Category Archives: AK & Related Rifles

Used to discuss AK-47, AK-74, and related rifles

Video: Dmirty Rogozin “KALASHNIKOV” – You absolutely need to watch this English Language Kalashnikov Documentary

 

This is a very interesting 45 minute film made in 2013 that talks about the Kalashnikov from a Russian film maker.  It has a lot of footage of military commentary including interviews of generals, soldiers and show training with Spetsnaz units and others doing room clearing, assaults and so forth.  There is also historical footage of use around the world and interviews with Mikhail Kalashnikov.  It’s a fascinating film and has perspectives, footage and interviews you would not normally see in a Western made documentary.

I found the history of Izhvesk and arms making fascinating.  Kalshnikov Corporation sponsored this film so I think it is part history and part marketing but very enlightening regardless.  The walkthrough of parts of the factory ranging from manual up to CNC.  The last photo above is of a robot feeding blanks and removing rifled barrels.  They mention reducing the number of steps required with people from around 120 to 2-3.

Even if you have seen other videos about the rifle and General Kalashnikov, you need to watch this one.  You see parts of the factory and steps performed that you will not see anywhere else.


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Video: Legendary Kalashnikov: Story of AK-47 Rifle (RT’s Documentary)

I have a number of books both about the Kalashnikov rifles and also biographies of Mikhail Kalashnikov, the chief designer.  I always find documentaries of either the rifle or the man very interesting.  This particular video combines some fascinating footage about current use, manufacturing and testing with historical information and perspectives on Mikhail Kalashnikov vs. Stoner.

The video was released in 2013 and is 25:57 minutes long and is well worth the time.


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Post It Note Trick for Locating Front Trunnion Holes On An AK Receiver

Back before I had the AK-Builder trunnion drilling jig, I needed a quick and easy way to locate where to drill the holes for the front trunnion.  A fellow showed me the PostIt note method and boy was it simple and it worked.

The front trunnion is drilled for the rivets from the first kit so those holes need to be located and drilled on the receiver.

Simply take a standard PostIt Note, stick it to the side of the clean receiver and then rub a dirty finger or pencil lead over the PostIt to see the outlines of the holes appear.  By the way, if the trunnion and receiver are clean, your Post-It adhesive will hold the note in place, which is what you want.

So line the PostIt note up on the receiver’s top and right edges.

Center punch the holes.  I like using an automated punch so I have less to juggle.

You then have your holes to locate your drill.

Use a hole finder to be more accurate and/or start with a small bit and work your way up in case you need to move a little bit one way or the other.

That’s it.  Easy as pie and pretty fool proof.  Lessons learned for me was to clean the parts to protect the adhesive, make sure the edges are aligned and then that nothing moves when you punch each hole.  You do one Post-It note for each side and you can write the trunnion serial number on it and safe the Post-It for future reference.


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Gasp – not another weld build Romy G

I get one or two emails a year from a purist telling me that what I did was evil, that I am a clueless half-wit, etc. Folks, innovation happens by trying new things. I have built more AKs than most – using rivets mainly because they do work best. There are a ton of reasons why rivets are best for joining forged blocks to sheet metal.

In terms of welds, do I understand the risk of destroying the heat treat in the locking lug area, the risk of causing embrittlement around the plug welds, that the Soviets explored this and dropped the idea due to cracking? Yes, I do and tried it anyway because I wanted to explore how to compensate. So, don’t send me hate mail me because I will not bother responding.

If you want to try and experiment, go for it. Should you do this with an AK build that you want to be historically accurate or plan to use heavily perhaps even under full auto, then the answer is “no – don’t do it”.

Yeah, these things were like $79-99 in June 2006 so I did a lot of playing around including experimenting with weld builds.  I still have this one and it runs just fine.  The welds were done with a HF 120 Volt MIG welder running an ArC02 shielding gas.  Basically I did plug welds in place of rivets but did some extra welding on the back trunnion as I expected more stress there.  The lower rails were installed with a 120 Volt Harbor Freight Spot Welder with an AK-Builder tong installed.

My basic conclusion is that welding is fine for casual use rifles but rivets are the way to go with hard use.  The tricks are to take your time, do plug welds and watch your heat.  Your not trying to weld the heck out everything – just to get a decent plug weld to lock the parts into position in place of a rivet.  You’ll notice that for the critical front trunnion, I actually drilled the holes in the receiver and plug welded into the trunnion that had the rivets drilled out.

I use a flap sanding wheel on my angle die grinder to smooth everything down.

A drill bit with the right diameter to line the lower rails up with the front trunnion is used to position the lower rail for spot welding in place.

I went for overkill welding in the rear and put in a few extra beads to take up stress.

Welding in the center support and sanded it down too

This is the rifle ready for testing.

I did Duracoat on this build and two big recommendations I would make to folks who choose to use the air dry Duracoat are to at least abrasive blast the surface and absolutely wait the full amount of time indicated for curing, which is 1-2 weeks or something like that.  If you don’t do these two things, when you move the selector lever, it will scratch the finish off right to the bare metal.  I only use bake on finishes now.  I’ve had great luck with blasting, parking and then applying Molyresin on top but this last step could be whatever finish you want.  The parkerizing is a terrific surface for a finish to really grab a hold of.  A bake on finish is really the way to go with the top coat.

If I new they were going to go up so much in value, I would have done rivets.  Heck, I would have done all the rifles using rivets had I known.  I was just having a lot of fun and learning a ton.


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Heat Treating the Lower Rails of AK Flats Before Installation

I like to heat treat my entire lower rails before I install them. Some guys just heat treat the tip but I go for overkill.  When I would get flats and rails from AK-Builder for whatever I was doing, I’d do all the lower rails at once and store them oiled in a bag for later use.

The process is simple, I heat them up with a torch to dull to medium orange, which comes out to around 1500-1600F.  Some guys use magnets and stop the heathing when magnetism is lost, some use marker/applied heat indicators – there are many ways to do it.  I tend to use my sheet metal/jewelers oxy-acetelene torch. It is known as a Meco Midget and the thing is awesome for sheet metal work.  I’ve had mine for over 10 years and never had a problem.  I have a giant Journeyman II set but find it too big and cumbersome for stuff like this.

Tin Man Technologies (TM Tech), who I got mine from years ago and you will need to search around for it or find what some call a jeweler’s torch

Next, quench the parts in room temperature used engine oil.  It works great for me.  I have an old navy fuse can with a lid glued to a piece of wood that I use for this purpose.

After that, I anneal them by putting them in a flat pan, pouring in some brake fluid with some paper towel exposed, lighting the towel and then letting it all burn it off, which is about 500.  It’s messy and you want to do it outdoors for sure – I let it all burn off and then air cool.  Some guys put them in a toaster oven at 500F for 5-10 minutes and let them slowly cool down by turning the oven off.  That works too.

Here the rails right after the brake fluid is finished burning off – you can see some of the soot that is generated:

When you weld the rails in with a spot welder, just be careful not to ruin the heat treat by letting a tong get up against the ejector tip and heating up.  I’ve done it twice over the years.  One time I didn’t notice and had to repair a peened over ejector and the other time I saw the discoloring of the tip and did a spot hardening of the ejector tip while it was in the receiver.

At any rate, I’d then oil everything and put them in a ziploc bag for future use.  I would sand the backs of the rails prior to installation to get good spot welds.

While I use OA for a lot of my work, MAPP works just fine too.



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Back in the stone age we had to mill our own top AK receiver rails!

Back when AK-Builder flats didn’t have the top rails cut to size, we had to do the work.  I’m talking circa 2006 and then late that year he came out with a simple layout tool that was so awesome.  You applied Blue Dychem do your flat, clamped the layout jig to the rail, used a scribe to mark the profile and then you came through with your mill (or Dremel) and cut out the shape.  It was faster than doing it all by hand and the one plus was that you could get the exact spacing between the upper rails that you wanted.

Setting an AK’s Internal Front Trunnion Rivets with the AK-Builder rivet jig

It’s pretty straight forward really.  You need to insure the rivet jig is sitting on good strong steel cross plates – don’t use wood.  I’ve seen guys try so don’t laugh too hard.  For the record – that one I never tried – I used 1/2″ steel plate from the get go.  Wood is not your friend under high pressures.

Be sure  to use the right rivets – AK-Builder sells the best rivets and tailors them to what you are building.  Lay them all out and identify what rivets are for the front, the swell neck rivets for the lower back of the front trunnion, etc.  A rivet should stick out 1.5x its diameter – that’s it.  Just for example and to keep the math easy for me, a 4mm rivet should only stick out 6mm.  If you go further, you are going to have problems.  As you get experienced, you can buy rivets in bulk and use rivet trimmers but you might want to save that for down the road.

Make sure the rivet and your receiver are all nice and square and that the little cup is under the rivet’s head to support it.  Make sure everything is nicely supported too.  If you don’t you will bend the receiver.  When I make cautions, it’s usually because I did it the wrong way already at some point 🙂

Only extend the rivet arm the minimum amount necessary.  The longer it sticks out, the easier it is to bend it.  I’ve done that and you may too.  If you do, just bend it straight again by pulling it out of the jig, supporting it by steel block and press it straight.

Now go slow.  Speed will only help you mess up faster, especially if you are new to this.  Extend the little set screw enough to squish the rivet and clear the trunnion walls.

Do not go crazy with the pressure.  You want to squish the rivet, not start bending stuff.  The rivet swells inside the hole and and the end caps it – that is all you need to accomplish.  Too much pressure and tooling starts to bend.

 


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First Romy G Build – October 2006!

So I have been taking photos of guns and tools for years and years and year.  I just recently decided to start dipping in and sharing.  I was pretty floored to find this collection of photos of my first build.  It was a 1981 Romanian G pattern AKM, affectionately known to many AK builders as a Romy G.  I’d invested in AK-Builder tools and used them and a big 20 ton hydraulic H-frame press to do the work.  You’ll notice the older AK-Builder flat bending jig is shown.  They worked great and the only drawback I ever noticed, and it was not a big one, was that the flats need to have a positioning hole for a roll pin at the end of each flat.  This definitely was not a big deal but he did evolve the design to not need that later on.

You can also see the old style AK-Builder flats.  They were great to bend but you really needed your act together to do the top rail.  I actually botched this first one and made the rails too narrow.  Because of this, the gap between the upper rails was too wide and the bolt carrier kept popping out.  So, I did a new one and was very careful to get the rails held in place nice and rigid plus I would mill a little and test, mill a little and test to dial the fit in.

I bought a HF mini mill so I could get better looking and more consistent upper rails.  Note the 3″ milling vise.  I bought that from Little Machine Shop and it works great.  I still have both the mini mill and the vise.  My one comment on the mini mill is that it is light duty.  On my bucket list is a full size mill at least with a digital read out (DRO) if not with CNC.  To this day I do a lot of “eye balling” of work and would like to be more precise.  Also, I eventually moved away from oak wood fillers to precise steel blocks at some later date.  The fun thing about writing this up later is that I recall lessons learned and stuff but remembering dates has never been a forte of mine.  As I used the mill more, I really learned to value work holding systems.  Old timers’ advise of “take the time set it up right so the work doesn’t move” proved to be a life lesson I draw on to this day.

Here’s the 1981 parts kit.  Notice how nice and smooth the barrel is machined.  Starting around 1983, the quality started going down hill and you’d see kits where the barrels literally had turning marks going down them that almost looked like threading.  By the way, the “G” series AKs were actually well made semi-auto rifles despite one some detractors would say.  They were made for the Patriotic Guard hence the “G” for Garda.

   

The wood was always so coated with goop, I would spray them down with Bix wood stripper several times until I got down to the wood and would then do finish sanding.  Now on this rifle I used satin polyurethane and over the years moved to boiled linseed oil as the latter was very easy to fix/maintain.  I used a number of reddish brown Minwax stains over the years.  I think that was red oak.

   

I had AK-Builder rivet jigs but I didn’t take photos of them while doing this build for some reason.

Here was the end result.  I would have used a US slant brake, Tapco G2 FCG and that might be a Tapco or generic brown US grip.  I used to get most of my parts from Copes, Centerfire and DPH Arms back in the day.  The finish was Duracoat but I stopped using it after a few years and moved to a combination of parkerizing and Molyresin that held up great.  The AK’s selector lever can wear a strip through a finish real fast.

I kept this around but shot it less and less then when the kits skyrocketed to about $300, I cut the receiver off and sold the kit.  The funds went to other projects but with 20/20 hindsight, I wish I had kept it for nostalgia.   My dad and other family members all had fun shooting this rifle.

 


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