Tag Archives: PF940C

How to Install Or Replace A Polymer80 or Glock’s Firing Pin Spring Assembly

Installing or replacing the firing pin spring in a Polymer80 or Glock pistol can seem daunting. It’s actually quite straight forward but you would never know it at first glance. I had to do some digging and want to share with you two videos that really helped me out.

Here are all the fun parts of both the firing pin and extractor plunger assemblies.
The top unit is the assembled firing pin group. The lower part is the Extractor Depressor Plunger assembly. I’m just showing the plunger because I had them together when I did the photo. You can leave the plunger alone.

Glock Striker Disassembly and Reassembly Video

Great Detailed Animation About The Firing Pin Assembly Specifically

Complete Glock Disassembly Video

In case you want to completely take your pistol apart, this is a very good video:

I hope this helps you out.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


How to Check A Polymer80 Or Glock’s Firing Pin Strike

One of the challenges when you are working on a firearm is trying to figure out what is going on in spaces you can’t directly observe. The Polymer80 frames given an awesome platform to build a custom pistol but you have the challenge of wondering just how hard the firing pin will strike the primer. I know a bunch of you load a round and test fire but that is not an option where I live now so I had to figure out an alternative.

The internals of a Glock reflect pure genius on the part of Gaston Glock. How he figured it all out is beyond me and the best I can do it is look at the parts and the functioning and draw conclusions about what is going on. Obviously a lot has to happen to release the firing pin and have it travel forward with sufficient force to strike the primer and trigger ignition. All sorts of stuff can go wrong and cause a light strike that then results in erratic firing.

So, I was sitting and wondering how I could test the strike in my shop. I started thinking about what I could put down the barrel that would get hit by the pin and both move reflecting the degree of force and also get dented so I could see depth, etc. My answer? A 1/4″ hardwood dowel.

I buy these 1/4″ x 3′ hardwood dowels by the bundle from suppliers but even at a big box store, a 3′ dowel will run you $1-3 for a 3-4′ long piece. I’m talking the plain jane wood dowels you see with the hardware and parts aisle section – not premium oak, etc.

So, I take them to my bandsaw and cut off about a 6″ section in my bandsaw and then I sand the ends real quick to get rid of stray fibers.

Here’s a new 6″ test rod next to a Polymer80 G34.
Look at how it’s nice and clean – no dents and also no stray fibers/slivers that will catch on the barrel.

How To Test

First and foremost, visually inspect the pistol and don’t assume anything. Make absolutely sure the weapon is clear – that there is no ammunition in the chamber or a loaded magazine. Life is going to suck in the next part if you pull the trigger and the pistol is loaded so make sure it isn’t!!

Step one, cut yourself either a new dowel or trim the end of an existing one so you have a clean end.

Okay, hold the pistol vertical, drop the dowel down the barrel and pull the trigger. The dowel should to shoot up about 2-3 feet in the air depending on what springs you are using. The stronger the spring, the further the dowel will go.

Try this with some known good pistols first to get a feel for how far the dowel pops up. If a 1/4″x6″ dowel doesn’t even leave the barrel then you know you have a problem.

Here’s the dowel sticking out the end.

Now, the second part of the diagnostic is to look at the divot in the end. There should be a clear indent in the wood. Look at this next photo:

That dent was made by the firing pin hitting the wood and is from my PF940CL pistol that works great plus it’s also running a full power OEM Glock firing pin spring. It makes a much more pronounced dent that my G34 which is running a reduced weight Glockmeister firing pin spring.

This method has worked very well for me as I can repeatedly test fire with the dowel to diagnose light strikes without constantly needing to shoot live ammo.

You can see this one is short. I’m not worried about a precise length. Before I test or after I am done, I trim off the end so I have a nice fresh “face” for the pin to hit so I can see it. Bear in mind that a shorter dowel will be lighter and fly further. This dowel is at the end of it’s useful length and I’ll use it for something else now.

I hope this little trick helps you out as well.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


The Best Step-By-Step Book For Building a Glock-Style Pistol With a Polymer80 Frame

This is a really valuable book I had both it (the Kindle version) and the Polymer80 step-by-step guide open for every step I did.

The book’s author steps you through everything with very good illustrations to boot.  Combine this with the guidance from Polymer80 and you are going to be very well armed to enjoy building a reliable Glock-style pistol.


Polymer80 and Glock Parts Vendors

When you want to customize your Polymer80 or Glock, or you need replacement parts, there are a number of solid vendors you can go to:

Those are all reputable vendors and aren’t going to sell you inferior counterfeit products.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


Polymer80 Glock Build Troubleshooting

If you haven’t heard about Polymer80, they make a number of 80% receivers including some remarkable Glock compatible frames. Now they aren’t just a cheap gimmick – I like the grip angle, the texture and the finger relief that all result in a far better feeling pistol than an actual Glock in my opinion. Now there are haters that say these are not Glocks – that’s fine, they aren’t. Then again, it’s not like we all buy ARs only made by Colt or Armalite either in comparison.

So I have been posting about how to do the builds [Click here for a Glock 17 using the PF940V2 frame post and here for one on Glock 19 using the PF940C frame post]. They are very straight forward, fun and can generate a reliable pistol. Like all things, there can be challenges and troubleshooting your build to understand why the slide is binding, the trigger isn’t resetting and so forth are all things that may happen. Luckily, there are also lots of videos and posts for understanding how to solve the challenges.

Be Sure to Read the Instructions First

I do recommend you read the instructions from Polymer80 before you do your build. If you didn’t read them and are now having challenges, I would recommend you go back and read the good instruction file they wrote and watch the video:

Troubleshooting Videos



Also, Pew Pew Tactical did a nice series of posts on building and troubleshooting Polymer80 builds. Click here to open a new tab and go there.

My Take On Common Issues

  • The slide doesn’t go all the way back: Check that the recoil spring is not catching on the channel you needed to mill out. Check that the slide stop spring is sitting flush and not catching on the spring. Sometimes plastic falls into that channel and keeps it from fully seating. (It would be a good idea to blow your frame out with compressed air to get all the loose plastic out).
  • Trigger not resetting – this is either an issue with how Polymer80 did some of the Rear Rail Modules (RRMs) or how the frame was drilled causing the RRM to move. If this happens, you will need to file a bit off the right side (when looking down at the receiver) of the RRM so the trigger bar doesn’t hit it. I’d also recommend checking that there aren’t burs/machining imperfections on any of the trigger’s metal parts that might cause binding.
  • Slide not cycling smoothly – The rail modules should be equal height. Again, there may have been an issue with drilling causing an alignment issue. See if you can bend/adjust the rail modules so they line up.
  • Trigger feels gritty – remove the trigger and polish all metal surfaces. Blow out the pistol and trigger areas to ensure there isn’t any plastic debris. Expect it to take a couple hundred rounds to smooth out.
  • Action feels gritting – again, polish everything. I like the small rubberized polishing bits for the Dremel as well as working with sandpaper up to 2000 grit. Always remember that your goal is to smooth and polish, not to remove a ton of material.

So, I hope this helps you out. Polymer80 Glock frames are well engineered and do work. There may be some issues you need to work through due to how you build the pistol and the parts you use but view overcoming them as part of your journey and don’t give up. The end result is definitely work it.

Polymer80 and Glock Parts Vendors

When you want to customize your Polymer80 or Glock, or you need replacement parts, there are a number of solid vendors you can go to:

Those are all reputable vendors and aren’t going to sell you inferior counterfeit products.


If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


Please note that any images shown were extracted from the videos and remain the property of their respective owner(s).



Two Videos On Preparing Polymer80 PF940C Glock 19 Frames For Use

If you haven’t heard about Polymer80, they have come out with a really straight forward way to make a pistol using Glock parts. You aren’t going to really save money but you are going to have a very cool end result that you can customize however you want.

In surfing around, I came across two videos that have some pretty good camera angles and commentary about guys drilling the holes and filing down the frames that I thought I would share:


Polymer80 is offering some really innovative products. These are not hacks by any means. I like the grip angle, the texture and the finger groove built into the trigger guard. The whole concept is well executed for guys who like building their own firearms.

Note, Polymer80 products are being sold by a ton of vendors so shop around and watch for sales.

Also, be sure to download and read their instructions. They are well illustrated and have pretty good detail.

The following book is very good and I referred to it constantly during my first build along with the above-mentioned Polymer80 guidance:


Polymer80 and Glock Parts Vendors

When you want to customize your Polymer80 or Glock, or you need replacement parts, there are a number of solid vendors you can go to:

Those are all reputable vendors and aren’t going to sell you inferior counterfeit products.

If you find this post useful, please share the link on Facebook, with your friends, etc. Your support is much appreciated and if you have any feedback, please email me at info@roninsgrips.com.


Please note that any images shown were extracted from the videos and remain the property of their respective owner(s).


Slide for Glock 19 Gen3, Polymer80 w/ Dovetail, OEM Serrations, BlackNitride+

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PARTS KIT FOR GLOCK 26 POLYMER80

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Extended Magwell for Polymer 80 Glock Frame

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SAO Supply Stainless Steel Extended Control Kit For Polymer 80

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