Category Archives: Care and Maintenance

Firearms Lube Tip – Use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 Oil and The Right Dispenser

I’ve been experimenting with different lubricants for a year now because a lot of the firearm “oils” are 99% marketing and 1% oil at a premium price.  You’ll notice that how to lube a firearm is a religious argument for many and I’m not going to get into that.

After doing a lot of digging, I bought two different types of automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Dexron III and ATF+4) and Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil.  I then loaded up a bunch of squeeze bottles that have needle dispensers on them, labeled each and proceeded to try them out.

Here’s the big secret – they all work.  Of the three, I like the Mobil 1 mainly because it doesn’t have a red color or the smell of transmission fluid.

I’ve now used it to lubricate my AKs, RPK, Uzi, POF-5/MP5 and PTR PDW and am very happy with the results.  It works just fine and a quart will last you forever.

I still prefer Tetra Grease where sliding parts are involved.  As the old saying goes, “if it rotates then oil it.  If it slides, then grease it” has always worked for me though I do admit to reading armorer manuals to see their recommended lube points.

[amazonjs asin=”B0014VVNZU” locale=”US” title=”Tetra Gun 004B1I Gun Grease 1-Ounce Blister”]

The Right Dispensers Make a Huge Difference!

Regardless of the oil you use, having the right dispenser really helps.  Growing up, we used engine oil out of the tried and true cans with the finger squeeze pumps.  I really don’t use that type of dispenser on firearms but do when I work on cars and what not where a large volume is needed.

With firearms, you’ll notice that you often need to get the right lube to the right place.  In the shop, I use the squeeze bottles.  The dispenser pens are something I take in the field as they don’t leak and will not make a huge mess if crushed — let me assure you the bottles will do just that so that is why they stay in the shop.

You can get both of these dispensers very easily off Amazon.  Be sure to read reviews as some brands leak and others don’t.  The ones I am listing next are what I currently use.  I use the 25 gauge needle especially for reaching down into fire control groups and lubricating pins and their attached parts such as triggers, hammers, selectors, etc.

[amazonjs asin=”B01H4AI6DQ” locale=”US” title=”Plastic Precision Oiler / Oil Dispenser Bottle with 25 Gauge Blunt Needle (3 Pieces)”]

The 18 gauge is good for general use when I want to apply oil in larger quantities:

[amazonjs asin=”B00EXPCC9A” locale=”US” title=”Gaunt Industries HYPO-490 – Oiler Boiler art bottle- Watercolor & Acrylic Paint Applicator – 1-1/4 Ounce Clear Oval Bottle with 18 Gauge Blunt Needle – Precision Paint Dispenser”]

I have give of the Titan precision oiler pens and all work great:

[amazonjs asin=”B002LYQALQ” locale=”US” title=”Titan Tools 15200 Precision Oiler”]

Now there are still times where I want to spray on thin oil.  While I have used a ton of CLP over the years I find myself using Rem Oil quite a bit.

[amazonjs asin=”B0000C51AD” locale=”US” title=”Interstate Arms Corp Remington Rem Oil aerosol (10-Ounce)”]


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Zastava PAP M70 and Military M70 Buttstocks and Recoil Pads No Longer Match

Hello everyone,

We make a recoil pad for the military Yugo M70, M72 and M76 rifles [click here for the listing]. The original was rubber over a steel pad and was often very beat up when guys bought kits or rifles made from kits.  So, I hunted down pristine original recoil pads and made molds to cast rubber replacements.

Here are the approximate measures for the stock this pad fits on:

  • Screwhole centers are about 3.25″ apart
  • From top inside lip of butt of the stock to bottom inside lip is: 4.20″
  • Top to bottom of the butt outside or overall height is 4.48″
  • Left to right inside lip edge of the butt at the widest point s 1.29″
  • Outside edge left to right at the widest point is 1.63″
  • The lip that the recoil pad sits on all the way around is about 0.17″

Starting in mid-2017 we started getting word from our customers that our military-sized pads were not fitting the new commercial PAP M70 rifles being imported into the US.  It would appear that Zastava has changed the buttstock — presumably to cut cost.  It is smaller and the telltale for consumers is that it has a solid steel stamped butt plate.  The following photo is of an original Yugo M70 military-style recoil pad next to the new commercial PAP steel butt plate:

This next photo just shows an edge view – the white box is just propping them up:

Bottom line is that the stocks are different and our recoil pad will not fit the PAP M70.  I’m hoping to get the word out to reduce confusion.

Please note that at this time, I do not have plans to make a commercial PAP-sized recoil pad as there has not been sufficient demand thus far.


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Video: How to Lubricate Your AKM (AK47) and AK74 Rifles – AK Operators Union 47-74

  

In this video, Rob Ski, of AK Operators Union, does a great job explaining how to lubricate your AK.  Rob is the real deal having grown up around AKs and having also served in the US military.  Be sure to Like him on Facebook.  He’s always posting news and information.


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Video: Brownells’ Four Part Series on AK 47/74 Firearm Maintenance

  

Brownells has turned out a nice for video set regarding AK 47/74 Maintenance.  Here they are:

AK 47/74 Firearm Maintenance: Part 1 Disassembly

AK 47/74 Firearm Maintenance: Part 2 Cleaning

AK 47/74 Firearm Maintenance: Part 3 Lubrication

AK 47/74 Firearm Maintenance: Part 4 Reassembly

 


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How to Bullet Drop Test a Barrel?

Plenty of AK barrel have seen heavy use and some are pretty much sewer pipes at this point – blown out, dirty and most of the rifling a distant memory.  A quick way to check is to take a cartridge of the correct caliber, such as 7.62×39, and put it in the muzzle.  If it stops before the case hits, there is hope.  It the case hits or even goes into the muzzle, the barrel is pretty much history.

Pass:

 

Fail:

 

I’m not saying the barrel is perfect but it may still be useful.  I built both M70 stubs on their original barrels and they shot good enough – about 8-10″ – at 100 yards fired with iron sights with cheap ammo.  Still a fun rifle to shoot though.

If a barrel fails, I would definitely get a replacement and not even bother trying to use it but that’s just me.  I’ve known a few guys over the years that proudly built and fired sewer pipe rifles.

Good animation of an AK-47 operating

I’ve seen other animations in the past that didn’t get into as much detail as this one.  In this video you get a pretty good demo of how the various parts work during the firing and automated loading of the AK-47 but they got the trigger wrong, etc.  This one shows the disconnector and trigger hook operating in the right manner for example.  I’m posting it because I think it always helps to understand what is going on inside a firearm for when you want to tune it, figure out what might be going wrong, and so forth.

What is a Ferrule on Yugo and AK Rifles?

A ferrule is a metal end cap found on some wood grips and handguards to protect the end grain of the wood from being hammered and splitting open.  They were used on different country’s weapons and are usually not interchangeable between countries.  For example, Bulgarian and Yugo ferrules are different.

Near and dear to me are the metal ferrules on Yugoslav / Zastave wood lower handguards.  The following photo shows a M92 lower and the black metal cap is the ferrule.  This ferrule does not fit everything Yugo – just the M70, M85/92, and M77.  The M72 and M76 are unique sizes.

DSC_0312

You have three options when you need a ferrule:  1) Find a used one and this is real hard – try posting in the Marketplace of http://www.akfiles.com and see if they have one.  2) Buy a replica ferrule from us or 3) Simply pry the old ferrule off, put it on the new handguard and the squeeze the tabs shut again with a pair of pliers.

DSC_0320 DSC_0322 DSC_0323

Note if you are putting it on one of our plastic handguards either just set it on it with the ears closed or glue it in place.  Absolutely do not try to squeeze the ears shut — the little metal divots will not dig into our plastic and you risk snapping the handguard tabs.  Again, either slide it on or glue it in place with something like rubber glue or Goop that you can later remove if you want.  Epoxy works too but it is pretty permanent.

For example, I just slid the ferrule on the M70 bulged handguard in the next photo.

I hope this helps!

The following link is to the page on our web store with our various Yugoslav / Zasatav rifle and pistol furniture offerings:

http://shop.roninsgrips.com/Yugoslavian-Furniture_c18.htm

If you find this post useful, please either buy something using one of the links to eBay and Amazon.  With Amazon, if you click on one of our links and then buy something else – even unrelated stuff like clothes, electronics and groceries – we get credit and it would be hugely appreciated.  Doing something like the above will help us fund continued development of the blog.


Video: How to Field Strip an AK Rifle

To me, the AK family of rifles are some of the easiest designs on the planet to field strip … but I have done it hundreds of times.  For a newcomer, how to take the rifle apart can be daunting.  I took a few minutes and assembled some of my favorite videos and online resources / manuals to help clarify matters:

AK manuals that are online:

YouTube Videos:

Now Brownell’s did some videos on Youtube also but they split them into separate parts:

Part 1 – Disassembly:

Part 4 – Reassembly

 

We will have a future post about cleaning and maintenance so keep an eye out for it.