Well, I bought SCT17 frames to move my Polymer80 builds over to so they could have serial numbers and be tracked. The SCT 17 frames are nicely designed and molded so kudos there. I bought assembled/populated frames and wished I hadn’t. I have always changed the mag lock, slide stop and slide lock controls on a Glock because they are too small for me. The SCT triggers were pretty crude too – I did not like the feel of the shoe or the pull so I did some reading and changed the components out.
I found the SCT17 frames to be nicely done. I was surprised that even though they have the Glock grip angle I found them comfortable. One of my big reasons for using the Polymer80 frames was the angle felt better for me. It may be the straight wall design of the handle but the SCT17 feels good. I wear an XL glove and my pinky is right at the bottom of the grip so I knew I would need to add a flare both to have a shelf and to aid in mag feeding.
Glockish small slide lock, very flush slide lock, the mag catch barely sticks out, and the trigger shoe is rounded with a heavy long pull … they all needed to be replaced. If you like stock Glock stuff, great. I don’t.
Now, my original plan was to simply move the internals of my Polymer80s to the SCT frames. The problem I was running into was that none of my triggers just moved over – the slide was hanging up big time. I’m not a Glock guru and I read some about bending the cruciform at the back and finally decided screw it – I’d just buy new triggers.
I did some digging and guys reported the Overwatch Drop-In Poly-DAT triggers did just that – they went right in with no tweaking. Huh? Basically they designed an affordable trigger that should fit most Glocks based on their experience. It cuts pre-travel by about 20%, had their NP3 treated their Minus connector, and their exra power return spring but with an OEM trigger housing.
Okay, it was just before Christmas and I scored three of the Overwatch Precision Drop In PolyDAT triggers for $79.99/ea. I also picked up new Vickers Tactical Slide Stops for $21.56 and decided to also get new Strike Industries pins for $9.99 fom Primary Arms. My slide stops and pins were pretty beat up and I figured I’d go with new ones.
For the extended mag catches, I did just move the Vickers units over from the Polymer80s to the SCT17s.
Pics or it didn’t happen
Well, here are the controls so to speak. The SCT came populated because I got a great deal and figured I’d see if I liked them. I did not. The top is the SCT17 frame. The slide stop, lock and mag catch are all too short for me. The rounded trigger shoe and gritty trigger were pretty bad even by Glock-clone standards. The Polymer80 frame below has an extended slide lock, stop and magazine release plus a decent trigger. I don’t recall who now – Zev maybe. I had hope to move them all over but the trigger was a no-go.
This was a Zev G34 clone. Boy it shot nice but I wanted it on a serilized frame. (Note, I used a photo editor to remove the serial numbers from the paperwork.)
Another G34-ish clone with a Tyrant CNC compensator. The trigger might be an Overwatch Precision but no idea of the model.
Taking this Polymer80 apart made me sad. It was my last and the best one I made. It was their Compact Long model with a G17 slide on a G19 body. Boy, that was a smooth shooting pistol. I moved the upper over to a full size SCT17 frame. Pretty sure it was a Zev Fulcrum trigger.
This is the Overwatch Precision PolyDAT dropin trigger for Glocks. I wasn’t sure how I would like the polymer shoe but it feels just fine. The broad flat face of it makes for a nice feel.
Here’s the other side.
There are a boatload of videos and pages about how to change Glock triggers. I want to point out one one often overlooked relationship that causes guys to brake out a hammer and punch unnecessarily. The grooved pin at the top is the hammer pin. The thing at the bottom is the slide stop. The hammer pin is not pressed into the frame very hard at all yet guys go banging on it with a pin punch to get it out. That’s not remotely needed. What is happening is the slide stop does dual duty to hold the hammer pin in place.
That spring pushes againt the locking block pin and pushes the slide stop down. This photo doesn’t show it because the pin is resting in the slide stop on my bench but when installed, the top of the slide lock pin hole is pushed down into the groove in the hammer pin thus locking it in place. Want to remove your hammer pin super easy? Lift the slide stop with one hand and press the hammer pin out with what ever pin removal tool you use in the other hand – done.
SCT makes a mag well flare that is absolutely worth it. It just snaps in place. It’s polymer and I wish it was aluminum but it is what it is.
Here they are with the extended controls and new triggers plus the SCT 17 mag wells.
Trigger Results
Average trigger pull weights for each pistol were 3# 11.7 oz, 3# 13.7oz and 4# 8.5oz. The triggers were lubricated and tested maybe 10-20 times each max. Pull testing was done using five sample pulls from each with care taken to postion the Wheeler digital gauge in the same place each time. The pistols were on a bench also to try and aid consistency.
Overall, the they feel much, much better with the Overwatch triggers – less travel and not gritty. I’d give them a 7 out of 10 and have no hesitation recommending them to someone looking for a very cost effective trigger improvement. If you have an SCT17 and want something that literally drops in – try this. I had to do zero tuning and would do it again.
Summary
I’m happy with the results. I need to get them to the range but they all function test fine.
I hope this helps you out.
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