Category Archives: AKBuilds

How to build AK/Kalashnikov-type semi-automatic rifles and pistols.

PSA AK-V Part Three: Changing the Brace, Adding a Red Dot and Installing A Quick Takedown Pin For The Dust Cover

Out of the box, the AK-V is impressive. The trigger is decent, the grip and handguard are functional but there were three things I really wanted to do – move to a SBA4 brace, install an optic and create a quick takedown pin so the dust cover could be removed (the big reason I bought the AK-V from a business perspective). So let’s step through each.

Replace The SBA3 Brace With An SBA4

Yes, they are both adjustable braces but that comparison ends there. The SBA4 is much more sturdy and has five length of pull adjustment positions. The SBA4 does go on sale and that is the time to buy one. I got mine for $99 at PSA’s July 4th sale and there was free shipping!

The SBA4 is the top brace and the SBA3 is the bottom. You can instantly see the SBA4 has more bracing and is bulkier. The back end does not flop around either unlike the SBA3.

Now PSA did something with the SBA3 that is a best practice. They staked the castle nut to the receiver end plate. Now, I started thinking about what would be my easiest option and it dawned on me that if I was SB Tactical and wanted to control cost and complexity, I would try and have as few inventory parts as possible and that means as few buffer tubes. Guess what? The SBA3 and the SBA4 both use a Mil-Spec 6 position buffer tube. Problem solved. You can remove the brace just like most AR/M4 stocks – lift up on the locking pin and slide it right off.

The Castle Nut has two real solid stakes in it. Kudos to PSA.
Ta-da! Under the brace is a Mil-Spec buffer tube or “receiver extension” depending on who you talk to. The SBA3 and SBA4 use the same tube!! Note, the weapon is upside down for this photo.
Here’s a good shot of the receiver. See that small vertical slider switch just above the mag catch? That’s the bolt release. The M4 buffer tube / receiver extension they are using is rock solid. If it is made by someone else, I don’t recognize it.
Here’s the tail end of the SBA4 on the left vs. the SBA3 on the right.
The SBA4 uses the same buffer tube and slides right on in place of the SBA3 brace.

The result is a very sturdy brace. After comparing the two, I will only use SBA4 braces going forward.

Vortex Crossfire Red Dot Optic and American Defense Mount

I doubt I will ever go past 100 yards with the AK-V and a much more likely engagement distance is 50 yards so a red dot is perfect. I’m a huge Vortex Optics fan and this was a perfect situation for their Crossfire Red Dot mounted on an American Defense AD-T1-L STD quick detach mount. They are my favorite combination of price and performance these days.

By the way, be sure to keep a couple of spare 2032 Lithium batteries in your case or range bag. Nothing dampens a range trip like dead batteries. It’s also why I use a quick detach mount – if the batteries are dead or that optic fails, I am yanking that optic off.

With the AD-T1-L STD mount you are a tad higher than the AK-V’s sights. I plan to watch how they relate at the range so I can ballpark where to aim if the battery is dead and am in a rush. Practice, practice, practice and not just when everything works.

Here’s the Vortex Crossfire Red Dot on the American Defense AD-T1-L STD mount. If you wonder why I use American Defense, it’s for the quality. Cheap Chinese/import quick detach rings shoot loose, don’t return to zero and bend/break over time. AD stuff is rock solid made from aerospace aluminum. Note, you can see our Quick Takedown Pin just above the handguard and I’ll cover that next.

The AK-V Dust Cover Quick Takedown Pin

I had to look up — I built my first Yugo M92 in 2012 and instantly hated the hinged dust cover. I drilled out the rivet and came up with a stainless pin with a ball detent and pull ring to secure the cover. The rest is history. I wound up making pins for the M92/M85, Tula and Bulgy Krinks use the same pin, Vepr shotguns and now the AK-V.

The reason for wanting a quick takedown pin is plain and simple, when you want to clean the weapon or work in the receiver, the hinged dust cover is in the way. To remedy this, you can install our AK-V quick pin and it’s about a 10 minute job if you know how to strip down an AK. This is a quick overview:

  1. Ensure the weapon is empty.
  2. Field strip the weapon like you would any AK, remove the gas tube and the lower handguard so they are out of the way. 
  3. The AK-V’s hinge is simply a 5/32″ roll pin that needs to be tapped/punched out so use something like a bench block to support the weapon and create a hole/gap for the pin to exit into.
  4. Use a 5/32″ roll pin punch and a hammer to tap the roll pin out.  You can save it for the future in case you ever want to use it again for some reason. 
  5. Put the dust cover back in place with the hinge holes lined up and slide in our quick takedown pin.
  6. Re-assemble the weapon.
  7. Done
Here, I have the rear sight block fully supported by the bench block behind it and am using a 5/32″ roll pin punch and hammer to drive the roll pin out.
What makes a roll pin punch different from a normal punch is the dome in the middle that centers the punch on the pin and makes driving the pin out very easy. It also reduces the risk of a regular punch slipping off what you are working on an scratching the finish.
So this is what you wind up with once the roll pin is removed.
This was my first attempt because I am right handed. Having the pull ring there right next to the gas tube locking lever was just too much. I flipped it around and had the pull ring on the other side of the gas block.
This is how I am running it now. The pull ring is on the left / non-operating side and the ring is tucked just behind the handguard.

We have the pins up for sale on our website now. Click here to order one.

Summary

Looking good!

The AK-V was almost done at this point. I still needed to lubricate the weapon and put it in a suitable case. I’ll tell you about that part of the journey in the next post.


This is a four part series on the PSA AK-V 9mm:


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon. With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated. Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


What To Do When Your AK’s Barrel Is Too Big For Your Front Trunnion?

A few years ago, I bought a 1969 Polish Radom Circle 11 AKM kit from Arms of America. It has laminate furniture, matching parts and they populated a new Polish Chrome Hammer Forged (CHF) barrel with the front, gas and rear sight blocks. Furthermore, it was headspaced. I double checked that before I pushed out the barrel pin and then the barrel – that’s where things got interesting.

Pressing Out The Barrel

I have a 30 ton H-style hydraulic press with a 20 ton air-over-hydraulic bottle. The thing is a brute and have used it many, many times over the years on gun and car projects. There are a few things you learn over the years – 20 tons is 40,000 pounds and is a serious amount of pressure – steel parts can bend, break or even shatter under those loads. You learn to go slow, watch carefully feel the pump and listen. I also learned long ago to use the air to move the ram quickly but always do the real work by hand for those very reasons – I’ve bent the crap out of stuff in years past because you can’t tell what is going on.

I wear a full face shield when working with a press. I’m not joking when I say things can go bad fast when there is a lot of pressure. When you push out a barrel, you just don’t expect a ton of pressure from a new kit – at least I don’t. I’ve had some real hairy barrel pins and barrels in years past when dealing with surplus… but not on a new kit with a populated barrel … not until now.

Pressing Out the Barrel

As you can guess, the barrel did not press out easily. I had to apply a boatload pressure – way more than average. So much that I put a 3/4″ piece of plywood between me and the trunnion/barrel assembly. I was also checking and double-checking that my barrel press tool squarely on just the barrel and not a part of the trunnion – guys I was nervous.

I reached the point where I knew I was squarely on the barrel and something had to give. I was whacking on the press trying to shock the barrel out and I kept upping the pressure – pump, whack, pump, whack… Finally the barrel came free like a gun shot. Guys- do you remember the old Romy kits where the pins and barrels sometimes felt like you were taking your life into your own hands? That’s what this felt like.

I actually inspected the front trunnion very carefully looking for cracks. I then inspected the chamber end of the barrel – nice and smooth – remarkably smooth. No signs of galling. Ditto on the inside of the trunnion. I suspect that someone was using some kind of press system that included a barrel support and slammed that new barrel in using a level of force I couldn’t do without damaging parts. I noted to myself that reassembly was probably going to be just as colorful.

Building The Kit

Nothing new about building the kit – I had fun. In the below photo, the front trunnion and rivets are just sitting there. I was mocking things up and they are not actually set. I installed the trigger guard taking care to orient the selector stop properly and using a rubber band to keep the assembly together as I used my press and an AK-Builder trigger guard rivet jig to do the job.

The rubber band keeps the receiver down on the trigger guard jig so the rivet, selector stop and trigger guard all stay in place while you move around. The AK-Builder jig really does a nice job.
Here, everything is drilled and seems good to go.

So let’s get back to the main point of this blog post and why you are probably reading this – what do you do when the interference fit is too tight and the barrel will not go into the trunnion all the way.

Life Got Colorful Trying to Press The Barrel Back In

Yeah, that tight fit came back to haunt me. I tried polishing the trunnion and applying non-seize. Usually this works for me but when I went to press the barrel back in, it would not go. I saw the barrel begin to deflect in the press and immediately stopped. Let me explain what I mean by deflect – a material will bend so much and spring back into place. When I saw the barrel begin to deflect, I immediately stopped – it was taking way too much pressure and I was risking bending the barrel permanently. It was time to press the barrel back out and rethink the situation.

Here’s my barrel and my receiver. I double-checked the barrel to make sure I did not bend it – I got lucky. I always get worried if I see the barrel start to deflect/bend — they don’t always return to true.

So, what this confirmed for me was the someone slammed this thing together – hard. An AK barrel is press fit into the trunnion. To do this, the barrel is a tad bigger than the hole made for it in the trunnion by about 0.0010-.0026″ (0 .025-0.065mm) according to Robert Forbus who is a true machinist and has shared a ton with the AK community – click here for his page). At the tighter end (around 0.002″) it is getting hard, if not outright impossible, for someone to press the barrel into the front trunnion without the proper specialized barrel press equipment that supports the barrel. I have a big press but nothing to properly support the barrel in these high-pressure situations. It would likely warp like a wet noodle if I just kept adding pressure.

I don’t own a machine shop but I am a redneck with a shop. I needed to open up the barrel channel in the trunnion and opted to use an OEM brand brake hone. Why? Because I’ve used these small bore hones in the past for other things and was pretty sure it would work for this too.

I also need to point out that I have no way to accurately measure the barrel or the trunnion so I figured I would remove a bit and try to install the barrel, remove a bit and try, over and over until it went in. The next picture shows my OEM hone (and the Lisle is virtually identical):

This is an OEM Tool brand brake hone and the Lisle unit looks virtually identical.

Take a look at the above picture – by tightening the knurled nut at the base of the spring, you can apply more and more pressure to the 220-grit stones at the end of the arms. (The Lisle tool’s stones are 240 grit purely FYI – not a big difference.) I just used the basic pressure and did not increase it. Life lesson for me years ago – it’s easier to take more material off than it is to put it back on.

I applied cutting oil to the trunnion liberally and then slid the hone in and out with my drill on slow speed. I would do this for a bit, clean stuff, and then tested how far the barrel goes into the trunnion by hand and then keep removing more. This is not the time or place to get impatient.

By the way, OEM makes fine 400 grit stones that you can swap into place and use to polish the interior further if you . I got the job done with the 220 grit stones and silver Permatex anti-seize compound. If I ad the 400 grit stones handy at the time, I would have done so but I did not. Also, be sure to clean out the grit/dust before you try to reinsert your barrel.

My one action photo and it was blurry! You get the idea. Keep it lubed with the cutting oil and keep moving the unit in and out so you are polishing the whole barrel channel.

This is a down and dirty “git ‘er done” approach and will make machinists cringe. I go slow and test — I would push the barrel in, test and the press it back out if need be. [Click here to see how to make a barrel backout tool].

*IF* you see a bur or squished rivet protruding in the trunnion, then carefully grind that down with a Dremel and polish with the hone. Don’t try to do it all with the hone or you will be removing material elsewhere that you may need – the arms are spring loaded and independent so they will go where ever they can. This is a pro and con.

After a couple of tries, the barrel went all the way in with the press. To be safe, I confirmed the head space using real Manson brand 7.62×39 gages (use real gages folks and treat them well – don’t go cheap). The barrel headspaced just fine so I pressed in the pin and finished the rifle up.

Bottom line, a brake hone can help you carefully remove steel from the front trunnion and get a tight fitting barrel to go in. It worked wonders on this 1969 cold warrior that is now ready to go to the range.

The 1969 Polish AKM rebuilt and ready for the range!
The rifle is wearing one of our Polish Tantal/AKM grips as a 922r compliance part – we make them by hand here in Michigan from a glass fiber reinforced polymer.

Click here to learn more and order one of our Polish Tantal/AKM grips.


One of our fire control group retaining plates. that fits all AKMs and rifles that use standard AKM fire control groups.

It also has an ALG fire control group – they are awesome triggers – and one of our fire control group retaining plates. Click here for our fire control group retaining plates.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


WBP Rogów Videos How They Demil a Circle 11 Underfolder AK — Pretty cool but sad too

Wytwornia Broni Jacek Popinski (WBP) is a privately owned firearm manufacturer located in Rogów, Poland.  Some folks assume it is the old government Radom armory with a different name but it is not.

In the US, we know about WBP because of the efforts of Arms of America (AoA) to import high quality Polish AK kits and, recently, firearms.  I ordered my first kit from AoA a tad over a year ago and ordered a number of other things from them including a demilled Radom kit that I want to build this Winter.

In usual form, I was surfing around and found this video that WBP had posted showing them demilling a Circle 11 underfolder.  Part of me is always sad to see one of these fine guns being cut up just to enable importation into the US but another part of me is also happy because at least this way we get to enjoy them.

This is a brief video and I was pretty intrigued towards the end watching how they remove the blocks from the barrel and drilled out the rivets.  Having demilled a lot of kits in the past, I’ve always found the rivets to be tedious.

Here’s the brief video that’s just under 10 minutes and I hope you enjoy it:


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Please note that all images were extracted from the video and remain the property of their respective owner(s).


Polish AK Bayonet

$30.00 (18 Bids)
End Date: Friday Dec-6-2019 16:32:12 PST
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POLISH BERET WITH POLISH ARMY HAT BADGE

$9.99 (1 Bid)
End Date: Friday Dec-6-2019 16:45:36 PST
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Polish Army Military Police Surplus Helmet ZW Zandarmeria Wojskowa

$28.95
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Unissued Polish Army Puma Camo Backpack Rucksack Holdall

$27.00
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WWII Polish Army Gallantry Campaign Service Cased Enamel Medal

$9.97 (1 Bid)
End Date: Tuesday Dec-10-2019 12:49:16 PST
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POLISH ARMY CZAPKA ROGATYWKA FIELD INFANTRY CAP WZ34/ M34

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POLISH ARMY COMMANDO SPECIAL TROOPS FIGHTING KNIFE M98 / WZ98

$69.00
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POLISH ARMY UNIFORM SIZE SIZE LARGE

$59.99
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.Poland Polish Army Uniform Hard Webbing Belt

$24.45
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Tips on Finding Decent Gunsmithing Tools on eBay

One of the challenges when starting out working on guns is building your tool collection.  It’s hard to find cost effective tools so you wind up making do with stuff, creating tools ad hoc, etc.  Interestingly enough, this is where eBay just might help.  While I’m not happy with their anti-gun position, there are a lot of tools that pop up there – ranging from low-end Chinese stuff all the way to some beautiful vintage tools.

So, I want to show some example searches with 20 live feeds from each section:

Gunsmith and Gunsmithing Tools

The trick is in the searching.  For example, here are the top 20 matches for gunsmith tools or gunsmithing tools and you will probably see a mix:

Wheeler Fine Gunsmith Tools SAE/Metric/Hex/Torx P-Handle Driver Set: 1081957

$58.94
End Date: Saturday Dec-7-2019 11:49:44 PST
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Real Avid+Wheeler Universal Bench Block Non-Marring Gunsmith Tools Kit Accessory

$22.00
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Gunsmithing Tools Hammer Punch Set Cold Chisel Drift Pin Brass Center Roll Rod

$32.99
End Date: Friday Dec-13-2019 4:05:47 PST
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Real Avid+Wheeler Universal Bench Block Non-Marring Gunsmith Tools Accessory Kit

$22.99
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Universal Firearm Durable Bench Gun Block Gunsmith Wheeler Gunsmithing Tools

$15.41
End Date: Tuesday Dec-24-2019 23:01:49 PST
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gunsmithing tools used

$2.00 (1 Bid)
End Date: Friday Dec-6-2019 15:33:02 PST
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Brass 7 pc Precision Roll Drift Pin Gunsmithing Tool Punch set Made in USA

$19.95
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 20:06:09 PST
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Gunsmith Tools-4 Brass Muzzle Laps-Rifle Or Pistol Crowning Kit - Lapping Crown

$24.95
End Date: Tuesday Dec-17-2019 16:22:06 PST
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Gunsmithing Tools headspace gauge 7.62X39 Clymer No Go

$23.50 (5 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Dec-8-2019 15:09:31 PST
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Non-Marring Hand Guard Removal Tool Free-Floating Rifle Gunsmithing Tools

$9.95
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Gunsmithing Tools Brownells ,S&W , Range Gauges , Springs

$70.00 (0 Bids)
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HANDY GUNSMITH TOOLS PUNCHES HAMMER TWEEZER PLIERS !!

$27.50
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Gunsmithing Tools Kit Firearm Screw Kit Gun Repair FIx Set Scopes 277 P Gunsmith

$56.90
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Gunsmithing Tools Pin Punches Carrying Case Workshop Equipment Shooting Supplies

$20.61
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gunsmithing tools Smith & Wesson, Power Custom , Brownells

$78.00 (3 Bids)
End Date: Monday Dec-9-2019 7:16:58 PST
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Soft Steel Starter Punch Set for Roll & Solid pins Gunsmithing tools

$16.95
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Gunsmith Tools 5 Brass Muzzle Laps-Rifle Or Pistol Crowning Kit - Lapping Crown

$33.95
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Gunsmithing Tools

$76.00
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Of course there are brands I will steer away from such as NCStar and others that I will look closer at such as Brownells, Lyman, Tipton, Weaver, etc.  I also read the ratings of the seller.  If a seller has a good rating and more than 30 sales, that’s a good sign.  Less than that and you are taking a gamble.

Vintage Gunsmith Tools

“Vintage” seems to be a popular term for “used”.  You tend to find a lot of unique stuff that was made by a gunsmith to fit a special need as well as high-quality tools that were made with care vs. mass produced.  Be careful though.  I’ll zoom into the photos as much as I can plus look at the seller’s description and the rating of the seller to try and decide if the tools are in good shape or beat to death.

Vintage 2 1/2" Jaw Gunsmith Jeweler Clamp On Bench Vise Stamped U.S. - Military?

$60.00
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VTG Engravers Gravers Jewelers Gunsmith Punches 64+ Tools

$12.95 (0 Bids)
End Date: Friday Dec-6-2019 16:34:12 PST
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Lot of 5 Small Vintage Gunsmith Jeweler Clamp On Bench Vises

$60.00
End Date: Saturday Jan-4-2020 16:00:39 PST
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Antique Vintage Small Jewelers Hand Vise Tool Vice Gunsmith Watchmaker Machinist

$29.99
End Date: Monday Jan-6-2020 0:01:01 PST
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VINTAGE 12.15 Oz ALL METAL BALL PEEN HAMMER GUNSMITH MACHINIST JEWELER KNURLED

$12.45
End Date: Sunday Jan-5-2020 14:32:27 PST
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VINTAGE 1 OZ PASCHALL HAMMER #1301 JEWELER GUNSMITH MACHINIST SMALL

$30.00 (11 Bids)
End Date: Tuesday Dec-10-2019 17:10:48 PST
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VTG GUNSMITH SILVERSMITH JEWELER TOOLS, VISE, ANVIL, HAMMER, PLIERS SCREWDRIVERS

$68.50
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 7:23:26 PST
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VINTAGE 4.85 Oz ALL METAL BALL PEEN HAMMER GUNSMITH MACHINIST JEWELER KNURLED

$12.45
End Date: Thursday Dec-12-2019 13:48:14 PST
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Scarce Antique Winchester Tools Gunsmith Punch Pin Vintage Gun Rifle Parts

$55.00
End Date: Tuesday Dec-17-2019 16:36:22 PST
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Vintage gunsmith blacksmith tinsmith hardy Cone handmade Iron anvil 29 oz

$29.00
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 23:15:46 PST
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VTG GUNSMITH SILVERSMITH JEWELER TOOLS FILES CALIPERS HAMMER TURNSCREWS VISE ETC

$60.00
End Date: Thursday Dec-19-2019 10:06:43 PST
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VINTAGE STANLEY CLAMP ON BENCH VICE ANVIL JEWELER GUNSMITH VICE

$45.00
End Date: Monday Jan-6-2020 9:16:06 PST
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Vintage German Turnus Hand Vise Wood Handle 1 1/16" Jaws 5/8" Gunsmith Jeweler

$28.99
End Date: Wednesday Jan-1-2020 13:55:46 PST
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DEM-BART GUNSMITH TOOLS, VINTAGE; (2-16 & F-1) IN ORIGINAL BOXES

$78.00
End Date: Tuesday Dec-24-2019 7:41:50 PST
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VTG Gunsmith tools take down barrel 12GA 16 GA wrench COLT S&W M&P lathe tools

$85.00
End Date: Monday Dec-16-2019 13:04:39 PST
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Vintage Vice Jewelers Mini Small 1 3/4” Jaws Gunsmith

$8.50 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Dec-12-2019 11:49:25 PST
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Vintage Versa-Vise Will-Burt Co. Gunsmithing 3 1/2" Jaws Vise

$119.00
End Date: Wednesday Dec-18-2019 17:57:29 PST
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Vintage Gunsmithing Machinist Machine Tools, Reamers - Machine Shop Tooling

$80.75
End Date: Thursday Dec-19-2019 1:20:51 PST
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Vintage HAND HELD VISE Clamping Jewelers Crafters Gunsmith Vise Antique Tool

$25.99
End Date: Friday Jan-3-2020 6:53:58 PST
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Machinist Sharpening Honing Stones Lathe Mill Die Maker in Vintage Box Gunsmith

$49.99
End Date: Friday Jan-3-2020 7:29:28 PST
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VINTAGE SMALL CLAMP ON BENCH VISE 1 5/8" JAW. JEWELERS, GUNSMITH, TOOLMAKER.

$39.00
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 10:36:33 PST
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Vintage Versa-Vise Will-Burt Co. Gunsmithing Vise 4-1043-5 - No Base

$74.95
End Date: Friday Jan-3-2020 12:50:07 PST
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Used Gunsmith Tools

“Used” is still a popular term and is worth checking also.  Bear in mind the cautions I gave under vintage.

Hagen Engineering Gun Engraving Hand Tool Gunsmithing Gun Blades Incomplete

$49.99
End Date: Monday Dec-9-2019 11:33:04 PST
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Gun Stock Checkering Tools & Extra Cutters Gunsmithing Tool

$22.50 (8 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 9:51:41 PST
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gunsmithing tools used

$2.00 (1 Bid)
End Date: Friday Dec-6-2019 15:33:02 PST
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VTG Engravers Gravers Jewelers Gunsmith Punches 64+ Tools

$12.95 (0 Bids)
End Date: Friday Dec-6-2019 16:34:12 PST
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VINTAGE 12.15 Oz ALL METAL BALL PEEN HAMMER GUNSMITH MACHINIST JEWELER KNURLED

$12.45
End Date: Sunday Jan-5-2020 14:32:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.45
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DEM-BART GUNSMITH TOOLS, VINTAGE; (2-16 & F-1) IN ORIGINAL BOXES

$78.00
End Date: Tuesday Dec-24-2019 7:41:50 PST
Buy It Now for only: $78.00
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VTG Gunsmith tools take down barrel 12GA 16 GA wrench COLT S&W M&P lathe tools

$85.00
End Date: Monday Dec-16-2019 13:04:39 PST
Buy It Now for only: $85.00
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B-Square SKS Sight Windage and Elevation Tool Gunsmith Tool

$17.95 (0 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 13:41:12 PST
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Manson 9.3x74r Finish Reamer Gunsmith Tool

$64.50 (1 Bid)
End Date: Saturday Dec-7-2019 8:08:56 PST
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gunsmithing tools Smith & Wesson, Power Custom , Brownells

$78.00 (3 Bids)
End Date: Monday Dec-9-2019 7:16:58 PST
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Gunsmithing Tools headspace gauge 7.62X39 Clymer No Go

$23.50 (5 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Dec-8-2019 15:09:31 PST
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Gunsmithing Tools Brownells ,S&W , Range Gauges , Springs

$70.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Dec-12-2019 7:35:29 PST
Buy It Now for only: $155.00
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Vintage Gunsmithing Machinist Machine Tools, Reamers - Machine Shop Tooling

$80.75
End Date: Thursday Dec-19-2019 1:20:51 PST
Buy It Now for only: $80.75
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VTG GUNSMITH SILVERSMITH JEWELER TOOLS FILES CALIPERS HAMMER TURNSCREWS VISE ETC

$60.00
End Date: Thursday Dec-19-2019 10:06:43 PST
Buy It Now for only: $60.00
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Dem- Bart Co. Gunsmith Tool

$27.70 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Dec-12-2019 12:25:42 PST
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GUNSMITHS TOOLS TURN SCREW SCREWDRIVER ANTIQUE EBONY, HANDLE EBONY, RARE

$150.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 17:30:25 PST
Buy It Now for only: $150.00
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Antique Vintage Small Jewelers Hand Vise Tool Vice Gunsmith Watchmaker Machinist

$29.99
End Date: Monday Jan-6-2020 0:01:01 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
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Field Belted Magnum Headspace Gauge Gunsmith Tool

$18.95
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 6:31:26 PST
Buy It Now for only: $18.95
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1983 Brownell's Gun Accessories, Reloading, Gunsmithing Tool Catalog

$50.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-7-2019 15:10:38 PST
Buy It Now for only: $50.00
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35 Remington Go & No-Go Headspace Gauge Set Gunsmith Tool

$39.95
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 6:31:26 PST
Buy It Now for only: $39.95
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13 Iron Steel Bench Blocks 25 15 10 5 3 1 BLS Blacksmith Jeweler Anvil Gunsmith

$150.18
End Date: Wednesday Jan-1-2020 17:13:52 PST
Buy It Now for only: $150.18
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Vintage HAND HELD VISE Clamping Jewelers Crafters Gunsmith Vise Antique Tool

$25.99
End Date: Friday Jan-3-2020 6:53:58 PST
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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Vintage 2 1/2" Jaw Gunsmith Jeweler Clamp On Bench Vise Stamped U.S. - Military?

$60.00
End Date: Saturday Jan-4-2020 16:00:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $60.00
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FOSTER PROD. MACHINIST MILLING GUNSMITH LATHE FACING TOOL

$14.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Dec-8-2019 13:33:16 PST
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Vintage Gunsmith Vise

$35.00
End Date: Sunday Dec-29-2019 6:19:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $35.00
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Brownells Gunsmith Tools

Brownells has been around a long time — they were founded in 1939 and have always been known for their quality tools, parts and supplies to gunsmiths.  Because they have been around for so long, you tend to see a fair amount of Brownells stuff hit eBay by name so that is worth searching.  Still look at the photos closely and the seller’s rating to play it safe.  By the way, if you have never read their Gunsmith Kinks books – be sure to pick them up.

Brownells Gunsmith Magna Tip 3/16" Allen Bit H5228X

$3.99
End Date: Friday Dec-27-2019 13:46:06 PST
Buy It Now for only: $3.99
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Brownells Gunsmith Kinks Vol 1 2 3 4 Complete set new sealed Free ship

$145.00
End Date: Monday Dec-9-2019 10:41:25 PST
Buy It Now for only: $145.00
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Vtg 1983 Brownells Gunsmith Catalog No 36 Gun Parts

$12.50
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 12:01:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.50
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Antique Tools

What is “antique” really is up to the seller.  You’ll see stuff that ranges from a few years to over 50 years old.

Antique Gauge Tool for...? Gunsmith or Machinist Measuring

$9.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 17:03:52 PST
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GUNSMITH LOT OF 5 ANTIQUE VINTAGE RIFLE / SHOTGUN TUMBLERS

$14.95 (0 Bids)
End Date: Thursday Dec-12-2019 20:03:47 PST
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Scarce Antique Winchester Tools Gunsmith Punch Pin Vintage Gun Rifle Parts

$55.00
End Date: Tuesday Dec-17-2019 16:36:22 PST
Buy It Now for only: $55.00
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Antique Vintage Gunsmith Machinist Scribe Awl Scratch Tool RARE! VERY NICE!!

$14.00
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 8:17:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $14.00
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Antique Vintage Small Jewelers Hand Vise Tool Vice Gunsmith Watchmaker Machinist

$29.99
End Date: Monday Jan-6-2020 0:01:01 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.99
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Antique German fabricacion Alema Hand Vise Blacksmith Gunsmith Machinist Jeweler

$35.00
End Date: Thursday Dec-26-2019 13:48:02 PST
Buy It Now for only: $35.00
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Antique Vintage Style Colt Firearms Gunsmith Bore Gage Key chain

$25.00
End Date: Wednesday Dec-25-2019 17:43:36 PST
Buy It Now for only: $25.00
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ANTIQUE ANVIL JEWELERS/GUNSMITH'S BENCH ANVIL- LOOK-14lbs.

$80.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-21-2019 12:25:52 PST
Buy It Now for only: $80.00
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Antique Ornate Round Patch Box Cover for Early Gun, Gunsmith Repair

$19.99 (0 Bids)
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 17:01:13 PST
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Large Antique Gunsmith Statue White Metal with Good Patina 40+ In. Titled

$595.00
End Date: Thursday Dec-12-2019 17:07:28 PST
Buy It Now for only: $595.00
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Antique Oak Gunsmith Tool Cabinet Chest Removable Front w/Two Sectioned Drawers

$175.00
End Date: Saturday Jan-4-2020 8:24:18 PST
Buy It Now for only: $175.00
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Wrought Antique Blacksmith Gunsmith Firearms Jeweler's Iron Bench Vise Inv#TF95

$75.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 15:14:47 PST
Buy It Now for only: $75.00
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Wrought Antique Blacksmith Gunsmith Firearms Jeweler's Iron Hand Vise Inv#TF94

$38.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 14:54:17 PST
Buy It Now for only: $38.00
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Wrought Antique Blacksmith Gunsmith Firearms Jeweler's Iron Hand Vise Inv#TF93

$40.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 14:45:26 PST
Buy It Now for only: $40.00
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Vintage HAND HELD VISE Clamping Jewelers Crafters Gunsmith Vise Antique Tool

$25.99
End Date: Friday Jan-3-2020 6:53:58 PST
Buy It Now for only: $25.99
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I hope this helps you out!  There is a ton of stuff out there if you experiment with the search terms some.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


80s Soviet Army 3-Cell Mag Pouch AK

$9.99
End Date: Sunday Jan-5-2020 19:12:43 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
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*HUGE Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR AKM AK-47 7.62 Kalashnikov MAN CAVE BUY!!

$17.97
End Date: Wednesday Dec-25-2019 23:25:24 PST
Buy It Now for only: $17.97
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Original Vintage Soviet carrying sling SKS AK NAVAL Blavk/blue clear stamp RARE

$16.90
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 8:28:50 PST
Buy It Now for only: $16.90
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*Soviet Russian AKM AK-47 7.62x39 Kalashnikov Color Poster 17x11" manual BUY NOW

$12.97
End Date: Thursday Dec-26-2019 21:09:56 PST
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AK47 Soviet USSR Russian Poker Hand Printed Men's Tee Shirt 968

$9.95
End Date: Monday Dec-23-2019 16:32:05 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.95
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AK47 Soviet USSR Russian Poker Hand Printed Men's Tee Shirt 968

$12.95
End Date: Monday Dec-23-2019 16:32:05 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.95
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Original Vintage Soviet carrying sling SKS AK NAVAL Blavk/blue clear stamp RARE

$19.90
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 8:25:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.90
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AK47 T Shirt Soviet USSR Russian Poker Hand Printed 100% Cotton

$16.99
End Date: Wednesday Dec-11-2019 6:37:25 PST
Buy It Now for only: $16.99
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Russian Soviet Army original canvas case for AK, RPK, SKS 106 cm/ 41" length

$18.00
End Date: Saturday Dec-7-2019 2:27:43 PST
Buy It Now for only: $18.00
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AK-47 Soviet Army Kalashnikov Airsoft Assault Rifle/Gun -- metal/prop/M16 -- NEW

$39.95
End Date: Friday Dec-27-2019 10:44:58 PST
Buy It Now for only: $39.95
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AK47 CCCP Russian Folding Pocket Knife Kalashnikov Stainless/wood Assisted open

$16.95
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 19:37:20 PST
Buy It Now for only: $16.95
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Authentic Vintage USSR Soviet Army Pouch Ammo Ak

$18.99
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 11:13:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $18.99
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*Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR AK47 AKM 7.62x39 Kalashnikov Rifle 17x11 LQQK!

$12.97
End Date: Tuesday Dec-17-2019 0:59:16 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.97
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Soviet KGB Shield, AK-47, & UZI Pin, Badge

$19.00
End Date: Sunday Dec-29-2019 11:26:56 PST
Buy It Now for only: $19.00
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KALASHNIKOV AK-47 USSR Soviet Russian Short Sleeve T-Shirt AK47 Greatest Hits

$16.95
End Date: Friday Dec-27-2019 17:17:03 PST
Buy It Now for only: $16.95
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KALASHNIKOV AK-47 USSR Soviet Russian Russia KGB CCCP Long Sleeve T-Shirt

$18.99
End Date: Saturday Dec-7-2019 12:13:04 PST
Buy It Now for only: $18.99
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*Soviet Russian AK74 & RPK74 ORIGINAL Manual 5.45x39 1988 Kalashnikov MUST SEE!

$89.97
End Date: Tuesday Dec-31-2019 19:51:27 PST
Buy It Now for only: $89.97
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BIG! Color Poster Soviet Russian USSR AK47 AKM 7.62x39 Kalashnikov Rifle BUY Now

$29.97
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 0:19:12 PST
Buy It Now for only: $29.97
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AK Interactive AK2300 Soviet Aircraft Colors 1950-1970 (Air Series) Paint Set

$26.99
End Date: Saturday Jan-4-2020 20:32:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $26.99
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AK-47 Vinyl Sticker Decal Military Soviet Kalashnikov Rifle Choose Size

$1.64
End Date: Monday Dec-23-2019 17:28:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $1.64
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Enjoy Kalashnikov Shirt Funny AK47 Pro Gun Second Amendment Rifle Come Take It

$13.49
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 21:09:44 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.49
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AK47 Soviet USSR Russian Poker Hand Printed Men's Tee Shirt 968

$9.95
End Date: Monday Dec-23-2019 16:32:05 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.95
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Nobody Needs An AK47 Whiny Little Funny T Shirt Guns Gun Rights Rifle Hunter Tee

$6.99
End Date: Friday Dec-13-2019 13:11:23 PST
Buy It Now for only: $6.99
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$6.99
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $6.99
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AK47 - AR15 T-SHIRT Rifle Tee ~ GUNS ~ 2nd Amendment

$13.79
End Date: Sunday Dec-29-2019 17:19:56 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.79
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AK47 AR15 Molon Labe New Men's Shirt 2nd Amendment Guns Rights USA Flag Pro-Guns

$9.95
End Date: Sunday Jan-5-2020 14:40:14 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.95
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$10.05
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.05
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Russian Graphic Cotton Gray T-Shirt AK-47 Kalashnikov Gun Shirt

$15.00
End Date: Saturday Jan-4-2020 15:08:41 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.00
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AK-47 and Bullet American Flag - 2nd Amendment USA Mens T-shirt

$10.33
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 10:20:21 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.33
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MAFIOSO CLOTHING AMONGST THIEVES AK 47 RIFLE GUN T SHIRT

$9.99
End Date: Saturday Dec-14-2019 19:29:10 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$10.05
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.05
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$10.05
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.05
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AK47 - AR15 T-SHIRT Rifle Tee ~ GUNS ~ 2nd Amendment

$15.63
End Date: Sunday Dec-29-2019 17:19:56 PST
Buy It Now for only: $15.63
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AK47 Soviet USSR Russian Poker Hand Printed Men's Tee Shirt 968

$12.95
End Date: Monday Dec-23-2019 16:32:05 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.95
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AK47 AR15 Molon Labe New Men's Shirt 2nd Amendment Guns Rights USA Flag Pro-Guns

$13.95
End Date: Sunday Jan-5-2020 14:40:14 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.95
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$10.05
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.05
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$10.05
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.05
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$12.58
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.58
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F--- Gun Control Funny T Shirt Gun Rights 2nd Amendment AK47 Hunting Tee

$12.58
End Date: Friday Dec-20-2019 15:28:08 PST
Buy It Now for only: $12.58
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AK-47 Assault Rifle Pro-gun Rights 2nd Second Amendment Freedom Mens T-shirt

$10.17
End Date: Sunday Dec-15-2019 3:48:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: $10.17
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Fitting a Csspecs Steel Magazine To A SDS Lynx 12ga Shotgun

Csspecs makes wicked steel magazines for a variety of niche weapons. They make a well respected magazine for 12 gauge Saiga shotguns. That meant it would fit my SDS Lynx 12ga also.

I placed my order on their website and within a week receive to magazines that were built like a tank. I had a problem with some of the plastic SDS 10 round magazines in terms of the follower going all the way to the top. The Csspecs follower shot up in the top so fast I think you could take off a body part 🙂 just kidding but it is very well done.

You have to love a magazine that is so heavily made it can be used as a defensive weapon all by itself 🙂  Seriously, Csspecs makes some wicked mags and they tell you right up front that you may need to do a bit of fitting and I did.

Fitting The Magazines

The magazines come with a small instruction pamphlet for fitting that makes perfect sense to anybody who’s ever had to fit AK magazines. Step one is to make sure that the magazine fits correctly from front to back. If it does not you trim a little bit off the back tab of the magazine.

In my case it set right in. You can see how the mag stops are coming right against the bottom of the receiver.  This is good!  If I did need to trim it, I would have carefully filed a bit and tested over and over until the mag stops contacted the receiver, polished the surface and applied cold blue per the details in the next step.

In my case, the magazine locking lever would not engage the mag’s tab at all. That means that little tab was too thick and needed to be filed down. This is really a situation where you want to use a fine hand file and take off a little bit at a time and test – don’t rush this. Take care to maintain the slight angle. This helps with the lock up.  Do not make it flat and try to keep it as straight across as possible.

I can’t stress enough, take your time.  The above was done with a single-cut file where one edge was ground down so I can make cuts like this with out damaging the surface.  You can sometimes buy files like I show below with one or both edges left plain.  In my case, I used my belt sander to remove the teeth on that side.

This is not a situation where you want to rush. Take a little bit off at an angle and test over and over. It probably took me about 5 minutes per magazine. You want the magazine to lock into place firmly. If it is really loose I would recommend welding some material back on and fixing it.

After the filing, I did use a fine rubber abrasive polishing but in my Dremel to smooth the surface out so the lock up process would be smoother.

After I had the fitting correct, I use the little bit of Brownells Oxpho blue liquid on Long dobbers and blued the surface followed by some oil.

That is all there was to it. I hope this helps you out. Kudos to CS specs for making some very nice magazines. These things are rock solid and I may very well pick a couple more up at some point.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.



Switched to Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease For All of My Firearms

I’m always searching for better lubricants.  Many of the so-called specialty weapons lubes are just marketing hype with some bulk lubricant poured into their container.  In terms of greases, I’ve used quite a few over the years including wheel bearing grease and Tetra Gun Grease.  I wanted to find something effective, non-toxic and less expensive.

A name popped up when surfing – Super Lube.  To be honest, the first few times I totally dismissed the name because it sounds like some overly-hyped wonder lube that is sold in infomercials.  However, the name did keep popping up so I actually started reading up on it.

Super Lube products are made by Synco Chemical Corporation of Bohemia, NU, that was founded in 1980.  Their specialization is in the space of synthetic food grade lubricants and hold a number of patents.

There are a number of interesting characteristics about their grease that should be noted:

  1. It is designed to disperse very finely ground micron-sized PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene) which is a non-stick coating and lubricant.  You probably know it by the brand name of Teflon.  The approach they developed is one of their patents.
  2. It does not contain silicone
  3. It will work in a wide range of temperatures from -45 to +450 Farenheit
  4. It’s thickness is NLGI class 2, which means it’s about the same as vaseline or peanut butter.
  5. It’s non-toxic and food safe – here is the MSDS/SDS
  6. It will not melt or separate
  7. It will not dry out or get gummy
  8. It is waterproof
  9. It does not stain and is odorless – for you folks who do concealed carry or shoot a lot in uniform, you might want to take note of that.

Their website has a ton of information on Super Lube and also on lubrication in general if you want to spend some time reading.

I bought a 14.1oz tub of the Super Lube Multi-Purpose grease off Amazon for a whopping $11.50 and Prime shipping.  Very affordable to say the least.

To apply it, I use either a chip brush that I store in a zip loc bag to keep from getting dirty (as shown in the featured photo above) or a small flux / resin brush that I also keep in a baggy.

So, for the last few months I have been testing it.  When I cleaned one of my rifles or pistols, I would replace whatever I had been using as grease with the Super Lube Multi-Purpose grease.

I go by the old saying that if it rotates, oil it.  If it slides, grease it.  That is my rule of thumb so it goes on AK rails, bolt carriers, where the trigger hook grabs the hammer, etc.

It works great!  The weapons feel well lubricated after cleaning and they function great.  When I take them apart again for cleaning, the Super Lube shows no sign of breaking down, drying out, becoming gummy, etc.

If you are looking for an excellent affordable grease, check out Super Lube.  I’m definitely very happy with it.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.

Amazon product listings are at the bottom of the post.


THE LYNX 12 – POST 3 OF 3: Adding the Customizations

This is the third post in a three part series about customizing a Lynx 12 Shotgun.  In the first post, I wrote about my “out of the box” observations and in the second post, I disassembled the Lynx and also recorded observations.  In this final post, I’ll add in my planned customizations and explain my rationale for each.

Installing the Rifle Dynamics AK to M4 Adapter

I like M4 stocks and did some digging around.  In the past, I have used Ace/Double Star and other modular adapters.  The problem with them is that unless you cut the tang off the rear trunnion, you have a rather long receiver block sticking out of your rifle and I wanted to avoid that.

I do a lot of surfing and a new style of adapter had caught my eye made by Rifle Dynamics.  They have an AK to M4 stock adapter that rides over the tang vs. behind it.  This design gets rid of the receiver block sticking out or the need to alter the rifle.  The adapter got good reviews so I added one to my growing order of stuff from Carolina Shooters.

The unit comes with clear instructions but do read the little yellow supplement they include.  After getting feedback about the angle the unit positions the buffer tube at, they added two small Delrin washers that need to be installed also.

Installation took about 10 minutes – in large part because I was snapping photos but also because I didn’t want to rush and make a mistake.

So the big L-Bracket just goes under the tang and is screwed into place.  I put Blue Loc-Tite on both screws to prevent them from loosening up.  Based on past experiences with stocks that loosened up using modular mounts, be sure to use some form of thread locker.  I did not tighten the screws down yet because I wasn’t sure if I would need to wiggle the tube adapter into place or not.

So with the L-Bracket in place, I then attached the Tube Adapter.  The Delrin washers go between the Tube Adapter and the L-Bracket.  I applied Blue Loc-Tite to these screws also.

I then tightened down all the screws and that was it.

Adding a C&H Mercury Buffer to the M4 Buffer Tube

Based on past experience with other similar firearms, I knew the Lynx would be front heavy plus I knew 12 gauge shotguns in general have a fair amount of recoil.  Both of these could be addressed by installing a C&H Mercury Recoil Suppressor.  I use the model 100785 as I know it will slide down the buffer tube of an M4 given the suppressor measures 7/8″ x 5″.  You wouldn’t use this in a normal AR because the buffer tube would have the buffer and spring inside.  However, in our case, an AK does not use the buffer tube so that means we can do whatever we want.  I ordered by unit from MPC Sports, where I have bought them in the past.

I’ve used these a number of times over the years in shotguns and rifles to add weight to the rear and to reduce the recoil.  This last part is interesting.  Basically you have a 7/8″ diameter heavy tube that is 5″ long that is hollow.  Inside it is partially filled with liquid mercury and then very tightly sealed — there is no way it is coming out.

What happens is that when the firearm is fired and the rearward motion starts, the mercury liquid sloshes in the tube.   The tube goes back and the mercury partially stays in place until it is hit by the front of the tube.  This helps to split the recoil impulse into two parts – the initial impulse and then when the mercury hits.

If you can’t afford a mercury buffer you could always fill the rear 5-6″ with bird shot and then cap it with a thick layer of epoxy.

The Mil-Spec six position buffer tube is a straight forward unit made by Expo Arms and I bought it from Primary Arms.  You will still need to get the castle nut and end plate of your choice.  Primary Arms, Brownells and Palmetto are all good places to check.  I really do not recall where I got the castle nut and end plate I used on this project – they were in a parts bin.

Installation is very simple because all you need to do is epoxy it into the buffer tube.  I would recommend scuffing the tube with a bit of sand paper so the epoxy can stick well and then spray down the supressor and the inside of the buffer tube with brake cleaner.

Not all epoxies are up to the task.  I’d recommend Brownell’s Acra-Glas liquid epoxy for this (not their gel version).  I use 10cc syringes to meter out 4 parts resin to 1 part hardener.  I mixed up and used 4 batches so 16 cc of resin and 4 cc of hardener.  Make sure you stir it completely.  The stuff has a long pot like so really mix it well.

I secured the buffer tube in my vise and made sure it was vertical.  Next, I poured a bit down in the tube first – just enough to put a thin layer at the bottom and inserted the suppressor into the tube and poured in the remaining epoxy.  It will need to sit and cure for 2-4 hours before you can handle it.  I keep an eye on the remnants in the mixing cup to see when it is hard enough to handle as the temperature will affect how long it takes.  Note – it needs to cure 24 hours to reach full strength and you’d want that before firing the weapon and subjecting the epoxy to stress.

At any rate, after pouring, wipe off any epoxy you may get on the tube.  Brake cleaner on a rag will help until it cures.  After that, it would likely require sanding to remove so be sure it is clean before you walk away.

So with that done and curing I moved on to the grip.

Installing the Ronin’s Grips AK-12 Grip

The Lynx comes with a basic pistol grip but I wanted to use one of my AK-12 grips.  These are very ergonomic and feel really good to me.  I wear an XL-size glove and both the size and angle work for me.

I replaced the small 5mm bolt with one of our 6mm alloy bolts and also used a 6mm grip nut that I had in my parts bin to secure the grip in place.

In the same manner as other AKs, the grip nut sits in the square hole behind the trigger guard and then the grip sits on the other side and the bolt pulls them together with the receiver sandwiched in the middle.

Adding a Chaos Saiga 12 Apollo 12 Extended Rail

The Lynx can use Saiga handguards so you have a lot of options.  I like the look and feel of Chaos rails.  I had one on my Vepr and decided to go with the Apollo 12 Extended M-LOK Rail for the Lynx.

Installation is pretty easy.  You will need to remove the original sights though.  A small punch can be used to drift out the rear sight and either a small wrench or pliers can be used to unscrew and remove the front sight.  I’d recommend having a Zip Loc bag or something to store these parts in just in case.

Unscrew the four screws on the sides to split the rail system into its two halves.  The bottom slides into position.  Use their screw to secure the front.  Use Blue Loc-Tite on it too.   In the rear by the receiver is a set screw.  Back it out, apply Blue Loc-tite and then screw it down.  It will push on the barrel lock the handguard into position so it will not wobble.

With the base secure you can install the top half when ready.  Notice how I said that.  What I found is that the bolt carrier must be installed and the dust cover installed before you install the top half.  So, I went ahead lubricated the shotgun and closed it up before I installed the top rail.  This also brings to light that the screws will need to be removed to gain access to inside the shotgun for cleaning.  Time will tell how well that works out.  If it drives me nuts, I’ll cut the rail off flush with the gas tube seat.  Right now though, I sure like how it positions my red dot.

Lubricating the Lynx

As mentioned above, I had to install the bolt carrier assembly and dust cover to then finalize the rail.  I am doing something different with the Lynx.  A month back I started using Super Lube synthetic grease on my Uzi and it worked great.  With the Lynx having the heavy parkerization on everything, I used Superlube to grease the rails and all sliding surfaces.  I used a precision oiler with Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic on all of the rotating parts.  Boy did this combination make things operate smoothly!

Installing the M4 Mil-Spec Buffer Tube

By now, the buffer tube with the mercury suppressor was cured enough to be safely installed.   Basically, it is installed the same as on an AR but it is much heavier.  Thread the castle nut all the way to the end of threads, install the end plate and then screw the tube into the Rifle Dynamics stock adapter.  Note need to buy the end plate and the castle nut – they typically do not come with a buffer tube.

When you are almost out of space to screw the buffer tube because of the end plate riding in the groove, stop, push the end plate into the adapter and tighten the castle nut down using your favorite tool.

While I used the above pictured wrench, I’ve since switched to the Magpul wrench and swear by.  It’s the best wrench I’ve found for stock work including castle nuts.

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In the next photo you can see that I am using a end plate with sling loops plus you can see that I staked the castle nut.  Because of the recoil of the 12 gauge, I created a small divot with a center punch – this is known as “staking”.  It will mechanically lock the castle nut in place.   I could have put Blue Loc-tite on the castle nut but I went old school.

I then used a cotton swab and some Brownells Oxpho-Blue to cold blue the bare metal to a black color and then wiped it down with WD-40.

Installing the Magpul ACS Stock with Limbsaver Pad

I like the Midway ACS stocks.  They are comfortable, have a locking lever to keep them from wobbling and have storage compartments you can either really use for storage or fill with epoxy and bird shot to further adjust the weight and balance of a rifle.

As luck would have it, I don’t have a photo of the stock before installation but will tell you that the one challenge is to lift the locking pin.  Magpul gives you a dummy cartridge to help with this but I made a tool to hook the pin and lift easy as can be.

Now one thing that is nice with hard recoiling firearms is a decent recoil pad.  I’ve long been a fan of Limbsaver pads and they make a model specific for the Magpul ACS, ACS-L, CTR, MOE, STR and UBR.  It’s nice and thick and provides a lot of cushion especially compared to the original pad it replaces.

 

 

I purchased the Magpul ACS for Mil-Spec buffer tubes from Primary Arms and the recoil pad off Amazon.

Installing the JMac RRD-4C 12 Brake

If you want to tame recoil, a good brake is essential.  Justin McMillion and his company JMAC Customs make some great brakes so reaching out to him for a brake made perfect sense.  He recommended their RRD-4C “12” brake.

The first thing I noticed was it’s size – it’s huge and badassed looking.  Installation is a breeze.  Unscrew the thread protector from the Lynx to expose its threads.  Screw on the jam nut as far as you can and then thread on the brake as far as you can.  Back it off enough that the brake is flat and the chambers are venting up as shown below.  Then tighten the jam nut up against the back of the brake to lock it in place.

Installing the Crossfire Red Dot and American Defense Quick Release Lever

My go to red dot these days is the excellent Vortex Crossfire unit.  It’s small and only has a 2 MOA dot.  It comes configured for an AR but you can remove the tall base and use the supplied shorter one for a lower mount.  Recently, I started using American Defense bases  because they have a solid quick release lever so you can remove the red dot quickly.  The base required is the AD-T1-L STD.

You just unscrew the four little screws on the bottom  of the optic, apply Blue Loctite on the screws and attach it to the new base.  Not hard at all!  The results are totally worth it.

Caution about eBay:  Watch out for cheap counterfeit products on eBay.  I would recommend buying the optic and mount from a reputable dealer to make sure you are getting the real deal.  The cheap knock offs just do not hold up.

Streamlight TLR-2 HL G

I installed a small 5 slot Magpul M-Lok aluminum rail section on the bottom front of the handguard to hold a Streamlight TLR-2 HL G 800 lumen light and green laser.  I have found they hold up remarkably well.  In this age of cheap Chinese products, I would recommend buying a light that will work when you need it most.

To mount it, follow the directions with the light to install the key for the Picatinny rail.  It comes with several and then it just screws onto the mount with the thumbscrew,

Caution about eBay:  Watch out for cheap counterfeit products on eBay.  I would recommend buying the Streamlight from a reputable dealer to make sure you are getting the real deal.  The cheap knock offs just do not hold up.

The End Result

I am very happy with how it turned out.  The balance is great and the red dot is located just right – when I bring the shotgun up – the dot is right where I need it.  I definitely need to take it to the range and like how it turned out.  By the way, the magazine you see is the new SDS 10 round unit.

I hope you enjoyed these blog posts.  There will be more to come 🙂


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon to buy something.   With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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The Lynx 12 – Post 2 of 3: Disassembly and Observations

In the first post, I documented my favorable first impressions of the SDS Lynx 12 shotgun.  After posting, at least 10 gentlemen have come forward stating how much they like their Lynx 12 shotguns and nobody reported any problems.  In this post, I’ll write about taking the shotgun apart in order to install my planned customizations, which will be in the next post.

Call me old school, but the first thing I did was to read the manual 🙂  The next thing was to hose down the hole shotgun and wipe it down to remove all the odd smelling rust preservative.  I really didn’t care for the tacky feel to be there while working on it.  Once removed, I sprayed on Rem Oil to prevent rust while I was working on it.  Rem Oil is nice and thin and doesn’t have too much of a smell.  It’s my go to for situations like this.  If you do remove the preservative, just be sure to apply whatever oil or rust inhibitor you prefer.

Removing the Dust Cover and Recoil Spring

The dust cover comes off by pushing the release latch (the little button that sticks up) on the recoil spring and pushing the whole assembly forward while lifting the dust cover up and off the receiver.

You’ll notice I have the Lynx sitting in my Tipton vise.  I’ve had it for years and it really makes working on long arms way easier.

With the dust cover off, you can get a good look at the recoil spring  assembly.  Some guys will call this the operating spring or the return spring but basically it absorbs the energy of the bolt carrier assembly coming back after firing and then when the spring has enough energy, it pushes the bolt carrier assembly forward to then cock the trigger and strip a round off the magazine and go back into battery.

Compared to a regular AKM, you will notice the release latch and the rubber buffer assembly at the rear.  I find the use of a buffer interesting.  Normally the spring should absorb the energy and my bet is that the designers put it there in case the user either adjusts the gas regulator such that the system is over-gassed and the carrier comes back with more force than the spring alone can handle or they put it there just in case of a round that generates more pressure than what the spring can handle but the gas regulator doesn’t exactly have the right setting — imagine needing a gas setting of “3.5”. At the third position there is too much gas but at 4 there is too little.  I have little doubt it is a good idea.  I’d recommend to keep a spare buffer on hand and inspect the one in the shotgun regularly.  It ought to last a long time under most conditions but the buffers are dirt cheap.

To remove it, push forward on the rear part that normally protrudes from the dust cover.  It should slide forward in the slot that holds it on the trunnion until it is free and you can then lift up and pull back to remove the assembly from the bolt carrier and shotgun overall.

You will also note that the designers made the recoil spring assembly two parts – the rear is a tube like an RPK or older milled AKs with one spring.  There is then an additional cover that rides on that rear tube and normally closes the otherwise enlarged ejection port in the dust cover.  In front of that is then a floating spring.

Removing the Bolt Carrier Assembly and Looking Inside the Receiver

First, remove the bolt carrier assembly.  It slides to the rear of the receiver and can then be lifted up out of the receiver.  Note – it must be fully to the rear or the receiver’s guide rails will retain it.

It’s interesting how the bolt carrier is short.  In the gas tube, which is pinned in place, is a disc, that some call the “gas puck” or just “puck” which is the gas piston.  Unlike an AKM, the gas tube is held in place by the gas tube seat (it reminds me of a rear sight block in a way) that would need it’s retaining pin to be punched out to be removed.  When you tilt the shotgun forward and back, you can hear the puck moving back and forth in the gas tube.  I didn’t take the gas tube assembly apart but it looks straight forward enough.

The carrier is holding a really massive bolt.  It operates very much like any AK – the bolt head has a cam that travels through a slot in the carrier that in turn rotates it into or out of battery.

By moving the bolt head to the rear, the cam can be rotates out of the slot and the bolt head then removed from the carrier.

Look at the size of the extractor!

Interestingly, the firing pin has a spring pushing it backward compared to the floating firing pins you normally find in an AK rifle.  In this photo you can see the tail of the firing pin pushed out the back of the bolt body by the spring.

Looking down in the receiver was a very typical looking fire control group.  Note, it has been tweaked slightly to work in a Saiga or Lynx so if you want to replace the fire control group you will need to either buy one made for the the Saiga or Lynx or you will need to make some modifications.

Normally I replace the fire control group (FCG) with a US made set but the Lynx’s trigger is surprisingly decent.  Not great, but decent.  It was gritty from the parkerizing and lack of use but I figured grease and time could cure that.  I may well swap it out in the future but time will tell.

The Pistol Grip

Now I did run into one surprise that I did not expect – see the grip nut below?  I figured it would be a regular AKM nut meaning threaded for a 6mm diameter x 1.0mm pitch screw.  It’s not.  I did not expect this but the grip screw is actually smaller than an AK’s.  The screw is actually 5mm diameter x 106mm long.  I did not bother finding out the pitch by the way because it would not be staying!  Instead, I focused on the hole in the receiver – it was the same size as a normal AKM grip nut.  Whew – Problem solved.  I would replace it  with a beefier AKM nut and one of our high-strength alloy grip screws (I’ll detail that in the next post).

To remove the grip, there is a blade screw head on the base.  Simply unscrew it and remove the grip and the grip nut.

Removing the Buttstock

The plastic buttstock is held in place by two machine screws on the top of the rear trunnion.  The rear trunnion is an AK-74 forked style with the front portion open.  The stock with its lightning cuts on the side harks to the 74 also other than having a recoil pad thicker than what you would find on a 74.

Given how front heavy the shotgun felt, I was not surprised to find out that the buttstock was actually hollow.  The Chinese installed threaded inserts for strength.  I think that is commendable actually.  The fit of the buttstock to the receiver is both well done and very tight.  This is what will bear the recoil – the screws are just there to hold it together.

Because of the tight fit, I secured the rifle in my vise after removing the selector lever.  I then used a wood dowel and hammer to tap on the lip of the stock to push it backwards out of the receiver.  It really didn’t take much force to get it out.  For those of you who have tried to get an old varnished AK-47 stock out of a receiver, you know exactly what I mean and the Lynx requires just a small fraction of that.

The Forearm

The sporting looking forearm is held in place by a 5mm diameter x 11mm long screw.  Unscrew it and push the handguard forward past the gas tube and then pull it off the barrel.  Mine was a tight fit so I did need to pull it off the barrel and not just lift.  I did use a small piece of wood and a hammer to get it started out of the receiver.

Done

At this point, I had the shotgun all the way apart other than the muzzle cap.  I left that on to protect the threads while I worked.  The next blog post will detail the customizations and a few surprises that happened along the way.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.

The Lynx 12 – Post 1 of 3: Unboxing and First Impressions

For some reason, I never really got into the Saigas when they were the hot conversion ticket. I guess it was because I was mainly working on rifles and had a Vepr 12. At any rate, when I heard from Paul Popov that SDS was importing a Saiga-12 clone known as the Lynx 12 from China where it was made in the same factory that made the Type 56 AKs.  Even better, it did not need the conversion and the street price was about $499, I contacted Scott Igert, my friend who owns Modern Antique Firearms in Benton Harbor, MI, to order me one.

In short order the shotgun arrived and then promptly sat idle as I was busy with a ton of other projects. Scott nudged me along to take a look as he was curious about the Lynx 12 also as were clients of his. That prompted me to get my act in gear and take a close look at the shotgun by taking it apart to install a bunch of modifications I had planned.

The first step was to give it a careful external exam. The Lynx had a nice heavy uniform dark parkerized finish – probably a manganese “park” given the color.  There was some type of preservative on it that had the most interesting smell.  I have no way to describe it other that to say it did not smell like the typical cosmoline-ish anti-corrosion coatings I was used to.  Note, parkerization does not prevent rust but what it does do is create a textured surface that oil, preservatives or even weapons finishes can “grab” hold of an stay in place.  For example, when I build an AK, I have found that abrasive blasting, followed by manganese parkerization and then Norrell’s Molyresin is a remarkably durable finishing process.  By the way, I have a post on how to do make and apply your own manganese parkerization.

The rivets were pretty good – in a few cases the domes were flatter than others, which is me nit picking, but they all were sitting nice and snug against the sheet metal.  Rivets are pretty amazing and result in strong attachments of the forged trunnions to the sheet metal as long as they are formed properly and the Lynx’s rivets are solid.

I found it interesting that the front trunnion sits on top of the sheet metal receiver.  The fitment was pretty good.

There were reports of early models having sharp edges but I did not see any.  All edges and the parkerized finish were well done.

I did notice that the rear stock screw as a bit chewed up by whomever installed the rear stock.  Normally you see this when someone uses a screw driver blade that is too small.  Not too bad and since I planned on replacing the rear stock, I really wasn’t worried about it.

The selector lever was noticeably loose.  On most AK rifles, it takes a bit of effort to move the lever between the safe and fire positions.  The lever on the Lynx moves very easily.  I’ll bend the lever slightly or use a center punch to increase the depth of the detent.  Again, not a big worry.

Because the shotgun is brand new and the fire control group and the inside of the receiver are all parkerized, the action was pretty rough.  This was to be expected – the parts need to wear in.  I knew from experience that cleaning and better lubrication would help.

The muzzle cover was easy to remove and threaded nicely.  It is threaded to use Saiga chokes and brakes.

The dust cover has an additional retainer spring and pin that you do not see on most AKMs to hold the dust cover in place.  Notice the attention to detail that the retaining button is shaped to allow the dust cover to clear it better.

A nicely done optics side rail is already installed and begging to be used.

It’s a good thing that is there because I really think you will want to run a red dot either via a scope mount or on a front rail.  The Lynx’s sights are to the front and rear of the gas tube.  The rear has a dovetail and can be drifted with a pin punch to the left or right.  The front sight is threaded and can be adjusted up or down.  They definitely are functional but I don’t care for them at all to be perfectly honest.

The gas regulator is pretty slick and how has four settings for you to choose from.  The SDS website describes the settings thusly:

…smallest dot = basically no gas, no rounds will usually cycle when the regulator is on this position. Next smallest dot = “00” buckshot, high velocity rounds and slugs. Next to largest dot = all things in between your results and field testing will be required to see what your individual shotgun will run in this setting. Largest dot = birdshot and other lower powered ammunition.

You’ll notice it has an AK-74 looking buttstock but it is actually hollow and very light.  It’s nicely formed and installed but the net result is that the shotgun is light overall but very front-heavy.  I planned to replace the buttstock, grip and forearm from the start and I will describe what was one and why in future posts in this series.

It uses Saiga magazines also.  One five round mag comes with the shotgun and SDS now sells 10 round magazines also that you can readily find.  It’s actually harder to find spare five round SDS-brand magazines right now than the 10 round units.

By the way, if you are interested about how it shoots, I haven’t had a chance to take it out yet.  In researching the shotgun and how durable it was, I talked to Paul Popov and he has 350 rounds through his with no signs of trouble.  I also talked to Justin McMillion at JMAC Customs and they have put through about 500 rounds also with no problems showing up.  Here is a great overview video from Justin and his wife Ashley:

To sum it all up, I was pretty impressed with my initial just out of the box assessment.  I’m certainly not done though as I bought the Lynx specifically to customize and blog about.  The custom Lynx 12 blog series will have two more posts – one about disassembly and then one with the customizations I made.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon to buy something.   With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


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How to Remove Old Cosmoline and Grease or Even Free Up Rusty Parts The Easy Way

We’ve all had parts come in with really dried out preservative on it such as grease or cosmoline.  I bought some 100 year old khukuri blades that were coated in dried out grease and realized this was a great time to take some photos.  There’s a way to get all this crud off very easily – most will practically wipe off!

I learned the following trick years ago after a friend was worried I would blow myself up using gas, brake cleaner, etc.  In hindsight I must admit it was risky but I rationalized it because I needed to get the parts clean – this is not only effective but also way safer.

Take a 5 gallon pail with a sealable lid on it.  In the photos you see a basic Ace Hardware plastic bucket with it’s lid that has a waterproof gasket.

I first learned about this years ago for firearms and it is a cleaner known as Ed’s Red and I’ve used it ever since.  The formula was developed and shared by a gentleman named “Ed Harris” and it works great for dissolving grease, cosmoline and even penetrating rusty parts.

The basic formula is:

  • 1 part Dexron III or better
  • 1 part deodorized kerosene
  • 1 part mineral spirits
  • 1 part acetone

I use it over and over, which is why I recommended the lid.  I’ve been using this bucket for probably 3-5 years now.  If it gets really gross or seems to stop working then I will change it but it’s fine so far.

So, I set the blades in the ATF and liberally coated the sides and let it sit.  I periodically would reverse the blades so they could be immersed.  If they were smaller parts, I’d drop them in there and let them sit for a few days.

What I wold so each time when I turned them was to rub the blades down and try and get the softened/dissolved grease off.  A lot of it would wipe right off with no scrubbing.

So here they are a couple of days later simply wiped down.  I left a thin film of ATF on them to reduce the odds of rust but all the old dried grease is gone.

When I am done, I put the lid back on and move the pail out of the way.  I do keep wet parts out of the cleaner as I don’t want to contaminate it with water but other than that, I’ve soaked all kinds of greasy, oily, rusty, dirty parts in this.  The crud settles to the bottom of the pail over time.  I’ve learned that if I stir it up there is a lot of debris.  If it gets too bad, it will be time for a new batch.

I mentioned it in passing but this is also great for penetrating rusty parts so you can take them apart.  I can’t begin to guess what all I have soaked in this bucket over the years but it sure includes gun parts, blades, rusty car parts, etc.  It’s a huge time saver and I hope it helps you out as well.

P.S.  If you want to read more on Ed’s formula, click here for his original article that is in the public domain.


If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.