Tag Archives: Brake

Built and Installed a SWAG Off Road 20 TON Press Brake Heavy Duty DIY Builder Kit

September 29, 2017 RoninsGrips 2 Comments

I occasionally run into situations where I need to bend thick sheet metal or even bar stock to make brackets. I needed to make a new battery box for my plow and decided it was time to get a press brake. I did some digging around decided to get one from SWAG Off Road – their “20 TON Press Brake Heavy Duty” model that you can buy built or as a kit. They made the tablesaw system that holds my Milwaukee Portaband and that is a really sweet set up. At any rate, the maximum width it can bend is 19.25″ with a 110 degree radius bend.

Now, what really caught my eye were the dimensions of mild steel stock this press brake could bend:

19″ wide if 3/16″ or thinner
15″ in 1/4″
13″ in 5/16″
11″ in 3/8″
6″ in 1/2″
3″ in 5/8″

Most of the stock I bend is 3/8″ or less so this was right in line with what I wanted.

The brake is designed to work with two different 20 ton Harbor Freight press models – the 32879 and 606043. My press is a 30 ton IIT H-frame so I had to make sure the total width of the brake was going to work – 22.125″ – and it did with room to spare. Note that while my press frame is 30 ton, I run a 20 ton bottle jack on it so I matched the press brake to my the actual press capacity I I run.

So, armed with that, I bought the kit for $224.95 shipped off Amazon and it showed up about a week later coming in several heavy USPS Priority mail packages.

The kit was very well packed and the instructions were very straight forward. I actually had a fun time assembling it. All you need is a welder, grinder, and a square (in my case, I used a 1-2-3 block for most of the squaring).

Their instructions were very straight forward. I am going to follow their steps in my write up and also add commentary.

I laid everything out and made sure I had all of the the parts before I started and I did.

Step 1 Weld in the Guide Rods and Ears

I hammered the rods part way into the bottom plate and made sure they were square. The fit is tight on purpose so you need a good sized hammer and a solid surface. You don’t hammer them in all the way as you are going to weld from the bottom. Be sure to tack weld the rods first and double check they are square one more time before you do the final weld. I used a 1-2-3 block to true my bars up. You do want to make sure they are fairly square as the brake’s blade assembly needs to be able to rid up and down them.

Next, they talk about tacking the “ears” back on that you can use to secure the brake in your press. These are the little tabs that go into the notches on the front of the lower assembly. Now save yourself some time and make sure the dimensions will work for you. I went through the whole building process and found out the tabs stopped my brake from going back far enough in the press to align with the ram and I had to cut them off. Knowing SWAG, I bet the brake lines up like a charm on the two Harbor Freight press models they mention so this is because I am using a very different press (It is something like 20+ years old now too :-). If the ears do work for you, you may need to file some excess metal off. One of my ears had just a bit of waste metal left after cutting that filed right off in just a few seconds. You can see the fit is great. As with the other stuff, fit it in place, tack weld and then do the final weld when ready. By the way, tack weld first to avoid the metal warping from the heat and moving out of the position you need – this is true for the whole kit.

In case you are wondering, I am using a Miller 211 MIG with gas. It works great for me. It has a far better weld and duty cycle than the Harbor Freight model I started with years go.

To protect my eyes, I use a very well regarded Antra AH6-260-0000 Solar Power Auto Darkening Welding Helmet that works great for me.

Step 2 – Weld the Vertical Guide Tubes

Next carefully position the guide tubes on the brake’s blade. I used a Harbor Freight steel welding table and a number of magnetic clamps to get everything in position and secure before I then tack welded, tested the fit and then did the final welds. Note, the blade edge of the die is facing up and the guides are aligned to what will be the top of the die. I am a bit obsessive with welding. I had the heat cranked up on the welder and did two heavy passes. My welding will never get me any awards – even I admit I am a grinder 🙂 I forgot to get a picture of the welds at this step but you’ll see them later.

Step 3 – Welding the Bottom Die

The first step is to weld the two carriage bolts into place that will hold the guide later. You *must* do them now as you will not have access to them once the angle iron is welded in place. I simply turned the heat down on the Miller, put the wing nuts on the bolts to hold them in place and did a few quick welds.

Now the next part is to weld the angle iron in place. In their instructions, SWAG said I might need to grind the bottom of the angle iron to get it to sit evenly in the channel. That did not seem to be a problem with my parts. To align the angle iron in the channel, I sprayed non-stick on the upper die and then installed it on the lower die and checked alignment. This seemed to work really well – the weight and position of the blade lined the angle iron up perfectly (a month later an I am still happy with it). I then tack welded the angle iron base in place on the lower die and then welded it in place doing a section at a time on opposing sides. I welded a closing X – starting with the corners and then moving inward a few inches at a time to avoid warping.

Step 4 – Weld the Shaft Collar

For me, the collar helps be center on the ram of my press but I do not leave it connected. I definitely wanted it though so I welded it on. I measured and found the center, positioned the collar, tack welded it and then did the final weld.

Step 5. Paint It

My shop is basically an unheated garage so I have to fight condensation. Unpainted / unoiled surfaces tend to rust so cleaned all the parts when brake cleaner and applied three coats of Black Satin Krylon that combines a primer and the paint in one finish. Definitely let it cure for a day before you reassemble — this is an important lesson I learned years ago – dry to the touch and cured ready to use are two different things.

At this point I had to get the press ready and that meant installing real press plates that could safely (emphasis on safely) handle 20 tons of pressure. Candidly. the cheap cast iron plates that come with most presses are not up to the task so we’ll talk about this in the next blog post.

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How to remove the Zastava M92 PAP Pistol’s Factory Thread Cover

May 23, 2017 RoninsGrips

A few folks have asked how to remove the factory installed thread protector from their M92 PAP pistols. Zastava does actually thread the pistols and it’s a 26mm diameter x 1.5mm pitch left hand thread (M27x1.5LH is the short cut way to write it) under that cover. These things were installed for importation, ruin the look of the pistol and, fortunately, are very easy to remove if you take your time.

Now I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel. You could just as easily use a hand file. For me, I used the thread cover to protect the threads and did not worry if it got scratched. Cut a little and try to turn the thread cover. It will turn clockwise to be removed once the weld is broken. Note, if you decide to use a Dremel and are new to them, practice with your cut off wheel on some scrap metal before doing your pistol. They can hop around unless you know how to hold and maneuver them.

I prefer cordless Dremels with removable batteries so I can swap them at any time but any rotary tool will work. You’ll need at least an abrasive cutting disc to cut through the small spot weld.

I couldn’t take the photo and cut but you go slow with the cutting disc and only remove enough weld for the thread protector to freely turn.

Not a very clear photo but you can see the remaining weld on the thread protector.

Here’s the remaining weld on the front block. Note, don’t toss your thread protector as you can use it to safeguard your threads as you grind down the remaining weld.

Next, I put the thread protector back on and used a stone wheel in the Dremel to clean up the remains of the weld on the gas block. Again, if you are new, practice first. The stone wheel may look simple but they can make a mess real fast if you lose control. I’ve been using Dremels since 1985 – trust me when I say you should practice first. Also, I like Dremels and have used them for years. They have tons of corded and cordless models plus there are other rotary tools on the market if you expect to have very limited use and want to save money.

I used a small stone and light pressure to remove the rest of the weld. Putting the thread protector back on will keep you from damaging the threads. Grinding wheels like to hop around if you aren’t very careful.

While the steel is shiny and clean, use your favorite cold blue to stain the steel. I like Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue liquid.

Burnish it with steel wool, repeat and apply oil.

Done. By the way, you can get the M92 muzzle break detent assembly from CNC Warrior – they actually make them.

I hope this helps you out!

Gunsmithing

Removing the M92 PAP Muzzle Cap and Installing the Detent Pin

August 29, 2014 RoninsGrips 1 Comment

The M92 PAP pistol is brought in neutered with a muzzle cap and no detent spring. With some careful Dremel work, some cold blue solution and a bit of patience, it is really easy to restore the pistol back to it’s original threaded muzzle state

SAFETY STEP – MAKE SURE THE WEAPON IS UNLOADED. NEVER ASSUME THAT IT IS – VERIFY IT IS UNLOADED BEFORE YOU BEGIN WORK.

1. Look at the muzzle of the PAP
M92 and you will see a big spot weld that is holding the muzzle cover on. Thankfully it is both small and superficial so it can be cut through.

2. Now the first step is to secure the pistol so it can’t move around. I used a wood jawed woodworking vice but you can use whatever you have handy. If you use a regular vise, be sure to put something over the jaws to protect your M92 from getting all scratched up.

3. I use my Dremel tool all the time. These days I am using one of their cordless jobs with two Lithium batteries and I like the EZ Lock bits that make replacing cutting wheels and other tasks a breeze. Be sure to practice with your Dremel before doing this. Please don’t go buy a Dremel and try and do this fresh out of the box. The secret is to make light cuts and not rush. Let the weight of the tool do the work and carefully guide it and keep it in position.

4. Now, I came in from the front and at a slight angle to protect the front sight & gas block combo. The cap will twist off clock-wise as it is reverse threaded. Cut a bit and test, cut a bit and test over and over. If you have a strap wrench or a pipe wrench, that can help with the removal. Again, remember that this is reverse threaded just like other AKs. It will loosen by turning clockwise.

5. Hidden under that large ugly cap is the big 26 x 1.5mm LH (reverse threaded) muzzle just waiting to have your favorite brake or fake can installed but it would be real cool to get the detent pin working again – wouldn’t it?

5. Use a small sanding drum and smooth the block where the weld was and then use the cold bluing solution you like to color the steel while it is fresh and oil free. I like Brownell’s Oxpho Blue and apply it with a Q-Tip per their instructions.

6. CNC Warrior sells a very small kit with the detent pin, spring and cross pin. The PAP has all the holes there already. You literally slide in the pin and spring, turn it the right way and then drive in the cross pin, which is a small roll pin.

7. I really like the Bulgarian 4 piece Krink brakes and CNC Warrior has great version they have made for the M92. I pretty much knew I had to go with this brake! It does a great job reducing muzzle flash and is real high quality. Now that the detent pin was installed, I just threaded it on until it was where I wanted it and the detent pin engaged fully.