grease and realized this was a great time to take some photos.  There’s a way to get all this crud off very easily – most will practically wipe off!

I learned the following trick years ago after a friend was worried I would blow myself up using gas, brake cleaner, etc.  In hindsight I must admit it was risky but I rationalized it because I needed to get the parts clean – this is not only effective but also way safer.

Take a 5 gallon pail with a sealable lid on it.  In the photos you see a basic Ace Hardware plastic bucket with it’s lid that has a waterproof gasket.

I first learned about this years ago for firearms and it is a cleaner known as Ed’s Red and I’ve used it ever since.  The formula was developed and shared by a gentleman named “Ed Harris” and it works great for dissolving grease, cosmoline and even penetrating rusty parts.

The basic formula is:

  • 1 part Dexron III or better
  • 1 part deodorized kerosene
  • 1 part mineral spirits
  • 1 part acetone

I use it over and over, which is why I recommended the lid.  I’ve been using this bucket for probably 3-5 years now.  If it gets really gross or seems to stop working then I will change it but it’s fine so far.

So, I set the blades in the ATF and liberally coated the sides and let it sit.  I periodically would reverse the blades so they could be immersed.  If they were smaller parts, I’d drop them in there and let them sit for a few days.

What I wold so each time when I turned them was to rub the blades down and try and get the softened/dissolved grease off.  A lot of it would wipe right off with no scrubbing.

So here they are a couple of days later simply wiped down.  I left a thin film of ATF on them to reduce the odds of rust but all the old dried grease is gone.

When I am done, I put the lid back on and move the pail out of the way.  I do keep wet parts out of the cleaner as I don’t want to contaminate it with water but other than that, I’ve soaked all kinds of greasy, oily, rusty, dirty parts in this.  The crud settles to the bottom of the pail over time.  I’ve learned that if I stir it up there is a lot of debris.  If it gets too bad, it will be time for a new batch.

I mentioned it in passing but this is also great for penetrating rusty parts so you can take them apart.  I can’t begin to guess what all I have soaked in this bucket over the years but it sure includes gun parts, blades, rusty car parts, etc.  It’s a huge time saver and I hope it helps you out as well.

P.S.  If you want to read more on Ed’s formula, click here for his original article that is in the public domain.


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Yes, 922r Does Apply to Short Barreled Rifles (SBRs)

Please note that I am not an attorney and this does not constitute legal advice.

The topic of 922r compliance and parts counts came up the other day as whether it applies to Short Barreled Rifles (SBR). In reading the conflicting ATF documentation, the last guidance given in technical branch letters from 2009 and 2010, the ATF does say it applies.  I put it this was as you should look at the trend over time which does seem to point towards 922r being applicable.

I am a very conservative guy and always try to stay on the safe side of legal issues so I would recommend ensuring your SBR is compliant with the 922r parts count requirements.  If you do this then you do not need to worry about it and I am sure there are folks who would disagree with me.

Here is the 2009 letter:

Here is the three page 2010 letter:

Again, please let me stress that I am not an attorney.  If you have any questions on this, I would recommend doing your own research and/or retaining legal counsel.

 


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What do the Hebrew Characters on the IDF Uzi Grip Frame Mean?

When the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) adopted the Uzi, they had the selector markings written in Hebrew script.  For those of us that can’t read Hebrew, I did some digging as to the translation:

As you can see labelled in the above photo, we have each position marked with the Hebrew term in its romanized form as well as the English translation.

  • Left position:  Otomatit is fully automatic
  • Center position:  Bodedet is single fire / semi-automatic
  • Right position:  Natzur is safe

I hope this helps you out!


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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Uzi Part 7 of 7: The Bolt and Final Assembly of the Semi-Auto Uzi Carbine

So the semi-auto 9mm Uzi carbine build has the Molyresin applied and is ready to go together.  The following is an overview of the final assembly steps:

1]  Install the grip frame assembly.  Insert the tip first and swing the back up into position.  Install the grip frame takedown pin.  If the assembly will not go into position you may need to remove the bolt safety.  The McKay receiver and bolt do not use that part.  If you have questions about the grip assembly and preparing it for semi-auto use, click here.

2] Install the stock bracket with its 1/4″ screw and then the stock itself with its three screws taking care to use the correct bit on the slotted screws.  Make sure the bolt doesn’t stick in too far.  If you have questions about converting the quick detach stock to be permanently attached, click here.

3] The handguards are installed with the two screws.  I did my initial build with the beat up originals but then purchased a new set from US Barrel Shroud that isn’t shown in these photos.

4] I installed the barrel nut catch and spring plus the front sight.  Slide the catch far enough back that it hooks the receiver and does not come back out.

5] I then installed the rear top cover catch and rear sight.  The trick here is to push down on the flip sight while pushing the screw through so the threads can engage on the other side.  The little tiny but just locks it in place – the receiver itself is threaded also. Note, I did have an issue with either the thread on the bolt or the receiver.  I could not get the rear sight screw to enter on the opposite threaded side.  After playing with it for a few minutes it dawned on me that either the screw or the threading in the “ear” of the receiver could be messed up so I installed the screw from the opposite direction just to chase the threads real quick and that solved whatever the problem was because when I then tried to insert it the correct way, the screw went right in.

6] Rather than mess with rivets, I tapped the front sling for a #10-28 screw.  I sanded down the head of the screw to avoid interference with the bolt and then applied medium Loctite to the thread when i installed it.  If you need to remove more of the screw head later it can be readily reached with a Dremel and a flap sander or whatever bit you wish.

7]  The 16″ semi-auto barrel slide right into the front trunnion and into the ring of the semi-auto feed ramp.  Rather than use the barrel nut, I opted for a very cool two piece barrel shroud from Title II Arms.  It is solid aluminum and exceptionally well made.  Note, I show a light on a rail adapter on the bayonet lug.  It looks cool but I actually removed it as my hand’s natural hold runs right into it.  It’s not a reflection of the CAA rail but it’s just not for me.  With it gone, my hand can go right out to the end of the handguard and is much more comfortable.

8]  Next it was time to sort out the striker fired bolt system.  This raises a critical legal point –the weapon must fire from a closed bolt.  This means you can’t use the original open bolt.  After some digging, I decided to use the McKay closed semi-auto bolt system for my build.  Now McKay components are popular and they were out of stock on the complete bolt assembly but Robert RTG had it in stock so I bought it and other parts from them.  As of my writing this, for example, McKay has their receivers in stock, bolt assembly but not the barrel so you can check between both firms plus McKay says they sell to Sarco and Apex.

9]  I had to do some reading to figure out how the bolt went together as I had never seen anything quite like it before.  The best write-up I could find that really helped me is right here.  In a nut shell, take your original bolt, push out the extractor retaining pin and then push the extractor straight out the front of the bolt.  From the rear, the extractor looks like a screw due to the slotted head but it is not.  The slot is there to make it easy for you to rotate the extractor into position.  Insert the extractor into the new semi-auto bolt.  You will notice that with your semi-auto bolt a small blocking latch and pin are included just like you would see in the Uzi Pro Pistol – indeed, the whole bolt assembly is very similar to the Uzi Pro Pistol if you look it up.  The little spring and the latch are inserted into the bolt and held in place by the extractor pin in the semi-auto bolt.

Ok – this next photo shows a problem that I didn’t find out until the first trip to the range.  At the lower right of bolt is a pin that holds the extractor in place plus you can see a tab sticking down – that is the locking latch.  Now look at the striker.  You can’t see clearly but it is a half moon shape and I have it installed backward.  The notch, or part of the striker’s base that is missing should be what goes against the bolt blocking latch.  If you get it backward the weapon will not fire and you’ll notice the striker base getting beaten up by the latch.

Here’s the blocking latch – see how the bottom part stocks out?  That is what will need to clear the notch when it is depressed during normal operation.

Here’s what it should look like – note how the striker bar has a smooth side and one with a relieved/depressed surface?  The notched striker base goes towards the smooth portion:

Here you can see the base that is towards the relieved/depressed area plus you can see the blocking latch will let the striker come forward only if the latch is depressed.  The chewed up area on the striker is from my mistaken assembly and a ton of testing trying to figure out what I did wrong.

Here’s another angle.  The striker can only travel forward if that blocking latch is depressed – in the photo, the latch would be pushed down out of the way.  In the Uzi with the bolt oriented the normal way, we would say the latch is being pressed upward.

Last pic:

10]  If you look at the above photo, the striker system.  The lower L-shaped bracket is the “Striker Guide”.  Thestriker spring base and the striker are held in place by a roll pin.  The return spring slides over the striker spring base as shown above.

11]  Take the guide rod and spring from the kit and snip the fiber square board off the end.  I used diagonal cutters and when I made my first cut the little board fell right off.

12]  You then insert the recoil spring into the bolt and rotate the firing pin base while inserting the assembly into the bolt.  The white is Tetra Firearm Grease.  If it slides, grease it.  If it rotates, oil it.  You want this system to be well lubed to help it wear in.

13]  Here is the whole bolt assembly with the recoil buffer at the end.  Now this assebly is slid into the Uzi buffer end first.  It takes some maneuvering to the recoil block into the rear and then the bolt nestles down.

14] The top cover is then installed.  I used a 120 grit flap sander bit to slightly bevel my top cover to the catch can close and the top is really tight.  The top black cover has the bevel in the photo below – it doesn’t take much.  If you have any questions about what needs to be done to prepare the top cover for semi-auto use, click here.

14.1 – Added 7/2/18:  I found out that you really need to fit the top cover.  If you take a feeler gauge, you should be able to insert a 0.005 gauge between the bolt body and the top cover at the ejection port and meet little to no resistance.  However, if you insert a 0.015 gauge, you should feel some resistance – not a complete stop but firm resistance.  At 0.005, the gap is too small and you risk the bolt body binding and not travelling fast enough or far enough resulting in ejection and feed problems.  The cover is very easy to adjust.  I did a more detailed blog about testing and adjusting the cover – click here.

15] Now function test it to be safe.  Do this with the weapon unloaded!!

  • Try to move the selector switch to Full Auto, which is all the way forward.  It must not be able to move past semi-auto.  If it does slide to the forward full auto position, you must fix it.  If you haven’t done so, you need to install or fix your blocking tab that should be welded in the grip frame – click here for details.  If you welded in a blocking plate, it may be too thin or too short.  Regardless, you must figure out what is going on and fix it immediately.  The ATF says the selector must not move into the full auto position.
  • Move the selector to semi-auto (the middle position), hold the grip safety, cock the weapon and squeeze trigger – you should here it dry fire with a real solid clunk sound. Life is good.  If there is a soft click, the striker system did not cock – check your sear to make sure it is protruding into the receiver.
  • Move the selector to semi-auto (the middle position), DO NOT hold the grip safety, cock the weapon and squeeze trigger – the weapon should not fire.  The Uzi should only be able to fire if on semi-auto and the grip safety is held.  Check your pins and that the grip safety bar is sliding properly.
  • Move the selector to safe (all the way to the rear), hold the grip safety, cock the weapon and squeeze the trigger – the trigger should be blocked and nothing should happen.  Turn the safety off and the weapon should fire.  If it does not, check the pins and the selector bar can move into position properly and block the trigger.
  • Last, move the selector to semi-auto, hold the grip safety, squeeze the trigger (do not release it) and cock the weapon while holding the trigger in.  We want to ensure the disconnector grabs the striker assembly.  Now, release the trigger and squeeze it like normal.  You should here it dry fire with a loud clunk sound and that is what you want.  A light click is just the trigger and disconnector moving around and means the striker went back into battery vs. being retained.  Something is off with the geometry – something is bent, you forgot to secure the grip frame with the takedown pin, etc.

If your Uzi passes the function tests, then proceed to test firing.  I’d recommend securing the carbine in a stand and test firing with a string vs. holding the weapon.  Also, only load one round in the magazine at a time and inspecting the carbine, especially the barrel, to make sure the first round fires and the case is ejected.  Look for dings or tears in the case.  Make sure the bullet didn’t get stuck in the barrel.  If things are looking good, put two rounds in the magazine and test the overall cycling of the weapon.  Again, check the case for any big gouges, scrapes, etc.  When you are satisfied that the weapon is functioning correctly, then and only then try more and more rounds of ammo.  I would go from one, to two, to three to five and to 10 before I tried a full clip.  You do not want to have an uncontrolled full auto dump happen so carefully test the Uzi.

I had a lot of fun building mine.  I added a Vortex Venom red dot that I really like so far plus an original Uzi green sling.  Here are some photos and as mentioned the light and rail are off the weapon at this point.

I hope this helps and if you have any suggestions, please let me know.

7/2/2018 Update – I did get rid of the light/laser on the front.  It was in the way of my hand.  I also have some recommendations to double check in case your Uzi has any problems firing – click here.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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Uzi Part 6 of 7: Applying the Molyresin Finish

I’ve used John Norrell’s Molyresin finish for years and like it.  It’s easy to apply and quite durable.  My preferred approach is to abrasive blast a steel surface, parkerize it and then apply the Molyresin and bake it on.  There was one challenge this time though – it was below freezing and a snow storm was going on so I opted to just blast and apply the finish.  This ought to hold up fairly well.  With AKs, I am always fighting the selector lever scraping the receiver but don’t have that situation with an Uzi.

1]  Clean everything with brake cleaner or acetone.  I use a ton of brake cleaner.  Also, be sure to wear nitrile gloves to avoid getting oil from your hands onto the clean parts.

2] Here’s a time-saving trick – the Uzi’s original parts were parkerized.  Just clean anything with a good parkerized surface thoroughly but do not blast it off.  If the “park” is worn away, proceed with blasting the surface.  The reason is simple – parkerizing creates a surface that the Molyresin can really adhere to when baked on – even more so than blasting alone.  Molyresin will not last if you just spray it on a smooth surface and bake it so don’t even consider doing that.  In short, at least blast the part including all edges, corners, flat places, and so forth unless they are parked already.  If you have the capacity to park parts [click here for a tutorial], do that and then apply the finish.

3] I used to use the Harbor Freight air brushes but have had a ton of problems with them failing so this year I invested in a nice Paasche H-series airbrush after hearing good things about them over the years.  The quality is night and day better.  I read a bunch of confusing junk on the Web about guys questioning how to hook up their air line.  After buying the kit from Amazon, I simply applied quality PTFE tape to a male 1/4″ plug with a male 1/4″ NPT end and screwed to Paasche air line on to it.  Done.   Also, I am really obsessive about clean air – I run a high-end filter system in my shop and still put a screw in filter just before the air brush’s air line just to play it safe.  If you run your air brush off your home compressor, you definitely need to do this.

 

4] John has really good instructions online for applying Molyresin.   I bought a quart of semi-gloss black for the Uzi build plus I plan on using it for a few other projects I have planned thus I bought the big bottle.  They say an 8 oz bottle has enough Molyresin to coat 2.5 AR rifles.  I used a tad over one ounce on the Uzi but I’m inefficient with my application because I am spraying all the little parts also.   You have a ton of adjustments you can do when applying a finish via a paint brush so your actual coverage will vary.  I have a simple theory though – I’d rather have left over finish than be in the middle of something and run out!

5] You need to preheat your parts to 150F.  This allows the solvent to evaporate very quickly.  Since the Uzi parts are all relatively small, I used my portable roaster oven that I bought at WalMart on sale.  Oven thermostats are notoriously inaccurate so use a good thermometer to confirm the actual temperature.  I use a Fluke 62 Max Plus due to my work with plastics and steel.  My oven runs about 47 degrees cooler than what the dial heat setting claims for example.  At any rate, I start preheating my parts while I get m airbrush ready.  All the cleaning and surface prep is done at this point and I am wearing either nitrile gloves.

6] So, I used the size 1 tip that was installed in the Paasche brush and set the air pressure to 20 pounds and then dialed the tip in and out until I got the spray pattern that I wanted.  One of the nice things about the Paasche is that the company stands behind their products – you can ask questions, lots of people have written about them and you can also download the manuals.  I can tell you one thing, I am never going back t the Harbor Freight brushes now.

7]  Shake the heck out of the Molyresin to get the settled pigment into suspension.  Don’t just shake it once or twice – make sure the cap is on and shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds.  Molyresin has pigments that are carried along with the solvent that must be deposited onto the metal and then baked into place.  The liquid solvent is really just a carrier.

8] I apply the Molyresin in several coats until I have a uniform color everywhere.  One trick I learned years ago is to take a cardboard box and cut slots in it to push in screws to paint their heads.  Be sure to periodically shake your airbrush to keep the pigments in suspension.

9] For the barrel, I do install rubber plugs in the ends of the barrel to prevent finish from going inside.  You can buy these tapered silicone rubber plugs from a variety of sources and reuse them.  My current batch is from Amazon.

10] When you are done, clean the airbrush with MEK.  One thing I do is to clean the little supply bottle first, fill the bottle with MEK and then blow in through the brush to clean the internals.  Note, use MEK in a well ventilated area as you do not want to breath those fumes.

11] Place the parts in the oven at 300F for one hour to actually set the phenolic resin.  This temperature is critical as nothing will happen if you heat to a lower temperature and you may affect the sheen of the finish if you go hotter.  Again, use a good thermometer to make sure you are at or just over 300F – allow for the accuracy of your thermometer in other words.  If your thermometer’s rated accuracy is +/- 1% then shoot for 303-305F for example or even a tad hotter but not less.  The one hour is also a minimum.  Boosting the temperature and reduce the time is not recommended.

That’s it – the parts are ready to be assembled.

To reinforce one important point — I follow the Molyresin application instructions to the letter and get very good results and that is why I have used it for years and have no plans on changing.

This is my Fluke – the -20 to +1202F range model:

Unless you will be working with metals and need the higher temp, you can save money by going with:

Since stuff gets beat up in my shop, I always put instruments in cases and use this one:

 


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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See larger image

Additional Images:Img - B004O7HTYU
Img - B004O7HTYU

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Uzi Part 5 of 7: Converting the Top Cover for Semi-Auto Use

The Uzi’s top cover, what some call the dust cover, requires a slight modification for semi-auto use.  The original cover has a ratcheting mechanism with a little finger called a “pawl” that slides down the cover when you pull it back but if you let go prematurely, the pawl catches in a notch and forward travel stops.  Because a semi-auto bolt has a shorter distance to travel, there is not enough room for the ratchet mechanism to reset.  The solution is very simple – remove the pawl.

Here’s a photo of my semi-auto top cover with a welded on picatinny rail that I bought from US Barrel Shrouds and really like.  It’s already finished with a black Molyresin and in front of it is an original top cover.

1] The first step is to select a hollow ground screw driver bit that fills the slotted screw located in the middle of the cocking handle and remove it.  Note, my screw had what looked like white thread locker on it.  It did come off with firm pressure so it’s critical you use a properly sized bit.  I have a big Weaver screwdriver set for just this reason that I use all the time when I am working on firearms.  In the photo below, I show the cover partially ratcheted back.  Release the tension on the spring by pulling the handle all the way to the rear and allow it to travel all the way forward.

 

2] With the screw removed, the cocking handle lifts right off the top cover slot plate located under it.  The cocking handle lug will simply drop down out of the slot.  In the next photo you can see the top components but not the lug for that reason.  You can also see the thread locker remnants in the cocking handle screw.

3]  Turn the cover upside down over the table surface and the coking lug assembly will be dangling from the cocking handle return spring that is connected both to it and top cover.  You can simply life the pawl out of the lug.

4]  It is now just a matter of reassembly and it takes two hands so my photos are limited 🙂  Put the cocking lug back into the slot from the bottom side of the top cover.  Then turn it over while holding the lug in place and stack the top cover slot plate on it so the elevated tabs on the lug marry up with the slots in the top cover slot plate.  While wishing for a third hand, put the cocking lever and screw into position and screw them into place.  Note, I would recommend some form of medium Loc-tite/thread locker to keep the screw from coming loose.

5] On my dust cover, I did bevel the rear of the cover just a bit to encourage the top cover catch to engage.  My cover is nice and tight and I want it that way so I did not trim anything else.  In the next photo you can see my cover in black with the right angled top sanded down just a bit compared to the bottom original.

That’s all there is to it and I hope this helps you out.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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Uzi Part 4 of 7: Preparing the Grip Frame For Semi-Auto Use

At first glance, the Uzi grip frame is intimidating!  There are springs, pins and levers all over the place but it turns out to be surprisingly simple.  Now, I need to tell you something – I read everything I could on the grip frame [Notably the excellent UziTalk post about assembling the frame, Beaker’s great Uzi build write up on NES and Gaboury’s Uzi book] and I kept the spare Uzi’s grip frame fully assembled sitting on the bench for reference.  As you follow the steps, it becomes pretty straight forward actually.


Legal Disclaimer:   I am not a firearms attorney nor do I claim any regulatory expertise and you accept all responsibilities and liabilities for compliance with all federal and local laws that pertain to you.  I sorted out posts on what is required to make the Uzi legal in terms of the grip assembly and it seems to come down to two elements:  1] Mike at NDS received guidance on the McKay receiver that there needed to be a blocking bar for the bolt and the selector lever in the grip frame must be blocked from going to the full auto position [See post #7]  2] The sear needs to either modified for for semi-auto use or replaced with a dedicated semi-auto unit to fully penetrate into the semi-auto receiver.  A full auto sear will not fit in the McKay receiver’s holes and I am using a McKay to be clear.


Before you get started, you need to make a quick tool.  Take any small blade screw driver and use a Dremel fiber reinforced cut off wheel to make a notch in it.  Literally, just cut straight in.  You will need this to push down the surprisingly stout legs on the trigger spring that have to pass under some hooks and then under the disconnector.

1] Remove the two screws that hold the grip panels in place.  You’ll notice the grip panels are beat up but the parkerized finish and parts are in exceptional shape.  All my internals looked like new.  I am real pleased with the kits Robert RTG sent me.

2] Here’s our first peek inside the grip frame.  This crazy looking thing is actually very straight forward.  I was really impressed by how they did the pins – the look like screws but you actually insert the pins and turn them into position to lock everything in place.  It’s really a very well thought out way to do it.

I will never get any awards for illustration but here are the major parts labelled so you can see them.  Note how the trigger pin bends forward, under the hooks and under each side of the disconnector.  To remove and install the trigger requires the notched screw driver I showed above as the notch makes moving each incredibly stiff small spring leg on the trigger way, way easier.

3] Next, I pushed out the takedown pin.  It just presses right out like an HK’s.  I suspect that whomever demilled the kits just stuck it in there for safe keeping.  Have baggies or a parts tray to keep track of all of this.  I always recommend taking photos and/or making notes too.

4] Before you remove the sear, look at how much room you have in front and under the sear.  This will aid you when you weld in the selector stop plate later.  I used a small screw driver to push out the sear pin.  The spring is attached to the sear and when the pin is removed, it comes out as a unit.  This unit will either need to have the lobes cut down to fit in the receiver or use a new dedicated US semi-auto sear but you will use the same spring so be sure to save it.

 

5] Next, use your tool to push down on the trigger spring legs such that they are sticking up in the air and not under the disconnector or the wire hooks.

6]  Once the trigger pin is removed you can then remove all the other parts.   Remove the grip safety spring and then lift the grip safety straight out of the frame.

7] Next you need to size the selector stop plate you need.  In digging around, I could not find any sheet metal between .050-.075″ thick in my collection so I simply bought a pre-made selector stop plate from US Barrel Shrouds for $2.95 and made sure the selector stopped appropriately and where to place it for welding before I removed the selector bar spring and the selector bar.  You want to make sure the selector fully stops on semi-auto, the middle setting, and not further to the left. You may need to adjust the plate a bit – in my case it dropped right in and worked.  Also, the selector bar has virtually no vertical travel when the grip frame is fully assembled so don’t worry about that right now.

Note, the selector knob is just pressed onto the selector bar.  When you remove the bar, the knob will fall off so be prepared to catch it.

8] I then degreased and sanded the frame to remove the parkerizing in order to get a good weld.  I then clamped the work and spot welded it with my MIG.  You actually have a fair amount of room so the weld does not need to be perfectly flat – I did a bit more sanding than I needed to before I realized the amount of room I had to work with during test fitting.  I also did two small spot welds in each corner by the lop of the frame just to be sure.  My stop plate is rock solid now.

9]  I did not bother removing the magazine catch and at this point, I stopped as I collected all my parts to refinish them with Molyresin.  I them re-assembled following that.

10] To re-assemble the grip frame, what saved my bacon was the excellent guidance from Uzi Talk with one exception.  The McKay receiver does not use a bolt safety so when the Uzi Talk directions mention it, remember that you are not going to install the bolt safety.  If you do mistakenly install the bolt safety, the grip frame will not fit onto the receiver.

During assembly, I put Tetra grease on everything to help everything slide plus I oiled the rotating parts on the pins.  There is an old saying “if it slides, grease it.  If it rotates, oil it.”

Also, I mentioned I used a US made semi-auto sear.  I bought mine from US Barrel shrouds and it worked great.  The original is on the left with the spring still attached.  The new one is labelled US in the photos below or does not have the spring yet.  I thought you might want to get a good look at it for reference.  Note how the “pads” at the rear of the semi-auto sear are shorter but there is still a shelf at the bottom.

Below is a photo of the FCG group with the sear spring moved over plus it’s interesting to see the two fire control pins – the shorter one with the flat end is the trigger pin and the longer one is for the sear.

I hope this helps!  Next up is the top cover assembly.


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