Tag Archives: Pool

DIY - Do It Yourself, Home Repair, Miscellaneous

Want an affordable pool cleaning robot that works? Try the Seauto Crab

We bought our home in 1998 and it came with a 20×40 in-ground pool. Here we are 26 years later and I will tell you that a pool is way more maintenance than you think if you’ve never had a pool. We have tons of great memories of the kids growing up, pool parties with them and family visits that have made it worth it. These days, the hardest thing for me is the routine cleaning of the pool because it takes so long. It could take anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours depending on how dirty it was because I didn’t have time to keep it clean continually. I have to balance a day job, my own business and family — that doesn’t leave time for pool cleaning.

This past spring (May 2024), before we even opened the pool, my wife I are started wondering if a pool robot might be worth it because I just do not have the time any more to do it. We’d dismissed this in past years due to the cost. Well, it was time to revisit that.

Prices had dropped a lot and there were tons and tons of options on Amazon. There are pool robots out there with all kinds of price points and we paid close attention to the size pool the manufacturer said they could handle and what angles. The last part mattered because our pool has a 3-4′ shallow end and then about a 9′ deep end with an angle at the transition between the two and angles near the bottom of the deep end. We also wanted it to be battery operated.

After reading a many, many reviews and visiting websites, we decided to buy the 2024 edition of the Seauto Crab [click on this link to open the listing at Amazon in a new tab]. At the time, with a coupon applied and taxes added in, the total was $423.99. It may seem like a lot of money, and it is, but there are far more expensive robots out there and we had to do something. In checking the pricing now, it’s $359.99 before tax with free shipping.

This photo was from June 24th – I just put the robot in the pool. The treads on the left and right of the unit move it. There are black rubber wheels with flaps on them both front and rear that do the cleaning and push debris towards the inlet. The blue LED shows it is on and charged. My best guess is that the two silver “dots” just below the blue inverted “U” are sensors that tell the unit if it is submerged or not. It will not turn its electric motors on unless it is underwater and also tell it when its out of the water when cleaning the side walls of the pool.

Now, most robots get very mixed reviews and the Crab was no different. My strategy was to order it, put it to immediate use and rely on the Amazon warranty. If you have an electronic device, the odds that it will fail are the greatest within the first 30 days statistically so use the heck out of it and find out. Absolutely do not let it sit in the box – put it to immediate use. Amazon will back you up if there is a problem in those first 30 days.

I timed the purchase so we would get it, charge it and drop it in the pool. There was a few day delay when UPS accidentally routed the box to Texas and then set it back to Michigan but it was delivered on June 17th and was first dropped in the water on the 18th.

We had just opened our pool and did the initial vacuuming but it was still pretty messy. I was charging and deploying the Crab 2-3 times per day for the first week. It tapered off to the point where I now do it daily – by the way, I am writing this on August 9, 2024.

The pool was definitely a mess. I’d drop in the crab, let it run until it shut down, charge and do it again. This photo was taken on June 18th at 5:24pm.
This is on June 19th at 7:28am. It was just getting ready to drop it in the pool. It had probably run 1-2 cycles at this point.
June 20th at 12:27pm. Probably 4-6 cycles at this point.
June 26th at 3:52pm. Most of the debris was gone. Some of what you see were patterns on our pool liner. I did not do any vacuuming or use of a leaf bag. This was all the robot. In fact, I have not vacuumed the pool since we bought the robot. I did occasionally use a leaf bag use for small branches or to clean maple leafs off the surface. I also have brushed algae of spots on the wall twice but nothing like the old days.
June 15th at 6:50pm. The pool was in amazing shape. We have a big maple tree nearby and leaves drop in the pool. Eventually they sink and the crab picks them up.
June 24th – one of the funniest things during the first couple of weeks was watching one our dogs watch the robot. This is Hercules – he ignores it now but he just couldn’t figure out what it was. It sure startled him the first time it came up out of the water doing a wall 🙂

I did some math and we’ve used it 53 days now and well over that many times so maybe 75 times on average let’s say. As I am writing this blog post, it’s out there doing its job cleaning the pool and our pool has never been this clean.

The pool is amazingly clean. The bottom has never been this clean – ever. I’m very impressed.

Let’s Get Into Some Details

The unit arrived fully assembled and consists of the Seauto Crab unit, a charger and a retrieval hook that goes on your pool pole – assuming you have a standard full size pool pole. All you need to do is charge the unit for the first time. The top LED will turn blue when charged and then turn off after a few minutes.

The manual is a quick read – no huge insights but it does help you learn more about the unit and what the color codes of the top LED mean.

When you plug in the charger, a light on the unit turns red and goes out when it is done. The unit will run about 2-2.5 hours on a charge. The overwhelming majority of the time at least, it gets near a wall and shuts itself off. I don’t know if it’s by luck or design but I can only think of one time out of 75+ cycles where it was towards the middle of the pool. It makes retrieval with the pool pole and hook very easy.

This is how I find it most of the time when I go out and check after a few hours. The LED on top has changed from blue (charged) to red (discharged) and it usually stops by a wall. I have to think this behavior is programmed as it almost always stops by a wall – not the same spot but by a wall somewhere in the pool.
I’ll find it in the pool with the red light on. I’ll pull it out, spray it off, clean the filter basked and then hook it up to charge in our pool shed.

There is an app for it and it let’s you set the speed of the robot and whether it just does the floor, walls or both (All cover mode). When we first started cleaning the pool, it was pretty dirty on the bottom so I set it to slow and floor only with the app each time – it doesn’t recall the setting.

The app connects to the robot via Bluetooth and it doesn’t take very much water to block the signal so I would set it before I put it in the pool. Now, I just drop it in the pool in all cover mode.

I should point out a reason you need the app – once or twice it has automatically downloaded and installed a firmware update to the Crab. Obviously there’s some type of computer in there.

It actually does a really good job cleaning. Debris is sucked into the bottom and filtered through a very fine mesh basket. If there is something that will not fit in the bottom slot, it’s not going to be able to pick it up but that thing vacuums up all kinds of stuff. If the baskets gets plugged up, I imagine it would no longer be able to clean but I didn’t encounter that – maybe at the start but not that I can recall.

I honestly did not know what to expect. Did it have sensors? Would it move in a grid? Did it know where it had gone? Well, it does its job through random motions. It can’t do our entire pool and the walls in one charge. When the pool was really dirty, I could see it was making progress each time. Now, it is maintaining everything.

It’s fascinating how it does walls. It has a thruster (enclosed propellor) on the top. It turns on, the Crab engages it’s tracks and it goes right up the pool wall. There are sensors on the top that tell it when it has gone out of water and it goes back down. When it first did it, one of our dogs just did not know what to make of it and stood on the edge of the pool a few feet away just watching it.

The robot is using its thruster and going up the wall while scrubbing it. Another perk of all this activity is that it really keeps the water moving around and we have fewer spots of warm vs cold water plus the chlorine gets around better. It seems like we have less algae than in the past. I had to solar copper ionizers last year also. The only difference is the robot. I still have to put a brush on the pole but it happens a lot less – maybe only twice so far this season have I needed to brush off algae starting in some spot.

Somehow, the thing remains upright. I carry it by the handle and place it in the water. It sinks down and engages its thruster – maybe its orienting itself I am not sure. If it is clipping right along and goes down the decline into the deep end, it actually pops a wheelie with the front of the crab lifting up slightly as the unit propels itself downward with the rear tracks and flap wheel.

I will set it down in the water and it slowly sinks evenly to the bottom. Once there, it kicks on its thruster – maybe as a test or something – and off it goes. I have never found it upside down in all the cycles that I have run it.
June 19th – the crab only had this happen once. It was cleaning the steps and got stuck. It you notice, the top is pointing at a back and downward angle. I want to say the app downloaded and applied two firmware updates since we bought it – definitely one for sure – and this has never happened again. All I can guess is that either Seauto discovered this situation and fixed it themselves or they got feedback from customers. It still regularly does the stairs so it’s not avoiding them – it just seems to be able to navigate them correctly now. Hercules, our dog who was the most curious about what was going on, had no idea what to make of the robot.

I should point our locomotion is via a rubber track/tread (like a bulldozer or tank) on each side. There are flap wheels in the front and back that are cleaning the surface and funneling debris towards the inlet where the filter basket is at.

Like I said earlier, it runs until power gets low, seems to almost always stop by a side and I fish it out. You take the clear top cover off and then the cover of the filter basket. I use a hose and water to clean the mesh filtering basket and spray the debris into a bucket. I then toss the water and debris into a corner of the yard. It takes less than five minutes to clean everything. I do like to rinse the unit off so the chlorine contact is lessened. Chlorine is an oxidizer and it will take its toll on plastics and rubbers over time.

These next photos may make it look like it takes a lot to dump the filter and clean the crab but I can pull it out, clean it and start it charging in less than five minutes. The first thing you do is flip out and down the grey tabs on each side of the clear outside housing. By the way, these next photos are from a few different cleanings taken at different times so there are different amounts of debris in them.
Next you are looking at the actual clear cover of the filter. Yes – two covers – the outer one and the filter one. To remove this, lightly press on the black tabs on the left and right that are sticking up and lift up. Sometimes I have fine sand sitting in the depressed areas on top of this cover and I just hose the cover off. Actually, I always hose the unit off during each step of disassembly to both get rid of any debris and to get the chlorine off the plastic.
This was on July 16th. We had quite a storm and there were a lot of leaves that had fallen in the pool and sunk to the bottom. The unit can scoop up quite a bit assuming the debris can fit in the intake slot on the bottom.
This is from a cleaning on July 15th. I wanted to point out the rubber flap on the bottom. Water and debris are pushed up and the rubber flap bends open to let them in. When it stops, the rubber flap closes trapping the debris inside. There have been a few times, not a lot, where something had prevented the flap from fully seating so when I pulled the unit out of the water I could see some debris sinking down as the water drained from the unit.
The filter basket is a fine mesh. It even traps sand.
I rinse the filter basket out and have the water and debris drop into an old chlorine bucket. It doesn’t take much to get it all out. I cleaned the bucket before cleaning and then after so you could see the sizes of various debris it picks up. I’ve had a few times where a small end of a branch with leaves on it falls in and the unit can’t pick that up but it’s the exception thankfully.
Some fine sand gets caught inside and I just rinse it out while I rinse off the unit overall. The yellow you see on the burgundy deck stain is sand from prior cleanings.

I did find one small issue – the clear top outer cover doesn’t readily just go into place on our unit. You never want to force or whack plastic into place because eventually it will snap. I found a workaround – If I put the cover on and stop just short of all the way down and lightly pull the left side outwards, it goes right on without forcing. It might just be our unit that has that issue but that’s the only “trick” I can think to pass along.

I then put the unit in our pool shed on a plastic bin that just happens to be there and plug the unit in to charge. I think it charges in about three to four hours – I’ve never stopped to really time it.

That’s it. I’m perfectly happy with it and so is my wife. She’s actually given it a pet name of “Flounder”. I usually call it the pool robot still but she and the kids now call it Flounder … ok, whatever works 🙂

In looking at reviews on Amazon, I’d take them with a grain of salt. I never expected artificial intelligence, a miracle worker or a $400 robot compared against a $2,500 robot. I also knew that I needed to put it to immediate use and that it might fail – it didn’t. If it had, I would have worked directly with Amazon to get a refund. I didn’t need to.

How long will it last? I honestly don’t know. I will rinse it down and store it indoors when Winter comes and we’ll see next Spring. We still have until late-September when we close the pool for the season. If something changes, I’ll update this post.

Would I recommend the unit based on experience? Yes, I definitely would. You have to understand something – our pool has never ever been this consistently clean. I still have to add chlorine, keep the water chemistry in check, clean the copper ionizers and the skimmer but my time vacuuming has gone away – I haven’t vacuumed once since we bought the crab. I have used a leaf bag on the pool pole a few times but boy did I free up time and get a clean pool.

I use it once a day now to maintain the pool and the results are amazing. I’m so busy that if I do anything it comes at the expense of something else. I can make the time to put it in the pool (2-3 minutes) and then pull it out, clean it and hook it up to the charger (less than five minutes) for results like this.

Summary

Our experience with the Seauto Crab 2024 edition has been great. I would even use the word “amazing” to describe the unit. If you want to cover yourself, buy it off Amazon (I did), run the heck out of it and if there is a defect, it will probably happen in the first 30 days while Amazon’s warranty coverage is still active.

If you’re looking for a $350-400 price point pool robot, it’s doing a great job for us. Hopefully you will have the same experience as us.

I hope this post helps you out. To be clear, I wasn’t paid to write this and have no affiliation with Seauto. I’m sharing our experience with the crab and if you want to buy it from one of the Amazon links on this page then great – I’ll get a small commission and want to be clear that I wouldn’t write this if it was a disappointment.

Click here for the listing on Amazon.

Note, I have to buy all of my parts – nothing here was paid for by sponsors, etc. I do make a small amount if you click on an ad and buy something but that is it. You’re getting my real opinion on stuff.

If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.

DIY - Do It Yourself, Home Repair

Add A Pool Ionizer to Save Money on Chlorine, Clarifier and Your Time!

We live in Southwest Michigan, have an older 40,000 gallon in-ground pool surrounded by trees and all kinds of vegetation. It seemed like trying to keep the pool clean was a never ending job. In July 2022 a friend recommeded that I buy a pool ionizer to clarify our pool and cut down on algae. The results are promising so let me explain.

Background

On Amazon there are a ton of companies selling solar power pool ionizers. They basically look like a mushroom with solar cells on a flat top and then a 10-12″ cylinder that goes down in the water. In that cylinder is a mesh basket filter, a steel spring and a copper-silver anode.

The solar cells generate direct current (DC) voltage with the negative going to the copper cylinder-silver anode. The postive voltage goes to the metal spring that is the cathode and it encircles the anode with a slight gap in between. The slight current causes positively charged copper-silver “cat-ions” to come off the anode and then they float in the water until they bond with negatively charged microorganisms, such as bacteria and algae, and cause them to break down and due. Your filter then removes them.

Is this dangerous? No, the voltage and current are really low. The use of silver and copper to clean/purify surfaces has been known for hundreds of years. So, it’s definitely proven.

What did I buy?

Well, I read reviews on Amazon plus the friend recommended the model I bought. I went sith the EAAZPOOL Solar Ionizer for a 45,000 gallon pool. They make one for smaller pools but I needed this larger one.

The unit arrived nicely packed. I have not needed to use their customer support so far.

Assembly is super easy – turn the solar cell covered main unit upside down, screw in the anode on the bottom, put the spring in place, put the basket on and then use the plastic thumb screw to hold everything in place. It also comes with a big rubber band that you put around the outside of the main body to further seal the seam where the top and bottom halves of the case come together. You then place it in the water and it runs when the sunlights hits it.

Put the rubber band arund the “equator” or outside midde of the unit to further seal it. Note, you need to set the unit in the pool. I tossed it in once and the rubber band popped off. No harm done – I just fished it out and put the band on – no more tossing it in either.

If you disassemble the unit in a few days and check you will notice the surface of the copper-silver rod will be getting discolored and over time it will even become pitted.

About once a week you take the unit part and wire brush the anode and the wire cathode, plus rinse out the basket.

To take the unit apart, turn the plastic butterful screw counter-clockwise until it pulls out.
The basket and the spring cathode lift right off the unit. You can see the green corrosion. That’s after about 1-2 weeks.
The corrosion brushes right off – not hard to do at all. I just clean it right on the unit and the spring also. I then rinse it all off.
This is what the bottom looks like – the copper-silver anode screws onto the screw stud you see. The cathode wire sits on the silver metal contacts you see. The basket sits in the al perimeter.

Results

For us, the most striking difference was the clarity of the water improved. While algae formation decreased some, I had hoped for more. This season I am putting a new anode and cathode in the existing unit and adding a second unit. Our pool only gets direct sun from about 11am until about 3pm because trees block the light so I don’t think enough ionization is happening. I’ll use the test strips they supply to make sure I don’t add too much.

The following are both the unit and the refill kit if you need it – my anode and cathode lasted from July to October just FYI.

Summary

Yes, they do work. Everybody I know with one likes it. My results with the definitely clearer water are promising and I think the second one in my case, with both a big pool and limited direct sun light, will cut back the algae they way I want.

I hope this helps you out. I’ll post an update this summer once I see how using two units works.

If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.

DIY - Do It Yourself, Home Repair

Use A Pool Leveller To Keep Your In-Ground Pool Full This Year: Fill-O-Matic Brand Worked Great For Me

We have an in-ground pool that was built in the 1970s. Every year when I open it, I wonder what all will be wrong. Starting some years ago we developed a small leak – most likely in a line somewhere. Between that and evaporation, it used to be a challenge to keep the water level correct. This was a big deal because if the water dropped below the skimmer then the pump would run dry and nothing got filtered. Notice how I put that in past tense? It’s not a problem any longer.

In October 2021, I bought a Fill-O-Matic automatic pool leveller. The brand sounds like a gimmick but it really works – I bought mine based on a referral actually but ran out of time before the season ended. However, right at the start of the 2022 pool season in Michigan I installed it and it couldn’t be more simple – you basically adjust the height to where you want the water, connect a host, turn on the water and away it goes.

It’s basically a float valve that moves up and down. When water is added, it moves up and eventually closes the valve. When it goes down, it reaches a point where it opens the valve and it does it in degrees – if the float goes down a bit, the valve only lets a little bit of water in.

The red plastic is the float. When it goes down, the valve gradually opens and water comes in as you can see. When the float goes up, the valve gradually closes.
This is the back of the unit – when you loosen the black finger nuts shown, you can then slide the float up and down and thus control your water level.

What I found was that the unit ran almost constantly but the amount of water it was adding in was small. It’s a very simple well made quality mechanical device and that’s good – that also means it will be reliable.

Summary

I ran it all of 2022 without a problem, rinsed it off before storing it and absolutely plan on using it this year again. By the way, it’s made in the USA and I actually corresponded with the inventor over some question I had – I recall he answered quickly and it addressed whatever it was that I asked. When I searched on Amazon for the product, I notice there are cheap import knock-offs. Be sure to the original Fill-O-Matic.

If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at in**@ro*********.com. Please note that for links to other websites, I may be paid via an affiliate program such as Avantlink, Impact, Amazon and eBay.

DIY - Do It Yourself, General

How To Rebuild A Residential Diving Board

Have you ever been stuck between a rock and a hard place because you need to get something done but a vendor fumbles the ball … badly?  That happened to me recently.  We have a home made in the 70s and the pool is the same.  While we have replaced the liner a number of times over the years, it was the original slowly falling apart diving board.  We actually bought our home in 98 and the previous owner had put a 2x8x6 between the board and the spring to keep it alive.

Let’s fast forward to about a month ago.  We were getting ready for a family reunion to be held at our place so I got the pool ready for the summer and decided I better check the diving board.  Oh man, it was shot.  The fiberglass underneath had torn around the board it encased and there was just no way it was safe.

One thing I have learned about pools over the years is that you can usually find parts.  So, I new it was an 8′ residential diving board and the hole pattern for mounting it was 4.5″ on centers in the back and the front single hole was 36″.   I did some digging and  the hole pattern and distances from the back and sides corresponded with the SR Smith 8′ Frontier II board.

A number of vendors carried it online and the problem was that I needed it with only about a two week lead time before people started arriving for the party.  InTheSwim said they had it and it would arrive in time.  I used my wife’s card on the website and it wouldn’t go through so the website gave me an 800# to call.  I did, the lady told me it was a fraud screen, I approved a text message sent to my wife’s phone and the InTheSwim operator told me it was all set and I should get an email shortly.  She never said she resubmitted it … About an hour later, still no email so I called and I am pretty sure the same lady answered and said the order was fine …. in fact it was not.

After a week of no updates, I called and after confusion on their part, they found the order in limbo, fixed it and told me it would probably still make it in time.  Okay… I kept tabs on it and finally called and said I needed the board.  They told me it would not even ship until after the party.  I asked that they expedite it, that I would even pay for it and they said they had no way to do that.  I then told them in no uncertain terms to cancel the order.  If that reads like a rant, it should.  I hate it when a vendor fumbles the ball and literally does nothing to make it right.

I was left with two options – disappoint a bunch of relatives or figure out how to fix the board.  I decided to do the latter and I suspect this is the part of the post you really care about.

What went wrong with the board?

Many, if not most, residential diving boards have a fiberglass top, sides and bottom but the core is wood.  Through the in the fiberglass rotting wood was plainly visible.  I put the board on sawhorses, put the old supporting board underneath it and flipped the diving board over to access the bottom.   Again, the diving board was resting on the old supporting board – I new that if I didn’t support it, the odds were high that it might snap.  Once supported, I used a diamond masonry cutting wheel in my 4.5″ Ryobi cordless grinder to slice off the torn fiberglass to see what was going on.  I had a hunch that If I could salvage the top of the board, I could fix the bottom and I was right.

Important Safety Comment: Wear eye protection and a quality face mask (N95 or better) when you are cutting or sanding on fiberglass. You don’t want stuff getting in your eyes or lungs. I also wear gloves to protect my hands.
I used a masonry cut off wheel – in this case a diamond coated one – because the glass fibers can dull saw blades, etc.  Just about anything can cut open fiberglass – it just depends on whether you care about what is happening to the blade. 

Once I cut open the bottom that held the wood, I could see it needed to be replaced.  What was there were three pieces of wood and there was a cap on each end with nails that held it together.  Over the years as holes and cracks opened up, water got in and slowly rotted the wood.  I really wasn’t surprised when I went to lift the board off the spring – it weighed a ton due to the waterlogged wood.

The wood wouldn’t lift right out so I would prop it up and cut it with a small hand held Ryobi circular saw into thirds.  I used a small pry bar and lifted the sections out.  I didn’t cut all of the fiberglass out yet thinking that I might use some of it to make things stronger.  In hindsight, I’d now tell you to remove all of the hold fiberglass wrapping on the bottom -there was no need to save it.

Wood and Fiberglass

In a perfect world, I would have the exact same size of wood and better yet, treated wood, to replace the rotten wood.  I didn’t have time for wet treated wood to dry so I went to Home Depot and bought two 2x12x8 pieces of dry pine lumber.  One to go in the board and one to still support it even though it probably wasn’t needed.

I also stopped by the adhesives section of Home Depot and picked up two 1-gallon jugs of Bondo fiberglass resin and three packages of fiberglass cloth – if I had it to do over, I would have bought a couple more for complete overkill in terms of strength.  I knew I had a spare cloth at home so I had four fiberglass cloths total. I also bought a spare package of hardener just in case.

Here’s one of the jugs of resin.  Because I work with plastics, I had a large selection of mixing cups and stir sticks.  I used 32 oz cups and a half tube of hardener at a time.  I would mix them and then pour the contents into a second 32oz cup.  This is known as a double pour and reduces the odds of you pouring unmixed contents and making a mess.

Note:  The Bondo fiberglass system uses a polyester resin vs. true epoxy.  Polyester is cheaper than epoxy but not as strong. I’m pretty sure it will hold up and we’ll see over time.  I’m writing this post a week after our reunion and the board looks just fine – no cracks.

Cleaning Up The Board and Preparing It

With the wood out, I then removed all of the debris to get a better look at what was going on.  I removed almost all of the old fiberglass that was holding the old board – I now know I could have removed all of it.

Here I am scuffing up everything really good with 80 grit sand paper in my orbital IR 6″ sander.  If you want the fiberglass to bind really well, the surface must be abraded.  Just remember, if the surface is smooth and shiny, your adhesion is going to be bad.  A very abraded clean surface is ideal.
Here’s a better view of the center front hole and the big crack that went completely through the fiberglass top.  Note, after sanding, cleaning and degreasing, I closed all holes with black Gorilla tape before I started apply resin. Once again, I would remove all the old fiberglass that surrounded the board. Those vertical pieces you see would be gone.
Here’s a close up of the back two holes – they are worn open and stress cracking around them.
One more view of the big crack at the center.  I sanded the heck out of everything with 80 grit, sprayed down the inside with brake cleaner thoroughly to degrease it and then stuck big pieces of gorilla tape over each hole.  The diving board surface was ready.

Preparing The Wood

The wood was completely dry – let me stress that.  If you seal in wet wood, it will rot so make sure your wood is dry.

One thing I noticed with the rotted wood that I pulled out was that they had rounded over all of the corners/edges of the wood to not stress the fiberglass.  That made a lot of sense to me.  I put a 3/8″ carbide tipped round over bit in my trim router and rounded over the new board too and then sanded it with 80 grit sandpaper to prepare the surface for maximum adhesion.

The 2x12x8 boards were longer than the original so I trimmed them down.  I then used a round over bit on both and sanded them.  My plan was to embed one in the fiberglass but still have a support/buddy board underneath.  Note, I did not drill any holes.  My plan was to center the new pine board insert and drill the holes later.

I did test fit everything before I went to the next step.  You don’t want to mix up resin and get part way in only to find our boards are the wrong length.

Gluing The Board In Place

Okay, to close the bottom back up, I did it in steps.  For the first one, I mixed up 32oz of resin, liberally brushed it in the bottom of the board really thick.  I then clamped the ends and put weights in the middle to keep everything pushed together.  You need to have this planned out because once the resin sets, it’s game over.  I had the clamps and everything ready to go.

This falls under the “make do with what you have” category.  The blue clamps are really strong and are on both ends.  In the middle we have two brake calipers from a 96 Landcruiser and two full 5-gallon cans of gas.  The more pressure pushing the parts together and the adhesive into as many spaces as possible is what you want.

The next step was to put down the first layer of fiberglass cloth. I laid the cloth on top of the board and trimmed it to fit inside and just up the sides. I then mixed up a 32 oz container [don’t forget to do a double pour and use the right amount of hardener] and rapidly brushed it on very thick to the front area I was working on, applied the cloth and then another coat of Bondo on top. If you’ve not done fiberglass before, start with one section and learn. You want to get the cloth in place and wetted down with the liquid before it all sets. Also, have a bunch of nitrile gloves near by or you will get this stuff all over your hands no matter how hard you try. I wear gloves and have at it. I use my hands to rub the liquid into the cloth.

I did the front, the back and then the middle. If you need to stop, just sand the surface, blow it off and continue.
This is about the first half of the board. I let it cure and then sanded it before I applied more.

So I did the front, the back, then the middle. I used the full length of the cloths and overlapped at the middle. At this point, it was rock hard and I really wished I had just cut out all of the old fiberglass walls that surrounded the old wood. I thought it might make it stronger but then realized this wasn’t the case. I sanded again and cut my fourth and last cloth down the middle. I applied one length on the left and one on the right to strengthen those areas that still had the remnant walls that I should have removed.

Here it is with all of the layers applied. My next move was to sand and then paint it.

Drilled The Holes

Before painting, I flipped the board over, removed the Gorilla tape. The brownish color of the Bondo clearly showed me the old hole positions and drilled two 1/2″ holes in the rear and one in the front using the clearly visible filled in holes. I carefully pushed the support board under, clamped it in place and drilled it as well.

Painting The Board

To paint the board whatever color you want, use boat paint – what they call the top coat or deck paint. Years and years ago, I painted our board because it looked really tough and found out you had to add non slip grit to the paint or people would slide off. Yeah, there’s a story there about a teenager falling off so make sure you get the non-slip additive for whatever paint you buy.

I used Rust-Oleum’s Topside White for the board and a Ocean Blue paint made by Pettit for the trim. The only reason I went with the Pettit paint was that the local boat store carried it and Lowes didn’t have the blue colored Topside paint.

So, when you are applying this, do it in a well ventilated area, make sure it isn’t going to rain if you are outside (I was in my driveway) and follow the guidance carefully. One thin coat a day. If you try and do a thick coat or too many coats, the paint will not cure to a hard finish and stay in an odd tacky/smudgy state. I had this happen to me years ago because I’m not patient but I sure hard to learn patience with some of the specialty paints.

I did two coats of regular white Topside paint on the bottom to protect the fiberglass from UV rays (they really mess up plastics, epoxies and what not unless they are designed for them) and I applied two coats of the white with the grit mixed in on the top.

That’s two coats of white TopSide Paint on the bottom. I did NOT use the non-slip there.
I painted the top with the non-slip additive and didn’t worry about the old blue colored side paint.
It was hot out and even so, I let the top cure for a day before I applied blue painter’s tape to protect the top while I painted the side trim blue.

Painting The Pedestal and Support Board

While waiting for coats of paint to cure on the board, we removed the pedestal and spring unit, wire brushed it, sprayed it down with brake cleaner and sprayed on three coats of white Rustoleum spray paint.

We cleaned it and applied three coats of gloss white Rustoleum spray paint.
We painted the support board too. All I had was white spray Rustoleum at that point so that’s what I used.

Wrapping Up

We reinstalled the pedestal and spring unit first. I bought new stainless nuts and washers so it looked better.

We installed the pedestal and spring assembly first before the diving board. Have a solid surface to put the support board and diving board really helped. They are too heavy to move all at once … at least for me. My son helped – those are his feet 🙂
The board is held in place by stainless hardware” 6″ carriage bolts, 2″ fender washers, rubber gasket washers under the fenders on the top. On the bottom are regular washers , lock washers and nuts. Your hardware will depend on your board’s configuration and how thick it is. We salvaged the carriage bolts and I wire brushed the tops so they looked better but I bought everything else at Ace Hardware.
Another view.

In Closing

InTheSwim really damaged their reputation with me. On the other hand, this was done in a matter of days, cost us about $300 vs $800 (for the wood boards, hardware & paint) and all the kids at the reunion had a blast. So, problem solved — it worked out to our advantage actually. I’m curious to see how it holds up over time and I have high hopes given how it turned out and performed at the reunion.

One last parting shot.

If you have a diving board, I’d bet you could do the same and save time and money as well. I hope this gives you some food for thought.

7/23/2024 Update: where a number of kids used the diving board and it held up just fine.

6/15/24 Update: Just finishing opening the pool for the summer. The board is holding up just fine.

5/23/23 Update: Board is holding up great and we’re getting ready for another summer. I just inspected it yesterday – no cracks or any signs of issues.

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