Fixed a Starting Problem on my Simplicity Broadmor 16 Hydro Tractor

We bought this Simplicity Broadmor 16HP lawn tractor back around 1999-ish and it has served us well.  In the years since, I’ve had to replace a few parts and figure things out as the dealer went out of business.  Luckily, finding parts is pretty straight forward given the WWW and Amazon.

At some point last summer, the tractor began to develop intermittent problems with starting when it was hot.  It didn’t happen all the time and was a bear to try and find – sometimes you’d turn the starter switch and nothing would happen.  Well, I just assumed it was the solenoid given similar problems with cars over the years.  I did some digging and bought both a solenoid and starter off of Amazon.  In the Simplicity, and many tractors for that matter, they are two separate parts mounted away from each other.  The solenoid is up under the dash held in place by two screws and the starter is held in place by two screws and a collar.

I ordered a Caltric Starter for the Kohler CV16 engine and it mounted up just fine.

I ordered a Stens 435-099 starter solenoid and it went in just fine as well.

Well, I thought I was set but the problem got worse.  In a ways, that was a good thing.  Because when the problem happens readily, you can sort out what is wrong.

This spring, when we got the tractor out, every time it would get hot it would not re-start.  I put my multimeter on the starter power cable and it was dead.  I did not hear any clicking from the solenoid either.  If I wiggled the switch then it might start but not always so the switch made me suspicious.  If I used jumper cables and went right to the starter, it would start and run no problem with the key one.  Okay, time to replace the switch.

I did some digging and the replacement switch was a Briggs and Stratton 1686734SM unit.  I got that on order from Amazon and waited for it to show up.

Now there is just a bit of a twist here that I want to share with folks to save you some time.  It turns out the tractor was built using an all plastic switch (groan) part number 1718305 that requires you to change the wiring in the connector.

Note the letters next to the male spades – this is how you confirm it is the 1718305 switch – the layout of the pins:

It just so happens that to use the replacement 1686734SM unit, you need to diagonally swap the four lower wires – upper left to lower right and upper right to lower left.  They recommend you label the wires before you do the swap – I just jotted down the color codes.

The following photo is from the instruction sheet that came with the switch — it’s actually well done and helped me figure this out:

Figure 2 shows the identifying marks for the plastic 1718305 switch and exactly matched what I had.

Figure 3 shows the pin out of the original connector

Figure 4 shows the new lay out.

In case you lose track of the wires for whatever reason, here are the color codes that are in my Broadmor by labeled connector pin:

  • A.  Red / White (meaning primarily red with a white stripe)
  • B.  Red — this is from the battery so make sure your battery is disconnected
  • G.  Black
  • L. Red/Black
  • M.  Purple/White
  • S. Blue/White

First, disconnect the negative cable from the battery or you risk some fireworks when you change the red/hot wire.

To change the wires around, I moved them a pair at a time – just the lower four are changing — I ran a small blade screw driver in and loosened the female spade fitting inside the connector and pulled it back out gently with a pair of needle nose pliers.  I then swapped the location and pushed each connector into the new location.

To seal the connections, I applied a layer of silicone grease on the female connector openings so that when the male spades pushed in, they would be coated with the grease.  I have a jar of Mission Automotive brand Silicone grease that I use all the time.

I then confirmed the layout one last time, sat on the tractor, made sure the engine was clear and started it.  Everything worked on the first try – a good sign.

The switch fit nicely inside the OEM hole.  It comes with extra parts for mounting and I just did what Simplicity did – I installed the switch, used the supplied hex nut to secure it on the front and pressed on the switch cover.  I then tested again just to be safe.

By the way, here are photos of the back of the installed switch:

I then mowed part of the lawn for 10-15 minutes and when the tractor was good and hot, I turned it off and back on several times.  I then let the tractor idle for about 10-15 minutes and again could turn it off and on with no problem.

I think the problem is solved as the tractor is still working just fine.  I wanted to post this in case you needed to know what to get from Amazon or see the wire colors and hope it helps you out.

7/20/19 Update:  I did the above in June 2018 and the tractor is still running just fine.  All of the above have held up without any problems.

5/23/20 Update:  Still holding up just fine.  I’ve mowed the yard two times this year.  No problems.


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Our New Polish Beryl Gen 2 Grip Model

The karabinek szturmowy wzór 1996 Beryl rifle is manufactured by the Łucznik Arms Factory in Radom, Poland and is the successor to the Tantal.  The first versions of the rifle had a rather typical AKM style grip.

With the kbs wz. 1996C Beryl variant, an ergonomic grip appeared that looked very similar to what the Israelis developed for their Galil Ultra.

So, after doing some digging, I tracked down a brand new copy of that ergonomic grip and made our version.  Note, I am simply calling it the second generation or gen 2.  That’s my naming and not the Pole’s.

You can see this is like our other grips – it is cast as a solid block and then a hole is drilled for a grip screw.  It is sized to fit a normal 100mm long screw like you find with most AKM grips.  “US” is cast into the back.  If you look at the throat, this ought to fit most rifles but some final fitting/fine tuning may be needed.  I have not tried putting this on a Yugo with their unique grip nut strap.

The original has grooves on the back but we will need to sand there so these ridges/lines on the backstrap will not be there.  We will sand and blast the grip so it evens out with the surrounding surfaces.

Here is the grip mounted on a Romy G AKM.  No fitting was needed – it went right on.

I wear size XL gloves and the top where the web of my hand from the index to the thumb would sit is just a tad small for me.  The grooves and thumb shelf are very comfortable and could be used with either hand.  For me, I prefer the Russian AK-12 grip or the Bulgarian ARM-9 grip.  I’d recommend this for folks who wear Medium to Large to sized gloves.  If you wear XL or bigger, you may find this a tad small at the top but it is very doable.  I hope to build a Beryl later this year and still plan to use this grip for myself.  I also left it on the Romy for further testing.  I think folks will like this grip regardless of whether they are building a Polish rifle or one from another country.

Click here to go to our online store if you are interested in learning more and/or buying one.

Please note the opening photos of the Beryl rifle are from Wikipedia.  They have a nice basic introduction to the Beryl if you’d like to learn more. 


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Check Out Joe’s Cool AMD-65 With Our Dark Russian Plum AMD Grips

Th e Hungarians made an interesting variant of the AK known as the AMD-65.  It had a folding stock, short barrel, unique muzzle brake, a front sheet metal handguard that is lower only, a gas tube that doesn’t have retainers for a gas tube cover (because it doesn’t useone) and, finally, the AMD-65 used two unique shaped grips in the front and the rear for better control while firing.

This is Joe’s AMD-65 and you can see he has a rifle-length barrel, wrapped the folder and added two of our AMD-65 grips in Dark Russian Plum.  The  grips have our blasted matte finish that makes them non-slip even when wet.

 


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Zastava O-PAP Rifle With One of Our Yugo M70 Grips

This is John’s Zastava O-PAP.  You can tell because it notably does not have the flip up grenade sign on the gas block.  It definitely has clean lines and you can see the bulged trunnion that is another clear indicator that this is the heavier duty O-PAP and not the N-PAP.

John’s rifle has one of our Yugo M70 grips on it.  The Yugoslavians and Zastava saved money by using this unique ergonomic grip on a number of their models including the various favors of the M70, M72, M85, and M92.

John’s grip is colored black and has our matte/blasted finish for a sure “hold” even when wet.

Click here for our order page.


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Great Step-by-Step AR Assembly Book For Novices – Very Well Done

Hey folks, if you are looking for an affordable book on how to assemble an AR rifle that is step-by-step with a ton of photos – check out Rob Reaser’s book “AR-15 Rifle Builder’s Manual: An Illustrated, Step-by-Step Guide to Assembling the AR-15 Rifle”.   I bought this because I have the Amazon Kindle app on my Samsung tablet and the book was real cheap so I figured why not – I might pick up something new.

This book is aimed at the novice and, to be clear, is an assembly guide.  It is not aimed at engineers or guys who want to really get into the guts from an armorer’s perspective.   The author literally walks a beginner through everything.  I’m not at that stage any more but I could really appreciate his attention to detail.

I know a lot of guys are intimidated by the thought of assembling an AR rifle but Mr. Reaser really does a nice job of stepping you through everything.  So, if you want to build your first AR – get either the Kindle ($7.99) or print edition of this book ($13.49).

Check Out John’s O-PAP With Our Bulged Handguard

John’s Zastava O-PAP looks good with our Bulged M70 handguard set.

Click here to open a new tab for our webstore page with the Bulged M70 handguard set.

 


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Our New Russian AK-12 Grip

Hi folks,

We have a new grip model based on the Russian AK-12.  Our grip has a very similar outward appearance and profile to the Russian grip but is cast solid and is made here in Michigan by us.  As a result, it counts as a 922r compliance part also.

The rifle is my personal FM-AK47-21 that has the cool Molot RPK side folder, a Chaos rail, the superb Vortex Sparc II red dot optic, and a Chaos rail and a JMAC RRD-4C brake.

I wear XL-size gloves and the grip feels very good in my hand and puts the rifle into a very natural position.  In looking at the top of the grip, I think it will fit any AKM rifle or a pistol with a typical grip nut and screw.  I think it would take some fitting to go on a Yugo with its unique riveted grip strap.

This grip is available for ordering now if you are interested – click here.

6/29/23 – We still make these and needed to change the design slightly. The “ears” that cradled the receivers were cracking due to slight differences in receiver outer diameters, the shape of the bend and that our plastic doesn’t really like to bend. So, if you go to the product page in our store you will notice the current model has the ears sanded off. The grip sits on the receiver like other grips and no longer cradles/straddles the receiver/


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Note, the Crossfire CR-RD1 red dot optic replaced the Sparc II shown in the photo.  I am using a Crossfire CF-RD1 on another rifle and really like it.


Mark’s M92 SBR With Our Yugo Grip

Mark’s SBR sure looks great!  He used the original wood furniture and one of our Yugo M70/M92 grips with a black blasted finish.

Here is a link to our grip’s order page – click here to open it in a new tab.


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When Strength and Quality Matter Most