Back in 2015, Rob Ski went to Definitive Arms to build an AK. In this video, they really get into the details of building an AK and anyone regardless of experience level is bound to learn something. You can watch in this 36:13 video as Rob builds his AK under the expert tutelage of the guys at Definitive Arms.
There are some great tips in here for riveting, getting the barrel blocks on square, etc. Definitely worth your time. After watching all these build videos, I really wish I had the time to build another.
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This is his last video in the six part series. He recaps what he did and shares with you some of his tips for sandblasting such as putting foam earplugs in the chamber.
Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:
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This is the 5th video in his six part series. If you are building from a flat, then you need to pay careful attention to this. He shows how to file the ejector tip down plus also shows how to do the spot heat treating in this video with a MAPP torch. I spot heat threat the fire control group (FCG) pin holes but I heat treat the entire lower rails outside of the receiver before I spot weld them in. His method works just fine so pay attention. If you are building from a finished receiver then the odds are it has already been heat treated – if you have any doubt, ask the vendor that made it.
By the way, if you need a MAPP torch, go to Home Depot or Lowes (I prefer HD) and buy a Bernzomatic MAPP torch. Personally, I use a MECO Midget Oxy Acetylene (OA) torch that works great for sheet metal. Do some comparison shopping though. It may be real expensive online if they ship the gas too.
Note, the Bernzomatic MAPP torch is definitely more portable so there are times I use it but if I need a lot of heat fast, I get out one of my OA rigs.
Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:
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In this fourth installment, you can see usmcdoc14’s welding results and he discusses how to trim the top rails. Note, a lot of flats and receivers now have pre-cut top rails so you only need to trim them if they look like what you see in the video – big, wide and straight.
Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:
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Here is the second video in usmcdoc14’s series about building an AK using a flat. He still swears left and right (which I find hilarious – when he said “sandblast the shit out of them” I started laughing) and gives you some good recommendations on checking the past receiver stub from the kit. He talks about his approaches for weld and rivet builds. He does make one comment I don’t agree with. To press out the barrel from the rear trunnion you do not need to remove the rear sight block (RSB) – you just push out the barrel pin out and then press the barrel out. Second, and this is just my opinion, with a weld build I would still drill some holes where the rivets were at and do plug welds otherwise you are going to pour on a ton of heat, may still not get good penetration and risk ruining the heat treat of the trunnion locking lugs.
Other than that, I think it is a good video and worth you watching and learning from. Your best bet is to watch multiple guys and decide what works for you.
Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:
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A few guys have contacted me wanting to learn more about how to build AKs from kits. Many of the resources I learned from when I started way back when (ballpark in 2006) are now gone. I do recommend AKFiles and their gunsmithing section so check that out. We really didn’t have Youtube then and when I did some research I found some great videos for you to watch.
A gentleman on Youtube, usmcdoc14, put together a four part series. This is part one and is 29:58 long. He swears left and right and I got a real kick out of watching and listening to him:
Here are the links to each segment – when you click on them they will open in a new tab:
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A few folks have asked how to remove the factory installed thread protector from their M92 PAP pistols. Zastava does actually thread the pistols and it’s a 26mm diameter x 1.5mm pitch left hand thread (M27x1.5LH is the short cut way to write it) under that cover. These things were installed for importation, ruin the look of the pistol and, fortunately, are very easy to remove if you take your time.
Now I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel. You could just as easily use a hand file. For me, I used the thread cover to protect the threads and did not worry if it got scratched. Cut a little and try to turn the thread cover. It will turn clockwise to be removed once the weld is broken. Note, if you decide to use a Dremel and are new to them, practice with your cut off wheel on some scrap metal before doing your pistol. They can hop around unless you know how to hold and maneuver them.
I prefer cordless Dremels with removable batteries so I can swap them at any time but any rotary tool will work. You’ll need at least an abrasive cutting disc to cut through the small spot weld.I couldn’t take the photo and cut but you go slow with the cutting disc and only remove enough weld for the thread protector to freely turn.Not a very clear photo but you can see the remaining weld on the thread protector.Here’s the remaining weld on the front block. Note, don’t toss your thread protector as you can use it to safeguard your threads as you grind down the remaining weld.
Next, I put the thread protector back on and used a stone wheel in the Dremel to clean up the remains of the weld on the gas block. Again, if you are new, practice first. The stone wheel may look simple but they can make a mess real fast if you lose control. I’ve been using Dremels since 1985 – trust me when I say you should practice first. Also, I like Dremels and have used them for years. They have tons of corded and cordless models plus there are other rotary tools on the market if you expect to have very limited use and want to save money.
I used a small stone and light pressure to remove the rest of the weld. Putting the thread protector back on will keep you from damaging the threads. Grinding wheels like to hop around if you aren’t very careful.While the steel is shiny and clean, use your favorite cold blue to stain the steel. I like Brownell’s Oxpho-Blue liquid.Burnish it with steel wool, repeat and apply oil.Done. By the way, you can get the M92 muzzle break detent assembly from CNC Warrior – they actually make them.Here it is again with better lighting,
I hope this helps you out!
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In this video, Rob Ski, of AK Operators Union, does a great job explaining how to lubricate your AK. Rob is the real deal having grown up around AKs and having also served in the US military. Be sure to Like him on Facebook. He’s always posting news and information.
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