Category Archives: Reviews

A Chaos Rail on a FM-AK47-21 Vepr Rocks!

When the government announced they were going to ban the further import of Molot firearms, I jumped and bought one of the Fime FM-AK47-21 side folding AK-47 Veprs.

The rifle was absolutely awesome except for one regard – I really did not like the ribbed RPK handguard. Now this is the handguard on the Russian RPks and the ribs help with cooling and moving the hand away from the surface of the handguard — the design is genuinely thought out … but I do not like the feel. It’s as simple as that.

With that in mind, I started digging on options. On one hand I could make a new polymer set based on a mint RPK handguard set I picked up along the way. After a while, I changed my mind as the time and cost to create the molds didn’t make a lot of business sense as the Veprs weren’t going to be imported and demand would presumably be low and I would not recover the investment.

So, I researched other options and a firm I didn’t know much about kept popping up – Chaos, Inc. They made a well regarded handguard that looked great to me and reports on the feel and quality were very good. An important design point is that it connects like a handguard and doesn’t clamp anything on the barrel to transfer heat. That was a beef I had with the Midwest Industries rail design I tried years ago. It required the installation of a clamp on the barrel.

At any rate, I decided on the Chaos Apollo FM11L Keymod handguard. By the way, Chaos does not list on their website that this FM11L will fit the FM-AK47-21 side folder so I called them. The guy I talked to said they would take a return if it didn’t fit and I didn’t beat it up. I was pretty sure it would fit so I went ahead and ordered it.

The rail arrived about a week later and decided to install it when time permitted. The following is a quick overview of the steps required:

1] Make sure your rifle is unloaded! I can’t stress this enough.

2] Push in the dust cover retainer at the rear and remove the cover.

3] Remove the operating rod and the bolt carrier group.

4] You will need to rotate the gas tube retaining lever to remove the gas tube. Now this thing is on incredibly tight. I thought Zastava had very tight levers but they have nothing on Molot. You will either need non-marring pliers or a polymer or wood punch to swing the lever up clockwise until the gas tube assembly can lift out.

5] On the right side of the lower handguard retainer, you will see a small lever laying parallel with the barrel. It will need to be rotated 180 degrees towards the muzzle and this is another incredibly tight fit. I had to use stout needle nose pliers in order to rotate it. Once rotated, you can slide the handguard retainer forward. You may find you need to tap it a bit with a rubber mallet – I did.

6] Now, you need to remove the gas tube cover and this is one of the questions I get asked most frequently. The cover is a semi-circle and rotates out of the semi-circular shaped retainers. Clamp the forged steel end (not the tubular end or you will crush it) and firmly rotate the cover. You may find it turns easier clockwise or counter-clockwise and either way is fine. Rotate it 180 degrees either way and then you can pull it away from the tube.

7] Next up is to install the Apollo FM11 lower. This is where their engineering prowess really shows. Their rail is two parts so remove the three hex screws from each side and set the upper half to the side for the moment.

8] Now unscrew the bottom screws and slide the internal aluminum part backwards out of the way. This part will actually slide into the handguard retainer and lock the unit into place. This is why there is a slot for the retainer. Look at the fitment of the parts – they thought this out. Be sure to screw in the set screws also to lock things in place.

9] For the next part, you install the lower by putting the rear tab into the front of the receiver just the same as any AK-style handguard. Now the front requires you to get the retainer in the right place to nestle into the lower. Get the angle right and slide the internal aluminum retainer part into the handguard retainer and screw the internal part back together. The angle must be right so if you can’t get that internal insert to slide into place, move the handguard’s front up and down until it does. Then swing the handguard retainer lever back into position – it will be a tight fit so tap it into place with a rubber mallet. It would not take a ton of pressure – if it does, check fitment. Over the years I have read guys put a ton of pressure on the levers and snap them – the pressure required is firm and you should see movement as you tap the lever into place. They key is tapping and not trying to do one big “mongo smash” hit to rotate the lever. Once done, the lower should be absolutely rock solid – mine sure is.

10] I then installed the gas tube. Nothing attaches to the gas tube so you can remove or install it as needed. I then used my rubber mallet to tap the catch lever back into position.

11] I then installed the gas tube cover by lining up the holes and installing the screws.

At this point it is done. I installed a Vortex Sparc II nice and low on the rail. I like the cheekweld when I rotate the cheekpiece into position. It does NOT co-witness with the iron sights but I really didn’t care about that – I can remove the sight real fast if I ever need to.

I really, really like the fit and feel of this rail. My side folder can lock folded. I did not need to change anything to support the folder.

Here is the end result:

I hope this helps you out!

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How to upgrade Surefire M951 Weapons Light with a $10-20 LED Reflector

I really like Surefire weapons lights but they can be very expensive.  If you haven’t noticed it, there are some great deals on new in the box Surefire M951 weapons lights on eBay.  Now hear’s the thing – they are new old stock – they have the old Xenon bulbs with them but these things are often unused or lightly used and include the picatinny rail mount and pressure pad.  Here’s the thing – you can upgrade them to an LED for often less than $20 for both a brighter and longer lasting light.

To find the Surefire M951, the trick I found is to search for one of the many “kit” packages that are for sale.  The light I purchased was a “Surefire M951 Kit02” to be exact.

The M951, and a number of other Surefire lights used the P60 Xenon bulb.  There are a ton of LED upgrades out there and I opted for one from Amazon.  Here is the LED reflector I used – I just had to remove the external spring (it pulls right off) and put it in my M951.  We’ll see how it holds up with use but so far it is wickedly bright:

Surefire sells replacement heads for the M951 but they are pricey – $45 and up.  It held up fine on both a 9mm and 5.56 AR.  I eventually sold the light as it was fairly large and heavy.  It was a cool project though!

Now here is an automated real-time search of eBay for “Surefire M951 Kit” be sure to check what they are selling and that the seller is reputable.  You’ll notice some sellers get sneaky with putting words in their listing so stuff that is not legit shows up such as cheap third-party flashlights, accessories, etc.

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What is a Ferrule on Yugo and AK Rifles?

A ferrule is a metal end cap found on some wood grips and handguards to protect the end grain of the wood from being hammered and splitting open.  They were used on different country’s weapons and are usually not interchangeable between countries.  For example, Bulgarian and Yugo ferrules are different.

Near and dear to me are the metal ferrules on Yugoslav / Zastave wood lower handguards.  The following photo shows a M92 lower and the black metal cap is the ferrule.  This ferrule does not fit everything Yugo – just the M70, M85/92, and M77.  The M72 and M76 are unique sizes.


You have three options when you need a ferrule:  1) Find a used one and this is real hard – try posting in the Marketplace of and see if they have one.  2) Buy a replica ferrule from us or 3) Simply pry the old ferrule off, put it on the new handguard and the squeeze the tabs shut again with a pair of pliers.

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Note if you are putting it on one of our plastic handguards either just set it on it with the ears closed or glue it in place.  Absolutely do not try to squeeze the ears shut — the little metal divots will not dig into our plastic and you risk snapping the handguard tabs.  Again, either slide it on or glue it in place with something like rubber glue or Goop that you can later remove if you want.  Epoxy works too but it is pretty permanent.

For example, I just slid the ferrule on the M70 bulged handguard in the next photo.

I hope this helps!

The following link is to the page on our web store with our various Yugoslav / Zasatav rifle and pistol furniture offerings:

What the M92 Looks Like After All the Mods

This shows what the M92 looks like today.  I haven’t had time to go to the range yet but the “feel” is fantastic in terms of weight, balance and length. CNC Warrior nailed the folding arm brace.  Wow – how cool it is!

Here is a list of the modifications made:

  1. CNC Warrior Folding Arm Brace
  2. CNC Warrior 4 Piece Brake
  3. CNC Warrior Detent Pin
  4. CNC Warrior Picatinny Rail Scope Mount
  5. Ronin’s Grips M92 Ferrule Cut Handguard Set
  6. Ronin’s Grips Bulgy ARM-9 Pistol Grip
  7. Ronin’s Grips M92 Dust Cover Quick Takedown Pin
  8. Vortex Sparc Red Dot with the Low Mount

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Vortex Optics SPC-402 Sparc II Red Dot Scope with Vortex Optics Hat (Colors May Vary)

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How to Install Ronin’s Grips M92 Handguards

This is another long overdue step by step guide.  We have been selling M92 handguards for over two years and people ask about how to install them so let’s try and take this step by step.


1.  Open the dust cover so the gas tube can be removed.

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2.  Take a look at the upper portion.  The gas tube cover is actually a semi circle held in a groove formed by sheet metal.  To remove the cover, secure the forged metal end of the tube (NOT THE SHEET METAL END OR IT WILL BEND) in a vise or use an open end wrench.  Turn the cover 180 degrees until it faces the opposite way and it will come right out of the retainer.

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3.  See the metal clip in the gas tube cover?  You will want to move that clip to our gas tube cover as it helps secure it in place.





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4.  Next, look at the lower handguard.  In the front of the guard on the left side you will see a small lever that needs to be rotated inward.  Once that is done, the handguard retainer can be slid forward.

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4.  The lower handguard is then pulled forward and down to be removed.

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5.  I am asked regularly about what a ferrule is.  Folks, that black metal cap on the end of the lower is a ferrule.  It protects the end grain of the wood from being split open.  We sell a handguard that can use a ferrule if you like the looks of it plus we sell a version that does not need the ferrule.  It is entirely up to you.  I sometimes use the ferrule to accent whatever color handguard I am working with – for example, Dark Olive Drab to Dark Russian Plum.


6.  This only applies if you buy one of our handguards that uses the ferrule – you can use your existing ferrule by using a screwdriver to bend the tabs open on the receiver stub and then working the ferrule backward and off the wood lower handguard.  You can then glue it to our’s or even leave it loose.





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7.  When you install our lower handguard, you reverse the above steps.  We sell optional shims in case you need to tighten the fit.  The example shim here is a special orange material we tested and now we use a special hard black rubber.  You can buy our shims or make your own.  In either case, your goal is to add just enough material to get the retaining lever to turn down firmly and lock up the lower handguard.  Because AKs can vary, you may find that you need to either add or subtract material so take a careful look at your lower retainer and decide which way you need to move before you go sanding, cutting, filing, etc.


So that’s about it.  The following are photos of the M92 with the new ferrule cut handguards installed.

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If you’d like to learn more or order our handguards, please visit our online store’s Yugo handguard section at:


Note, the following is a video a fellow did showing how he removes and installs M92 handguards in general.  I think this might help some of you who want to see the steps in more detail:

Installing the CNC Warrior Picatinny Rail Scope Mount for the M92 PAP Pistol

Another great accessory for the Yugo M92 or M85 PAP is the slick picatinny rail kit that CNC Warrior sells.  This thing is a breeze to install and is the best means I have seen for adding an optic to the M92. Because the screws are inserted from the rail side, it is superior to other products that require the screws to come in from underneath the dust cover and risk being hit by the bolt carrier.

All you need is the pistol, a drill and some cutting oil to do the installation.


1.  This is the top thick hinge of the M85/M92 dust cover.  See the faint circles?  Those are the spot welds and they are very hard!  Do not drill into them!  The new CNC Warrior mount has four holes and you only need to use two of them.  The reason there is four is so you can pick the best two that get you around/away from the spot welds.  Please note that my rail is only silver because it was a brand new design and they hadn’t applied a finish yet.  If you order one, you will get a black rail!

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2.  Here you can see my fancy high tech tools.  My Ryobi drill, Tap Magic cutting oil to lubricate the drills and the taps.  Note, you will need to buy a tap handle if you do not have one.  Do not take the short cut of trying to start the tap with a regular socket or open end wrench.  You really want the tap to be firmly held so you can tap the threads at a right angle to the surface of the hinge.  Also, see that little black cylinder?  That is a drill guide that you put into the hole you select to guide the drill bit to the right place on the hinge.  Be sure to use the cutting oil!

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3.  As an aside, I blasted the mount and then sprayed on flat black Molyresin and baked it.  You’d never know it came to me unfinished.

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4.  After you clean up the chips and are ready to do the final screwing of the mount, be sure to apply Blue Loctite so it does not come loose.

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That’s it!  The mount is solid and it holds my Vortex Sparc red dot just great.  Note our quick takedown pin to make it easy to remove the cover and get the optic out of the way.


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Ronin’s Grips Quick Takedown pin for the M92 dust cover

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Installing the CNC Warrior M92 Folding Arm Brace – So Sweet!!!!!!


Next up on the agenda was to install the CNC Warrior folding M92 arm brace.  This thing is wickedly well done and if you get it plus the optional installation kit, just about anyone comfortable with using a drill can do it.

The following is a quick photo of the installation kit – you will need a hand drill and some cutting oil – I like Tap Magic but just about any oil will do vs. running dry and overheating stuff.  You do not want to work harden the sheet metal of the receiver — use cutting oil and keep it cool!

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1.  Make sure your weapon is securely mounted and that you can have ready access to the rear.  The PAP buttstock drill kit has this handy little jig block to help you locate where to drill the small starter hole.

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2.  With the jig in place, put in some cutting oil and drill the hole.  Note, I am just using a plain Ryobi 18volt hand drill.  The big bit is 3/8″ and I think 12 volt or better could do the job.  The small hole will help you locate and drill with the bigger 3/8″ bit.

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3.  Be sure to read the instructions and the caution to go real slow with the 3/8″ bit because if you try to go fast, your bit is apt to grab and thread straight into the receiver.  If this happens then you can’t drill the hole as the bit is grabbed and goes in like a powered screw with a boatload of torque.  Now, I did make this mistake but I knew how to get out – I grabbed a 3/8″ cobalt end mill, checked it in my drill and cut the big offending tabs right out of the hole.  If you run into this, you would need to either get an end mill bit or try using various Dremel bits to remove what is helf.

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4.  My next steps were to use a deburring tool to make sure I didn’t leave anything nasty and sharp in the hole waiting to cut me!  I also vacuumed out the inside of the pistol and made sure it was clean.


5.  The folder is connected to the receiver via a threaded block that is inserted into the receiver and you then thread the large allen screw into it.  Be sure to line things up and apply Blue Loctite so it will not come loose over time.

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That’s all there was to it!!  This is a very well done piece of gear guys.  The folder mechanism is solid and the brace feels great either on the shoulder or on the arm plus you can fold it out the way.  Note the quick release sling swivel.  I used one of my Troy swivels – the folder has the hole to use one but it is up to you as to whether you want one or not.


One last comment – I am keeping the printed copy of the ATF approval letter (that comes with the brace) in my case with the M92 to show anyone who asks that the brace is not a buttstock and this the M92 is not a SBR.  You might want to do the same.

By the way, for any of you wondering why I am using all these CNC Warrior parts on this build – the answer is simple – they make really good stuff and this is my personal M92.  I only want solid reliable stuff on it.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the AdNow advertisements.  EBay and Amazon you need to buy something, AdNow pays for each link you visit – no purchase needed.  Doing so will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Removing the M92 PAP Muzzle Cap and Installing the Detent Pin

The M92 PAP pistol is brought in neutered with a muzzle cap and no detent spring.  With some careful Dremel work, some cold blue solution and a bit of patience, it is really easy to restore the pistol back to it’s original threaded muzzle state


1.  Look at the muzzle of the PAP
M92 and you will see a big spot weld that is holding the muzzle cover on.  Thankfully it is both small and superficial so it can be cut through.

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2.  Now the first step is to secure the pistol so it can’t move around.  I used a wood jawed woodworking vice but you can use whatever you have handy.  If you use a regular vise, be sure to put something over the jaws to protect your M92 from getting all scratched up.



3.  I use my Dremel tool all the time.  These days I am using one of their cordless jobs with two Lithium batteries and I like the EZ Lock bits that make replacing cutting wheels and other tasks a breeze.  Be sure to practice with your Dremel before doing this.  Please don’t go buy a Dremel and try and do this fresh out of the box.  The secret is to make light cuts and not rush.  Let the weight of the tool do the work and carefully guide it and keep it in position.

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4.  Now, I came in from the front and at a slight angle to protect the front sight & gas block combo.  The cap will twist off clock-wise as it is reverse threaded.  Cut a bit and test, cut a bit and test over and over.  If you have a strap wrench or a pipe wrench, that can help with the removal.  Again, remember that this is reverse threaded just like other AKs.  It will loosen by turning clockwise.

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5.  Hidden under that large ugly cap is the big 26 x 1.5mm LH (reverse threaded) muzzle just waiting to have your favorite brake or fake can installed but it would be real cool to get the detent pin working again – wouldn’t it?

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5.  Use a small sanding drum and smooth the block where the weld was and then use the cold bluing solution you like to color the steel while it is fresh and oil free.  I like Brownell’s Oxpho Blue and apply it with a Q-Tip per their instructions.

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6.  CNC Warrior sells a very small kit with the detent pin, spring and cross pin.  The PAP has all the holes there already.  You literally slide in the pin and spring, turn it the right way and then drive in the cross pin, which is a small roll pin.

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7.  I really like the Bulgarian 4 piece Krink brakes and CNC Warrior has great version they have made for the M92.  I pretty much knew I had to go with this brake!  It does a great job reducing muzzle flash and is real high quality.  Now that the detent pin was installed, I just threaded it on until it was where I wanted it and the detent pin engaged fully.

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So that’s all it took!  I hope this helps you with your project.

Stay tuned for more blog posts about the M92.

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon or click one of the advertisements.  It will help us fund continued development of the blog.

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How to Install a Yugo M85 or M92 Dust Cover Quick Takedown Pin from Ronin’s Grips

Years ago, I bought a barreled M92 kit from and assembled it.  I then installed a Stormwerkz rail and a Primary Arms M4-style red dot and the dust cover being attached to the rear sight block really got annoying fast.  After some careful examination, I figured out a quick release pin with a ball bearing detent to hold it in place would really make things easier.  It worked great and I have been selling the pins like crazy for almost two years.  I made a mistake though – I didn’t take step by step photos about how to do the installation and people keep asking for a how-to guide.  Thus, I recently bought a Yugo M92 PAP pistol imported by Century Arms from my good friend Scott Igert, who owns Modern Antique Firearms in Benton Harbor, MI, so that I could do some step by step how-to instructions with a lot of photos for folks.

The work will be done with a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, a few small punches, hammer and a rubber gunsmith block.


1.  Look at the hinge pin/rivet.  On the side opposite the charging handle, you will see a big rivet head.  On the right side, you will see an odd looking head it is actually the rivet just slightly peened over into a concave washer.  It is that side that we will grind the peened over portion off with our Dremel.  By the way, it is really a pin but it has one end peened over like a rivet.  A rivet would swell into the hole and lock everything up – a pin does not.

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2.  If you don’t use a Dremel tool, take a few minutes and do some practice cutting with a cut off wheel.  It has a tendency to scoot around and you need to get a feel for it so you can control it.  Please, please, please – do not take your Dremel out of the box and try to do this for the very first time.  I like the cordless Dremel as I can work anywhere and lately I have become very fond of the EZ Lock bits.  Of course you can use whatever tool you are comfortable with but this step by step explanation should make the work required more clear (I hope).

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3.  If you are still learning, put a couple of pieces of tape with a slit over the pin’s head that is peened into the washer.  With some tape in place, if your hand slips you will be less likely to mar your finish.  Folks, the secret tip is to do very light cuts.  Let the weight of the tool or even less do the work.  Do NOT push down hard or you will snap the bit.  I also rest my hands on any surface that I can to have more control.  You’ll notice I have a rubber gunsmith block to support the pistol – you could use a piece of pine, a hockey puck, or another non-marring surface.  You want the weapon to be stable when you work on it and you will need to lightly tape the hinge pin/rivet free once the head is ground off.  I used pieces of wood for years and years before bought the block – the key is to have the support and use something that will not scratch up your finish.

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4.  You are just removing enough metal get get rid of a small lip on the rivet.  The next two photos show you the slightly concave look I put in the rivet and you can barely see the shaft.  I then used a small pin punch and a tap from a small hammer to get the pin moving.  It will take very little force to get it to move.  If it doesn’t readily move, then you may need to grind it a bit more.  The only thing holding that rivet shaft in place is the peened edge – it is not swollen in the hole.

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5.  This is a photo of the removed rivet and the hinge rivet/pin starting to slide backwards.  I then used a small punch pin to push it out.  The fourth photo shows the original pin and washer so you can see the end result.

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6.  At this point, the dust cover hole is clear but do not try to push the new pin in.  The cover cams shut and it will be needlessly difficult to push the pin in.  For comparison, our pin is shown next to the original.  The pin with a groove in it is something you do not want to lose!  The angled portion is face up towards the dust cover and the round end goes towards the gas tube.  When the dust cover closes, the pin slides forward and holds the gas tube is locked in place.  It’s very simple and does the job just fine.  This locking pin is held in the rear block by the dust cover pin so every time you remove the pin, it can come out.  Just keep track of it each time you clean your M85 / M92 as you will need it.

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7.  Now, to install our quick takedown pin, install the dust cover, lift it up and align the holes.  At this point, there is no pressure and our pin will slide easily into the hole.  When the dust cover is closed, the resulting pressures lock everything in place.  That is why it works so well with hinge mounted picatinny rails.  My favorite these days is the hinge mounted frail from CNC Warrior by way and we’ll right up an installation guide for that as well.

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So that’s it!  Again, the key is to use light pressure when grinding the peened over portion of the original hinge pin/rivet away. Then, install the new pin with the dust cover open so it can readily slide in.

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Dremel 8220-2/28 12-Volt Max Cordless Rotary Tool with 160-Piece Accessory Kit

Features: Can be used with all Dremel accessories and attachments, Quick collet lock for fast accessory changes, One-hour charger for minimal downtime, Comes with reuseable storage case and 160 accessories, Can stand upright or hang on a wall by hook, Ideal for cutting, sanding, polishing, grinding, and carving

List Price: $164.44 USD
New From: $164.44 USD In Stock

Tools That Can Help You Do the M92 Upgrades

In doing this M92, I wanted to use tools that many guys already have or can get without spending a fortune.  I could have used my mill or drill press but I wanted you to see that some simple hand tools are all you need.  The follow are what I used and certainly you can use other tools that work for you.

Dremel Tool with cutoff wheel, abrasive wheel and sanding drum
If you do much gun work, you’ll find a rotary tool to be a huge time saver when used properly.  I have an ancient corded Dremel tool made for Sears plus an 18volt cordless that I use all the time.  You will need some thin cut off wheels for metal, a small abrasive wheel (if you want or do it all with the sanding drum) and a sanding drum.  Because I use my Dremel a lot, I buy the discounted multibit packs when I find them.


Here are the tools at Amazon:

Dremel 8220-1/28 12-Volt Max Cordless Rotary Tool


One thing I would recommend against is buying cheap no-name import bits – they often fall apart or dull real fast.  For the last few years, I have been buying Dremel brand bits off Amazon.  Everything you’ll need is in the below accessory pack:


Dremel 710-05 160 Piece Accessory Kit

The one thing I will say here is to practice before you try to actually work on your new pistol.  I can’t stress this enough – please practice first!! A Dremel can scoot around and chew things up if your hands aren’t supported and you don’t know the “feel” of how to cut things.  So please be sure to do some testing and practice before you go near your pistol.  I’ve been using a Dremel for almost 30 years (literally) and I still get surprised from time to time but I know what to do to minimize bad things from resulting due to my experience.

Hand Drill
You just need a plain jane hand drill.  It could be corded or cordless.  Slower is better to avoid heat build up.  You will need to drill a 3/8″ hole for the arm brace and a #21 hole for the picatinny rail screws.  All the work I did was done with my Ryobi 1/2″ 18volt hand drill that I bought from Home Depot and have gotten a ton of use from over the years.

Tap Handle
If you do not have one already, go get a tap handle from your local hardware store.  You will need it to get a good square grip on the #10 tap if you install the CNC Warrior picatinny rail.  Some guys try to go cheap and use a small wrench but the problem is that you will have a very hard time starting the threading squarely.  Spend a few bucks and get a tap handle.

Irwin 12001 T-Handle 1/4-Inch Capacity Tap Wrench

Good Vise
It really pays to have a good vise.  There are so many options out there but make sure it is secure and that if it has steel jaws, that they are padded with leather, wood, plastic or something else that is relatively soft to protect the finish.  It could be a tool vise or even one of the rifle cleaning and maintenance vises such as Tipton’s.  Just make sure that whatever you use is firmly holding the rifle and can’t slide as you drill.   You could drill it into your work bench or use some clamps on the corners.

Tipton Best Gun Vise

I specifically used one of my woodworking vises that is permanently attached to my work bench for this project.  It is like the following and you must add wood to make the actual jaws hence the screw holes in the side plates of the vise:

IRWIN 226361 6-1/2-Inch Woodworkers Vise

Roll Pin Punches
You could use any punch set but I like pin punches as they have a dimple in the face that goes into the roll spring to help center and drive it.  Note, I have watched guys skip using a punch and just tap in the roll pin with a small hammer directly.  The roll pin punches help but are not mandatory.

Grip 9 pc Roll Pin Punch Set


I’ll skip the photo 🙂  You just need something to tap the pin punch with.

Cutting Oil

In a pinch you can use regular oil but I like to use Tap Magic for lubricating drill buts and also taps.  This helps them run cooler and last longer

Forney 20857 Cutting Fluid, Industrial Pro Tap Magic, 4-Ounces


Cold Blue Solution and QTips

My favorite cold blue is Oxpho Blue liquid from Brownell’s.  There are a lot of other brands out there and guys have told me they like the cold blue solution from Birchwood Casey as well.

Birchwood Casey PSP Gun Blue (3 Ounce)


Deburring tool or Sandpaper

The last tool I would recommend is a deburring tool.  It is very handy for clearing drilled holes of burs.  I used it after I drilled the rear of the receiver for example.

SHAVIV 151-29249 Bonus Pack Deburring Tool Kit for Extra Close Work  with Mango IIB Handle (11 Pieces)

The next posts will be about doing the actual work – I promise 🙂