Category Archives: AKBuilds

How to build AK/Kalashnikov-type semi-automatic rifles and pistols.

WBP Rogów Videos How They Demil a Circle 11 Underfolder AK — Pretty cool but sad too

Wytwornia Broni Jacek Popinski (WBP) is a privately owned firearm manufacturer located in Rogów, Poland.  Some folks assume it is the old government Radom armory with a different name but it is not.

In the US, we know about WBP because of the efforts of Arms of America (AoA) to import high quality Polish AK kits and, recently, firearms.  I ordered my first kit from AoA a tad over a year ago and ordered a number of other things from them including a demilled Radom kit that I want to build this Winter.

In usual form, I was surfing around and found this video that WBP had posted showing them demilling a Circle 11 underfolder.  Part of me is always sad to see one of these fine guns being cut up just to enable importation into the US but another part of me is also happy because at least this way we get to enjoy them.

This is a brief video and I was pretty intrigued towards the end watching how they remove the blocks from the barrel and drilled out the rivets.  Having demilled a lot of kits in the past, I’ve always found the rivets to be tedious.

Here’s the brief video that’s just under 10 minutes and I hope you enjoy it:


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Please note that all images were extracted from the video and remain the property of their respective owner(s).


Polish AK Bayonet with Scabbard and Frog

$75.00
End Date: Thursday May-9-2019 11:03:04 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $75.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

.Poland Polish Army Badge 1st Para Commando Regiment,n

$14.85
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 9:04:03 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $14.85
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Poland Polish NAVY Aviation Cap badge

$12.00
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 13:42:43 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $12.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Poland Polish Army Parachute Brigade Collar Tab ww2

$8.80
End Date: Wednesday May-1-2019 9:05:19 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $8.80
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Reproduction WW2 Polish Army Czapka Wool Enlisted Cap Hat Size 57

$15.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 20:52:50 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Polish Army in Italy WWII, 2nd Corps Patch Sign

$24.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Apr-25-2019 18:00:06 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Tips on Finding Decent Gunsmithing Tools on eBay

One of the challenges when starting out working on guns is building your tool collection.  It’s hard to find cost effective tools so you wind up making do with stuff, creating tools ad hoc, etc.  Interestingly enough, this is where eBay just might help.  While I’m not happy with their anti-gun position, there are a lot of tools that pop up there – ranging from low-end Chinese stuff all the way to some beautiful vintage tools.

So, I want to show some example searches with 20 live feeds from each section:

Gunsmith and Gunsmithing Tools

The trick is in the searching.  For example, here are the top 20 matches for gunsmith tools or gunsmithing tools and you will probably see a mix:

Brass 7 pc Precision Roll Drift Pin Gunsmithing Tool Punch set Made in USA

$19.95
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 21:06:09 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $19.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Wheeler Fine Gunsmith Tools SAE/Metric/Hex/Torx P-Handle Driver Set: 1081957

$62.95
End Date: Sunday May-5-2019 12:49:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $62.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - Select from 5 (Armorers Wrench,Vise Blocks,Stock Wrench)

$8.00
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 17:30:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $8.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - Select from 5 (Armorers Wrench,Vise Blocks,Stock Wrench)

$19.99
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 17:30:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $19.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - Select from 5 (Armorers Wrench,Vise Blocks,Stock Wrench)

$8.00
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 17:30:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $8.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools-4 Brass Muzzle Laps-Rifle Or Pistol Crowning Kit - Lapping Crown

$24.95
End Date: Friday May-10-2019 17:22:06 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $24.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Universal Firearm Durable Bench Block Gunsmith Handgun Gunsmithing Tools Pistols

$17.99
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 13:16:10 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $17.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - Select from 5 (Armorers Wrench,Vise Blocks,Stock Wrench)

$9.20
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 17:30:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $9.20
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmithing tools-GUNSMITH’S BORESCOPE. USA MADE.

$56.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 20:26:57 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Gunsmithing Tools Firearm Screw Kit Hunting Gun Repair Fix Set Master

$59.99
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 6:53:11 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $59.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - Select from 5 (Armorers Wrench,Vise Blocks,Stock Wrench)

$9.99
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 17:30:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools - Select from 5 (Armorers Wrench,Vise Blocks,Stock Wrench)

$60.00
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 17:30:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $60.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

gunsmithing tools (used once)

$16.50 (7 Bids)
End Date: Monday Apr-22-2019 11:01:25 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

308 .308 Upper Vise Block & Barrel Removal System Gunsmith Tools

$19.95
End Date: Tuesday Apr-30-2019 6:22:06 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $19.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Hammer Multi Tool With Hammer Gunsmithing Tools Woodworking Watch New

$20.98
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 10:57:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $20.98
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Upper Vise block gunsmithing gunsmith tools use with barrel nut wrench

$14.99
End Date: Tuesday Apr-30-2019 11:06:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $14.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Tools 5 Brass Muzzle Laps-Rifle Or Pistol Crowning Kit - Lapping Crown

$33.95
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 11:41:33 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $33.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Universal Firearm Durable Bench Block Gunsmith Handgun Gunsmithing Tools Pistols

$17.49
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 16:14:11 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $17.49
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Non-Marring Hand Guard Removal Tool Free-Floating Gunsmithing Tools

$13.75
End Date: Thursday May-2-2019 13:00:25 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $13.75
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Universal Firearm Durable Bench Gun Block Gunsmith Wheeler Gunsmithing Tools NEW

$12.39
End Date: Friday May-10-2019 20:09:56 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $12.39
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Of course there are brands I will steer away from such as NCStar and others that I will look closer at such as Brownells, Lyman, Tipton, Weaver, etc.  I also read the ratings of the seller.  If a seller has a good rating and more than 30 sales, that’s a good sign.  Less than that and you are taking a gamble.

Vintage Gunsmith Tools

“Vintage” seems to be a popular term for “used”.  You tend to find a lot of unique stuff that was made by a gunsmith to fit a special need as well as high-quality tools that were made with care vs. mass produced.  Be careful though.  I’ll zoom into the photos as much as I can plus look at the seller’s description and the rating of the seller to try and decide if the tools are in good shape or beat to death.

VINTAGE HAND VISE, JEWELER GUNSMITH WATCHMAKER MACHINIST, V.C & Co., GERMANY

$25.00
End Date: Tuesday May-21-2019 6:16:35 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage 6.8 Oz PASCHALL No.1304 Ball Peen Hammer / Jeweler - Gunsmith /$5 Ships

$25.00
End Date: Monday May-20-2019 16:52:04 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

VINTAGE WILL BURT VERSA VISE VICE ADJUSTABLE BENCH VISE GUNSMITHING TALL JAW

$70.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 1:42:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $142.00
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

Master Gunsmith's Tools, Equipment, and Gerstner Chests

$1,599.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 12:43:14 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Vintage Craftsman Vise Tool Vice Lathe Pipe Bolt Holder Gunsmith Reload Wood

$189.00
End Date: Tuesday May-21-2019 4:40:51 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $189.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Brass Gunsmith Jeweler Hammer

$3.80 (2 Bids)
End Date: Monday Apr-22-2019 17:35:41 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

~2~Vintage~Gunsmith Checkering Tools~Mittermeier Grobet~ No:16 & No:20

$89.00
End Date: Friday Apr-26-2019 7:28:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $89.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

2 DEM-BART GUNSMITH TOOLS, VINTAGE; (2-16 & F-1) IN ORIGINAL BOXES

$89.00
End Date: Tuesday Apr-23-2019 8:41:50 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $89.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Versa-Vise Will-Burt Co. Gunsmithing Vise 4-1043-5

$80.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Apr-25-2019 13:22:47 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE VTG TINY BALL PEEN HAMMER with WOOD HANDLE GUNSMITH JEWELRY REPAIR SMALL

$15.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 11:53:10 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

Vtg Old Craftsman Vise Large Pipe Anvil Steampunk Machinist Knife Tool Gunsmith

$57.95
End Date: Wednesday Apr-24-2019 14:06:50 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $57.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage 7 Oz. Gunsmith / Jewelers Hammer G1111

$14.95
End Date: Thursday Apr-25-2019 14:05:06 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $14.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Solid BRASS No Spark Non-Magnetic BALL PEEN HAMMER Blacksmith GUNSMITH VINTAGE

$17.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Monday Apr-22-2019 9:11:32 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $23.99
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

Vintage Iron 6 Pound 8 Ounce Jeweler's, Blacksmith, Or Gunsmith Small Anvil

$79.95
End Date: Saturday May-4-2019 11:16:27 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $79.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

vintage small 2" jewelers bench vise machinist gunsmith solid base anvil surface

$89.99
End Date: Wednesday May-15-2019 20:27:08 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $89.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage 8 oz Solid Brass Non Sparking Hammer For Gunsmiths

$8.00
End Date: Friday May-10-2019 16:50:20 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $8.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage MILLERS FALLS Co.(Millers Falls, Mass.) Gunsmith Jeweler Hand Held Vise

$75.00
End Date: Friday May-3-2019 16:12:17 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $75.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Small Hand Held Vise Jeweler Gunsmith 6" Long

$24.95
End Date: Tuesday Apr-23-2019 12:56:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $24.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Antique Solid Brass Jeweler Gunsmith Mallet

$12.50
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 15:52:23 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $12.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Vintage 7" Machinist Hand Vise Clamp Jewelers Gunsmith watchmaker saw

$39.99
End Date: Wednesday Apr-24-2019 12:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $39.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

VTG 2-1/2" VISE ~ HOBBY JEWELERS GUNSMITH WATCHMAKER ~ CLAMP ON MINI SPRING VISE

$21.50
End Date: Wednesday Apr-24-2019 19:39:15 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $21.50
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Unmarked Vise Anvil Gunsmith Jeweler Machinist 2" jaws

$32.99
End Date: Monday May-20-2019 14:42:16 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $32.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

50 vintage blacksmith gunsmith jeweler farrier machinist file lot repurpose F2

$89.99
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 12:11:00 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $89.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Cone Mandrel Jeweler Blacksmith Gunsmith Swage Block Bangle Bracelet

$44.80
End Date: Tuesday Apr-30-2019 7:56:42 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $44.80
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage,Antique MINIATURE BENCH VISE – Hobbyist, Machinist, Jeweler, Gunsmith

$70.00
End Date: Thursday Apr-25-2019 14:02:57 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $70.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Old Used Tools,Vintage Plumb . Ball Peen Hammer,Jeweler,Gunsmith,

$16.00
End Date: Saturday May-18-2019 8:17:37 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $16.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Used Gunsmith Tools

“Used” is still a popular term and is worth checking also.  Bear in mind the cautions I gave under vintage.

Gunsmith tool

$20.50 (3 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 11:02:35 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

gunsmithing tools (used once)

$16.50 (7 Bids)
End Date: Monday Apr-22-2019 11:01:25 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

gunsmith muzzle crowning tools nice and sharp

$66.00 (12 Bids)
End Date: Tuesday Apr-23-2019 6:58:59 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Gunsmithing tool

$23.50 (2 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 11:45:46 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Gunsmithing tool

$26.00 (5 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 11:56:00 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Master Gunsmith's Tools, Equipment, and Gerstner Chests

$1,599.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 12:43:14 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

UNK ? Gunsmith Reloader Clamp Knurler Roller Fond Du Lac Wi Gun Tool Royal Brass

$49.95
End Date: Wednesday May-1-2019 10:01:10 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $49.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Machinist Jewelers Gunsmith Repair Tools Micro Machining Small Milling Burr Bits

$12.95 (0 Bids)
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 5:51:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $16.95
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

Lower Vise Block Gunsmithing Tool use with barrel nut armorers wrench

$10.95
End Date: Thursday May-2-2019 10:27:16 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $10.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Brownell's Marvel 1911 Auto Hammer & Sear Fixture Jig Gunsmithing Tool

$149.99
End Date: Saturday May-18-2019 16:07:20 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $149.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

ASSORTED GUNSMITHING & RELOADING TOOLS - SELLING AS A LOT

$40.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Wednesday Apr-24-2019 16:03:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $52.00
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

VINTAGE HAND VISE, JEWELER GUNSMITH WATCHMAKER MACHINIST, V.C & Co., GERMANY

$25.00
End Date: Tuesday May-21-2019 6:16:35 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunline Checkering Tools For Gunsmithing Lot Of 3

$85.00
End Date: Tuesday Apr-30-2019 21:13:59 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $85.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Lot of 2 Vintage Gunsmith Hammer Tool

$20.00
End Date: Thursday May-2-2019 17:50:08 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $20.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Lot Gunsmith Checkering Tools Leather Working

$39.99
End Date: Wednesday May-8-2019 11:38:33 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $39.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

GUNSMITH TOOLING JIGS 7Z3

$29.99
End Date: Monday May-6-2019 5:17:59 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Stealth Arms Colt 1911 Gunsmithing Tool, Jig, Gun Tool Parts Lot

$175.04 (7 Bids)
End Date: Friday Apr-26-2019 21:50:27 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE H & R CAST IRON MINI VISE PAT. JUNE 16,1885 JEWELERS GUNSMITH

$39.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 21:54:17 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Vintage Die filer cast iron table jeweler machinist gunsmith tool collectible

$319.99
End Date: Wednesday May-15-2019 4:36:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $319.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

40 pc. Antique Brass Machinist Gunsmith Roll Drift Pin Punch Hammer Chisel Set

$296.25
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 17:32:07 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $296.25
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Magnetic PIN STARTER Gunsmithing Tool

$14.00
End Date: Monday May-20-2019 20:38:56 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $14.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Gunsmith Reloading Tool Lot for Pacific Hornady RCBS Lyman Press Shell Die Mold

$319.99
End Date: Saturday May-4-2019 9:57:05 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $319.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

VINTAGE WILL BURT VERSA VISE VICE ADJUSTABLE BENCH VISE GUNSMITHING TALL JAW

$70.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 1:42:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $142.00
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

vise base red Will-Burt Versa   Parrot Gyro Vise Vice Gunsmith

$34.99
End Date: Saturday May-18-2019 18:43:18 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $34.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Interesting Small Hand Vise Gunsmith Machinist Jewelers w/ Makers Mark

$45.00
End Date: Saturday May-11-2019 13:20:35 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $45.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

2 Antique Vintage 1.5” table vise old Jewelers gunsmith hobby tool Marshall

$149.99
End Date: Tuesday Apr-30-2019 6:01:15 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $149.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

5 Tool Lot REAMER Long TAP DRILL Machinist Milling Fab Shop Gunsmith VINTAGE USA

$22.99
End Date: Thursday May-16-2019 14:19:46 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $22.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

10pc Reamer Lot Machinist Gunsmith Tool Maker Box Clean Out Lot 8

$54.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Monday Apr-22-2019 20:03:59 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

Brownells Gunsmith Tools

Brownells has been around a long time — they were founded in 1939 and have always been known for their quality tools, parts and supplies to gunsmiths.  Because they have been around for so long, you tend to see a fair amount of Brownells stuff hit eBay by name so that is worth searching.  Still look at the photos closely and the seller’s rating to play it safe.  By the way, if you have never read their Gunsmith Kinks books – be sure to pick them up.

Brownells Gunsmith Kinks Vol 1 2 3 4 Complete set new sealed Free ship

$145.00
End Date: Friday May-17-2019 11:41:25 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $145.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Tools

What is “antique” really is up to the seller.  You’ll see stuff that ranges from a few years to over 50 years old.

Antique Oak Gunsmith Tool Cabinet Chest Removable Front w/Two Sectioned Drawers

$175.00
End Date: Saturday May-4-2019 9:24:18 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $175.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE 4" WOOD HANDLE SCREWDRIVER MADE IN GERMANY / GUNSMITH

$20.00
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 16:22:26 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $20.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Vintage Style Colt Firearms Gunsmith Bore Gage Key chain

$25.00
End Date: Tuesday Apr-23-2019 18:43:36 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE STAR MACHINIST TOOL BOX GUNSMITH WOODEN OAK 7 DRAWER LEATHER HANDLE

$125.00
End Date: Friday May-17-2019 19:03:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $125.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE H & R CAST IRON MINI VISE PAT. JUNE 16,1885 JEWELERS GUNSMITH

$39.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 21:54:17 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

The GUNSMITH'S MANUAL, Steele & Harrison-- ORIGINAL 1883 Edition - ANTIQUE

$40.00
End Date: Tuesday May-21-2019 5:51:39 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $40.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Hand Held Vise Repair Tool Watchmakers Jewelers Gunsmith Nice Clean One!

$20.69
End Date: Friday May-17-2019 11:07:30 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $20.69
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Engraving Block Ball Vise Setting Tool Jeweler Gunsmith Watch

$199.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 17:00:48 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE SWINGING GUNSMITH JEWELERS VISE

$255.00
End Date: Thursday May-16-2019 15:05:07 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $255.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

ANTIQUE VTG TINY BALL PEEN HAMMER with WOOD HANDLE GUNSMITH JEWELRY REPAIR SMALL

$15.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Saturday Apr-27-2019 11:53:10 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
Buy It Now | Bid now | Add to watch list

Antique Swiss Military Gunsmith Messenger Bag Backpack

$399.99
End Date: Sunday Apr-28-2019 9:07:49 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $399.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

40 pc. Antique Brass Machinist Gunsmith Roll Drift Pin Punch Hammer Chisel Set

$296.25
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 17:32:07 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $296.25
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Rare antique solid brass gunsmith amourer vise collectible fly tying woodcarving

$279.99
End Date: Monday May-20-2019 5:45:46 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $279.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Vintage Hand Vise Gunsmith Jewelers Jewelery Machinist Antique Clock Maker

$69.99
End Date: Tuesday May-14-2019 23:29:32 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $69.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Antique Vintage 7" Machinist Hand Vise Clamp Jewelers Gunsmith watchmaker saw

$39.99
End Date: Wednesday Apr-24-2019 12:10:48 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $39.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Rare antique stake anvil military sword gunsmith armorer collectible metal tool

$159.99
End Date: Friday Apr-26-2019 5:04:56 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $159.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

I hope this helps you out!  There is a ton of stuff out there if you experiment with the search terms some.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


*HUGE Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR AKM AK-47 7.62 Kalashnikov CAVE BUY NOW!!

$14.38
End Date: Tuesday May-21-2019 0:25:24 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $14.38
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

USSR Soviet AK47 AK74 AK 3 Magazines Ammo Pouch Canvas Bag for Kalashnikov Mags

$23.29
End Date: Wednesday May-15-2019 5:07:01 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $23.29
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

*Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR AK47 AKM 7.62x39 Kalashnikov Rifle 17x11 LQQK!

$12.97
End Date: Wednesday Apr-24-2019 3:22:13 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $12.97
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

AK-47 Soviet Army Kalashnikov Airsoft Assault Rifle/Gun -- metal/prop/M16 -- NEW

$38.95
End Date: Sunday Apr-21-2019 11:44:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $38.95
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Color POSTER Of Soviet Russian AK & RPK74 Kalashnikov 5.45x39 Rifle LQQK BUY NOW

$16.98
End Date: Friday May-3-2019 14:13:03 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $16.98
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Soviet AK-74 Strap Carrying Scabbard USSR bayonet canvas belt loop Russia

$15.99
End Date: Tuesday Apr-30-2019 2:50:51 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $15.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

USSR Russian AKS-74U Shortened AK74 Canvas Rifle Drop Case Kalashnikov Bag NOS

$16.96
End Date: Sunday May-5-2019 11:09:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $16.96
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Izhmash modern AK pistol grip Soviet Concern Kalashnikov

$45.00
End Date: Tuesday Apr-23-2019 16:55:30 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $45.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

Soviet Russian Army canvas sling belt suspension shoulder strap by AK Deer head

$6.89
End Date: Monday Apr-29-2019 7:14:53 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $6.89
Buy It Now | Add to watch list

E. German Soviet military 7.62 Bayonet Scabbard ak green strap russian knife

$84.00
End Date: Sunday May-19-2019 21:11:30 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $84.00
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Fitting a Csspecs Steel Magazine To A SDS Lynx 12ga Shotgun

Csspecs makes wicked steel magazines for a variety of niche weapons. They make a well respected magazine for 12 gauge Saiga shotguns. That meant it would fit my SDS Lynx 12ga also.

I placed my order on their website and within a week receive to magazines that were built like a tank. I had a problem with some of the plastic SDS 10 round magazines in terms of the follower going all the way to the top. The Csspecs follower shot up in the top so fast I think you could take off a body part 🙂 just kidding but it is very well done.

You have to love a magazine that is so heavily made it can be used as a defensive weapon all by itself 🙂  Seriously, Csspecs makes some wicked mags and they tell you right up front that you may need to do a bit of fitting and I did.

Fitting The Magazines

The magazines come with a small instruction pamphlet for fitting that makes perfect sense to anybody who’s ever had to fit AK magazines. Step one is to make sure that the magazine fits correctly from front to back. If it does not you trim a little bit off the back tab of the magazine.

In my case it set right in. You can see how the mag stops are coming right against the bottom of the receiver.  This is good!  If I did need to trim it, I would have carefully filed a bit and tested over and over until the mag stops contacted the receiver, polished the surface and applied cold blue per the details in the next step.

In my case, the magazine locking lever would not engage the mag’s tab at all. That means that little tab was too thick and needed to be filed down. This is really a situation where you want to use a fine hand file and take off a little bit at a time and test – don’t rush this. Take care to maintain the slight angle. This helps with the lock up.  Do not make it flat and try to keep it as straight across as possible.

I can’t stress enough, take your time.  The above was done with a single-cut file where one edge was ground down so I can make cuts like this with out damaging the surface.  You can sometimes buy files like I show below with one or both edges left plain.  In my case, I used my belt sander to remove the teeth on that side.

This is not a situation where you want to rush. Take a little bit off at an angle and test over and over. It probably took me about 5 minutes per magazine. You want the magazine to lock into place firmly. If it is really loose I would recommend welding some material back on and fixing it.

After the filing, I did use a fine rubber abrasive polishing but in my Dremel to smooth the surface out so the lock up process would be smoother.

[amazonjs asin=”B00M6DE4V0″ locale=”US” title=”TEMO 16 pcs RUBBER Polishing Burr 4, 6, 8, 10mm (5/32, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 inch) Bullet Cylinder with 3mm (1/8 inch) Shank for Dremel and compatible”]

After I had the fitting correct, I use the little bit of Brownells Oxpho blue liquid on Long dobbers and blued the surface followed by some oil.

[amazonjs asin=”B00SOUKFLW” locale=”US” title=”Oxpho-Blue Professional Grade Cold Blue”]

That is all there was to it. I hope this helps you out. Kudos to CS specs for making some very nice magazines. These things are rock solid and I may very well pick a couple more up at some point.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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Switched to Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease For All of My Firearms

I’m always searching for better lubricants.  Many of the so-called specialty weapons lubes are just marketing hype with some bulk lubricant poured into their container.  In terms of greases, I’ve used quite a few over the years including wheel bearing grease and Tetra Gun Grease.  I wanted to find something effective, non-toxic and less expensive.

A name popped up when surfing – Super Lube.  To be honest, the first few times I totally dismissed the name because it sounds like some overly-hyped wonder lube that is sold in infomercials.  However, the name did keep popping up so I actually started reading up on it.

Super Lube products are made by Synco Chemical Corporation of Bohemia, NU, that was founded in 1980.  Their specialization is in the space of synthetic food grade lubricants and hold a number of patents.

There are a number of interesting characteristics about their grease that should be noted:

  1. It is designed to disperse very finely ground micron-sized PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) which is a non-stick coating and lubricant.  You probably know it by the brand name of Teflon.  The approach they developed is one of their patents.
  2. It does not contain silicone
  3. It will work in a wide range of temperatures from -45 to +450 Farenheit
  4. It’s thickness is NLGI class 2, which means it’s about the same as vaseline or peanut butter.
  5. It’s non-toxic and food safe – here is the MSDS/SDS
  6. It will not melt or separate
  7. It will not dry out or get gummy
  8. It is waterproof
  9. It does not stain and is odorless – for you folks who do concealed carry or shoot a lot in uniform, you might want to take note of that.

Their website has a ton of information on Super Lube and also on lubrication in general if you want to spend some time reading.

I bought a 14.1oz tub of the Super Lube Multi-Purpose grease off Amazon for a whopping $11.50 and Prime shipping.  Very affordable to say the least.

To apply it, I use either a chip brush that I store in a zip loc bag to keep from getting dirty (as shown in the featured photo above) or a small flux / resin brush that I also keep in a baggy.

So, for the last few months I have been testing it.  When I cleaned one of my rifles or pistols, I would replace whatever I had been using as grease with the Super Lube Multi-Purpose grease.

I go by the old saying that if it rotates, oil it.  If it slides, grease it.  That is my rule of thumb so it goes on AK rails, bolt carriers, where the trigger hook grabs the hammer, etc.

It works great!  The weapons feel well lubricated after cleaning and they function great.  When I take them apart again for cleaning, the Super Lube shows no sign of breaking down, drying out, becoming gummy, etc.

If you are looking for an excellent affordable grease, check out Super Lube.  I’m definitely very happy with it.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.

Amazon product listings are at the bottom of the post.


THE LYNX 12 – POST 3 OF 3: Adding the Customizations

This is the third post in a three part series about customizing a Lynx 12 Shotgun.  In the first post, I wrote about my “out of the box” observations and in the second post, I disassembled the Lynx and also recorded observations.  In this final post, I’ll add in my planned customizations and explain my rationale for each.

Installing the Rifle Dynamics AK to M4 Adapter

I like M4 stocks and did some digging around.  In the past, I have used Ace/Double Star and other modular adapters.  The problem with them is that unless you cut the tang off the rear trunnion, you have a rather long receiver block sticking out of your rifle and I wanted to avoid that.

I do a lot of surfing and a new style of adapter had caught my eye made by Rifle Dynamics.  They have an AK to M4 stock adapter that rides over the tang vs. behind it.  This design gets rid of the receiver block sticking out or the need to alter the rifle.  The adapter got good reviews so I added one to my growing order of stuff from Carolina Shooters.

The unit comes with clear instructions but do read the little yellow supplement they include.  After getting feedback about the angle the unit positions the buffer tube at, they added two small Delrin washers that need to be installed also.

Installation took about 10 minutes – in large part because I was snapping photos but also because I didn’t want to rush and make a mistake.

So the big L-Bracket just goes under the tang and is screwed into place.  I put Blue Loc-Tite on both screws to prevent them from loosening up.  Based on past experiences with stocks that loosened up using modular mounts, be sure to use some form of thread locker.  I did not tighten the screws down yet because I wasn’t sure if I would need to wiggle the tube adapter into place or not.

So with the L-Bracket in place, I then attached the Tube Adapter.  The Delrin washers go between the Tube Adapter and the L-Bracket.  I applied Blue Loc-Tite to these screws also.

I then tightened down all the screws and that was it.

Adding a C&H Mercury Buffer to the M4 Buffer Tube

Based on past experience with other similar firearms, I knew the Lynx would be front heavy plus I knew 12 gauge shotguns in general have a fair amount of recoil.  Both of these could be addressed by installing a C&H Mercury Recoil Suppressor.  I use the model 100785 as I know it will slide down the buffer tube of an M4 given the suppressor measures 7/8″ x 5″.  You wouldn’t use this in a normal AR because the buffer tube would have the buffer and spring inside.  However, in our case, an AK does not use the buffer tube so that means we can do whatever we want.  I ordered by unit from MPC Sports, where I have bought them in the past.

I’ve used these a number of times over the years in shotguns and rifles to add weight to the rear and to reduce the recoil.  This last part is interesting.  Basically you have a 7/8″ diameter heavy tube that is 5″ long that is hollow.  Inside it is partially filled with liquid mercury and then very tightly sealed — there is no way it is coming out.

What happens is that when the firearm is fired and the rearward motion starts, the mercury liquid sloshes in the tube.   The tube goes back and the mercury partially stays in place until it is hit by the front of the tube.  This helps to split the recoil impulse into two parts – the initial impulse and then when the mercury hits.

If you can’t afford a mercury buffer you could always fill the rear 5-6″ with bird shot and then cap it with a thick layer of epoxy.

The Mil-Spec six position buffer tube is a straight forward unit made by Expo Arms and I bought it from Primary Arms.  You will still need to get the castle nut and end plate of your choice.  Primary Arms, Brownells and Palmetto are all good places to check.  I really do not recall where I got the castle nut and end plate I used on this project – they were in a parts bin.

Installation is very simple because all you need to do is epoxy it into the buffer tube.  I would recommend scuffing the tube with a bit of sand paper so the epoxy can stick well and then spray down the supressor and the inside of the buffer tube with brake cleaner.

Not all epoxies are up to the task.  I’d recommend Brownell’s Acra-Glas liquid epoxy for this (not their gel version).  I use 10cc syringes to meter out 4 parts resin to 1 part hardener.  I mixed up and used 4 batches so 16 cc of resin and 4 cc of hardener.  Make sure you stir it completely.  The stuff has a long pot like so really mix it well.

I secured the buffer tube in my vise and made sure it was vertical.  Next, I poured a bit down in the tube first – just enough to put a thin layer at the bottom and inserted the suppressor into the tube and poured in the remaining epoxy.  It will need to sit and cure for 2-4 hours before you can handle it.  I keep an eye on the remnants in the mixing cup to see when it is hard enough to handle as the temperature will affect how long it takes.  Note – it needs to cure 24 hours to reach full strength and you’d want that before firing the weapon and subjecting the epoxy to stress.

At any rate, after pouring, wipe off any epoxy you may get on the tube.  Brake cleaner on a rag will help until it cures.  After that, it would likely require sanding to remove so be sure it is clean before you walk away.

So with that done and curing I moved on to the grip.

Installing the Ronin’s Grips AK-12 Grip

The Lynx comes with a basic pistol grip but I wanted to use one of my AK-12 grips.  These are very ergonomic and feel really good to me.  I wear an XL-size glove and both the size and angle work for me.

I replaced the small 5mm bolt with one of our 6mm alloy bolts and also used a 6mm grip nut that I had in my parts bin to secure the grip in place.

In the same manner as other AKs, the grip nut sits in the square hole behind the trigger guard and then the grip sits on the other side and the bolt pulls them together with the receiver sandwiched in the middle.

Adding a Chaos Saiga 12 Apollo 12 Extended Rail

The Lynx can use Saiga handguards so you have a lot of options.  I like the look and feel of Chaos rails.  I had one on my Vepr and decided to go with the Apollo 12 Extended M-LOK Rail for the Lynx.

Installation is pretty easy.  You will need to remove the original sights though.  A small punch can be used to drift out the rear sight and either a small wrench or pliers can be used to unscrew and remove the front sight.  I’d recommend having a Zip Loc bag or something to store these parts in just in case.

Unscrew the four screws on the sides to split the rail system into its two halves.  The bottom slides into position.  Use their screw to secure the front.  Use Blue Loc-Tite on it too.   In the rear by the receiver is a set screw.  Back it out, apply Blue Loc-tite and then screw it down.  It will push on the barrel lock the handguard into position so it will not wobble.

With the base secure you can install the top half when ready.  Notice how I said that.  What I found is that the bolt carrier must be installed and the dust cover installed before you install the top half.  So, I went ahead lubricated the shotgun and closed it up before I installed the top rail.  This also brings to light that the screws will need to be removed to gain access to inside the shotgun for cleaning.  Time will tell how well that works out.  If it drives me nuts, I’ll cut the rail off flush with the gas tube seat.  Right now though, I sure like how it positions my red dot.

Lubricating the Lynx

As mentioned above, I had to install the bolt carrier assembly and dust cover to then finalize the rail.  I am doing something different with the Lynx.  A month back I started using Super Lube synthetic grease on my Uzi and it worked great.  With the Lynx having the heavy parkerization on everything, I used Superlube to grease the rails and all sliding surfaces.  I used a precision oiler with Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic on all of the rotating parts.  Boy did this combination make things operate smoothly!

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Installing the M4 Mil-Spec Buffer Tube

By now, the buffer tube with the mercury suppressor was cured enough to be safely installed.   Basically, it is installed the same as on an AR but it is much heavier.  Thread the castle nut all the way to the end of threads, install the end plate and then screw the tube into the Rifle Dynamics stock adapter.  Note need to buy the end plate and the castle nut – they typically do not come with a buffer tube.

When you are almost out of space to screw the buffer tube because of the end plate riding in the groove, stop, push the end plate into the adapter and tighten the castle nut down using your favorite tool.

In the next photo you can see that I am using a end plate with sling loops plus you can see that I staked the castle nut.  Because of the recoil of the 12 gauge, I created a small divot with a center punch – this is known as “staking”.  It will mechanically lock the castle nut in place.   I could have put Blue Loc-tite on the castle nut but I went old school.

I then used a cotton swab and some Brownells Oxpho-Blue to cold blue the bare metal to a black color and then wiped it down with WD-40.

Installing the Magpul ACS Stock with Limbsaver Pad

I like the Midway ACS stocks.  They are comfortable, have a locking lever to keep them from wobbling and have storage compartments you can either really use for storage or fill with epoxy and bird shot to further adjust the weight and balance of a rifle.

As luck would have it, I don’t have a photo of the stock before installation but will tell you that the one challenge is to lift the locking pin.  Magpul gives you a dummy cartridge to help with this but I made a tool to hook the pin and lift easy as can be.

Now one thing that is nice with hard recoiling firearms is a decent recoil pad.  I’ve long been a fan of Limbsaver pads and they make a model specific for the Magpul ACS, ACS-L, CTR, MOE, STR and UBR.  It’s nice and thick and provides a lot of cushion especially compared to the original pad it replaces.

I purchased the Magpul ACS for Mil-Spec buffer tubes from Primary Arms and the recoil pad off Amazon.

Installing the JMac RRD-4C 12 Brake

If you want to tame recoil, a good brake is essential.  Justin McMillion and his company JMAC Customs make some great brakes so reaching out to him for a brake made perfect sense.  He recommended their RRD-4C “12” brake.

The first thing I noticed was it’s size – it’s huge and badassed looking.  Installation is a breeze.  Unscrew the thread protector from the Lynx to expose its threads.  Screw on the jam nut as far as you can and then thread on the brake as far as you can.  Back it off enough that the brake is flat and the chambers are venting up as shown below.  Then tighten the jam nut up against the back of the brake to lock it in place.

Installing the Crossfire Red Dot and American Defense Quick Release Lever

My go to red dot these days is the excellent Vortex Crossfire unit.  It’s small and only has a 2 MOA dot.  It comes configured for an AR but you can remove the tall base and use the supplied shorter one for a lower mount.  Recently, I started using American Defense bases  because they have a solid quick release lever so you can remove the red dot quickly.  The base required is the AD-T1-L STD.

You just unscrew the four little screws on the bottom  of the optic, apply Blue Loctite on the screws and attach it to the new base.  Not hard at all!  The results are totally worth it.

Caution about eBay:  Watch out for cheap counterfeit products on eBay.  I would recommend buying the optic and mount from a reputable dealer to make sure you are getting the real deal.  The cheap knock offs just do not hold up.

Streamlight TLR-2 HL G

I installed a small 5 slot Magpul M-Lok aluminum rail section on the bottom front of the handguard to hold a Streamlight TLR-2 HL G 800 lumen light and green laser.  I have found they hold up remarkably well.  In this age of cheap Chinese products, I would recommend buying a light that will work when you need it most.

To mount it, follow the directions with the light to install the key for the Picatinny rail.  It comes with several and then it just screws onto the mount with the thumbscrew,

Caution about eBay:  Watch out for cheap counterfeit products on eBay.  I would recommend buying the Streamlight from a reputable dealer to make sure you are getting the real deal.  The cheap knock offs just do not hold up.

The End Result

I am very happy with how it turned out.  The balance is great and the red dot is located just right – when I bring the shotgun up – the dot is right where I need it.  I definitely need to take it to the range and like how it turned out.  By the way, the magazine you see is the new SDS 10 round unit.

I hope you enjoyed these blog posts.  There will be more to come 🙂


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon to buy something.   With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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The Lynx 12 – Post 2 of 3: Disassembly and Observations

In the first post, I documented my favorable first impressions of the SDS Lynx 12 shotgun.  After posting, at least 10 gentlemen have come forward stating how much they like their Lynx 12 shotguns and nobody reported any problems.  In this post, I’ll write about taking the shotgun apart in order to install my planned customizations, which will be in the next post.

Call me old school, but the first thing I did was to read the manual 🙂  The next thing was to hose down the hole shotgun and wipe it down to remove all the odd smelling rust preservative.  I really didn’t care for the tacky feel to be there while working on it.  Once removed, I sprayed on Rem Oil to prevent rust while I was working on it.  Rem Oil is nice and thin and doesn’t have too much of a smell.  It’s my go to for situations like this.  If you do remove the preservative, just be sure to apply whatever oil or rust inhibitor you prefer.

Removing the Dust Cover and Recoil Spring

The dust cover comes off by pushing the release latch (the little button that sticks up) on the recoil spring and pushing the whole assembly forward while lifting the dust cover up and off the receiver.

You’ll notice I have the Lynx sitting in my Tipton vise.  I’ve had it for years and it really makes working on long arms way easier.

With the dust cover off, you can get a good look at the recoil spring  assembly.  Some guys will call this the operating spring or the return spring but basically it absorbs the energy of the bolt carrier assembly coming back after firing and then when the spring has enough energy, it pushes the bolt carrier assembly forward to then cock the trigger and strip a round off the magazine and go back into battery.

Compared to a regular AKM, you will notice the release latch and the rubber buffer assembly at the rear.  I find the use of a buffer interesting.  Normally the spring should absorb the energy and my bet is that the designers put it there in case the user either adjusts the gas regulator such that the system is over-gassed and the carrier comes back with more force than the spring alone can handle or they put it there just in case of a round that generates more pressure than what the spring can handle but the gas regulator doesn’t exactly have the right setting — imagine needing a gas setting of “3.5”. At the third position there is too much gas but at 4 there is too little.  I have little doubt it is a good idea.  I’d recommend to keep a spare buffer on hand and inspect the one in the shotgun regularly.  It ought to last a long time under most conditions but the buffers are dirt cheap.

To remove it, push forward on the rear part that normally protrudes from the dust cover.  It should slide forward in the slot that holds it on the trunnion until it is free and you can then lift up and pull back to remove the assembly from the bolt carrier and shotgun overall.

You will also note that the designers made the recoil spring assembly two parts – the rear is a tube like an RPK or older milled AKs with one spring.  There is then an additional cover that rides on that rear tube and normally closes the otherwise enlarged ejection port in the dust cover.  In front of that is then a floating spring.

Removing the Bolt Carrier Assembly and Looking Inside the Receiver

First, remove the bolt carrier assembly.  It slides to the rear of the receiver and can then be lifted up out of the receiver.  Note – it must be fully to the rear or the receiver’s guide rails will retain it.

It’s interesting how the bolt carrier is short.  In the gas tube, which is pinned in place, is a disc, that some call the “gas puck” or just “puck” which is the gas piston.  Unlike an AKM, the gas tube is held in place by the gas tube seat (it reminds me of a rear sight block in a way) that would need it’s retaining pin to be punched out to be removed.  When you tilt the shotgun forward and back, you can hear the puck moving back and forth in the gas tube.  I didn’t take the gas tube assembly apart but it looks straight forward enough.

The carrier is holding a really massive bolt.  It operates very much like any AK – the bolt head has a cam that travels through a slot in the carrier that in turn rotates it into or out of battery.

By moving the bolt head to the rear, the cam can be rotates out of the slot and the bolt head then removed from the carrier.

Look at the size of the extractor!

Interestingly, the firing pin has a spring pushing it backward compared to the floating firing pins you normally find in an AK rifle.  In this photo you can see the tail of the firing pin pushed out the back of the bolt body by the spring.

Looking down in the receiver was a very typical looking fire control group.  Note, it has been tweaked slightly to work in a Saiga or Lynx so if you want to replace the fire control group you will need to either buy one made for the the Saiga or Lynx or you will need to make some modifications.

Normally I replace the fire control group (FCG) with a US made set but the Lynx’s trigger is surprisingly decent.  Not great, but decent.  It was gritty from the parkerizing and lack of use but I figured grease and time could cure that.  I may well swap it out in the future but time will tell.

The Pistol Grip

Now I did run into one surprise that I did not expect – see the grip nut below?  I figured it would be a regular AKM nut meaning threaded for a 6mm diameter x 1.0mm pitch screw.  It’s not.  I did not expect this but the grip screw is actually smaller than an AK’s.  The screw is actually 5mm diameter x 106mm long.  I did not bother finding out the pitch by the way because it would not be staying!  Instead, I focused on the hole in the receiver – it was the same size as a normal AKM grip nut.  Whew – Problem solved.  I would replace it  with a beefier AKM nut and one of our high-strength alloy grip screws (I’ll detail that in the next post).

To remove the grip, there is a blade screw head on the base.  Simply unscrew it and remove the grip and the grip nut.

Removing the Buttstock

The plastic buttstock is held in place by two machine screws on the top of the rear trunnion.  The rear trunnion is an AK-74 forked style with the front portion open.  The stock with its lightning cuts on the side harks to the 74 also other than having a recoil pad thicker than what you would find on a 74.

Given how front heavy the shotgun felt, I was not surprised to find out that the buttstock was actually hollow.  The Chinese installed threaded inserts for strength.  I think that is commendable actually.  The fit of the buttstock to the receiver is both well done and very tight.  This is what will bear the recoil – the screws are just there to hold it together.

Because of the tight fit, I secured the rifle in my vise after removing the selector lever.  I then used a wood dowel and hammer to tap on the lip of the stock to push it backwards out of the receiver.  It really didn’t take much force to get it out.  For those of you who have tried to get an old varnished AK-47 stock out of a receiver, you know exactly what I mean and the Lynx requires just a small fraction of that.

The Forearm

The sporting looking forearm is held in place by a 5mm diameter x 11mm long screw.  Unscrew it and push the handguard forward past the gas tube and then pull it off the barrel.  Mine was a tight fit so I did need to pull it off the barrel and not just lift.  I did use a small piece of wood and a hammer to get it started out of the receiver.

Done

At this point, I had the shotgun all the way apart other than the muzzle cap.  I left that on to protect the threads while I worked.  The next blog post will detail the customizations and a few surprises that happened along the way.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.

The Lynx 12 – Post 1 of 3: Unboxing and First Impressions

For some reason, I never really got into the Saigas when they were the hot conversion ticket. I guess it was because I was mainly working on rifles and had a Vepr 12. At any rate, when I heard from Paul Popov that SDS was importing a Saiga-12 clone known as the Lynx 12 from China where it was made in the same factory that made the Type 56 AKs.  Even better, it did not need the conversion and the street price was about $499, I contacted Scott Igert, my friend who owns Modern Antique Firearms in Benton Harbor, MI, to order me one.

In short order the shotgun arrived and then promptly sat idle as I was busy with a ton of other projects. Scott nudged me along to take a look as he was curious about the Lynx 12 also as were clients of his. That prompted me to get my act in gear and take a close look at the shotgun by taking it apart to install a bunch of modifications I had planned.

The first step was to give it a careful external exam. The Lynx had a nice heavy uniform dark parkerized finish – probably a manganese “park” given the color.  There was some type of preservative on it that had the most interesting smell.  I have no way to describe it other that to say it did not smell like the typical cosmoline-ish anti-corrosion coatings I was used to.  Note, parkerization does not prevent rust but what it does do is create a textured surface that oil, preservatives or even weapons finishes can “grab” hold of an stay in place.  For example, when I build an AK, I have found that abrasive blasting, followed by manganese parkerization and then Norrell’s Molyresin is a remarkably durable finishing process.  By the way, I have a post on how to do make and apply your own manganese parkerization.

The rivets were pretty good – in a few cases the domes were flatter than others, which is me nit picking, but they all were sitting nice and snug against the sheet metal.  Rivets are pretty amazing and result in strong attachments of the forged trunnions to the sheet metal as long as they are formed properly and the Lynx’s rivets are solid.

I found it interesting that the front trunnion sits on top of the sheet metal receiver.  The fitment was pretty good.

There were reports of early models having sharp edges but I did not see any.  All edges and the parkerized finish were well done.

I did notice that the rear stock screw as a bit chewed up by whomever installed the rear stock.  Normally you see this when someone uses a screw driver blade that is too small.  Not too bad and since I planned on replacing the rear stock, I really wasn’t worried about it.

The selector lever was noticeably loose.  On most AK rifles, it takes a bit of effort to move the lever between the safe and fire positions.  The lever on the Lynx moves very easily.  I’ll bend the lever slightly or use a center punch to increase the depth of the detent.  Again, not a big worry.

Because the shotgun is brand new and the fire control group and the inside of the receiver are all parkerized, the action was pretty rough.  This was to be expected – the parts need to wear in.  I knew from experience that cleaning and better lubrication would help.

The muzzle cover was easy to remove and threaded nicely.  It is threaded to use Saiga chokes and brakes.

The dust cover has an additional retainer spring and pin that you do not see on most AKMs to hold the dust cover in place.  Notice the attention to detail that the retaining button is shaped to allow the dust cover to clear it better.

A nicely done optics side rail is already installed and begging to be used.

It’s a good thing that is there because I really think you will want to run a red dot either via a scope mount or on a front rail.  The Lynx’s sights are to the front and rear of the gas tube.  The rear has a dovetail and can be drifted with a pin punch to the left or right.  The front sight is threaded and can be adjusted up or down.  They definitely are functional but I don’t care for them at all to be perfectly honest.

The gas regulator is pretty slick and how has four settings for you to choose from.  The SDS website describes the settings thusly:

…smallest dot = basically no gas, no rounds will usually cycle when the regulator is on this position. Next smallest dot = “00” buckshot, high velocity rounds and slugs. Next to largest dot = all things in between your results and field testing will be required to see what your individual shotgun will run in this setting. Largest dot = birdshot and other lower powered ammunition.

You’ll notice it has an AK-74 looking buttstock but it is actually hollow and very light.  It’s nicely formed and installed but the net result is that the shotgun is light overall but very front-heavy.  I planned to replace the buttstock, grip and forearm from the start and I will describe what was one and why in future posts in this series.

It uses Saiga magazines also.  One five round mag comes with the shotgun and SDS now sells 10 round magazines also that you can readily find.  It’s actually harder to find spare five round SDS-brand magazines right now than the 10 round units.

By the way, if you are interested about how it shoots, I haven’t had a chance to take it out yet.  In researching the shotgun and how durable it was, I talked to Paul Popov and he has 350 rounds through his with no signs of trouble.  I also talked to Justin McMillion at JMAC Customs and they have put through about 500 rounds also with no problems showing up.  Here is a great overview video from Justin and his wife Ashley:

To sum it all up, I was pretty impressed with my initial just out of the box assessment.  I’m certainly not done though as I bought the Lynx specifically to customize and blog about.  The custom Lynx 12 blog series will have two more posts – one about disassembly and then one with the customizations I made.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon to buy something.   With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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How to Remove Old Cosmoline and Grease or Even Free Up Rusty Parts The Easy Way

We’ve all had parts come in with really dried out preservative on it such as grease or cosmoline.  I bought some 100 year old khukuri blades that were coated in dried out grease and realized this was a great time to take some photos.  There’s a way to get all this crud off very easily – most will practically wipe off!

I learned the following trick years ago after a friend was worried I would blow myself up using gas, brake cleaner, etc.  In hindsight I must admit it was risky but I rationalized it because I needed to get the parts clean – this is not only effective but also way safer.

Take a 5 gallon pail with a sealable lid on it.  In the photos you see a basic Ace Hardware plastic bucket with it’s lid that has a waterproof gasket.

I first learned about this years ago for firearms and it is a cleaner known as Ed’s Red and I’ve used it ever since.  The formula was developed and shared by a gentleman named “Ed Harris” and it works great for dissolving grease, cosmoline and even penetrating rusty parts.

The basic formula is:

  • 1 part Dexron III or better
  • 1 part deodorized kerosene
  • 1 part mineral spirits
  • 1 part acetone

I use it over and over, which is why I recommended the lid.  I’ve been using this bucket for probably 3-5 years now.  If it gets really gross or seems to stop working then I will change it but it’s fine so far.

So, I set the blades in the ATF and liberally coated the sides and let it sit.  I periodically would reverse the blades so they could be immersed.  If they were smaller parts, I’d drop them in there and let them sit for a few days.

What I wold so each time when I turned them was to rub the blades down and try and get the softened/dissolved grease off.  A lot of it would wipe right off with no scrubbing.

So here they are a couple of days later simply wiped down.  I left a thin film of ATF on them to reduce the odds of rust but all the old dried grease is gone.

When I am done, I put the lid back on and move the pail out of the way.  I do keep wet parts out of the cleaner as I don’t want to contaminate it with water but other than that, I’ve soaked all kinds of greasy, oily, rusty, dirty parts in this.  The crud settles to the bottom of the pail over time.  I’ve learned that if I stir it up there is a lot of debris.  If it gets too bad, it will be time for a new batch.

I mentioned it in passing but this is also great for penetrating rusty parts so you can take them apart.  I can’t begin to guess what all I have soaked in this bucket over the years but it sure includes gun parts, blades, rusty car parts, etc.  It’s a huge time saver and I hope it helps you out as well.

P.S.  If you want to read more on Ed’s formula, click here for his original article that is in the public domain.


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Yes, 922r Does Apply to Short Barreled Rifles (SBRs)

Please note that I am not an attorney and this does not constitute legal advice.

The topic of 922r compliance and parts counts came up the other day as whether it applies to Short Barreled Rifles (SBR). In reading the conflicting ATF documentation, the last guidance given in technical branch letters from 2009 and 2010, the ATF does say it applies.  I put it this was as you should look at the trend over time which does seem to point towards 922r being applicable.

I am a very conservative guy and always try to stay on the safe side of legal issues so I would recommend ensuring your SBR is compliant with the 922r parts count requirements.  If you do this then you do not need to worry about it and I am sure there are folks who would disagree with me.

Here is the 2009 letter:

Here is the three page 2010 letter:

Again, please let me stress that I am not an attorney.  If you have any questions on this, I would recommend doing your own research and/or retaining legal counsel.

 


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How to Install a Yugo M85 or M92 Dust Cover Quick Takedown Pin from Ronin’s Grips

Years ago, I bought a barreled M92 kit from AK-Builder.com and assembled it.  I then installed a Stormwerkz rail and a Primary Arms M4-style red dot and the dust cover being attached to the rear sight block really got annoying fast.  After some careful examination, I figured out a quick release pin with a ball bearing detent to hold it in place would really make things easier.  It worked great and I have been selling the pins like crazy for almost two years.  I made a mistake though – I didn’t take step by step photos about how to do the installation and people keep asking for a how-to guide.  Thus, I recently bought a Yugo M92 PAP pistol imported by Century Arms from my good friend Scott Igert, who owns Modern Antique Firearms in Benton Harbor, MI, so that I could do some step by step how-to instructions with a lot of photos for folks.

The work will be done with a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, a few small punches, hammer and a rubber gunsmith block.

SAFETY STEP – MAKE SURE THE WEAPON IS UNLOADED.  NEVER ASSUME THAT IT IS – VERIFY IT IS UNLOADED BEFORE YOU BEGIN WORK.

1.  Look at the hinge pin/rivet.  On the side opposite the charging handle, you will see a big rivet head.  On the right side, you will see an odd looking head it is actually the rivet just slightly peened over into a concave washer.  It is that side that we will grind the peened over portion off with our Dremel.  By the way, it is really a pin but it has one end peened over like a rivet.  A rivet would swell into the hole and lock everything up – a pin does not.

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2.  If you don’t use a Dremel tool, take a few minutes and do some practice cutting with a cut off wheel.  It has a tendency to scoot around and you need to get a feel for it so you can control it.  Please, please, please – do not take your Dremel out of the box and try to do this for the very first time.  I like the cordless Dremel as I can work anywhere and lately I have become very fond of the EZ Lock bits.  Of course you can use whatever tool you are comfortable with but this step by step explanation should make the work required more clear (I hope).

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3.  If you are still learning, put a couple of pieces of tape with a slit over the pin’s head that is peened into the washer.  With some tape in place, if your hand slips you will be less likely to mar your finish.  Folks, the secret tip is to do very light cuts.  Let the weight of the tool or even less do the work.  Do NOT push down hard or you will snap the bit.  I also rest my hands on any surface that I can to have more control.  You’ll notice I have a rubber gunsmith block to support the pistol – you could use a piece of pine, a hockey puck, or another non-marring surface.  You want the weapon to be stable when you work on it and you will need to lightly tape the hinge pin/rivet free once the head is ground off.  I used pieces of wood for years and years before bought the block – the key is to have the support and use something that will not scratch up your finish.

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4.  You are just removing enough metal get get rid of a small lip on the rivet.  The next two photos show you the slightly concave look I put in the rivet and you can barely see the shaft.  I then used a small pin punch and a tap from a small hammer to get the pin moving.  It will take very little force to get it to move.  If it doesn’t readily move, then you may need to grind it a bit more.  The only thing holding that rivet shaft in place is the peened edge – it is not swollen in the hole.

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5.  This is a photo of the removed rivet and the hinge rivet/pin starting to slide backwards.  I then used a small punch pin to push it out.  The fourth photo shows the original pin and washer so you can see the end result.

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6.  At this point, the dust cover hole is clear but do not try to push the new pin in.  The cover cams shut and it will be needlessly difficult to push the pin in.  For comparison, our pin is shown next to the original.  The pin with a groove in it is something you do not want to lose!  The angled portion is face up towards the dust cover and the round end goes towards the gas tube.  When the dust cover closes, the pin slides forward and holds the gas tube is locked in place.  It’s very simple and does the job just fine.  This locking pin is held in the rear block by the dust cover pin so every time you remove the pin, it can come out.  Just keep track of it each time you clean your M85 / M92 as you will need it.

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7.  Now, to install our quick takedown pin, install the dust cover, lift it up and align the holes.  At this point, there is no pressure and our pin will slide easily into the hole.  When the dust cover is closed, the resulting pressures lock everything in place.  That is why it works so well with hinge mounted picatinny rails.  My favorite these days is the hinge mounted frail from CNC Warrior by way and we’ll right up an installation guide for that as well.

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So that’s it!  Again, the key is to use light pressure when grinding the peened over portion of the original hinge pin/rivet away. Then, install the new pin with the dust cover open so it can readily slide in.

If you are interested in buying a pin, please click on this link to go to our online store.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon to buy something.   With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.