Art shared this photo of his custom M92. I think the plum furniture really complements his SBR.
Category Archives: Uncategorized
Check out Chris’ Khyber Pass-Style AK with our Tula 6-2 grip
Chris put together this rifle and intentionally wanted it to look something assembled from parts in the Khyber Pass. I think he pulled it off!
The rifle has one of our Tula 6-2 grips on it in Dark Russian Plum. Because the think wax we apply oxidizes, the grip looks lighter than what it actually is and Chris wanted that mix-and-match look.
I definitely like the way the rifle turned out!!
(By the way – Click here if you want to know the wax I recommend for bringing out the color in our furniture.)
A Chaos Rail on a FM-AK47-21 Vepr Rocks!
When the government announced they were going to ban the further import of Molot firearms, I jumped and bought one of the Fime FM-AK47-21 side folding AK-47 Veprs.


The rifle was absolutely awesome except for one regard – I really did not like the ribbed RPK handguard. Now this is the handguard on the Russian RPks and the ribs help with cooling and moving the hand away from the surface of the handguard — the design is genuinely thought out … but I do not like the feel. It’s as simple as that.
With that in mind, I started digging on options. On one hand I could make a new polymer set based on a mint RPK handguard set I picked up along the way. After a while, I changed my mind as the time and cost to create the molds didn’t make a lot of business sense as the Veprs weren’t going to be imported and demand would presumably be low and I would not recover the investment.
So, I researched other options and a firm I didn’t know much about kept popping up – Chaos, Inc. [Note: Chaos has gone out of business. Not sure why.] They made a well regarded handguard that looked great to me and reports on the feel and quality were very good. An important design point is that it connects like a handguard and doesn’t clamp anything on the barrel to transfer heat. That was a beef I had with the Midwest Industries rail design I tried years ago. It required the installation of a clamp on the barrel.
At any rate, I decided on the Chaos Apollo FM11L Keymod handguard. By the way, Chaos does not list on their website that this FM11L will fit the FM-AK47-21 side folder so I called them. The guy I talked to said they would take a return if it didn’t fit and I didn’t beat it up. I was pretty sure it would fit so I went ahead and ordered it.
The rail arrived about a week later and decided to install it when time permitted. The following is a quick overview of the steps required:
1] Make sure your rifle is unloaded! I can’t stress this enough.
2] Push in the dust cover retainer at the rear and remove the cover.
3] Remove the operating rod and the bolt carrier group.
4] You will need to rotate the gas tube retaining lever to remove the gas tube. Now this thing is on incredibly tight. I thought Zastava had very tight levers but they have nothing on Molot. You will either need non-marring pliers or a polymer or wood punch to swing the lever up clockwise until the gas tube assembly can lift out.
5] On the right side of the lower handguard retainer, you will see a small lever laying parallel with the barrel. It will need to be rotated 180 degrees towards the muzzle and this is another incredibly tight fit. I had to use stout needle nose pliers in order to rotate it. Once rotated, you can slide the handguard retainer forward. You may find you need to tap it a bit with a rubber mallet – I did.

6] Now, you need to remove the gas tube cover and this is one of the questions I get asked most frequently. The cover is a semi-circle and rotates out of the semi-circular shaped retainers. Clamp the forged steel end (not the tubular end or you will crush it) and firmly rotate the cover. You may find it turns easier clockwise or counter-clockwise and either way is fine. Rotate it 180 degrees either way and then you can pull it away from the tube.




7] Next up is to install the Apollo FM11 lower. This is where their engineering prowess really shows. Their rail is two parts so remove the three hex screws from each side and set the upper half to the side for the moment.

8] Now unscrew the bottom screws and slide the internal aluminum part backwards out of the way. This part will actually slide into the handguard retainer and lock the unit into place. This is why there is a slot for the retainer. Look at the fitment of the parts – they thought this out. Be sure to screw in the set screws also to lock things in place.


9] For the next part, you install the lower by putting the rear tab into the front of the receiver just the same as any AK-style handguard. Now the front requires you to get the retainer in the right place to nestle into the lower. Get the angle right and slide the internal aluminum retainer part into the handguard retainer and screw the internal part back together. The angle must be right so if you can’t get that internal insert to slide into place, move the handguard’s front up and down until it does. Then swing the handguard retainer lever back into position – it will be a tight fit so tap it into place with a rubber mallet. It would not take a ton of pressure – if it does, check fitment. Over the years I have read guys put a ton of pressure on the levers and snap them – the pressure required is firm and you should see movement as you tap the lever into place. They key is tapping and not trying to do one big “mongo smash” hit to rotate the lever. Once done, the lower should be absolutely rock solid – mine sure is.

10] I then installed the gas tube. Nothing attaches to the gas tube so you can remove or install it as needed. I then used my rubber mallet to tap the catch lever back into position.

11] I then installed the gas tube cover by lining up the holes and installing the screws.


At this point it is done. I installed a Vortex Sparc II nice and low on the rail. I like the cheekweld when I rotate the cheekpiece into position. It does NOT co-witness with the iron sights but I really didn’t care about that – I can remove the sight real fast if I ever need to.
I really, really like the fit and feel of this rail. My side folder can lock folded. I did not need to change anything to support the folder.
Here is the end result:


I hope this helps you out!
If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.
Zastava PAP M70 and Military M70 Buttstocks and Recoil Pads No Longer Match
Hello everyone,
We make a recoil pad for the military Yugo M70, M72 and M76 rifles [click here for the listing]. The original was rubber over a steel pad and was often very beat up when guys bought kits or rifles made from kits. So, I hunted down pristine original recoil pads and made molds to cast rubber replacements.
Here are the approximate measures for the stock this pad fits on:
- Screwhole centers are about 3.25″ apart
- From top inside lip of butt of the stock to bottom inside lip is: 4.20″
- Top to bottom of the butt outside or overall height is 4.48″
- Left to right inside lip edge of the butt at the widest point s 1.29″
- Outside edge left to right at the widest point is 1.63″
- The lip that the recoil pad sits on all the way around is about 0.17″
Starting in mid-2017 we started getting word from our customers that our military-sized pads were not fitting the new commercial PAP M70 rifles being imported into the US. It would appear that Zastava has changed the buttstock — presumably to cut cost. It is smaller and the telltale for consumers is that it has a solid steel stamped butt plate. The following photo is of an original Yugo M70 military-style recoil pad next to the new commercial PAP steel butt plate:
This next photo just shows an edge view – the white box is just propping them up:
Bottom line is that the stocks are different and our recoil pad will not fit the PAP M70. I’m hoping to get the word out to reduce confusion.
Please note that at this time, I do not have plans to make a commercial PAP-sized recoil pad as there has not been sufficient demand thus far.
If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.
Video: Forgotten Weapons: British Submachine Gun Overview: Lanchester, Sten, Sterling, and More!
I have lately become very interested in sub machine gun class weapons, or SMGs. I’ve built a number of 9mm ARs over the years and while they are interesting and fun to shoot, there’s not much history to dig into. So, I have been researching British Stens for a while now and the history that led up to them and the thinking behind “good enough” to get the job done vs. perfection is fascinating. It’s really intriguing when you see what folks can create when expediency is the name of the game.
To launch the series, I am posting this awesome video from Ian over at Forgotten Weapons. He always does an excellent job researching what he is going to cover and then walking the viewer through what he is presenting. In this video he provides an overview about the British Lanchester, Sten and Sterling.
If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.
Check Out Ken’s M70 With Our Bulged Lower Handguard
A quick and easy way to snug up a loose flip-up lens cap so it stays on
I like flip-up scope caps and, in general, I have had very good luck with Butler Creek. Recently, I bought a scope cap for my Hawke air rifle scope’s front objective and the thing wasn’t tight enough to stay on when I would flip it up. There’s a very simple way to fix a loose cap that I want to share.
This isn’t a magical fix – you do want a cap to be real close to the size you need. In my case the cap was just a hair too big. For the “fix”, remove the objective and smear a bit of black silicone RTV glue or Black Goop works too) around the inside of the cap and let the glue fully cure with the cap off the scope. DO NOT STICK IT ON THE SCOPE WHILE WET! You are using the glue to add mass and fill the space – you do not want to glue your scope on. I let my dry overnight and the problem is always fixed.
Here is the lens cap and I used black Goop on this one and let it dry & cure all the way before I reinstalled it. It’s nice and snug now.


Here’s the finished product on my Galadius:

I hope this helps you out. I prefer black just for looks but you could use any color of rubbery cement you have – just keep it inside the cap out of sight. What I use more than anything is Permatex Black RTV just because I keep in stock for repairs.
If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.
Video: How to Choose a Geissele or ALG Defense Trigger With Bill Geissele – The Man Himself!
For years I have have heard how great Geissele (pronounced Guys-Lee) triggers are. They offer a ton of models so I actually called them and talked about what trigger to use for a target rifle – which is the rifle shown above. After some talking, the gentleman I talked to recommended their Super Semi-Automatic Enhanced (SSA-E) trigger. I bought it direct from them and have been very happy. Here are the SSA-E specs on the trigger direct from the Geissele web page:
Type: | 2 Stage |
1st Stage Weight: | 2.3lbs. |
2nd Stage Weight: | 1.2lbs. |
Total Pull Weight: | 3.5lbs. |
Adjustable: | No |
Recommended Use: | Target Shooting, Precision Shooting |
Pin Size: | Mil-Spec |
After shooting with it, I can tell you it is my favorite AR trigger hands down. Now I know why guys swear by them. The only con is the cost but you are definitely getting value in return.
I was surfing around on Youtube and found this video today – I wish I had known about it before as it would have helped me also. Bill Geissele, the man himself, walks you through their 15 models of triggers and answers common questions he gets about them. I definitely want to try one of their Super 3-Gun (S3G) or Super Dynamic 3-Gun (SD-3G) triggers in the future and will definitely go the SSA-E route again if I build another precision rifle.
By the way, unless you are in a rush, Geissele triggers go on sale 2-3 times per year at Midway, Brownells, Primary Arms and other sources. I paid $240 for my trigger and could have saved 40% if I had timed my purchase better. That’s what I am doing with my 3-Gun trigger purchase – just waiting for the next sale.
If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.