The AK-47 and AK-74 Kalashnikov Rifles and Their Variations provides a detailed, profusely illustrated examination on a part-by-part basis of the famed AK-47/AKM rifles, the AK-74/AK-74M series and the new Century series of rifles, the AK-101 through AK-108.
It is another in North Cape Publications, Inc., Shooter’s and Collector’s Guide series.
Every AK/AKM-type rifle manufactured in the Warsaw Pact countries plus the People’s Republic of China, Finland, Iraq, North Korea and Yugoslavia are described in detail, with a short history on the reason for, and the process of their development and use.
This new, 4th edition is expanded to include he latest developments in the AK47/AK74 platform including the Century series and the AK12. Also included is new information regarding the scope and use the Kalashnikov series of rifles plus information gleaned from the use of the AK-47 in Iraq and Afghanistan by insurgents.
Mikhail Kalashnikov is one of the foremost small arms designer’s in the world. His Kalashnikov action has been widely imitated. This book also includes detailed descriptions of rifles based on his design such as the Belgian FNC, the Israeli Galil, the Indonesian SS1 series, the Indian INAS, the Swedish Ak-5, the Swiss SG-550 series, Singapore’s SAR series and many others.
The book also includes separate chapters that describe the accessaries issued to each soldier, the entire range of Kalashnikov bayonets, telescopic sights (both military and commercial, the sniper rifle variants and their telescopic sights produced by the old Soviet Union as well as other nations. An exploded view, serial numbers and markings, an assembly/disassembly guide with photos, instructions on cleaning, maintenance and repair, and shooting the Kalashnikov rifles and a guide to legislation affecting these rifles and finally, sources for accessories and parts complete the book.
Features: This book contains the most complete and up-to-date examination of the famed Kalashnikov rifle yet t By (author): Joe Poyer
At first glance, the Uzi grip frame is intimidating! There are springs, pins and levers all over the place but it turns out to be surprisingly simple. Now, I need to tell you something – I read everything I could on the grip frame [Notably the excellent UziTalk post about assembling the frame, Beaker’s great Uzi build write up on NES and Gaboury’s Uzi book] and I kept the spare Uzi’s grip frame fully assembled sitting on the bench for reference. As you follow the steps, it becomes pretty straight forward actually.
Legal Disclaimer: I am not a firearms attorney nor do I claim any regulatory expertise and you accept all responsibilities and liabilities for compliance with all federal and local laws that pertain to you. I sorted out posts on what is required to make the Uzi legal in terms of the grip assembly and it seems to come down to two elements: 1] Mike at NDS received guidance on the McKay receiver that there needed to be a blocking bar for the bolt and the selector lever in the grip frame must be blocked from going to the full auto position [See post #7] 2] The sear needs to either modified for for semi-auto use or replaced with a dedicated semi-auto unit to fully penetrate into the semi-auto receiver. A full auto sear will not fit in the McKay receiver’s holes and I am using a McKay to be clear.
Before you get started, you need to make a quick tool. Take any small blade screw driver and use a Dremel fiber reinforced cut off wheel to make a notch in it. Literally, just cut straight in. You will need this to push down the surprisingly stout legs on the trigger spring that have to pass under some hooks and then under the disconnector.
1] Remove the two screws that hold the grip panels in place. You’ll notice the grip panels are beat up but the parkerized finish and parts are in exceptional shape. All my internals looked like new. I am real pleased with the kits Robert RTG sent me.
2] Here’s our first peek inside the grip frame. This crazy looking thing is actually very straight forward. I was really impressed by how they did the pins – the look like screws but you actually insert the pins and turn them into position to lock everything in place. It’s really a very well thought out way to do it.
I will never get any awards for illustration but here are the major parts labelled so you can see them. Note how the trigger pin bends forward, under the hooks and under each side of the disconnector. To remove and install the trigger requires the notched screw driver I showed above as the notch makes moving each incredibly stiff small spring leg on the trigger way, way easier.
3] Next, I pushed out the takedown pin. It just presses right out like an HK’s. I suspect that whomever demilled the kits just stuck it in there for safe keeping. Have baggies or a parts tray to keep track of all of this. I always recommend taking photos and/or making notes too.
4] Before you remove the sear, look at how much room you have in front and under the sear. This will aid you when you weld in the selector stop plate later. I used a small screw driver to push out the sear pin. The spring is attached to the sear and when the pin is removed, it comes out as a unit. This unit will either need to have the lobes cut down to fit in the receiver or use a new dedicated US semi-auto sear but you will use the same spring so be sure to save it.
5] Next, use your tool to push down on the trigger spring legs such that they are sticking up in the air and not under the disconnector or the wire hooks.
6] Once the trigger pin is removed you can then remove all the other parts. Remove the grip safety spring and then lift the grip safety straight out of the frame.
7] Next you need to size the selector stop plate you need. In digging around, I could not find any sheet metal between .050-.075″ thick in my collection so I simply bought a pre-made selector stop plate from US Barrel Shrouds for $2.95 and made sure the selector stopped appropriately and where to place it for welding before I removed the selector bar spring and the selector bar. You want to make sure the selector fully stops on semi-auto, the middle setting, and not further to the left. You may need to adjust the plate a bit – in my case it dropped right in and worked. Also, the selector bar has virtually no vertical travel when the grip frame is fully assembled so don’t worry about that right now.
Note, the selector knob is just pressed onto the selector bar. When you remove the bar, the knob will fall off so be prepared to catch it.
8] I then degreased and sanded the frame to remove the parkerizing in order to get a good weld. I then clamped the work and spot welded it with my MIG. You actually have a fair amount of room so the weld does not need to be perfectly flat – I did a bit more sanding than I needed to before I realized the amount of room I had to work with during test fitting. I also did two small spot welds in each corner by the lop of the frame just to be sure. My stop plate is rock solid now.
9] I did not bother removing the magazine catch and at this point, I stopped as I collected all my parts to refinish them with Molyresin. I them re-assembled following that.
10] To re-assemble the grip frame, what saved my bacon was the excellent guidance from Uzi Talk with one exception. The McKay receiver does not use a bolt safety so when the Uzi Talk directions mention it, remember that you are not going to install the bolt safety. If you do mistakenly install the bolt safety, the grip frame will not fit onto the receiver.
During assembly, I put Tetra grease on everything to help everything slide plus I oiled the rotating parts on the pins. There is an old saying “if it slides, grease it. If it rotates, oil it.”
Also, I mentioned I used a US made semi-auto sear. I bought mine from US Barrel shrouds and it worked great. The original is on the left with the spring still attached. The new one is labelled US in the photos below or does not have the spring yet. I thought you might want to get a good look at it for reference. Note how the “pads” at the rear of the semi-auto sear are shorter but there is still a shelf at the bottom.
Below is a photo of the FCG group with the sear spring moved over plus it’s interesting to see the two fire control pins – the shorter one with the flat end is the trigger pin and the longer one is for the sear.
I hope this helps! Next up is the top cover assembly.
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Although universally recognized, the history of this iconic weapon has gone largely undocumented — until now. Originally designed for the Israeli military by Uziel Gal, the UZI submachine gun has a colorful history that has reached around the globe. Using approximately 1,000 photos, this book examines the history and technical details of all the UZI variations, both military and civilian, from its initial design to the current models. Also included are original factory documents, model-by-model features, part variations, accessories and manuals.
In this step we will install the selector spring and detent along with the pistol grip. As you can imagine, I am a grip snob. I do not like the Mil-Spec grip much at all but do like the MagPul MOE and MIAD grip. For me, the lower-cost MOE grip is just fine – it feels good in my hand and is durable. It’s pretty much all I use on ARs other than target rifles where I prefer the Ergo grip with a palm shelf.
So, first off, I need to point out that in this step we install the spring and detent pin for the selector lever. Both the spring and pin are unique. In the next photo, the selector spring and detent are on the left. On the right is a detent pin and spring for the pivot and takedown pins. Be sure to use the heavier detent and spring on the left for the selector.
Step one: Turn the receiver upside down, put a dab of Tetra Gun grease (or whatever brand grease you like) in the receiver’s detent hole and then insert the detent pin point first. The grease helps hold the pin in as you move things around plus lubricates it:
Step two: I like to put a dab of grease in the spring hole in the pistol grip to keep the spring from falling out. This helps reduce my lost springs. It’s way too easy for your mind to wander and have the spring fall out.
To install the grip, I lay the receiver on its side and push the grip into place. This grip was so tight that I had to tap it into place with a rubber mallet. Go slow and make sure that the detent spring lines up properly with the pin. If you go nuts pushing/hitting it together you can kink the spring and ruin it.
The Magpul grips come with a screw that can be installed via a slotted screwdriver or a hex key, which I prefer. Also note the yellow stuff on the screw – this is a pre-applied threadlocker so you do not need to add more. If you are installing a screw that does not have a lock washer or any threadlocker on it, you may want to apply a bit of medium strength Loc-Tite. Now, to get that screw down there, I angle everything back and slide the screw down the back of the grip just like a ramp and then I use my Allen wrench to tighten things down. Because I can’t get a good grip on the wrench due to my carpal tunnel, I use an adjustable wrench to give me just a bit more torque. Many of you may not need to do that. You are looking for firm – not Big Mongo torqued down tight. There are torque specs for everything but I do farmer ballpark tight on non-critical stuff.
Once the screw is installed, the bottom end cap is snapped on place and you are done. Note, this cover can also be replaced with toolkits that slide up in the grip if you so desire. I’ve not done it yet but am considering it.
The next step will be to install the buffer tube.
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Back in 2014 I bought one of the 5.56 Vepr IV RPKs. Boy was it nice but it had a folding stock that was spot welded. I installed a Tapco G2 FCG, the appropriate muzzle device and one of my Molot Gen 2 grips and then US mags. I’d planned to replace the gas piston but wound up selling the rifle to fund other projects. I did, however, snap some photos.
The rifles were amazingly allowed into the US and were gorgeous but I could not abide by the tack welded open stock or funky US grip. First, I removed the butt stock to get it out of the way and protect it. I then used my cordless Dremel with a cut off wheel to slice the tack weld enough to pull it open and then sanded the edges smooth.
I then applied Brownells’ Oxpho Blue to the fresh bare steel to blacken it. The end result – you’d never know the tack was there.
To the left is the grip that IO put on the rifle when they imported it. To the right is my Molot Gen 2 grip and it is in subsequent photos also.
Like so many of my firearms, it sat in the safe for a year or two and I never hard time to fire it. Eventually, I decided to sell it to fund other projects.
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You have to love the traditional lines of a Zastava M70B1. Stephen did something neat with his – notice the M76 buttstock and great looking wood. I think it’s fantastic. We’re honored he picked one of our M70 grips to go on his rifle!
This is an AK that has been outfit with Galil furniture. The grip is from us and is based on an actual IMI Galil grip but we filled in the selector notch on the left side plus we trimmed the extended tab on the nose.