Replacing the Batteries on a Pride Mobility GoGo Elite Traveller Scooter

Back in 2022, we bought a used Pride Mobility GoGo Elite Traveller scooter for my mother-in-law. I wrote a blog post about replacing the battery charger and the original batteries were still good though I knew that if the scooter was made in 2019, they probably only had a year or two left. Guess what? They quit charging in the Fall of 2023, pretty right on schedule. Living in Michigan, my mother-in-law wouldn’t be using it in the Winter as she doesn’t go out much so we decided to wait until the Spring of 2024 to deal with it. Well, that gives me two things to tell you about in this post.

First – Dead batteries freeze and I made an avoidable mess

Ok, the decision to put the battery replacement off made sense monetarily. Why spend the money just to have it sit. Well, we store her scooter in her attached but unheated garage, we had plenty of days well below freezing – some even in the single digits – and her batteries froze and busted their cases.

In the back of my head I knew dead batteries pretty much froze just like water at 32 degrees Farenheit but it never crossed my mind as part of the decisionmaking. If we had taken the battery compartment indoors, it would not have been an issue.

For giggles, I looked it up. Fully charged batteries with fresh electrolyte will not feeze until around -40F and websites give a ton of different answers on that with two saying that number is -76F. I saw mention that If the charge is around 40% the freezing level rises to around -16F but another website said -20F at 80% so go figure. Where they all agree is that if the battery is dead, meaning 0% charged, then it is the same as water at 32F. Why? The electrolyte is 25% sulferic acid and 75% water and the charge is what lowers the freezing point.

How did I find out? Well, we needed mama’s scooter for an upcoming trip so I lifted the housing off the scooter and brought it home. By the way, if you have never removed your battery pack below the seat on the floorboard – lift straight up firmly. There is a very strong velcro-like material on the bottom that does its job and doesn’t want to let go but will if you lift straight up. Technically, what they are using is Dual Lock or a clone of it that is stronger than traditional Velcro hook-and-loop fasteners.

I brought the compartment home, flipped it over on my bench to remove the 8 screws and what looked like water dripped on bench. Also, electrolyte has a unique smell so I knew I was in for a mess and moved it all onto the concrete floor so I could take it apart.

Safety note: You are working with a solution that has a relatively small amount of sulferic acid in it (3 parts water + 1 part acid). Wear nitrile gloves, protective eye wear and have good ventilation. I’ve found some people are very sensitive and others are not. I’m lucky and it doesn’t really bother me but I’ve worked with people that would get chemical burns real easy. So, if this is your first time and you have no idea, play it safe.

The batteries were stuck in the compartment. I suspected they used something to secure the batteries because they did NOT want to come loose. I thought they had really gone wild with Dual Lock fastener strips so I pulled hard with my fingers – nothing. I tried lifting with a little pry bar and didn’t get anywhere. Finally, I F-bombed it, got some Vise Grip pliers, got a real good hold of a terminal and lifted with all the strength I could muster — then I heard the tearing sound of velcro, saw the battery starting to rise up and kept pulling until the battery lifted out. Did not expect that!

Yes, there was a regular hook-and-loop type velcro on the end of each battery and the bottom of the compartment. What had happened was the adhesive they put on the strips on the bottom of the case and slowly oozed around and glued the batteries down as well. Sheesh. I was just glad the plastic of the compartment did not snap.

This is what the inside of the battery compartment looks like. The shiny black stuff around the velcro is the adhesive that oozed out and “glued” the batteries in place.

Both sealed batteries had their cases deform and crack open when their electrolyte froze.

With the batteries removed, I poured some water with baking soda in it to neutralize the acid in the velcro, the ends of the wires that were floppng around and the compartment. I did not dunk everything because there is a circuit breaker that I did not want to get water in.

I’m amazed at how this photo I snapped in a rush turned out. The bubbles are the chemical reaction bretween acid residue and the baking soda and water solution. Stir the baking soda and water around to make sure there is plenty of it to neutralize the acid. When all of the acid has been neutralized, the bubbles will stop and you can rinse it off.

I then carefully rinsed out the water, dried it with a towel and put it front a fan overnight to completely dry out. I did this to the top and bottom of the compartment and the screws that hold the compartment together.

When everything was dry, I applied Silicode spray and wiped it off.

It looked great once we cleaned it up. Note, getting rid of acid residue is something you always want to do. Otherwise, vapors can cause parts to oxidize.

Moral of the story – take the battery compartment in for the winter and avoid the risk of it freezing. I blew an hour cleaning up an avoidable mess.

Second – Actually replacing the batteries is pretty easy!

Okay, actually replacing the batteries is straight forward – although you may have to fight the velcro’s adhesive like I did. I could not find Interceptor brank 6-DZM-12HG batteries and different firms claimed compatibility but had different sizes so I decided to confirm the details by looking at the now-very dead originals.

The scooter uses two identical batteries. This one froze and that’s why the case and label look so bad.

Volts: 12
Capacity: 14 AH
Size: 3.9 x 3.9 x 5.9 using my calipers. Including the F-type tabs, the total height was about 4 inches

By the way, the dimensions are really important because Pride Mobility sold both standard and extended range battery systems. The latter has batteries far bigger than what will fit in the standard model’s case.

With the above, I was ready to dig on Amazon for batteries. Lots of sellers claimed their batteries were compatibile with the GoGo Elite Traveller but some only had 12AH of capacity which means those batteries would not last as long / go as far.

I also pay attention to reviews and want more than 30 reviews – the newer the better – to get an idea. Actually read the reviews. Some sellers will change the product for sale so you see reviews for one product but they are selling another.

One listing really jumped out at me – Mighty Max 12V 15AH batteries with 330 reviews and a 4.6 star rating so I took a closer look. The reported 15AH capacity puts them slightly ahead of the original 14AH batteries. The reported size was 5.94×3.86×3.86 – which would work with mine – the 5th photo in the listing shows specifications including the dimensions. That’s what I went with – Mighty Max model ML15-12. They arrived a few days later direct from the seller and seemed to be everything they said they would be.

I wrote the date on the batteries with a paint pen and applied industrial velcro to the end of each battery and let them sit overnight for the adhesive to bond. I really didn’t want to deal with the batteries sticking again so I sprayed the bottom of the battery and the bottom of the compartments with mold release compound (which I have handy due to my casting business). You could get the same effect by buffing the bottom of the battery with light shoe/boot wax.

I put two strips of industrial velcro on each battery and then set them on the table with the weight of each battery pushing the velcro’s adhesive into place. In general, self-adhesive velcro needs to sit at least overnight to get a good bond otherwise it will pull right off. Also, clean the bottom of the battery with alcohol to make sure it is clean and doesn’t have any release agent left on it from when they were made.

I didn’t bother bringing mama’s 24 volt charger home and instead just topped off each 12 volt battery before I installed them. It took my Noco 12 volt 5 amp charger maybe 3-5 minutes to top off each.

Wiring is easy red goes to postive and black goes to the negative. Then you put on the cover and reinstall the screws.

Wires are re-attached – note the color coding. Red to red and black to black. If I ever need to know, I can see the day I installed them also thanks to the orange paint pen.

I use a Dewalt cordless screwdriver a great deal due to my having Carpal Tunnel problems. The regular length Philips bit and extended length are Dewalt also. I’ve used a ton of cheap import bits and find that they wear out too fast with the Philips bit edges rounding over and not getting a good bite. You can definitely use your favoite Philips screw driver as well of course.

The batteries worked great. I weigh probably about 240 pounds with my jacket and I drove mama’s scooter about a half mile with no drop in the charge indicator and that was good enough for me. I am sure I weigh twice what she does,

The scooter was almost ready for our trip other than fixing a loose ignition switch which I will cover in another post.

In my first post about the scooter, I mentioned we replaced the blown OEM 24 volt ENCAREFOR charger. It’s held up great. This photo is of me using it to top off the batteries after driving around the block.

Summary

I still think the Pride Mobility GoGo Elite Traveller scooter is very well made. Mama enjoys getting her freedom back and will sometimes joke and head off ahead of us during a walk.

Two big takeaways I want you to have from this blog – Don’t forget batteries can freeze . Second – you can definitely change the batteries yourself. You do not need to buy a whole new cabinet and battery assembly unless you really want to.

I hope this helps.

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