As I get older, I remember less and less just to be candid. An old rule of thumb I was told once was to change your furnace filters when the time changes – the whole fall back, spring forward thing. The problem is two fold – #1, I eventually change them around that date and #2, the more modern filters with finer and finer filtration capabilities need to be changed more frequently – maybe every 60 days with a 1″ filter.
So, I created a small “change log” sheet that I taped on the side of the furnace to help me remember when I last changed them. It’s a simple thing – I just made a four column table where I could record the date I changed the filter. Done.
Here’s the PDF that you can print if you are interested.
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I have both SAE and Metric 3/4″ socket sets that come out once or twice a year when I am working on big bolts on cars and trucks. As you may know, the longer the wrench, the more torque you can apply. Back when I was younger would would slide a piece of pipe or heavy wall tube over a ratchet or breaker bar to get even more mechanical advantage. We definitely snapped some socket wrenches while doing this as we exceeeded their design specs.
You see, a ratcheting socket wrench has limits as to how much torque the mechanism can handle before something either bends or breaks. Quite often, the rathchet pawl would bend/crumple and no longer be able to engage the teeth of the gear. When that happens, we’d toss the cheap wrench.
This is why breaker bars were made by the way – they have no ratcheting mechanism and, thus, can handle more torque. There’s one problem though, there are times where you can’t get the breaker bar into position because you can’t turn the handle relative to the socket. So, what is a person to do when they need a ton of torque and a ratchet mechanism?
The short answer is to get a wrench with a long handle that is designed to handle a ton of torque. A ton of companies make socket wrenches with longer handles. I have a couple of these but what I find really handy are wrenches with extending/telescoping handles. When you are working in a relatively tight space, you may not have room for the fully extended handle or you have need to work it into position before you can open the handle.
The EZRed MR34 Wrench
So, when I need a ton of torque and mechanical advantage to help me get there (I’m at the age where I need to work smarter because my body doesn’t support harder any longer 🙂 – I break out the wrench I affectionately call “The Beast”. It is a beautifully made and chromed giant 3/4″ ratchet wrench.
The wrench is sold in the US by a firm called “EZRed” with a lifetime warranty and, like many things, is actually made in Taiwan. When you do some digging around, there are a lot of guys using this wrench for heavy equipment, farm equipment, trucks, steam pipes and more. After reading about the real world experiences with the wrench, I ordered one in.
The first things I noticed was that it’s a big wrench even without the handle extended. Next, it’s a heavy wrench and weighs in at about 8.5 pounds. I have to be honest, I don’t usually pay much attention to looks but the chrome finish is gorgeous.
I use this for 3/4″ sockets and also have a SunEx 3/4 to 1/2″ reducer for those times I want to apply a ton of torque to a smaller bolt.
So far, I am very happy with the wrench. As you can tell, I haven’t used it a ton yet but for the few quick jobs so far, it worked great.
Two Big Tips
A fellow recommended apply Blue Loctite to the head screws and grease the wrench while it was open. He was spot on – the screws were surprisingly lose. Even though they have blue thread locker on them from the factory something seems odd and guys have reported losing the screws. I really think if Ihad not followed the fellow’s advice I would have already lost mine as well – they are that loose.
So, I used a brush and lightly applied SuperLube grease to everything, reassembled the wrench and put Blue Loctite on the two head screws before tightening them down. The whole thing took maybe 10 minutes start to stop including taking the photos.
If you ever need it, the EZRed sells a rebuild kit – part number RK34.
Summary
I really like the wrench. It’s worked great so far but I really haven’t done anything super stressfulso far – just breaking some very rusty 1/2″ diameter carriagle bolts free off my plow. It’ll definitely get used this upcoming summer a lot more.
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Here’s a quick tip for you when you need to turn a wrench outside except it is really cold but you still need to feel what you are doing or can’t wear bulky insulated work gloves.
What you need to do is real simple – put on nitrile gloves first. This layer next to your skin insulates and protects you from both the wind and your hands getting wet. This is a big deal when there is snow. The second layer is your regular thin mechanics gloves. I have several brands of work gloves but Mechanix is probably the brand I use most followed by Ace.
I meant to write about this last year but forgot. Yesterday I had to work on my plow and it was +9F. The above worked great. Of course there is a limit and I don’t want anybody getting frostbite so use your common sense and play it is safe it is super cold.
I buy boxes of 5 mil Nitrile gloves whenever they go on sale at Harbor Freight. I think the sale prices tend to be around $5.99 and there are 100 in each box. I use a ton of them with my plastics work but also when working on cars. Any brand ought to work but I think the Harbor Freight gloves are a great deal when on sale.
I settled on 5 mil thick gloves because thinner ones fall apart very easily and thicker ones start to be bulky and mess with your sense of touch. I tried both 7 and 9 mil gloves before going back to 5.
The outer gloves are just basic Mechanix brand gloves.
I hope this little trick helps you out! I set up some Amazon product links for you below this post in case you would like to buy gloves.
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Amazon is really cool. I can get good deals on stuff and have it delivered to where I live. The problem is that I used to historically look at the number of reviews and the average score to determine if something was worthwhile or not. A pure math approach of looking at the numbers is not working any more and let me tell you why.
I’m noticing a lot of reviews where people give 4 to 5 stars without really using the product. I don’t know if they feel they need to report right away or just what but you will read stuff like “it looks good” or “it feels good” and nothing about the actual use. I suppose it’s better than nothing but not by much.
Also, some merchants reach out and correct problems then ask the buyer to revise the score. You know, I’m cool with that. A friend of mine recounted the story of being hounded – email after email – from the seller to change the score. So, you need to be aware of this too – I’m not a huge fan of wasting time troubleshooting stuff – I want it to hit the ground working.
Recommendations
Again, the basics are true. Products with no reviews are very risky and less than 30 are still risky but you are starting to get a safety margin. However, you must dive deeper to learn what folks are saying.
What I am finding is that you need to read the reviews and:
Look for people who actually used the product and are reporting back.
Look for trends – was the product great and having more and more problems or vise versa?
Look out for tons of edits where people post that they have revised the score after the vendor sent a replacement. Why was this necessary? I could understand a few but not a lot and definitely not a trend.
Be sure to click on the number of reviews right under the product name so you can see the breakdown of scores and even click on the number of stars to read the reviews. So, if you click on “1 star” you can read those reviews.
Fortunately with Amazon, they give great customer service and I can’t guess how many times they have made things right over the years. I think a lot of folks have a level of comfort with Amazon now and I also think you need to use the tools they gave us to make a better purchase decision.
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I did some bodywork on my 1996 Landcruiser (an 80-series Landcruiser) this past summer and had to replace the weatherstripping clips on the bottom of the driver side door. I did some digging and found that these clips are the correct size (5mm with a 15mm head) and they worked great for me. The one guy complains that these are green so he only scored it three stars. My originals were a pinkish color so green didn’t matter to me at all plus once installed, you can’t see them.
I popped the remaining originals out with a removal tool. If you don’t have one, they make a world of difference in the removal of clips. In a truck this old, I try to replace old plastic clips when I can as often find them to be brittle and either break during removal or re-insertion.
The tool you see in the above photo came with the following replacement Toyota Trim Clips package that has helped me out a number of times such as securing drooping engine bay plastic shields on a 2002 Toyota Camry.
Here is the end result – I worked the clips into each hole in the weather stripping and then simply pushed them into the body holes. I think I installed a total of five to six clips. The drooping problem was solved.
In Summary
These clips worked great. I just did this post to try and save anyone trying to find clips specifically for an 80 series Landcruiser.
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I bet you did not expect to see me do a post about carpet shampooers or as some call them “carpet cleaners” or “carpet cleaning machines”. We’ve owned dogs and had kids for years plus we have light colored carpets. Keeping them clean is no easy matter and maybe 4-6 times per year we shampoo them – plus occasional touch ups if something gets spilled, etc. It makes a HUGE difference.
We used to rent Rug Doctor carpet cleaners and while they do the job you have the expense and hassle of having to rent one. Back in the early 2000s we bought our first Hoover. We went with one from Sam’s Club if I recall right. One of the big selling points over the competition at the time was that the clean water reservoir was built right into the unit whereas some models make you run a hose way back to a bathroom, utility or kitchen sink. That just would not work the way our house was laid out.
We wore out our first unit in probably 5-6 years — it last quite a while and did a ton of cleaning with it. We then bought a newer model that we are still using and just got a brand new model to do my mother-in-law’s home after it flooded. It is a FH50258 “Hoover Professional Series Power Scrub Elite Pet Plus Upright Carpet Cleaner”. That is a mile long model name but it really did a fantastic job.
Why Did We Get It?
Thus summer we had a crazy storm that just parked over our town and dumped a ton of rain for two days, Pretty much everybody had problems with water coming into their basements including my mother-in-law. We were super busy and other than helping move stuff out of the way and putting a dehumidifier down there, we had to wait a bit to do the cleaning and restoration.
One of the reasons we bought a cleaner for her house was to leave it there in case of future problems plus we can use it for shampooing. Something we found out many years ago is that a shampooer can suck up water from a carpet like there’s no tomorrow. If you have water come in and get carpet wet, a heavy shampooer will suck a ton of water our compared to a light Ship-Vac wand and hose.
This new unit is lighter than our old one plus the tank appears much more ruggedly made. We busted the tank on both previous units – the “ears” that would clamp the lid to the tank would bust off way too easily – they fixed that design flaw with this model. They also say the unit is blowing heated air to help with cleaning and drying – I can’t speak to that. We use hot water from the tap to begin with.
Here are some photos of the new unit:
In the next photo, you can see the reservoirs pretty clearly. The main reservoir on the top is for the clean water – again, we always use hot water to help clean and dry faster. The smaller top right reservoir holds the soap. The big tank under the black bar with “ELITE” on it holds the waste water. It is easily detached and you can pour the filthy waste water down the toilet.
Our Approach
At any rate, mama had lived there for about 10 years and it had never shampooed her basement so it was worn to begin with. Add in the water and she had stains all over the place. My wife used hot water and plenty of carpet shampoo to clean the carpet.
In the above photos, you can see where she already cleaned and what was still dirty pretty clearly. We tend to use either Rug Doctor or Bissell shampoo. For the above we were using Rug Doctor shampoo. My wife has worked out a method that works well – she shampoos the carpet twice and then does a third pass just rinsing. We’ve found that carpets seem to attract dirt less if we rinse them and make sure no sticky/gummy residue remains.
Look at the example area below. We had shampooed the lighter areas already but you can see the dirty carpet pretty clearly:
This is during shampooing:
And this is the end result
After we shampooed the carpets, we ran fans a dehumidifier to dry things out. The shampooer did a great job and I figured it would be worth it to pass along the word. We bought the exact model above at Home Depot for $149. We did mama’s house and were so impressed that we bought a unit for ourselves. I’d say we get at least five years from our older models so you can do the math as whether you want to continue to rent or buy a shampooer.
For us, the shampooers have been very worthwhile. We have always liked the quality of the results and we don’t have to rush and rent a unit if family is coming over, we need to clean up an accident or even clean in general – we can just do it whenever we want.
As mentioned, this is the third Hoover we have owned/used and were very impressed. If you are interested, check the various Hoover models and see what is getting good review on Amazon, Home Depot, etc. and also falls in your budget.
I hope this helps you out.
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Folks who know me also know that I am always tinkering with something – cars, trucks, tractors, firearms, you name it. A few years ago a guy showed me how he could change fluids in his car using a vacuum siphon and I was intrigued but let it slide.
I recently went through all our old Toyotas and changed the transmission fluid to Valvoline Max Life and it dawned on me that it would be real nice to have a way to more precisely get the fluid right where I wanted it in the transmissions because I had slightly overfilled one car. Then I remembered the vacuum siphon and hopped on Amazon.
At any rate, thanks to Amazon prime, I ordered it and the unit arrived two days later. I must say that I was impressed. The plastics are all well done and it worked like a charm.
In this next photo you can see the little adapter and hose extension that comes with the unit. They say three in the ad and the first hose is attached to the cap with a strain relief. The hose is about .39/.31 (OD/ID) and 39.3″ long. The other two hoses are basically extensions via a soft rubber connector. I am using the medium extension that is .26/.21 OD/ID) and also 39.3″ long. That diameter has worked fine for Toyota T-IV ATF, Valvoline Max Life ATF and also 10W30 engine oil. When I say it can suck, that is a compliment in this case 🙂
The next photo shows the pump handle and also the venturi vacuum generator. I have that air line on my dryer system and is running 90PSI off a 60 gallon IR two stage compressor. It really didn’t use too much air. No vacuum generator will win awards for air use but you don’t need to run it for very long – just while you are pumping the fluid out and that will probably be about 2-3 minutes for most engines and transmissions.
The first time I used it, I did so with an air line (it can use compressed air to create a venturi vacuum) . It actually pumped way faster than I realized and I had over a quart out of the car before I realized it. You can definitely reduce the air flow to reduce the vacuum – it was just faster than I thought it would be, which is good news.
I was so impressed that I used the extractor to remove all the ATF from a 94 Corolla in very short order. I let it pump until nothing else came out — no problem.
I recently needed to change the oil in my tractor – again, used the siphon and it drained it very quickly. This is noteworthy as I used the hand pump to create the vacuum and it really was effortless. This was also when it dawned on me I better take some photos 🙂 You can see it pulling out the 10W30 no problem at all.
In this next photo, you can see the unit with the hose cap off – it just twists off – and this is the pour spout to empty the unit also.
I’m still on my first set of hoses but they do have a variety of replacement hoses on Amazon in case you want just one hose or a set.
In summary, it’s a great unit. I’ve not had any problems at all and recommend it. Here’s the link one more time:
7/18/2023 Update: Still working just fine – it’s a lot dirtier from use but is still doing the job. A fellow did ask me if they have other sizes and the answer is “Yes”. Click here for the EWK store on Amazon.
6/28/2022 Update: Still working great. I’ve used this on cars, trucks, tractors and even to suck the hydraulic fluid completely out of my snow plow’s hydraulic fluid reservoir.
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Our home is in a former swampy area that was drained in the 1980s and a subdivision built. In short, you dig down and can hit water fairly soon – usually within 10 feet. At any rate, we’ve had a very wet spring and summer and had standing water in our lawn until late-June and the mosquitoes have been the worst I ever recall in the 20 years we’ve been here. We could not stay out at night or we’d get attacked unless we hosed ourselves down with Deep Woods Off. In short, something needed to be done.
This hedgerow is right by my garage and ensured the mosquitoes had a perfect base to attack me from and rings our property:
When I was at Ace Hardware, I saw Off! brand’s Backyard Pretreat that was supposed to kill mosquitoes and leave a residue to repel them. I thought they would know what to do given their experience – as it turns out, this product is a rip off.
I’m sad to report that after three jugs of this stuff and my getting bit over and over while applying it, I can’t say it did anything at all even several days later. I really had high hopes – I dragged a long hose all over the place spraying stuff down over and over with no noticeable improvement.
On Facebook, I posted my woes with Mosquito control and a friend, Allan, suggested Talstar P Pro and a Ryobi cordless electric sprayer to help with evenly spraying a ton of solution. I had never heard of Talstar so I did a search and it is very well regarded. Allan told me they live on a wooded ravine and he’s been using it for 10 years to control mosquitoes and it worked exceptionally well for him.
Talstar P Professional
Every once in a while on Amazon, you see a review score that is mind blowing. FMC’s Talstar P Professional 96 oz has 2,263 customer reviews and a combined score of 4.6 out of 5 stars. That is one heck of a score and is only possible if something works really, really well.
5/21/2023 You will no longer find it on Amazon – you need the liquid Talstar and I tend to find eBay the best source to buy it. Click here for a current list on eBay.
So, based on what I read and Allan’s recommendation, I ordered the 96oz bottle. I then read up on the Ryobi sprayer. It gets good reviews, uses the 18volt Ryobi batteries (it comes with one battery and a charger) and it has a three year warranty. I ordered it off the Home Depot website [Click here] as they had free next day home delivery and since I had to wait for the Talstar, I figured it would save me a trip.
Note: You can use any pressurized sprayer you want – I have 1.5 acres and knew I would be applying gallons and gallons of it. My shoulders and elbows hurt enough as it is and I didn’t want to incur the repetitive stress.
The sprayer arrived the next day and the Talstar the day after. While I was waiting, I went to the FMC website to read up on Talstar to make sure I understood how to apply it plus I peppered Allan with his experience.
The active ingredient is Bifenthrin, which is similar to the chemical extracted from Chrysanthemums to kill insects. Here are two links so you can read more at the National Pesticide Information Center.the user guide for the Talstar P.
Ryobi Model P2830A One+ 18-Volt Lithiu-Ion Cordless 2 Gallon Chemical Sprayer
Here are photos of the sprayer. I charged the battery and screwed in all the fittings. They are all lose so be sure to do that. I didn’t have any loose plastic in the tank but I did rinse it out just to be safe.
Application
After reading the user guide, I planned to use one ounce of Talstar to one gallon of water to ensure I had residue to continue killing mosquitoes. Since it was a two gallon tank, I increased it just a bit to 2.5 ounces per two gallon tank. Note, a real nice perk is that the tank lid is a measuring cup! I would use it, rinse it out and pour the mix into the tank before filling it with water.
While doing the work, I wore Nitrile gloves just to avoid contact plus I was constantly adjusting the sprayer tip from coarse mist to a stream to try and reach back over brush, through leaves, etc.
FMC recommends spraying at night or in the evening when mosquitoes are active. I was busy the first night so I did it the following morning at 7am. I mixed up two gallons and started spraying around the house, pool, garden and so forth. I hosed down the bushes, the walls of the house and under the eaves. I also sprayed the hedge – first using a coarse spray on all the brush, leaves and ground. I found adjusting the tip to a stream was handy to penetrate the brush and also reach further back. I’d just come back to the hose and what not and mix another two gallons of spray (2 gallons water and 2.5oz of Talstar) and kept spraying.
It took me aboput 30-45 minutes and 8 gallons, or four complete tanks, to do most of our yard. I skipped probably a half acre of grass starting about 100-150 feet from our house but I did all of the hedge row, bushes, etc. I was pleasantly surprised that the 2.0Ah battery was able to do the whole yard. When I finished the first batch, I did plug the battery in and let it charge.
That night I still saw mosquitoes, but fewer of them, and applied a second dose around 7:30-8pm. Same procedure – 8 gallons focusing around the house, all the bushes, etc.
Results
The next morning – no mosquitoes. Whoa!!! I did not see one single mosquito all day. That night I worked on cars without being attacked! I did so again yesterday and just had breakfast with my wife in her garden — something that would have been next to impossible.
I’d say the spray got a good number of them but when they landed in the residue, that got rid of a ton as well. In other words, you might see a bit of a delay from dose to noticeable reduction.
In four weeks, I am going to do it again. Even my wife, who always groans at me and my tinkering, was impressed and told me to make sure I apply another dose before the first one wears off!
It’s really not that expensive in the long run. The bottle holds 96oz. I use 10oz per 8 gallons (4 batches x 2.5oz/batch). If I apply it twice per application, that means I’ll use 20oz per time, which means I’ll get just over 4 complete applications (so about four months of protection). At $35/bottle, that’s about $9/time plus however you want to account for the sprayer. For me, it’s worth it. My wife really reacts to mosquito bites plus we can enjoy being outside again and I can go back to working outside without getting attacked.
I’d highly, highly recommend you skip the ripoff gimmicks and temporary fixes. Spend the money and get Talstar Pro and a spray bottle (if you don’t have one). It made a world of difference for us and wanted to spread the word that this stuff really works.
If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.